Completely destroyed

S

Superwooper10

10 mW
Joined
Jan 18, 2022
Messages
32
Location
Georgia
So I know i'm new and all here, but I was scrambling around for hours trying to wonder why my wheel isn't listening to my bike anymore. I just took it to the bike shop to get it fixed because of a bent rim after getting out of a bad car wreck, and once it got back from the bike shop, the wheel refuses to move and just tries to take off, giving a violent thrust taking off one after another. When it gets up to speed, it sounds semi normal, but it's horribly making a noise as it tries to take off. When I let the throttle go, it sounds normal winding back down. Yet the 3rd error "Motor Hall Sensor Abnormality" is the reason it's giving the nogo. I did take the motor apart when I got that error and stayed up all night trying to fix it, but gave up. And just to recap, when I had it sitting at my house, I lifted up the front wheel and it spun up just fine on the bent rim. It even hit the top speed and gave no issue. But whatever this new rim is doing, this motor does not seem to like it and just won't play nice with it anymore. Please, is there anyone that can help wme with this issue? Do I HAVE to order new sensors with this new rim, or is there a way to recalibrate it or really try to fix it at home without spending more money on it? Do I need to replug with wires in a different way? (Yellow to green, blue to yellow, green to blue, etc..)The ebike display i'm using is a KT-LCD 3 screen and a 1000w motor.
 
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Check your plugs and wires for damage, corrosion, less than full insertion, etc.
 
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Chalo said:
Check your plugs and wires for damage, corrosion, less than full insertion, etc.
Click to expand...

I checked every plug and I even replaced them 3 days before the wreck. Some wires are bad, but I went ahead and reconnected all the wires, and did a voltmeter test. Black to black, then red to yellow, green, and blue. Some was functioning normal, and I think the blue was sometimes sitting at 4 volts but never went back down sometimes. It did, but sometimes it sat there. I blame the new rim because it spun fine before it was replaced. I feel like this new rim isn't grounding everything properly.
 
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E-HP said:
Superwooper10 said:
I feel like this new rim isn't grounding everything properly.
Click to expand...

There's no reason to suspect the rim. It's likely a connection problem as Chalo mentioned.
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Well, if you say so, but I did a voltmeter test on the motor's 5 wires and when I connected it, powered it up, everything seemed to have functioned fine when moving the wheel. Maybe later tonight if I have the motivation after being disappointed it didn't wanna move i'll check the thicker 3 phase wires. I guess I forgot about those.
 
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Alright, i'm going to be fixing on this crazy thing like it's a tractor for the third time. What am I supposed to check now if it's showing the motor hall sensor abnormality error? I've already checked the motor sensor(5 wires)plug? Just check the phase wires?
 
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Superwooper10 said:
Alright, i'm going to be fixing on this crazy thing like it's a tractor for the third time. What am I supposed to check now if it's showing the motor hall sensor abnormality error? I've already checked the motor sensor(5 wires)plug? Just check the phase wires?
Click to expand...

Yes, check the phrase wires for being skinned and grounding to the axle, and check the plug terminals for signs of arcing.
 
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Alright. Guess i'll have to take it apart and check it out again. I guess what the bike shop did was the wire was just laying there and pretty much wasn't always with it. I guess it was scraping against the axle. Time to drown another all nighter into it. Thanks for your help! I did see multiple wires stripped, but they never bothered me. I guess their constant moving it around must've finished it off.
 
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Yup. Functioned perfectly fine on the bent rim. I even picked it up and spun it all full speed. It was pretty hardy after it and I was surpsied too. I have both sides of the hub apart and looking at it, I don't really see anything sticking out of the ordinary. Chances are the bike shop must'v flailed the wire all over the place and screwed something up.
 
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Yeah, i'm afriad I give up. I cut all 3 phase wires and the yellow one was perfectly healthy inside the axle. The only damage I saw was just where it curved up and out of the sharp corner of the axle. The other two might be the same. I'm stuck. I guess it's done since it's hard to really connect wires back and slip them through the ole since it's a hard fit to slide wires back through and I don't know any stores around the USA that can actually fix this problem, let alone my bike shop making it worse. All they did was transfer it to a new rim. I might just transfer my convo over to another topic and see who can at least fix a stator if I mail it to them now..
 
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To be honest, i'm not very happy. I could strap some thinner gauge wire through the axle to try to pull some string through and get some semi smaller gauged wiring, but at this point if I do fix it, it'll just be the same all over again. 12,000 miles for this motor and it's over like this.
 
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Superwooper10 said:
To be honest, i'm not very happy. I could strap some thinner gauge wire through the axle to try to pull some string through and get some semi smaller gauged wiring, but at this point if I do fix it, it'll just be the same all over again. 12,000 miles for this motor and it's over like this.
Click to expand...

Teflon/PTFE jacketed wire has a smaller outer diameter per wire gauge, and is slipperier and more abrasion resistant than PVC or silicone jacketed wire.

If you want to give up, well that's your prerogative. But you can repair and upgrade your motor if you're so inclined.
 
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I gave up bothering anymore. My soul for ebiking is just destroyed. After coming from a wreck 3 months later and hoping to happily get back on the road only to have a bike shop frock up the wheel from messing something up during the fix just to waste 130$, i'm just fed up. I doubt theres even a shop anywhere in the usa that even fixes just stators. I'll throw it in the trash tomorrow unless I get any callouts to get it fixed. i'm flat broke.
 

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Superwooper10 said:
I gave up bothering anymore. My soul for ebiking is just destroyed. After coming from a wreck 3 months later and hoping to happily get back on the road only to have a bike shop frock up the wheel from messing something up during the fix just to waste 130$, i'm just fed up. I doubt theres even a shop anywhere in the usa that even fixes just stators. I'll throw it in the trash tomorrow unless I get any callouts to get it fixed. i'm flat broke.
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That's too bad. I does take a moderate amount of patience to methodically go through the steps to diagnose and resolve a problem, but most folks eventually get there. But ya, I do agree it will be harder to find someone to fix the motor now that you've torn into it the way you did. I didn't see anything that indicates there's something wrong with the stator, or anything a bike shop could do to damage it. To me it looks repairable, but on the other hand, you got a lot of use out of it. :thumb:
 
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Since I ended up screwing up my old stator motor, and a friend told me of buying just the cable, can't I just take a 1200w cable that has 9 pins and just rethread that through the axle and solder it in the existing spots the old one used to be at and just do that? I'll have to ignore the white wire. I only have a 8 pin connector.
 
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Sigh..yeah. A friend told me I can just buy a cable for it. Can't I just buy a 1200w motor and just thread that through the axle and just use that instead? The motor is originally a 1000w motor, but i've seen the wattage take 1800, but I limit it to 1200.
 
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Superwooper10 said:
Sigh..yeah. A friend told me I can just buy a cable for it. Can't I just buy a 1200w motor and just thread that through the axle and just use that instead? The motor is originally a 1000w motor, but i've seen the wattage take 1800, but I limit it to 1200.
Click to expand...

Ya, that will at least get you back to where you started, and if there was an intermittent break in one of your phase wires that caused the issue, it may resolve it too, who knows.
 
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Previous throttle was exact same and I rewired to allow the switch to access reverse feature on my Kelly controller.

However, when I took the cover off this time the throttle was on the handlebar and the hall sensor came away and I have no idea how to fix this? Anyone with any pointers?

I’ve a spare throttle on-route as this was my spare.

Previous throttle I kept the key in the switch and my knee cracked open the case as my knee hit the key. Live & learn.

Thanks in advance.

376E98FC-EE34-4EC7-B940-33448DD5EDB4.jpeg
 
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Yeahhh I was gonna make a topic on this as well, and I don't know why my motor's being funky. Even when my motor's not connected to my controller, when I set my throttling to 1 for the and twist the throttle, it seems to give the hall sensor error as well. Is the throttle just bad?
 
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Yeah sure Tommycat, you have permission. Just remember a credit now and again does help,

I have somewhere photos of the original throttle after I rewired the thing. Dam useful to access reverse & keep the voltage display functional.

After this experience I’ve lost all competence in these throttles. Did appear they hot glued the hall sensor prongs onto the case lid and used so little glue therefore guaranteed to fail from falling off its position, I was genuine shocked for a moment the though being stranded was real.

I had already ordered a non electronic throttle. Least where the electrical side is a separate box and is out of the rain.

D0864B69-A770-4D23-A358-5CF1346F38D4.jpeg
 
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