E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

1abv said:
Looking good man! Hey did you trim the phase wires or did they come that length?

The motor cable was almost 4 feet long, so it needed to be trimmed. I cut the phase wires down to stock length, but I made the hall cable longer than stock to get it up to a place that's easy to deal with. I think I'm going to run the hall cable from the controller through the frame so I can stick any extra cable length back into the frame and out of sight.

When I started working in air conditioning my mentor told me you can cut it shorter, but you can't cut it longer. :eek:
 
Hi TV,
What exactly are those connectors you used for the phase wires..... I need some like that!!!

Thanks,
Keith
 
Dunlop said:
Hi TV,
What exactly are those connectors you used for the phase wires..... I need some like that!!!

Thanks,
Keith

They're called XT150, supposedly good for 150 amps.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/125424931903
 
It only took me 3 trys, and about 3 youtube video refreashers to get this far. Almost no cussing. Make mental note, next time do all the inside spokes on both sides first, then the outside spokes last. I did remember not to cross the schrader valve hole like I did last time. Looks like I guessed pretty good on the spoke length. That chickens life was not in vein. Next I need to tighten all the spokes,and true the rim.

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I've never had success using this spoke torque wrench before, but after getting frustrated using that little round spoke wrench I decided to give it another try, and it seems to be helping a lot this time. I got my truing stand set up in the living room so I can watch TV while I work on my wheel, which helps a lot, because it's still pretty warm in the garage. I guess I'm going to have to call it a night though, because Donkey wants to go to bed.

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Theodore Voltaire said:
Dunlop said:
Hi TV,
What exactly are those connectors you used for the phase wires..... I need some like that!!!

Thanks,
Keith

They're called XT150, supposedly good for 150 amps.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/125424931903

They are the business. I use them as well.
 
Theodore Voltaire said:
It only took me 3 trys, and about 3 youtube video refreashers to get this far. Almost no cussing. Make mental note, next time do all the inside spokes on both sides first, then the outside spokes last. I did remember not to cross the schrader valve hole like I did last time. Looks like I guessed pretty good on the spoke length. That chickens life was not in vein. Next I need to tighten all the spokes,and true the rim.

So when I laced up this wheel for my Alpha build, I started off with a 2x, and then went spoke every 4 holes around the wheel. I found this to be the easiest way to lace a rim as the distance and centering of the rim was set from the get go and I didn't run into a situation where I couldn't either get a spoke to reach the nipple, or its was too long to center into the spoke hole due to the offset of the rim. I see your way worked as well. :bigthumb:
 

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I’m sure y’all know this already but make sure to check the spokes after the first few rides.. they will stretch a bit.
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A kill of crows?
 

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After getting the rim pretty close on the truing stand, I like to fine tune it on the bike. I guess it's about as close as it's going to get now. I'm waiting on a new rim strip, and then I'll mount a tire, and call it good. Then I guess it's time to remove the controller.

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by 1abv » Sep 13 2022 8:50pm

Theodore Voltaire wrote: ↑
Sep 13 2022 4:16pm

Dunlop wrote: ↑
Sep 13 2022 3:07pm
Hi TV,
What exactly are those connectors you used for the phase wires..... I need some like that!!!

Thanks,
Keith

They're called XT150, supposedly good for 150 amps.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/125424931903

They are the business. I use them as well.
Top

Thank you both for the reply.... Since I am using a smaller Leafmotor (1500w) I assume they will take the occasional 250W, 20 second burst??

Thanks,
Keith
 
Dunlop said:
.... Since I am using a smaller Leafmotor (1500w) I assume they will take the occasional 250W, 20 second burst??
Myself and others pushed our Leaf motors up to 8Kw peak in the past. They can take it, just deal with the heat somehow and your fine. :D

I recommend upgrading phase wires, adding Ferro fluid and hubsinks at a minimum.

Cheers
 
Sooo I’ve been playing w the controller from time to time between riding. Kelly is stingy w the leads off their controller. I would up removing the bolt down contacts they had for xt150s. If you want the phase wires to be in the stock location ya gottta make a jumper because the kelly phase wires are not long enough. I’m also using 8 gauge wires from my motor to the controller. Gotta get that shunt soon. I was playing w where to mount the circuit breaker and there is not a lot of space in front of the battery. W a shunt and breaker it will work but it starts to get a little crowded. E72C8511-E443-4CAD-BBE2-EC7898561982.jpeg
 

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I've been thinking about how to extend the phase wires 1abv. I'm leaning toward just soldering extra wire on, but having an extra xt150 doesn't seem too bad.

Now that I have one, I go back and forth on the shunt. It kind of seems like it's not worth the trouble of stuffing it in there, for little benefit. The Kelly already allows you to set all the power perimeters, so we don't need the ca to be able to do that. I feel like I can get by with just a voltmeter, and speedometer/odo. I wasn't planning to have a throttle overide either.
 
Tv you mentioned that your hall sensor wires were all ready set up for a kelly. Can you take a cu pic of the wires going in to your connector? Love to see the colors and location of where the wires go into the plug
 
The picture didn't come out too good.
This is a diagram of the kelly hall plug. For some reason Kelly calls orange, raddle

Kelly plug left to right

Black ground, Orange temp wire, purple + 5v
Yellow, Green, Blue


the wires on the motor side are a little different

Black ground, Clear temp wire, Red + 5v
Blue, Green, Yellow

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by Cowardlyduck » Sep 17 2022 8:40pm

Dunlop wrote: ↑
Sep 17 2022 6:01pm
.... Since I am using a smaller Leafmotor (1500w) I assume they will take the occasional 250W, 20 second burst??

Myself and others pushed our Leaf motors up to 8Kw peak in the past. They can take it, just deal with the heat somehow and your fine. :D

I recommend upgrading phase wires, adding Ferro fluid and hubsinks at a minimum.

Hi Cowardlyduck, I am planning on Ferro fluid and hub sinks for sure :thumb: .... Not sure if you've looked at the Leafmotor specs lately....
https://www.leafbike.com/products/e...electric-bike-motor-998.html?VariantsId=10683

This part: -- Update “3mm phase wires” & "Newest version hub" makes me feel as though they have already increased the size of the phase wires??? But then again, I am New, so maybe they have been advertising it that way for years??? I think they may already have the axle stuffed full!!!! I was just planning to run the next size larger wires coming down to the axle??

I am planning to split open the motor (which just arrived today) to add the fluid and possibly change out the thermister... The big decision I think is to get a thermister that works for the KLS7230S controller, or for the CA V3!!!! I just don't know which one I really want to be running the show!! They both seem to have about the settings and functions :confused:
Keith
 
Dunlop said:
Hi Cowardlyduck, I am planning on Ferro fluid and hub sinks for sure :thumb: .... Not sure if you've looked at the Leafmotor specs lately....
https://www.leafbike.com/products/e...electric-bike-motor-998.html?VariantsId=10683

This part: -- Update “3mm phase wires” & "Newest version hub" makes me feel as though they have already increased the size of the phase wires??? But then again, I am New, so maybe they have been advertising it that way for years??? I think they may already have the axle stuffed full!!!! I was just planning to run the next size larger wires coming down to the axle??

I am planning to split open the motor (which just arrived today) to add the fluid and possibly change out the thermister... The big decision I think is to get a thermister that works for the KLS7230S controller, or for the CA V3!!!! I just don't know which one I really want to be running the show!! They both seem to have about the settings and functions :confused:
Keith
I'm pretty sure they were saying the same thing back in 2016 when I got mine. 3mm2 is around 13awg. Good for around 4-5KW peaks IMO.

I upgraded mine to 10Awg fine stranded silicone. To get it to fit I changed the halls and temp sensor wires to super thin 36awg teflon wires, drilled the axle hole slightly bigger, and replaced the thick silicone insulation on the 10AWG with heatshrink. To get it through the hole requires heatshrink around all of it, a bunch of lube and patience. I also increased the phase wires to 8awg just outside the axle which helps pull excess heat away.

I should also add, in my case I was running 12 internal cooling fans with vents on the side covers, custom heat sinks and FF so not quite the same as FF + hub sinks sealed.

Anyway, all that is a lot of work and not really worth it unless your chasing every last drop of performance. Easiest, most reasonable option is as you say, FF + hubsinks + upgraded phase wires from just outside the axle.

Cheers
 
1abv said:
I’m sure y’all know this already but make sure to check the spokes after the first few rides.. they will stretch a bit.
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Those are the stickiest tires I've ever seen, holding a bike onto an upside-down hill like that. ;)
 
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