Yes, if you add another 12 @ 12AH SLA (36 volts), it will increase the range to 18 miles and the top speed to 30 MPH on level ground, no wind, etc. Real speeds given real world conditions you hit about 28 MPH tops.xyster wrote: Not pleased with the range. I only got 8 miles on the level, no wind and no pedal, WOT @ ~15mph, and with 12 stop/starts. I've read somewhere here a similar Currie getting 11 or 12 miles (wasn't that your review, knightmb?). Anyway, I hope the disappointing range is a function of new SLA's, and not sulfated SLA's. I'd planned to parallel two 10ah SLAs from my scooter anyways, so because of the poor range I went ahead and did that today. As seen in the last pic, two 10ah SLAs just barely fit end-to-end upright in the triangle -- I had to sand one edge of the top battery.
That's exactly how I use mine, trips to the store, etc. The wife rides it from time to time for fun. On the air cooling, ours is still stock motor, no mods on it so far. The 36 volts does warm it up, especially with some of the hills around here. I put a temperature sensory on it during some testing, the motor gets hot, too hot for me to tough, but according to the sensor it's never really over 130 F that often. Which is hot enough to burn human skin, but hasn't been hot enough to melt the inside. I pull the motor apart every now and then to see if the inside has bitten the dust, but so far it has surprised me by "living" this long. I was going to go hub motor once this motor died, but it keeps living for some reason, Believe me when I say I'm not nice to it, I go full power around everywhere.Later, I'll probably replace the SLA's with something better, maybe do the overvolt/forced-air cooling routine. But I've already got one hot rod, and I don't want to overdo the mods since this is supposed to be my "won't freak if it gets stolen" bike that I can leave locked but unattended in public places. It's also supposed to be the girlfriend's ride for when we're out together -- for some silly reason my other ebike scares her. My mod options are pretty limited anyway since she's banned me from putting duct tape anywhere on this new bike (note the duct tape only on the scooter's batteries now on the ebike ) .
I can answer that onefechter wrote:
Does the bike hub have freewheels on both sides?
Turbo Shoo's Flies Away wrote:It's great to have you back. (yay!)
Your timely arrival has in all likelyhood kept me from heading out the door.
Like a streak of light, he arrives just in time! (Spiderman,Spiderman...)
I too hate the fact having a very nice ebike that I can't leave anywhere which is why I'm leaning towards getting an I-Zip.
I don't see how range will increase since with this under-powered puppy, we'll be using that extra power most of the time. After I put the fourth SLA in my Currie Stealth, practical range stayed about the same -- I could go WOT 10 miles at 24mph instead of WOT 10 miles at 18mph. Now if this bike started with better power, opening up the throttle would be more of an occasional thing like it is for my other ebike.Knight Rider wrote: Yes, if you add another 12 @ 12AH SLA (36 volts), it will increase the range to 18 miles and the top speed to 30 MPH on level ground, no wind, etc. Real speeds given real world conditions you hit about 28 MPH tops.
That's very good to know. I seem to remember Reid writing that at 36 volts his same motor died after only 7 miles at top speed. Which is why he went FAC on the next. Perhaps the motor would run much cooler with simply a little passive ventilation. I'm thinking two PVC elbow joints, one pointed forward for wind in-flow, one pointed backward for outflow might provide sufficient temperature headroom while also blowing out the brush dust. Have you opened the motor yet? I'm wondering if it's one of those motors with tricky-to-reseat brushes.On the air cooling, ours is still stock motor, no mods on it so far. The 36 volts does warm it up, especially with some of the hills around here. I put a temperature sensory on it during some testing, the motor gets hot, too hot for me to tough, but according to the sensor it's never really over 130 F that often. Which is hot enough to burn human skin, but hasn't been hot enough to melt the inside.
RCMP? Is Canada poised to stage a socialist takeover of the United States or something ?His Fechellency wrote:We were about to call the RCMP to go looking for you. Hope you had a good vacation. Now you have to read 400 posts to catch up.
Does the bike hub have freewheels on both sides?
Do you know if the motor has rare earth magnets?
I forgot to answer this part, that rattling from the rear is the kickstand I found out when my wife riding it and noticed the same sound when she hit any major bumps.xyster wrote: The maiden voyage around the neighborhood was great, except for a rattling/grinding sound from the rear, but only on hard left turns (any ideas? I'm hoping it's not something in the already over-amped 250W motor's gearbox).
Worry not my young apprentice, my rep shall remain intact, for with typical dedication I've been busy crapping up the bike with extra battery boxes, gadgets, duct tape and such. I'll post another pic after it's fully ugly-ified.Beagle123 wrote:Hey, you're not supposed to be riding anything that looks that cool. I thought you only rode things that look like a hefty bag.
Duct tape is the poor man's metallurgy.fechter wrote:I see the silver duct tape matches the frame
Hoping it'd be good enough, I kept the holes small so that rain and splash wouldn't have easy ingress.fechter wrote:Bigger holes would help the cooling, so would a blower. If it's not overheating, then you don't need to worry about it.
xyster wrote:Duct tape is the poor man's metallurgy.fechter wrote:I see the silver duct tape matches the frame
And quite a problem it was. Before the tape, I used to be ogled by hot chicks a dozen times a ride. Now, I can pedal without feeling like I'm in some female breeding-stock surveillance program. Though worth it, one woman is plenty hard enough to deal with. The equation tips the other way with more than one (unless they're twins or genetic clones -- that's ok.)Whew, xter. I'm glad to see that you solved the "cool" problem on that bike. You did a great job uglifying your bike. Your girlfriend can rest easy knowing that you're not out picking up on women.
I'll have to perform some fancy calculus to find the area of tape necessary, multiplying tape area X tape density to derive Total Tape Weight. For best handling, I prefer a TTW of less than 10lbs -- but that's just me. Others may prefer a higher or lower TTW.If you'll allow me to make a suggestion, I'd suggest covering the remaining areas that aren't covered in duct tape with more duct tape. You could make it look like something you'd see on the show "lost in space."
From the looks of that moped, I surmise you've solved your chick-ring surveillance problem too. I take bikes and crap them up. You take crappy bikes and keep them crappy. What a stroke of genius, my friend! The real lazy-man's method to anonymity via obscurity.Personally, I've taken a different approach: My bike LOOKS cool, but it will only go about 15mph right now. Last time I rode by a Burger King, a bunch of kids were laughing at me.
Tell me about it! On those preference-selection documents we all sign before birth, I checked: Male; circa year 2,571; Planet Earth. Some jerk in the Incipient Consciousness Office really screwed up by sending me to 1971. I hear it's worse though when the angel bureaucrats upstairs mis-assign gender or destination -- so I'm counting my blessings and just dealing with it. Next time though, I expect better service. Perhaps before I die I should prepare a bribe to be bundled with me in my casket. Sounds like many others on this planet also got the cosmic shaft.Sometimes it's hard to be ahead of your time.
Thanks for the tip. My girlfriend's partial to green. Seen any green duct tape?P.S. They also sell this tape called "Gorilla Tape" which is similar to duct tape, and waterproof, strong etc. However, it is black. If you ever feel the need to build black into your color scheme, you might consider it. It holds my batteries together.
All I want out of life is to be anonomous.xyster wrote: From the looks of that moped, I surmise you've solved your chick-ring surveillance problem too. I take bikes and crap them up. You take crappy bikes and keep them crappy. What a stroke of genius, my friend! The real lazy-man's method to anonymity via obscurity.
Nice to meet you too. I don't know if you did the wrong thing...let's talk about it.kisshu wrote:wow i'm glad to meet you ... i just returned one to the store. did i do the wrong thing?
Motor ratings are very open to interpretation. Basically the rating should be the maximal amount of input power that the motor can handle continuously without being damaged. This motor is rated by its manufacturer for 250w (I forget the website, we've discussed it another thread here). Currie is already feeding it about 840 watts max (24 volts X 35 amps -- the controller is a 35 amp controller). So I don't know where Currie gets their 450 watt rating. Anyway, without extra cooling, the motor will handle 1,260 watts (36 volts through the stock 35 amp controller) for short bursts of a couple miles. Another member ruined his same currie motor running it at 36 volts 35 amps -- he reported the motor died after 7 miles going 26 mph.kisshu wrote:you mention the motor being 250 watts i thought it was a 450 watt motor?
Correct me if I'm wrong, I think the BMC is a brushless motor, and so would require a new controller. I have a high-power brushless ebike already. This is supposed to be my cheapo that I can leave in public places and still be able to replace if it gets stolen. Brushed hubmotors are cheap too, or I could bolt-on something like that $169 1000 watt motor we were just discussing...kisshu wrote:also if the motor dies why not switch to a 600 bmc watt or higher instead of a hub motor?
The bike really perks up with an extra 8-12 volts. The simply way to get 15 miles sometimes going 20-25 mph would be to wire in series a third 12v 12ah SLA battery (just like the two it comes with). Check the motor and don't let it get so hot you can't hold your hand on it. If you don't want to worry so much about the little motor burning up, do the "forced air cooling" modification that's detailed elsewhere here. You'd also need a second charger (a 12 volt SLA charger) to charge the third battery, or a 36 volt SLA charger, rewiring the charging system to charge all three at once.kisshu wrote:now the important stuff.... modifications
i live on a long hill about 1 mile with various grades 10 to 25 maybe and want to be able to travel to the next town over and back about 7 miles each way the trip from the botom has a lot flat road and some 1 to 5 degree grades.
i too found i could only go a short distance before the batteries indicated red etc. right now i would only be able to go to the store at the botom of the hill - about two miles and back with pedaling before it runs low - and the power is not great for climing the hill i live on.
is it a good bike for modification so i could make the 15 mile round trip and beable to do 20 - 25 some times? its way to slow and powerless
If you've got metal fabrication skills and equipment, or have a friend who does, sure...you could do almost anything you wanted.kisshu wrote:also, ive been looking into other setups like a crank drive set up to take advantage of gearing
why not put the motor where the controller sits and run it off the crank with free wheel?
Seems to me if you wanted to go with the cyclone, you might as well put it on a regular bicycle. What would be the advantage to tearing this Currie down in order to make it a Cyclone system?kisshu wrote:i noticed everything it welded - the controller and kick stand - how feesable is this for modification like using a cyclone system
or other type crank driven system? given the kickstand would have to be removed with a torch etc.
I'd get a different frame. Jondoh here has a nice review of a cyclone system:kisshu wrote:or can i get away with converting it to a higher voltage with same motor or using a higher watt motor? i really would like to use the gearing though
is it worth the bike frame or is it better to find a lighter used frame?
Glad I could help. I think this is a terrific bike for the money, and after a couple battery additions, (total cost bike + mods about $400), achieves a very respectable 20-25mph for 20-25 miles. Motor temp must be monitored regularly, especially after riding up hills or at speeds more than 20mph for more than a few miles, else a cooling blower mod is in order (another $20 or so).kisshu wrote:its really unusable without modification and you have given me some hope
i really appreciate your expertise and advice
let me know what you recommend
also i weigh about 180 lbs
thanks alot xyster !!!!