Thanks for the link. He brought up something about the start G code I didn't know about when printing PETG.
How about a 3D printer section?
- Thread starter goatman
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Alan B
100 GW
It sounds like that might be a possible cause for your experience. Hope it helps.
Jordan325ic
100 W
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Petg is just difficult to stick, but once you have a system worked out it won't be an issue. Here is what I do for rPetg on a glass bed.
1. Raise bed temp for first layer. I do +10c (75c).
2. Reduce Z offset (more like .07mm instead of .1mm).
3. Slow down first layer.
4. All else fails, a bit of glue stick around bits that like to pull off ( through holes, etc...)
1. Raise bed temp for first layer. I do +10c (75c).
2. Reduce Z offset (more like .07mm instead of .1mm).
3. Slow down first layer.
4. All else fails, a bit of glue stick around bits that like to pull off ( through holes, etc...)
If I use a lot of that purple glue stick I can get it to stick ok on my glass bed. I bought a tube of magigoo that I will be trying today. I've been setting the Z offset at one paper layer (~.07mm) for PLA but am using 3 pieces of paper in order to get a decent looking first layer test print. The bed temp I've set at 75*C.
I'm getting a ton of stringing but am starting to think that's just the nature of PETG and will just have to live with it as increasing both retraction length and speed didn't help at all. Lowering hotend temp helped a little but probably at the detriment of layer adhesion.
I'm liking the strength of the cf/PETG that I got from filaments.ca. They say to print it with a hotend temp from 200*-240*C. I've been having success with 210* but am going to try hotter temps for better layer adhesion.
I'd like to thank everybody for the advice. I'm slowly starting to get the hang of it. I'm starting to think that 3D printing is as much an art as it is a science.
I'm getting a ton of stringing but am starting to think that's just the nature of PETG and will just have to live with it as increasing both retraction length and speed didn't help at all. Lowering hotend temp helped a little but probably at the detriment of layer adhesion.
I'm liking the strength of the cf/PETG that I got from filaments.ca. They say to print it with a hotend temp from 200*-240*C. I've been having success with 210* but am going to try hotter temps for better layer adhesion.
I'd like to thank everybody for the advice. I'm slowly starting to get the hang of it. I'm starting to think that 3D printing is as much an art as it is a science.
Alan B
100 GW
With a PEI printbed PETG and TPU stick too well.
I was never satisfied with the evenness of glue stick coatings. Misting unscented aquanet is much easier, faster and more even. It only takes a very thin coating, not even complete coverage. Just a misting. At $2 a can (Walmart) it lasts a very long time. I've only used 2 oz of the 11 oz contents in more than a year. Saves me a lot of isopropyl as well. I don't spray every print cycle with PLA, with PETG or TPU need to spray a bit more often. It also helps to let the printbed cool before removing prints.
One more thing - I never touch the print surface with fingers (except when washing it). Only clean tools. Touching the print surface with finger oils causes a lot of adhesion problems and there's no reason to. After a few print cycles re-mist. After a few spray cycles wash off the printbed with water and a drop of detergent, rinse well, let it dry, and re-mist. This is smooth PEI on spring steel. I no longer need to sand the PEI or use the occasional acetone on it. I've been using the same PEI for several years and many hundreds of prints.
I was never satisfied with the evenness of glue stick coatings. Misting unscented aquanet is much easier, faster and more even. It only takes a very thin coating, not even complete coverage. Just a misting. At $2 a can (Walmart) it lasts a very long time. I've only used 2 oz of the 11 oz contents in more than a year. Saves me a lot of isopropyl as well. I don't spray every print cycle with PLA, with PETG or TPU need to spray a bit more often. It also helps to let the printbed cool before removing prints.
One more thing - I never touch the print surface with fingers (except when washing it). Only clean tools. Touching the print surface with finger oils causes a lot of adhesion problems and there's no reason to. After a few print cycles re-mist. After a few spray cycles wash off the printbed with water and a drop of detergent, rinse well, let it dry, and re-mist. This is smooth PEI on spring steel. I no longer need to sand the PEI or use the occasional acetone on it. I've been using the same PEI for several years and many hundreds of prints.
goatman
10 MW
carbon fiber pla from filaments.ca
at 235C to 240C it was rough and loose fibers on the print
some filaments are cf powder and some are carbon fibers but it wasnt stated on the website
prints good at 230C
took a picture of some fluff
at 235C to 240C it was rough and loose fibers on the print
some filaments are cf powder and some are carbon fibers but it wasnt stated on the website
prints good at 230C
took a picture of some fluff
I'm not positive, but I think all the filaments with cf in them print with a rough texture.
Curious why you chose cf/PLA. I thought cf was to add rigidity, PLA is brittle to start with. PETG and Nylon are a bit 'bendy' without the cf.
Curious why you chose cf/PLA. I thought cf was to add rigidity, PLA is brittle to start with. PETG and Nylon are a bit 'bendy' without the cf.
goatman
10 MW
heat resistance
i assume strength will be added getting rid of brittleness
i wanted stiff, rigid, strong and heat resistant and uv resistant, easily printed
https://filaments.ca/collections/3d-filaments/products/ecotough-pla-2-0-heat-resistant-carbon-fiber-1-75mm
this roll comes at 0.8kg, this print is 761 grams
while reading its specs it also says it weighs less than pla, i dont know if that means i get more in meters. i think this print needs 270 meters
find out in 2 days if i have enough when the print is finishing.
like to find a sealer for it, havent looked yet
i looked at strength testing on yt and 100% infill seems stronger than 50% infill patterns
i added outside walls, angles and holes for strength but had to go to 80% infill to cut weight.
heard we're getting blasted from the sun and my lights are flickering quite a bit, hopefully the power stays on but should see the northern lights tonight
i assume strength will be added getting rid of brittleness
i wanted stiff, rigid, strong and heat resistant and uv resistant, easily printed
https://filaments.ca/collections/3d-filaments/products/ecotough-pla-2-0-heat-resistant-carbon-fiber-1-75mm
this roll comes at 0.8kg, this print is 761 grams
while reading its specs it also says it weighs less than pla, i dont know if that means i get more in meters. i think this print needs 270 meters
find out in 2 days if i have enough when the print is finishing.
like to find a sealer for it, havent looked yet
i looked at strength testing on yt and 100% infill seems stronger than 50% infill patterns
i added outside walls, angles and holes for strength but had to go to 80% infill to cut weight.
heard we're getting blasted from the sun and my lights are flickering quite a bit, hopefully the power stays on but should see the northern lights tonight
That's an interesting filament, I think I'll try some myself.
goatman
10 MW
it has a shine to it when hit with light
Nice job with the CAD. I couldn't do that.
You are a quick learner.
You are a quick learner.
goatman
10 MW
frign nozzled jammed 30hrs into it.
little annoyed but once off the plate
this filament is a beast
feels like slab of aluminum
i have another roll but im going to order a 0.6mm hardened steel nozzle and try again
no comparison to the sunlu pla cf
little annoyed but once off the plate
this filament is a beast
feels like slab of aluminum
i have another roll but im going to order a 0.6mm hardened steel nozzle and try again
no comparison to the sunlu pla cf
How about some 3D printing porn;
goatman
10 MW
:lol: :lol: :lol:
markz
100 TW
Looks like Red Velvet cake with a million grams of carbs to spike your insulin glucose for many hours.
nicobie said:
It looks like when I'm indoors this winter, I will have some time to finally unbox my 3D printer.
What drawing programs are you all using? And/or recommend?
What drawing programs are you all using? And/or recommend?
So far Tinkercad has been all I have needed (if I can't find a .stl on thingiverse or thangs that does what I want). However I can see myself having to get comfortable with Fusion 360 if something complicated comes up in the future.
Which printer did you end up getting?
Which printer did you end up getting?
Chalo
100 TW
goatman said:
I think you mean a stack of thin sheets of some janky variety of aluminum, stuck together with tape.
goatman
10 MW
im surprised youre still not riding a pack mule for transportation
goatman
10 MW
spinningmagnets said:
im using freecad, its good for quick little items but for bigger designs if a mistake is made you cant just go back and fix it without something breaking. its fixable but its easier to just delete and start over, ive probably deleted 40hrs of design
this video explains it, read the comments
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QSsVFu929jo
going to try the realthunder branch of freecad, supposed to fix that problem
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p_ZEry2wTfg
Jordan325ic
100 W
- Joined
- Aug 5, 2020
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- 121
Fusion 360 is a good balance between capability and usability. Serious engineering outfits use solidworks, but many small companies do use it and I believe it's free for hobbyists.
pickworthi
100 W
Jordan325ic said:
https://www.autodesk.co.uk/products/fusion-360/pricing
It may just be in the UK, but I don't see the "free for hobbyists" pricing.
Which is why I went for FreeCAD. Open Source, works well on Linux. Pretty capable. Work around the drawbacks, or submit fixes - joy of open source.
Jordan325ic
100 W
- Joined
- Aug 5, 2020
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https://www.autodesk.co.uk/products/fusion-360/personalpickworthi said:
https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/personal
It's free.
pickworthi
100 W
Jordan325ic said:
Fascinating. I looked at every option for clicking on links on this site, and none of them ended up at this page.
I eventually found it through searching for "personal use", and following two linked knowledge articles.
But based on what is available through the normal site interface, they want you to pay, and do not present any hint that you may qualify for a free license. Not open and honest behaviour, in my view.
It was a gift two years ago, and I actually don't remember which model.
Sometimes I feel like I have three jobs. When I retire, maybe I can squeeze some fun projects in between the two remaining jobs...
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