Fitting freewheels to splined freehub drivers

comradegerry said:
Anybody know of another source of the flanged Eno free wheel other than Sikebikeparts? They appear to be out at their website.
Gerard
Click to expand...
Expect to start shipping again 3/8/10
Click to expand...

Email from Sickbikeparts.
We are really hoping by Monday or Tuesday next week. So sorry for the delay. White is a pretty good company but they are slow and don't have good scheduling practices.
Click to expand...
 
Why is no one interested in purchasing a full bike:

http://www.pushandpedal.com/Product/Adult_Bikes/Detail/3959_Schwinn_Sierra_DSX_Comfort_Bike_%28M/L%29_S5436Z/#

for 337$ ???

I do not have the money to purchase yet, but this seems to be the cheapest way to go. Purchasing the unit bare at Jenson is 275 or so, and then you have to buy the other bits, clickbox etc.

The fact that no one else seems to see what I see (cheapest way to get a dualdrive hub) makes me wonder... Am I missing something?


Katou
 
Found a tandem (higher loading of hub gears) that uses the Sram Dualdrive:
http://community.bikefriday.com/node/7327?components=1

Comment from a user found on: http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-110070.html
elares 05-31-05, 12:50 PM

"Bike Friday equips many of their multi seaters with internally geared hubs. We have them on our double and triple. They work well. No troubles."

But temper the good news with:
bentbaggerlen 06-04-05, 08:03 AM

"The older Sachs 3x7 hub and the new Sram 3x9 (http://www.sram.com/dualdrive/) hub are used on the Bike Friday (http://www.bikefriday.com/) tandems with a 20" (406) wheel. Tourque at the hub is lower with a 20" wheel then with a 26 or 700 wheel. The 3x7, 3x8 or 3x9 hubs are not suitable for tandems with larger wheels. Even when used with a 20" wheel if you tell Sram that it was mounted on a tandem they will not warrenty the hub should it fail. If the hub was mounted on a Bike Friday, you return the hub to Bike Friday and they will warrenty the hub.

Now before the flames start flying...the Sachs and Sram hubs are great products as are the bikes offered by Bike Friday. I have had both with out any problems.

The only internal geared hub that is rated for tandems is the Rohloff hub. "
 
I didn't read the whole topic, mostly looked at the pictures. I saw that some members modded their own freewheels to fit on splined freehubs, but doesn't somebody sell them here on the forum or a shop? I think if I modify one myself I'll blow it :lol: Or is it really easy to do, with some files?
These:
file.php
 
Byte said:
I didn't read the whole topic, mostly looked at the pictures. I saw that some members modded their own freewheels to fit on splined freehubs, but doesn't somebody sell them here on the forum or a shop? I think if I modify one myself I'll blow it :lol: Or is it really easy to do, with some files?
Click to expand...

You can send a FW to Luke and send Thud 20 bux.

In the thread is Miles' handiwork with a "spar-slotter", if you are interested in DIY.
 
I read from the beginning, and I for one wish that Miles explained in a bit more detail how he did it.

I have to save up for the hubs still, but just in case Luke gets tired of broaching, it'd be good to have a backup plan.

Katou
 
TylerDurden said:
Byte said:
I didn't read the whole topic, mostly looked at the pictures. I saw that some members modded their own freewheels to fit on splined freehubs, but doesn't somebody sell them here on the forum or a shop? I think if I modify one myself I'll blow it :lol: Or is it really easy to do, with some files?
Click to expand...

You can send a FW to Luke and send Thud 20 bux.

In the thread is Miles' handiwork with a "spar-slotter", if you are interested in DIY.
Click to expand...

Hmm ok.. I would need 2 freewheels, so it would cost 40 bucks + shipping to Luke + shipping to (me) the Netherlands. I think it's easier and cheaper to ask someone over here in the Netherlands to CNC 2 freewheels for me isn't it?

Oh and what do you guys think, do I really need a HeavyDuty Freewheel for a high-powered bike or would a cheap one like this one (http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalo...id=34&osCsid=7150d7eeecda1fad1eded45cd39cb1d0) be good enough to handle the power? (Using a Turnigy 80-100-B 130Kv Brushless Outrunner on 10S LiPo)
 
A cheap acs claw freewheel will be fine for the peddled freewheel but for the motor driven freewheel yes a good quality one will be required I personally think any freewheel with at least 60 engagement points will do the job just as well as a WI ENO. Look for cycletrials freewheels ( the engagement points are often referred to as clicks so look for a least a 60 click freewheel ). But be warned there is no quick fix to fit any onto a freewheel hub. I think one major issue with using one freewheel driving a freewheel hub is that the hub usually has a low count number of clicks so I again personally think it defeats the object ( well it improves it slightly ) of having a high count number of clicks freewheel that is driving a freewheel hub ( not a very good idea for a high power setup ). Having said that there are many things that come into play i.e riding style, throttle control and how the speed controller is setup these can all effect the reliability of this type of setup.
 
Byte said:
Hmm ok.. I would need 2 freewheels, so it would cost 40 bucks + shipping to Luke + shipping to (me) the Netherlands. I think it's easier and cheaper to ask someone over here in the Netherlands to CNC 2 freewheels for me isn't it?
Click to expand...

you need to have it broached, a cnc mill can't cut internal slots in a freewheel AFAIK.

Byte said:
Oh and what do you guys think, do I really need a HeavyDuty Freewheel for a high-powered bike or would a cheap one like this one (http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=34&osCsid=7150d7eeecda1fad1eded45cd39cb1d0) be good enough to handle the power? (Using a Turnigy 80-100-B 130Kv Brushless Outrunner on 10S LiPo)
Click to expand...

some of the cheaper freewheels are hardened steel. the WI freewheels are stainless. you might be able to use a cheaper one, but you would need to soften the steel by annealing first.
 
hey, came across another possible ready made option for fitting freewheels, at a price. This one eliminates the potential weak link of the freehub.

fixedadapter500x500.jpg

fa3.jpg
fa4.jpg
fa5.JPG

NAHBS_2010_093.jpg


http://kimori.info/en/bike-parts/fixed-gear-adapter

See at 1:25 in the video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hBo_9nupHJg

Won't work on the SRAM DD of course, but should be fine with Shimano hubs etc

They also sell some nice Moulton looking bikes
 
good find...

It seems like an equivalent could be made for the dual drive though.
 
If I understand this correctly, the bottom cog fits over the splines of the freehub to prevent rotation,
and the dogs sticking out of it would engage (what I assume are) spanner wrench notches of the "normal" maybe bored out freewheel.

Thus, the normal freewheel is dependent to the holding power of the fixed cog?
 
Cool, I didn't understand it the first time, I must have learned something... 8)

pretty slick..

So, the freehub would isolate the pedals from the fixed cog like normal, and the freewheel would isolate the motor.

Certainly cheaper than two freewheels.
 
12p3phPMDC said:
Cool, I didn't understand it the first time, I must have learned something... 8)

pretty slick..

So, the freehub would isolate the pedals from the fixed cog like normal, and the freewheel would isolate the motor.

Certainly cheaper than two freewheels.
Click to expand...

But the motor will drive the peddles :(
 
12p3phPMDC said:
So, the freehub would isolate the pedals from the fixed cog like normal, and the freewheel would isolate the motor.
Click to expand...
No, you'd still need 2 freewheels on the driver, for dual independence, unless you have freewheeling cranks (as I did).

This method works with freewheels which have recessed removal slots and no neck, like this:
 

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  • Viz freewheel.jpg
    Viz freewheel.jpg
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Ah yes, thanks Gents...didn't think that through...the motor would drive the pedals unless you had a freewheeling crank.
 
12p3phPMDC said:
Ah yes, thanks Gents...didn't think that through...the motor would drive the pedals unless you had a freewheeling crank.
Click to expand...

Not if you used two freewheels. The cogs could simply be used as adapters, and the teeth could be cut off. Miles, if the recessed-type freewheels are used, can the cog/FW combo be narrow enough that two could fit on the splined hub? Did you just take a regular cog, and cut it so it has the two "tool" dogs?

The Kimori part is very cool as well, but I'm guessing not available except in Japan?

-- Gary
 
GGoodrum said:
Miles, if the recessed-type freewheels are used, can the cog/FW combo be narrow enough that two could fit on the splined hub? Did you just take a regular cog, and cut it so it has the two "tool" dogs?
Click to expand...
There's not space on the driver for 2 freewheels and 2 modified cogs, unfortunately... to fix the outer freewheel you'd have to make an adapter to fit the driver's internal (lock-ring) thread.

Yes, I milled away most of the cog's rim, to create the 2 dogs.

Broached ENO is the best solution. The above method was my first try at fixing a freewheel on a cassette driver.

GGoodrum said:
The Kimori part is very cool as well, but I'm guessing not available except in Japan?
Click to expand...
They're a clever design but the wheelbase is too short for me......... I'm not into wheelies.... :)
 
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