mud2005
10 kW
here you go Gwhy. I am pretty certain Mud has one of these large dies.
actually I have 2, I ruined the first one trying to thread a freehub and not realising it was hardened.
here you go Gwhy. I am pretty certain Mud has one of these large dies.
Will that work with a WI (threads might be a lot harder)?gwhy! said:It worked a treat. Im very happy. These dicta freewheels are pretty good for the price and good enough for the peddle power. Happy days
Luke said:Now it's just a matter of getting me to the damn post office... lol... I'm like the worlds least responsible guy for mailing things... I've probably got 10 little wacky things piled up on the shelf by my front door that all need to be mailed out to various places...
The WI should work better, as it is not hardened. It has a replaceable sealed bearing.MitchJi said:Will that work with a WI (threads might be a lot harder)?gwhy! said:It worked a treat. Im very happy. These dicta freewheels are pretty good for the price and good enough for the peddle power. Happy days
flyinmonkie said:As Mud said, you can't cut threads in a hub body as it is hardened. You can get a hub body with threads though and it will easily hold pedal power. Old school hubs used to hold the sprockets on by threading the last few sprockets on like a freewheel, or freewheel "cassette". Look for old uniglide hubs. You may be able to find a few still being made or you can get them with a full hub. Most hub bodies you can remove from the hub and put on another hub, but some are not interchangeable.
FM
TylerDurden said:The WI should work better, as it is not hardened. It has a replaceable sealed bearing.MitchJi said:Will that work with a WI (threads might be a lot harder)?gwhy! said:It worked a treat. Im very happy. These dicta freewheels are pretty good for the price and good enough for the peddle power. Happy days
mud2005 said:here you go Gwhy. I am pretty certain Mud has one of these large dies.
actually I have 2, I ruined the first one trying to thread a freehub and not realising it was hardened.
paultrafalgar said:Excuse my lapse of attention. Can someone tell me what's happening to this thread? Last I heard it was the hot topic: Thud, LFP etc were broachin' away like there was no tomorrow... then nothing! Either I've missed summat or I'm being too impatient
liveforphysics said:Anyone who wants one can mail them to me, paypal Thud $20, and I will broach it an send it back.
deecanio said:sheeet, i ust ordered my sram
although in your aplivation gwhy you do ask for all torque from standstill right/
D
We don't see using a different manufacturer of hubs for our machines, other than Chris King, any time in the near future, as these are built to last and a pleasure to ride on. So, if you can afford the initial and substantial cost of these hubs, we would have to say they are worth the money. We have worn out many other hubs within the same time span that these have been running, and these appear to not even be a small fraction of the way through their lifespan.
There are also heavy duty (Chris King) hub sets (or extreme use), and upgradable parts available for Mountain bikes, downhill machines, or free ride types to even further extend the durability. Stainless steel axles, mounts and shells can be installed to bombproof the hubs.
The most useful upgrade we have seen for mountain bikes is a stainless steel rear shell that the cassette slides over and locks on to, as apposed to the standard road bicycle aluminum. With the Shimano XT, XTR and many other brands, the standard aluminum Chris King rear shell gets gnawed by the smaller separate cogs, on the rear axle, that are not part of the unified section of larger cogs, mounted on the alloy carrier, which all together make up a mountain bike cassette.
MitchJi said:Hi,
What did you do that caused it to break?
Maybe you should try a Phil Wood Chris King or another heavy duty Hub?
We don't see using a different manufacturer of hubs for our machines, other than Chris King, any time in the near future, as these are built to last and a pleasure to ride on. So, if you can afford the initial and substantial cost of these hubs, we would have to say they are worth the money. We have worn out many other hubs within the same time span that these have been running, and these appear to not even be a small fraction of the way through their lifespan.
There are also heavy duty (Chris King) hub sets (or extreme use), and upgradable parts available for Mountain bikes, downhill machines, or free ride types to even further extend the durability. Stainless steel axles, mounts and shells can be installed to bombproof the hubs.
The most useful upgrade we have seen for mountain bikes is a stainless steel rear shell that the cassette slides over and locks on to, as apposed to the standard road bicycle aluminum. With the Shimano XT, XTR and many other brands, the standard aluminum Chris King rear shell gets gnawed by the smaller separate cogs, on the rear axle, that are not part of the unified section of larger cogs, mounted on the alloy carrier, which all together make up a mountain bike cassette.