From what I've heard the Cute motors are wound for Euro standards so about 15mph on the road speed. If you want more speed I guess you need to get motors wound for 24 or 20 inch wheels and put them in 26 or 700c rims.Mark_A_W wrote:Are you sure you have the right winding motor?
With 48v I would be hoping for a no load speed of about 45kmh, which is closer to 30mph.
But glad to hear it is running and keen to hear how it goes with two motors, should climb straight up the walls!
I bought a new video camera for Christmas so I plan on getting some vids hopefully on my next day off.The Stig wrote:Nice, when are we gonna see some vids? I didn't quite understand the problem with the front motor, did you not have enough washers or does the axle need some filing or something?
They only thing I want to find out with these little motors before I do my dual 108 motor build is how little drag they have when freewheeling. Did you observe anything in that respect? If you've owned any other geared hub motors a comparison would be great.
Yeah it should be great offroad. I was riding in the grass along an access road to stay out of traffic yesterday and it was plenty fast and fun.torker wrote:That's a good speed for offroading. Might get a little tedious for commuting. Or not. How fast did you travel on legs alone? How does that little motor pull from a stop? Get to speed pretty quick?
That's weird. I wonder if they are consolidating websites over to ecitypower.com. That's their other site btw.torker wrote:Also wondering. BMSBattery is not showing any ebike batts on their site ????
Not off topic at all since that's where I got some of the major parts for the build.torker wrote:I just read on the CUTE hub thread that it is the Chinese new year till march. That may be why the BMS site seems empty of stock. Or maybe you have to be logged in to see it. Plus on ecitypower do you have to contact them for prices? Sorry to get off topic.
Is there a way of installing the washers on the outside of the dropouts? Looking at the pics here https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... 30#p221058 the axle is def long enough.GrayKard wrote:I ran into a problem with the front motor. With washers installed inside the dropouts it caused some binding of the shocks.
I will have washers on the outside too. Just to confirm what the last few posters said about it: The flats are too small on this hub to install it without washers there. If the dropouts were steel and it looked like a good fit I would consider leaving the washers off. But since it's aluminum I'm going with overkill on the mating surfaces.full-throttle wrote:Is there a way of installing the washers on the outside of the dropouts? Looking at the pics here https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... 30#p221058 the axle is def long enough.GrayKard wrote:I ran into a problem with the front motor. With washers installed inside the dropouts it caused some binding of the shocks.
Thanks, I can't wait to get the other motor on!full-throttle wrote:Great build BTW!
I measured them and they are 108mm from spoke hole to spoke hole so they are both QX100 models. I also checked my dropout widths. The front is right at 100mm and the rear is 135mm.cell_man wrote:Hi Graycard,
Is your front motor the same QX85 motor that you have on the rear? I assume it is as that's all that will fit with disks on the front.
Yeah, that is a good option, didn't even think of that.cell_man wrote:I've got both versions and on 1 side of the axle there is a small nut that can easily be removed. If it were me I would start with that nut and take a little bit off of it. Just spending 10mins rubbing both sides down on a piece of sand paper would sort it. It's not doing so much there and doesn't need to be particularly strong. I'm sure you could lose maybe up to 2mm from that nut.
Another good idea that could be used with the first so less material would need to be removed from the nut.cell_man wrote: If you can find some quite thin stainless steel washers that might be enough to stop the binding.
IMO the slotted washers are completely inappropriate for an install on aluminum dropouts. They don't transfer the torque to the frame they transfer it to the dropout slots which is what you want to avoid.cell_man wrote: I don't think the slotted washers that are included are necessary on the inside of the dropout and they are pretty thick too.
I do have access to a metal lathe but I don't feel like doing all that work to get the axle out.cell_man wrote: If you need a bit more removed I'm sure you could carefully take a little material from the disk side of the axle. As long as you get it reasonably flat I'm sure it will be just fine. If you carefully took some material off with a handfile it would be fine. If you wanted a proper job take it apart and get it machined down on a lathe. The Axle is actually 2 pieces. It's not so difficult to take the motor apart once you've made a tool to take the side cover off (it's threaded on) but if the motor hasn't been run yet it shouldn't be so tight.
Best of luck
Ahh, I thought the different motors had different diameters, now it makes sense. So I originally ordered the QX128's but they told me they wouldn't work. I switched to QX100's that they said would work. But they sent me QX85's which do fit with a little coaxing. Makes me a bit angry that they didn't consult me, or notify me about the changes, before sending them. Thanks for clearing that up.cell_man wrote:Agreed the slotted washers that most ship with their motor are not great. The best 1s I've seen are those that ship with the Bafang motors. They are a proper machined part and can be used indide or outside the dropout.
When I say QX85 I just meant the width and that is the way Ecity described them. Basically the QX100 takes up the full width of 100mm forks and cannot accept a disk brake. The QX85 has fittings to bolt the disk directly to the side of the motor. The QX85 is a little lower powered though than the wider QX100. Both the QX100 and QX85 have 108mm spoke radius.
I reckon you'll be ok by just messing with that nut and changing the washers. Even modding the axle a little is no big deal with a steady hand and a dremmel
That isn't the issue. It's the distance from the cover to the fork leg. If I remove the width equivalent to two washers from the nut, and only put one washer on this side, it will probably rub. But if I remove it from the other side and add a washer here I will gain a bit more clearance.cell_man wrote:It shouldn't matter even if the nut is cut back as long as the washer you use has less than 20mm outside diameter. There is a recess on that side of the motor and if the washer fits in there it's all good. I would say that nut is very likely not required if it's replaced with a suitable spacer/washers. Try spinning the axle and looking at that side of the motor and you'll see what I mean.
It's intended purpose is for commuting but... Shhh, don't tell anybody, I already tried it offroad with both motors temporarily installed. It was a blast! I had an EV grin on steroids.LI-ghtcycle wrote:Love the Idea!!
I have to ask, do you plan on just using it for a commuter, or will you be doing some trail riding too? I have skeptic shop owner who doesn't think DH and electric bike go together.
I'd love to show your build as an example to prove him wrong!
FWIW, I'm not having any trouble with curbs using my FWD eZee motor - either approaching them (wheelie) or descending them (sort of a wheelie to keep the front wheel from taking the shock).dogman wrote:My town has just about all the wheelchair ramps done on the sidewalks, so I don't need to pop over curbs any.