Fitting freewheels to splined freehub drivers

here you go Gwhy. I am pretty certain Mud has one of these large dies.

actually I have 2, I ruined the first one trying to thread a freehub and not realising it was hardened. :oops:
 
As Mud said, you can't cut threads in a hub body as it is hardened. You can get a hub body with threads though and it will easily hold pedal power. Old school hubs used to hold the sprockets on by threading the last few sprockets on like a freewheel, or freewheel "cassette". Look for old uniglide hubs. You may be able to find a few still being made or you can get them with a full hub. Most hub bodies you can remove from the hub and put on another hub, but some are not interchangeable.

FM
 
IIRC, there are alloy freehubs...
pbpic4252973.jpg
 
Hi,

gwhy! said:
It worked a treat. Im very happy. These dicta freewheels are pretty good for the price and good enough for the peddle power. Happy days :mrgreen:
Will that work with a WI (threads might be a lot harder)?

Luke said:
Now it's just a matter of getting me to the damn post office... lol... I'm like the worlds least responsible guy for mailing things... I've probably got 10 little wacky things piled up on the shelf by my front door that all need to be mailed out to various places...

If you have a scale for determining the package weight use the Paypal interface to the USPS (if you send a package to someone who paid you something w/Paypal it will even fill in their address:
https://www.paypal.com/us/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_ship-now

You can schedule a pickup online or drop them off without waiting in line.
 
MitchJi said:
gwhy! said:
It worked a treat. Im very happy. These dicta freewheels are pretty good for the price and good enough for the peddle power. Happy days :mrgreen:
Will that work with a WI (threads might be a lot harder)?
The WI should work better, as it is not hardened. It has a replaceable sealed bearing.
 
flyinmonkie said:
As Mud said, you can't cut threads in a hub body as it is hardened. You can get a hub body with threads though and it will easily hold pedal power. Old school hubs used to hold the sprockets on by threading the last few sprockets on like a freewheel, or freewheel "cassette". Look for old uniglide hubs. You may be able to find a few still being made or you can get them with a full hub. Most hub bodies you can remove from the hub and put on another hub, but some are not interchangeable.

FM

I will soften it a little so it should'nt be a prob ( but it might be, I got to try it ) . I also what to make the freehub shorter so the dish on the wheel isnt so extrem ( I have a really wide rim )..

edit : typo
 
TylerDurden said:
MitchJi said:
gwhy! said:
It worked a treat. Im very happy. These dicta freewheels are pretty good for the price and good enough for the peddle power. Happy days :mrgreen:
Will that work with a WI (threads might be a lot harder)?
The WI should work better, as it is not hardened. It has a replaceable sealed bearing.

The WI freewheels are very good FW but They should be for the price which I am not willing to pay for when there are Cheaper Just as good quality FW available, The chrome Dicta FW are OK for normal peddle power and are around 5-6 UKpounds or a better more robust FW is ACS Claws freewheels as a buget FW Which are also very good for the price around 10-15 UKpounds. I would like to try and use this method of a diy broach to cut through a shoulder of a WI FW But Im not totally sure it will ( the broach ) be up to the job. I have put the test FW that I diy broached onto the free hub and peddled the bike around a bit ( up a few hills putting my full weight onto the peddles ) and it didnt show any signs of giving way, but this was a very short test and I think I would be happier if it were threaded.
 
mud2005 said:
here you go Gwhy. I am pretty certain Mud has one of these large dies.

actually I have 2, I ruined the first one trying to thread a freehub and not realising it was hardened. :oops:

Have to given it another go but try softening the hub first..
 
I have been putting upto 4 kw through this setup ( dicta FW's ) on my prototype ( hack ) bike they are on a screw hub and joined with a BB cup as described earlier in this thread. Both FW are showing no signs of wear and are still quite, I must say though that I have not put many miles on this setup but the miles I have done have be very very hard ones :wink: .
proto_fw.jpg

I would stick with this arrangment if I didnt want to eventually lock the big sprocket to use regen/plug braking
 
Excuse my lapse of attention. Can someone tell me what's happening to this thread? Last I heard it was the hot topic: Thud, LFP etc were broachin' away like there was no tomorrow... then nothing! Either I've missed summat or I'm being too impatient :D
 
Paul,
I inquired w/Luke recently & I know he has broached free wheel sets for at least 2 guys on this board, maybe more, Don't know if they have received the return pakages yet.

I myself, have been shoping around for a wheel or hub to relace to utilize this set up. I have at least 4 builds in mind I would like to do.....2 of them would use this set up.

I am also curious to see some real world testing.....I suspect the weak link in this will be the hub engadgment points, not the WI freewheels.
 
Hi Thud/Paul,

i recieved my 16T and sickbikes broached eno's on thursday from cool hand Luke (many thanks Luke and Thud for making this happen) but i've been on nights, will post some pics soon.


Miles,

i did manage to get to the postie this morning after work and yours is on the way - sent today recorded for Monday delivery.

I'll have a play with fitting and get some shots up on Tuesday probably, now if only i had a monster 219 sprocket :wink:

D
 
paultrafalgar said:
Excuse my lapse of attention. Can someone tell me what's happening to this thread? Last I heard it was the hot topic: Thud, LFP etc were broachin' away like there was no tomorrow... then nothing! Either I've missed summat or I'm being too impatient :D

the pace on this board is fast and furious. one solution then onto the next. i think lfp is busy baking $2.50/Ah cookies and frying fets:

http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=15093
 
Anyone who wants one can mail them to me, paypal Thud $20, and I will broach it an send it back. :)
 
liveforphysics said:
Anyone who wants one can mail them to me, paypal Thud $20, and I will broach it an send it back. :)

That's a very generous offer Luke, I might have to take you up on that.

Have you guys seen this little doohicky?

http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/CS611B00-Gusset+Single+Speed+Conversion+Kit.aspx

I think it could be used for someone who doesn't want two loud ass WI freewheels clickity clacking all the time. It comes with two sizes, maybe one could bolt to a monster sprocket if it were to be ISO Disk bolt pattern. :roll:
 
Bugger!!... I knew there was a reason why I dont like freewheel hubs :evil: just broke my first one under electric power, Im gonna have to have a re-think about how to drive the back wheel.
 
:lol:
it was a shimano ( it was a cheap one to be fair ). the freewheel mech works both ways now 8) .I havent took it apart yet to see what have happend ( my first guess is that maybe the springs\pawls are shot ) on a plus note it did fail safe just as i was about to launch the bike over a rather large tree stump from a stand still there was a large bang then the bike didnt move :p
 
sheeet, i ust ordered my sram :roll:
although in your aplivation gwhy you do ask for all torque from standstill right/

D
 
deecanio said:
sheeet, i ust ordered my sram :roll:
although in your aplivation gwhy you do ask for all torque from standstill right/

D

yes all the torque instantly from a standstill for me. There is enough torque to loop the bike out from underneath me without moving forward. :mrgreen:
 
Hi,

What did you do that caused it to break?

Maybe you should try a Phil Wood Chris King or another heavy duty Hub?
We don't see using a different manufacturer of hubs for our machines, other than Chris King, any time in the near future, as these are built to last and a pleasure to ride on. So, if you can afford the initial and substantial cost of these hubs, we would have to say they are worth the money. We have worn out many other hubs within the same time span that these have been running, and these appear to not even be a small fraction of the way through their lifespan.

There are also heavy duty (Chris King) hub sets (or extreme use), and upgradable parts available for Mountain bikes, downhill machines, or free ride types to even further extend the durability. Stainless steel axles, mounts and shells can be installed to bombproof the hubs.

The most useful upgrade we have seen for mountain bikes is a stainless steel rear shell that the cassette slides over and locks on to, as apposed to the standard road bicycle aluminum. With the Shimano XT, XTR and many other brands, the standard aluminum Chris King rear shell gets gnawed by the smaller separate cogs, on the rear axle, that are not part of the unified section of larger cogs, mounted on the alloy carrier, which all together make up a mountain bike cassette.
 
thanks gwhy i thought as much, still we'll soon see how the dual drive holds up, hopefully my motor is in one of the boxes Matt recieved, if luke comes up with the monster sprocket im set for rebuild.

D
 
MitchJi said:
Hi,

What did you do that caused it to break?

Maybe you should try a Phil Wood Chris King or another heavy duty Hub?
We don't see using a different manufacturer of hubs for our machines, other than Chris King, any time in the near future, as these are built to last and a pleasure to ride on. So, if you can afford the initial and substantial cost of these hubs, we would have to say they are worth the money. We have worn out many other hubs within the same time span that these have been running, and these appear to not even be a small fraction of the way through their lifespan.

There are also heavy duty (Chris King) hub sets (or extreme use), and upgradable parts available for Mountain bikes, downhill machines, or free ride types to even further extend the durability. Stainless steel axles, mounts and shells can be installed to bombproof the hubs.

The most useful upgrade we have seen for mountain bikes is a stainless steel rear shell that the cassette slides over and locks on to, as apposed to the standard road bicycle aluminum. With the Shimano XT, XTR and many other brands, the standard aluminum Chris King rear shell gets gnawed by the smaller separate cogs, on the rear axle, that are not part of the unified section of larger cogs, mounted on the alloy carrier, which all together make up a mountain bike cassette.

I launch the bike from a standstill "feetup" to throw the bike up stuff, its not you typical riding style :mrgreen:

I think its because of the hammering effect , if the freewheel isn't engaged when I dump the throttle it can have a lot of travel before it engages so the pawls hammers into the rachet mech and i think this is what has happened. The chris king hubs are very good but very expensive for something that may be ok. I am going to re arrange my drive so that the motor driven sprocket on the wheel is going to be fixed then hope the spokes dont start braking instead :lol: .

Edit:
Hi D Im sure that for normal/off roading most hubs will be be fine ( I am asking alot from pushbike components for the style I ride ).
 
I would have thought for trials type riding having a freewheel on the back would be worse than fixed anywayz, wouldnt it be more 'motorcycle' like with a bit of resistance from the motor when you throttled off?
Im sure with fixed sprocket you wont have issues anywayz gwhy :)

KiM
 
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