E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

1abv said:
Thats why I would like to try and find another solution not involving the CA at all so no shunt needed ideally.. I only use the CA for
speed trip odo volt current ah usage anyway. So if I can find a display that would do that w/o a shunt then im all good. Seeing as how onyx has a display w/o a shunt im wondering if that display would work.. but really ive been riding too much to move quickly with it. I extended part of the wiring harness to work. Still have to build the battery extension and breaker.

I don't think that's a bad idea. There's really no big need for a display that shows current. The Kelly already gives you the ability to set current, and speed limits. You can estimate your range from the voltage, and trip meter. If one wanted to you could still use the ca as a speedo, odo, trip, and volt meter, and it would only take 3 wires. Line power positive, negative, and a hall wire. No need for the throttle, or 2 shunt wires. That's all I have on my fatty, and it's never been an issue.
 
1abv, I've been thinking about how to install the controller without drilling any holes in the frame. This is what I plan to do. I'm going to use a 1/4" aluminum plate wide enough to mount the Kelly on, 3 3/4", and long enought to bolt to the stock controller bolt holes, 10 1/4". A 1/4" is thick enough to thread the holes, so no nut would be needed. That way if and when I ever get a Nucular controller, I can mount it to the same plate by just drilling some more holes in the plate.
 
That’s a good idea..
Maybe counter sink the holes (depending on where you mount the kelly) that you attach the plate to the bike so you have good thermal contact from the controller to the frame. I’ve been playing w where to mount the kelly because the oem wires are short. And if it’s mounted too high there is a lot of exposed wires unless I build some kind of skid plate or protection or drill a hole for the wires to go into higher up on the frame.
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I was doing some speed test w my bud on a talaria w a bac8000 I think he had it tuned to 6000ish. Stock battery,,
His bike tore mine a new asshole 0-20 then we did some roll-ons my bike beat his top end. maybe a few mph. I think he's running a 56t rear sprocket. (stock is 44) when his bike was stock it was a similar outcome. be interesting to gear a surron/talaria to have the same top end as my bike and see how the bottom end is... I'm guessing it will still beat my bike.. Anyone see the Armstrong BTW? its made in Canada don't ya know.
 
1abv said:
I was doing some speed test w my bud on a talaria w a bac8000 I think he had it tuned to 6000ish. Stock battery,,
His bike tore mine a new asshole 0-20 then we did some roll-ons my bike beat his top end. maybe a few mph. I think he's running a 56t rear sprocket. (stock is 44) when his bike was stock it was a similar outcome. be interesting to gear a surron/talaria to have the same top end as my bike and see how the bottom end is... I'm guessing it will still beat my bike.. Anyone see the Armstrong BTW? its made in Canada don't ya know.

The bac8000 has field weakening, which helps recover some of the top end lost from the bigger rear sprocket. Kelly controllers don'r have it, but Nucular controllers do.
 
1abv said:
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Field weakening give me wood…. Get it????? Wood?? In the pic! Just look!!

Luke aka Liveforphysics said "Field Weakening is like nitrous for EVs" . Truest a statement I have ever heard.
 
My QS 205 motor came today. I made these measurements so far.

Axle length 222mm
Axle width 16mm
Axle flats 10mm
Motor drop out width is 150mm
The spoke hole flange dia is 233mm vs 244mm for the 5403. I ordered spokes 6mm longer
39mm between the flanges, about 2mm wider than the 5403
Total weight 29 lbs 4 oz. I'm not sure about the 5403, but I'll be surprised if it's heavier.
The wire loom is 40" long.
The hall wires have a plug that's correctly wired for a Kelly controller plug.
 
Theodore Voltaire said:
My QS 205 motor came today. I made these measurements so far.

Axle length 222mm
Axle width 16mm
Axle flats 10mm
Motor drop out width is 150mm
The spoke hole flange dia is 233mm vs 244mm for the 5403. I ordered spokes 6mm longer
39mm between the flanges, about 2mm wider than the 5403
Total weight 29 lbs 4 oz. I'm not sure about the 5403, but I'll be surprised if it's heavier.
The wire loom is 40" long.
The hall wires have a plug that's correctly wired for a Kelly controller plug.
5403 is 3 pounds on my bathroom scale. I doubt you will be able to feel a difference in terms of handeling. That 205 will prove more oomph over the 5403 given same amps/volts input. Overall, you will be happier.
 
Rix said:
5403 is 3 pounds on my bathroom scale. I doubt you will be able to feel a difference in terms of handeling. That 205 will prove more oomph over the 5403 given same amps/volts input. Overall, you will be happier.

I'm sure you meant to say 30 lbs?

My bike was so far ahead of it's time it took 5 years, till 2018, for the competition to catch up, and even so, my bike is still the best platform for street riding to build on. At this point there's no way around it, this is going to take a while, but when I'm through it's going to be hard to beat.
 
I can't figure out how to use a spoke calculator so I used a slightly different method that involves a blindfold, hopping around 3 times on one leg, and chopping the head off a chicken, which gives you a total spoke legnth of 138mm. Stock legnth is 132m. QS is 11mm smaller dia. Half of 11mm is 5.5mm. Add 1/2mm for wider flange, and wala 132 + 6 = 138mm :)
 
Hey tv can you post pics of your motors connectors?

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1abv said:
Hey tv can you post pics of your motors connectors?

Sure, phase wires, and the hall connector, and the redundant hall connector. The hall plug is ready to connect directly to a Kelly controller with correct wiring, including a temp wire. I think it's nice QS includes an extra set of halls.

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I'm about ready to start installing my new motor, and eventually I'll start a dedicated thread showing how to install a QS 205 in a Stealth Bomber, but first I got to figure out how to do it. :roll: Until then my homie bros can enjoy a preview.

Unless you own, or have access to a machine shop, it's very difficult to equal a factory build, but my goal is always to come as close as possible.

One thing that seems stupid about the QS 205 is the part of the axle that normally would contact the swing arm is so close to the motor that it doesn't even clear the freewheel, so even if you had a 150mm dropout, you'd still need a spacer, or the freewheel would be touching the swing arm. 20220826_200019.jpg20220826_192201.jpg
 
First problem. I typical 20mm washer is the perfect size to fit the axle as a spacer, but the problem is the od is too big for the inside of the freewheel. I may be able to solve this problem with these 20mm BMW drain plug washers. They're made out of aluminum though, so I don't know it they're tough enough handle being tightened to 30 ft lbs. I'm going to start out with the asumption they'll work.

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I discovered these washers are too soft to work, but they'll at least work well enough for me to proceed with fitting the motor while I look for a better solution. Anybody got any ideas?
 
Have you tried McMaster or grainier? They give specs on all there bolts washers etc.
 
1abv said:
Have you tried McMaster or grainier? They give specs on all there bolts washers etc.

I typical 16mm washer is usually 30mm od, including McMaster, and Grainger. Finding anything smaller is proving difficult. I ordered some that may work that are said to be adapters for a circrcular saw. 16 x 22.2, and 16 x 25.4mm.
 
I bought a spacer at the hardware store that's 5/8", that almost fits the axle. 5/8 is 0.625", while 16mm is = to 0.63". When I first tried it, it was a little too tight to go on all the way, but after about 5 minutes with a round file it fits perfectly. Once I figure out how long it needs to be I'll try to find someone that can slice me off a piece the correct legnth. I could probably do it with a hacksaw, but I don't think the cut would be straight enough.
 
This is my first mock up. I added 2 of my alumnum washers, but when I checked, the motor is off center by about as much as these 2 washers, so It's looks like I may be able to bolt the left side directly against the swingarm. If that's the case I'll only need a spacer for the right side. This may turn out easier than I thought.

spacer check L.jpg
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That looks promising. Have you installed the brake rotor and see how it lines up w the caliper and if the caliper has clearance against the motor?

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Theodore Voltaire said:
I bought a spacer at the hardware store that's 5/8", that almost fits the axle. 5/8 is 0.625", while 16mm is = to 0.63". When I first tried it, it was a little too tight to go on all the way, but after about 5 minutes with a round file it fits perfectly. Once I figure out how long it needs to be I'll try to find someone that can slice me off a piece the correct legnth. I could probably do it with a hacksaw, but I don't think the cut would be straight enough.

You can use grover washers that you flatten out or take a nut and remove the threads from it. Or take regular washers, stack them on a bolt skrew a nut to have them all tight together, insert into a drill and then use sandpaper to sand the OD down.
 
Allex said:
You can use grover washers that you flatten out or take a nut and remove the threads from it. Or take regular washers, stack them on a bolt skrew a nut to have them all tight together, insert into a drill and then use sandpaper to sand the OD down.

Thank you Alex, you made me rethink it, and then I got a brain storm.
 
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