Electric standup jetski build

A few remarks/suggestions from the screenshots provided:

-Cell High protect is ok at 4.2V, but cell high recover is a bit low, meaning if after charge the battery stabilizes at a voltage higher than this then the BMS will remain shut off, not allowing you to ride. I suggest you put is a bit closer to 4.2V than it is right now.

-Pack voltage is ok at 84V, it's correctly set up. Though you'll probably never actually reach this voltage, the cell cutoff voltage will get there first. On my battery packs I prefer to have the total pack voltage reached before the maximum cell voltage in normal conditions, but I guess it's a matter of preference

-Cell low protect and recover should be set up according to the dischage curve of your cells. I don't have the data for your cells so I can't say if it's correct. Here also, there's really nothing to gain to set it too low, seaching for the last tiny percents of capacity will really decrease your battery life, so I usually suggest to cut off right after the voltage starts to decrease at the end of the curve (hopefully you'll get what I mean by looking at a discharge curve, if not already done :wink: )

-Cell diff protect is too high in my opinion. When your cells drift apart so much that it reaches one volt they are already long gone and it's very, very risky to keep using them, especially during the charge process. I'd set it up at 0.2 or 0.3V, which is already a lot. If at any point in your battery's life you see the difference between the best and the worst cell reaches this value then it's time to stop using the pack immediately and sent it to be repaired.

-Cell high warning should be lower than cell high cutoff. You want the BMS to beep and alert you before it reaches the cutoff value. But if the beeps annoy you then you can also leave it like this, up to you. I like for it to beep because it can tell if there is an issue while riding (in this case it would signal an issue with regen for example).

There are also some other very important parameters like current discharge, short circuit protection and stuff like that but I don't see them on the screenshots so I can't comment on those.

Hope this helps, :wink:
 
Dui said:
A few remarks/suggestions from the screenshots provided:

-Cell High protect is ok at 4.2V, but cell high recover is a bit low, meaning if after charge the battery stabilizes at a voltage higher than this then the BMS will remain shut off, not allowing you to ride. I suggest you put is a bit closer to 4.2V than it is right now.

-Pack voltage is ok at 84V, it's correctly set up. Though you'll probably never actually reach this voltage, the cell cutoff voltage will get there first. On my battery packs I prefer to have the total pack voltage reached before the maximum cell voltage in normal conditions, but I guess it's a matter of preference

-Cell low protect and recover should be set up according to the dischage curve of your cells. I don't have the data for your cells so I can't say if it's correct. Here also, there's really nothing to gain to set it too low, seaching for the last tiny percents of capacity will really decrease your battery life, so I usually suggest to cut off right after the voltage starts to decrease at the end of the curve (hopefully you'll get what I mean by looking at a discharge curve, if not already done :wink: )

-Cell diff protect is too high in my opinion. When your cells drift apart so much that it reaches one volt they are already long gone and it's very, very risky to keep using them, especially during the charge process. I'd set it up at 0.2 or 0.3V, which is already a lot. If at any point in your battery's life you see the difference between the best and the worst cell reaches this value then it's time to stop using the pack immediately and sent it to be repaired.

-Cell high warning should be lower than cell high cutoff. You want the BMS to beep and alert you before it reaches the cutoff value. But if the beeps annoy you then you can also leave it like this, up to you. I like for it to beep because it can tell if there is an issue while riding (in this case it would signal an issue with regen for example).

There are also some other very important parameters like current discharge, short circuit protection and stuff like that but I don't see them on the screenshots so I can't comment on those.

Hope this helps, :wink:


This helps a ton! You can fill the outside of a barn with what I dont know. So I appreciate all of the knowledge being shared with me and will go back through my settings and adjust. Thank you! :D
 
Been using the battery/bms now a few times but it is showing the battery dead after using only 6.8ah out of the 16ah and 66v out of the 84. Is that normal? Any suggestions on my settings? I took the screenshot when I got home from the lake and it now shows 12% but a few hours before that it was showing 2%. *I recharge it at 1amp and hit the auto balance option on the bms.

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Subscribed buddy! Now I need to get one going over the winter for sure.
 
Could you show us all the settings in the BMS app? The ones you showed don't have much to do with the battery state of charge or the current metering.
It is possible that the current sensor range is off, thus displaying wrong informations.
 
Much better! Went up in impeller pitch from 16 degree to 17 degrees and spent a couple hours hogging out and blueprinting the pump (cleaning up casting marks and sharping exit side of the pump veins) Kiddo was able to take off like a rocket without cavitation issues this time. *Also increased the max amps on the Votol 100 from 160 to 180.

Looking through the ANT bms system log I found out what is killing power early on the battery. CellLowRecovery: 2.80v(need to figure out which cell it is so I can replace it if needed. So for now I changed it to 2.60v. (cells are good to 2.5v) So hopefully give him a few more minutes of riding. Also interesting after almost 24hrs of sitting the battery was back up to 68v with an average of 3.4v per cell. Also still using less than 7ah before cutting off.

15 degree 16 degree 17 degree
impellers.jpg
 
Great result :thumb:
Maybe add another parallel string to the battery pack so the voltage sag is less and riding time increases?
 
Quinc said:
Parallel string? Like another row of batteries to increase AH or is that a wiring thing? :)

Yes.
I don't know how your battery pack is built but adding extra Ah will "stiffen" the pack leading to less voltage sag (keeping the cells at higher voltage and less stress) while being able to pull more amps.
 
SlowCo said:
Yes.
I don't know how your battery pack is built but adding extra Ah will "stiffen" the pack leading to less voltage sag (keeping the cells at higher voltage and less stress) while being able to pull more amps.

I dont think another row will fit also this thing already weighs 35lbs! Might have to spend more and build a battery with some better cells.


battery.jpg
 
Winter update! Picked up a 1990 Kawasaki 550sx. The main reason/difference being it uses a pump that is more suitable for lower rpm thrust. Vs the current ski/pump which wants high rpms.

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New battery build in the works! Another 10ah a bit lighter. bmax 12cell batteries from a hybrid.
Converting two 12s packs from jag35 into a 20s pack. Hacked this together on Saturday with what I had in the garage. Next step is to figure out the best fitment. If I want to run the 8S battery on top of the 12S or next too. Also thinking about shrink wrapping it to help keep any water splashes off it. Going to use a 400a ANT bms with it.
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Very nice project, that direct drive looks so good. Do you have details of the adapter you made? What are you using for the throttle, the motorbike throttle from QS motor as well?

Keep up the good work!
 
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