Turnigy HXT Powered Custom Cruiser Worklog

Hey Kim,
I forgot to tell you, until I read these recent posts.
I have three spare skateboard wheels from the set I bought when I made the tensioner for my bike, you can have one.
I machined mine down on my linisher to make it the right width.
All you need is two skate bearings and it's yours.
cheers,
Matt.

It looks good!

You will want alot of tension on the belt to hold all the torque. Also, I am guessing you will want a larger front pulley for a bit more speed.

Matt

recumpence said:

It looks good!

You will want alot of tension on the belt to hold all the torque. Also, I am guessing you will want a larger front pulley for a bit more speed.

Matt

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As mentioned above I have a 40 tooth on order Matt.S & the tensioner as is isnt under tension either its bottomed out and acting as an idler as you suggested (see Pic 9. look closely you can see the idler arm sitting fluch on the mounting bolt, there is ~10mm of UPWARD movement only, so any slack that may come is dealt with by upward pressure from the spring, i dont envisage this will move much at all though.... I have also changed the pulley on the motor output Matt, its now a 20 tooth not 17 Top speed with planned gearing is 67km/hr (~41mph)

KiM

AussieJester said:

I have also changed the pulley on the motor output Matt, its now a 20 tooth not 17 Top speed with planned gearing is 67km/hr (~41mph)

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You might end up having to increase the size of the drive pulley on the second stage, instead/as well, Kim. The torque transferred through that is the motor torque multiplied by the first stage ratio...

Drive pulley on the second stage? ....sorry lost me Miles (not hard too do) The only pulley that hasnt/isnt being changed is the largest pulley on the reduction drive (the wagon wheel looking pulley) is that the one your referring too Miles? I'll run through the pulleys that have been/are changing...the pulley on the motor originally was 17 as sent by Matt S...it is now 20, tooth...the output pulley on the reduction drive (the one that has belt on it too rear wheel pulley) in the pictures above is a 20 tooth, the 40 tooth pulley on order is to replace this one.



The Pulley on the rear wheel will also be replaced (in the future) when second motor is added for a 4inch diameter pulley... I I would be happy with 45km/hr for street use TBH, 2nd gear should get that and BOY will it get there fast (2nd is 1:1 in the 3 speed hub)

KiM

AussieJester said:

I'll run through the pulleys that have been/are changing...the pulley on the motor originally was 17 as sent by Matt S...it is now 20, tooth...the output pulley on the reduction drive (the one that has belt on it too rear wheel pulley) in the pictures above is a 20 tooth, the 40 tooth pulley on order is to replace this one.

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Ah, ok - that's fine. I haven't been paying enough attention

It's the small pulley on the second stage that I was referring to.

The "drive" pulley is the input to a stage, the "driven" pulley is the output.

Miles said:

Ah, ok - that's fine. I haven't been paying enough attention

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SOK Miles we can let you off on this occasion i think you deserve an occasional
slip after all you rarely miss a thing around here hahaa

Cheers mate

KiM

Went to the Drags yesterday so nothing was done in the workshop, Sunday i rarley do
anything work wise as the lads are over, today however i made an exception as
i wanted to rectify an issue with the belt tensioner that was bought to my
attention by the very wise Mr Miles-->

Miles said:

The only change I'd suggest is to increase the diameter of the belt's idler pulley. The rule of thumb is 2.5 times the diameter of the smallest drive pulley.

It will work fine, as it is, but the belt life will be shortened.

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So with this advice on board i went about 'fixing' the belt tensioner idler wheel (which was 2 sealed bearings)



The wheel was roughly cut and shaped on a ghetto jig on the sanding wheel on the linisher before
the bearing recess were 'milled' using air die grinder bits in the drill press.
I have used polyethylene for the wheels (have a few sheets of this i using for my CNC mill linear carriages...)

So Miles...whats the verdict? are we good to go now mate?

KiM

Oh good, for a minute there I thought it wasn't going to have your trademark speed holes :lol:

That looks awesome KiM! Great job! The tensioner is important to be big with belts because it flexes the belt back the wrong way, and it really accelerates cracking if they have to take a sharp bend back the other way. You made a damn nice part there! I bet you with you had your CNC machine for making that little gem

damn Kim,

make it just like that eh?
i now know what i need to do, move next door and bug the hell out of you to make me a 219 one
oh can you throw back my ball from your garden too?

D

AussieJester said:

Went to the Drags yesterday so nothing was done in the workshop, KiM

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You think you can just not tell us how the drags were like that? Any 10second civic streetcars? And of course there were ZERO 10second civic's with no turbo I love my civic.

*cough*

lol

My little special olympian viciously kills, and gets me paid Can't ask for more than that

AussieJester said:

So Miles...whats the verdict? are we good to go now mate?

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That's perfect, Kim. As well as extending the life of the belt, it will be more efficient, too.

Kim, why do you even bother with cnc machine. You can tatoo "Designed for Mach3 " on your forehead.

Awsome work !!!

I have found the only real advantage of a CNC versus good skilled hand-work is repeatability and speed.

Remember, alot of extremely skilled work was accomplished before CNC was made (or even regular milling machines for that matter).

Matt

frankG you beat me to it. lol

actually im kind of worried . i know im new here but ive already learned that aussieJ dont seem to sleep . and the lack of updates has me concerned something has happend OR

hes about to unload a bomb on us and upload a VIDEO 8)

HAHA Frank, could say the same about WorkshopCA updates couldnt we mate?!?! someones been a lazin at the lake and hunt camp last few months havent they! hrmz updates Frank? Updates? LOL

...I've had a few bad days with the legs this week and a couple of 30 plus (temperature) days (whats that Frank..Snow? you got Snow? )so i didnt do anything worthy
of an update, i have done more work to the battery enclosure though, the lid is now mounted in place with 2x8mm
stainless steel button head cap screws.

My lipos have also left HobbyCity and are on route so things will start happening soon ...I have a "to do" list
written out ill start on Monday by midweek the bike will be ready for electrics HOPEFULLY batteries are here by then. I do have a rather major issue though, i have no way of charging the lipos as yet, GGoodrum is rectifying an issue with the balancer/meanwell PSU so the LVC board and balancers haven't made it my way as yet... I might have to buy a RC charger for the time being, i should of picked one up regardless i guess, i have no means to charge individual packs, cheapest decent RC Charger i can get local is the Swallow i have used the previous model to it prior to buying a Hyperion (which i cant afford now) Alternatively i sit tight and wait for Gary to solve the balancer issues which would be a better option IMHO than the alternative, swapping wires over for charge and discharge isn't appealing to me at all.....

Thanks too all for the positive feedback much appreciated

Back when i have more...

KiM

p.s Luke...not a 4 banga in site mate but a few sub 10 second cars that would smoke your Civic ALL pre 1985 cars was the first Nostalgic meet of the season..American Muscle Cars Aussie Muscle Cars ONLY ...Was pretty poor turn out too unfortunately the organisers frocked up on the scheduling and we had a round of the Australian SuperCar V8 series on in Perth (possibly for the last time here) so crowds at the Drags were waaaaay down (and competitors) Here pics of the cars on display in the staging area and pits though...

http://members.ii.net/~aussiejester/index/pictures/Nostalgic%20Drags%2021Nov%202010/

I spoke to both MotorPlex Officials and also the ANDRA scrutineers...regarding running my bike, Motoplex organisers said WOW yeah cant see a problem with that, but best check with the ANDRA guyz first... ANDRA rep said there was no official guidelines for electric vehicles to run so short answer is you cant run...Now this alone told me this clown didn't know what the frock was going on, i had a copy of the ANDRA rules with me and there is indeed a section that outlines the legalities of running electric bikes, i had them underlined and showed him, prolly a bad move, he changed his tone a bit then seeing i called him out on his lack of knowledge to his own organisation. Never the less i have been advised i need to contact ANDRA headquarters and get their permission to run...What WILL happen is ill rock up on a Wednesday night in leathers holding $25 bucks and talk my way into it i think...Motoplex officials were very impressed by the bike and were keen to see it run.

oooo

love the black 68 camaro with the mickey thompsons .

dude that little motor u took the piston outta and made into a shifter still around ? hollow the rest out and clip it to the bike. before you roll out to the tree drop it and run ?
tell em the electric motor is the starter for your highly modified weedeater motor

AussieJester said:

I do have a rather major issue though, i have no way of charging the lipos as yet, GGoodrum is rectifying an issue with the balancer/meanwell PSU so the LVC board and balancers haven't made it my way as yet... I might have to buy a RC charger for the time being, i should of picked one up regardless i guess

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Dude just wire your packs up in their 12S config and charge them direct off the meanwell @ 50v. That'll get you by until Gary's gear arrives and it sounds like you're not ready for using this as full time transport so will only be doing a few test runs that won't be draining the packs completely. You don't REALLY need a balancer as long as the packs aren't DOA, hell I've put ~150 charges on mine now without balancing ONCE! Geez mate, I thought you were gangsta

PS: I used a swallow to charge 4 lots of x 6S 4000mah lipos and it lasted 2 weeks before it blew up. Luckily I bought it locally and was able to return it for a refund

Hyena said:

AussieJester said:

I do have a rather major issue though, i have no way of charging the lipos as yet, GGoodrum is rectifying an issue with the balancer/meanwell PSU so the LVC board and balancers haven't made it my way as yet... I might have to buy a RC charger for the time being, i should of picked one up regardless i guess

Click to expand...

Dude just wire your packs up in their 12S config and charge them direct off the meanwell @ 50v. That'll get you by until Gary's gear arrives and it sounds like you're not ready for using this as full time transport so will only be doing a few test runs that won't be draining the packs completely. You don't REALLY need a balancer as long as the packs aren't DOA, hell I've put ~150 charges on mine now without balancing ONCE! Geez mate, I thought you were gangsta

PS: I used a swallow to charge 4 lots of x 6S 4000mah lipos and it lasted 2 weeks before it blew up. Luckily I bought it locally and was able to return it for a refund

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Just pmed you before i got this email about this post hahaa... I need to find the balancer taps to make up the leads ... I thought i would do the same as your doing with the 24v psu i suppose i could do them in 12s config :-S This is the only thing that pisses me about lipos, i DONT want to be swaping leads about too charge means opening up the battery enclosure pulling wires or packs out etc etc etc One plug to charge in side of the bo is the setup im after and thats exactly what GGoodrums components allow. TBH i'll prolly end up waiting for the balancer and boards rather than fart assing around with ghetto setups. While wires from asshole to breakfast hanging out of packs held together with duct tape might be impressive to some, GangSTA 8) and "badass" IMHO it looks shit house ghetto and amateurish and isn't something i would or will do...neat and tidy is a priority for me on this bike.

KiM

p.s im not GangSTA 8) Im an 'apprentice' GangSTA 8)

If you're going to have different charge / discharge configs andersons are the best way to go to avoid KFF.

This is my 15S battery box - set up to be able to run as 15S2P for high speed 10S3P for longer range or 5S6P for charging (depending on which corresponding plug you use )
For you you'd only need 4 pins - basically each one being +ve and -ve 6S output and you run em in parallel to charge and in series to discharge.



Balance taps wise, I solder my 5ah packs together to create 10ah ones that are easier to work with. Yeah in the event of failure you'll have to cut one pack out, but its fairly unlikely.



Failing that if you want to leave each 5ah pack as is you'll need to make up a parallel harness like this.



Thats an old one I made by you can can get 20cm 6S extensions from hobbyking now which makes life easier. Just order a bunch of those, cut em in half and then solder back together with how ever many you need in parallel.

Hyena said:

20cm 6S extensions from hobbyking l.

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Thats what i was looking for cheers for that...

On second thoughts though, there is no reason i cant just use the parallel adapter boards GGoodrum makes is there, i dont HAVE to have the balancer side of the setup and with the board i can leave them all connected and charge all 8 packs in one hit without the balancer :-| I think the best thing for me is too just wait for Gary to sort the balancer issues out, i cant afford to be buying additional packs at this stage because of my stupidity.

KiM

I just got done looking through all the pics.

My favorite was the yellow coupe with the supercharged injected hemi. I would love to run him on the street. I liked the slick con-rod steering collum support.



Definately had some cars there that would beat me, but I'm not sure I saw any streetcars that would beat me.