Stinky Turnigy 80-100 -Nuvinci semi auto

I found two of them at a good price, the spec of the 20:1 version seemed perfect for my application.

1) 20:1 PLE80 which is working very well on the current bike at ~4.6kW
2) 8:1 PLE80 which I am planning a build with next.

The 8:1 box is a single stage and an inch shorter than the other one which is two stage.
The output torque rating of the 8:1 box is not as high, but I am hopefull it will be good enough.

All that is required is the addition of a bearing to support the input shaft, and you are away.....

The only criticism I could have of these gearboxes (apart from the seriously high price for a new one) is that they are perhaps a bit heavy.
My advise............ GO FOR IT :D


gw,
I will measure the current draw for the 80-85 when it arrives

Cheers,
Burtie
 
Thanks Burtie.

I am soooooo pissed off right now!!! :evil: There was 4 of those Nuegarts on Ebay that sold for $52.00 - $63.00 plus shipping and I got outbid on 2 of them !!!! Was that a good price?
 
It arrived...
Eager to try out my new Turnigy 200 Amp controller, I secured it to the bike with a piece of elastic.


New ESC on Stinky.jpg

Swapped a few wires over, calibrated the throttle and set off up the road.

Progress in the first three gears was encouraging!
As the road straigtened out in front of me, I put my weight over the handlebars, slipped it into 4th gear and nailed it :twisted:


Instead of the anticipated blast of power, a familliar and hideous SCREEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEECH came from the motor :( .


It appeared I had not fixed my loss of sync problem after all.
 
Damn Burtie sorry to hear thast mate, one would think these Turnigy 200amp ESC would be perfectly set for the
Turnigy motor there supposed to run :-S You have swapped ESC and servo tester IIRC? Whats next Burtie?
Maybe the old 110 with different servo tester :: shrugs :: Hope you nail it soon anywayz mate...

KiM
 
AussieJester said:
Damn Burtie sorry to hear thast mate, one would think these Turnigy 200amp ESC would be perfectly set for the
Turnigy motor there supposed to run :-S You have swapped ESC and servo tester IIRC? Whats next Burtie?
Maybe the old 110 with different servo tester :: shrugs :: Hope you nail it soon anywayz mate...

KiM
Click to expand...

When I first started playing around with RC esc I got around the loss of sync problems when the motor was already running by incorporating a fast'ish delay ramp over the complete range on the servo throttle input it was only about .5sec from zero to full but this helped, this was only on a small motor , I dont know if this fast'ish ramp will help on larger motors but may be worth trying. Also I think that it indicates that the gearing is to high for the motor to spin up fast enough to keep in time with the throttle (so the first reduction stage need to be as big as possible this will also help if you know what I mean), this also helps with the startup sync problem ( but I could never get rid of it completely with the controllers that I have played with ).
 
KiM,
I agree, a little disappointing that this Turnigy equipment has compatibility problems.

gw,
Yes I think ramping up the throttle demand gradualy probably would solve (or hide) the problem. The trouble is that I like/need to have instant throttle response, and if there is some box of trickery in the way that delays the response, then the whole experience doesnt feel quite right to me.

I am beginning to think that a sensored system, as you are using, may be the best solution here.
But before embarking on such a radical course of action I may try swapping the motor. The 80-85 arrived yesterday (I will measure the current soon :wink: ). I guess this motor has a lower inductance than the 80-100, so the controller may like it better.

Burtie
 
The previous firmwares of the HV110 are worse on high inductance motors, they lost synch more often. The Castle controllers are still the best sensorless ones I have used. You should be able to roll the firmware back so far if you want to try though. I haven't found a solution for it either, it just seems that some motors don't like to stay synched.


Looks like an awesome build, tons o fun.
 
Burtie said:
KiM,
I agree, a little disappointing that this Turnigy equipment has compatibility problems.

gw,
Yes I think ramping up the throttle demand gradualy probably would solve (or hide) the problem. The trouble is that I like/need to have instant throttle response, and if there is some box of trickery in the way that delays the response, then the whole experience doesnt feel quite right to me.

I am beginning to think that a sensored system, as you are using, may be the best solution here.
But before embarking on such a radical course of action I may try swapping the motor. The 80-85 arrived yesterday (I will measure the current soon :wink: ). I guess this motor has a lower inductance than the 80-100, so the controller may like it better.

Burtie
Click to expand...

KiM,
fechter' box already delays the throttle demand so you may not have this problem that Burtie is seeing. The ramp does not really notice for "normal" riding but I also like/require the instant response for more technical riding and also require instant startup from stop and this was the main reason why I have now gone to a sensored controller.
Thanks Burtie, if you can measure the current it would be a great help for me ( but im beginning to think that 4.5A at 37v is normal, but I hope not ) but watch the heat in the motor it builds up really quick.
 
gw,

The no load current of my Turingy 80-85 motor at 37v is about 5.5Amps

Burtie.
 
Burtie said:
gw,

The no load current of my Turingy 80-85 motor at 37v is about 5.5Amps

Burtie.
Click to expand...

Thanks so much for this burtie. That ties in nicely because the large skirt bearing was drawing about 1A. I am a bit disappointed to how much the idle current is but if this is the norm for this motor I spose its not that bad for the price. Did you find yours gets hot very quickly?.
 
When I first ran it, the area around the skirt bearing got quite hot after a minute or so at full RPM. I thought it was due to friction in the bearing, so I stripped it down, washed out the bearing in paraffin and re-lubed it.
The motor runs much cooler now.

The skirt bearing still felt a bit rough even after cleaning it out, so I have a new bearing ordered. I hope that when I fit it, the motor will run a bit quieter.

[Edit: It does run much quieter]
 
Whilst we are on bearings i got an email from my local bearing supplier, i asked if he could
source ceramic bearings for the turnigy, he can, at 50 bucks a pop IF i order a minimum of 5 LoL

KiM
 
:shock:

KiM, have you considered just adding a larger, cheaper external bearing housed in your motor mounting?
 
Burtie said:
:shock:

KiM, have you considered just adding a larger, cheaper external bearing housed in your motor mounting?
Click to expand...
This is what I have done with all 3 of my motors.
 
Burtie said:
:shock:

KiM, have you considered just adding a larger, cheaper external bearing housed in your motor mounting?
Click to expand...

Yes this will be done on the second motor but i can't do it for the number 1 motor the reduction drive
doesn't have the 'space' on the mounting plat for additional bearings. I did think of popping the motors endplate in the lathe
and turning the bearing recess out to accept a larger bearing though. I still haven't stripped the motor though
so not sure if this is an option yet. The second motor i get will be the newer version with larger bearings if i can
copy this and modify the older motor I'll be happy chappy...

KiM
 
Today I blew up my HV110 :? I dont know why it happened. I had the extra capacitors fitted since it was new (2x 1000uf).

I had been trying out a new motor, the turnigy 80-85. I had two good runs with it, about 2 or 3 miles in total, pulling a peak current of 120 amps for a short period. The controller was bolted to a large heatsink and was not even warm.

I recharged the LiPos and was testing the motor/gearbox with the drive chain removed so there was very little load on the motor. I span the motor up to full RPM and closed the throttle. This worked ok twice, the third time I tried it, the motor did not spin. I closed the throtle and opened it once more. There was a dull 'pop' followed by the acrid magic smoke from the controller :roll:


This is the 2nd RC controller I have fried in a week using the same motor (See Turnigy Monster 200 thread). The motor does not seem to have any shorted windings.
 
Burtie said:
Today I blew up my HV110 :
Click to expand...

Noooooooooooooooooo Burtieeeeeeeeeeeeeee... DAMN it! man your not instilling a lot of confidence in my setup buddy blowing stuff and sync issues LoL.. My only last hope is Mr Fechters lil black box of tricks being the difference..Least i can limit current with it.

Can you get me a close up of the heat sink and ESC please mate (if your not still fuming...when you return to "no pissed" mode is fine buddy) mine is still all stock config with original heat sinks i haven't tampered with it yet but i do have a large box of old pc CPU heat sinks i could attach. I been a lil erm "timid" about pulling it apart. Me and electronics have a somewhat chequered past ... me gets frustrated electrnics getz broked is the general course things take.

So Burtie, are you at the 'fit hall sensors' and use a brushless speed controller stage yet?
Or is it a HV140 on the cards (actually i think i saw JohnRobHolmes mention they have stopped making that
model and have another in its place i dont recall the exact number...)

Shit luck anywayz Burtie...Hope ou get something sorted so we can see you tearing around in a video again :)

KiM
 
OK,
Its time to do the hall sensored thing :D

Here is a the hall sensor ring, made from a milled up plastic bread board.

Sensor ring.jpg

18 FET controller to follow....
 
Hmmmm, I don't think we allow pictures of kitty's on this forum, I think we should flag that last post Burtie. Right guys?? :wink:
 
etard said:
Hmmmm, I don't think we allow pictures of kitty's on this forum, I think we should flag that last post Burtie. Right guys?? :wink:
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure that's an alien, not a cat.

And does that alien have a bit of plastic bread board over it's head too? Looks like there is a square thing with a round hole around its neck...
 
Thought I would have a go at glueing the sensors inside the motor, cos it seems like loads less trouble, and both gwhy! and Jeremy have had good results doing this. --------So here goes------ :?


Internal hall sensor.jpg



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4VhZcLkoBZw

[youtube]4VhZcLkoBZw[/youtube]
 
Hi Miles,

I think they only "sensored" the low quality version :eek: . It seems to work ok if you click the HQ button.
 
Very cool Burtie looks like your on your way too trouble free controller now mate :)

I see to we have a similar 'secret weapon' i.e BeeR
is that that room temp black pee alot of you POMs drink or REAL beer, amber in colour and
icey cold? If not the later perhaps swapping to it will improve results :mrgreen:

KiM
 
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