Controller mod

Short, what a cool site! Gives me lots of ideas :wink:
Thanks!

Glad to help. They are really cool people, and have great prices.

shortcircuit911 said:

ya those caps were monsters. The voltage dropped down to 53.9v which I thought was a lot but oh well. I was thinking of adding a 6v, but I don't know of a 66v charger, would I need to use a 72v? So dnmum you are the one who modded those controllers for jason huh? (The shop I work at is a dealer for him, and I asked him how he modded the controllers) I was trying to figure out how to cram all that stuff in there, and almost gave up. But, then I remembered that someone did it for jason, and that motivated me to keep trying lol.

Click to expand...

ShortCircuit,

You could use a meanwell S-350 or a pair fo them for rapid charging to 66v... you would need to adjust the current (shunt mod perhaps) and if using 2 of them I would either do the 48v and extend the voltage lower or... run them both at identical voltages and in parallel for up to 12A current.

This is a reasonable balance every now and then will work wonders.

Mike

Thanks for the tip I will keep that in mind.

Well I finally got all my parts and made the connectors. I opened parameter designer, put the settings in, had the controller plugged in, hit transmit, then the momentary switch and nothing happened. There was no progress in the bar under to the transmit button. I held the momentary switch for a minute straight, and nothing happened, just the "transmit guage" text was blinking. Has anyone else had this problem?

you need to set the correct COM port in the software when programming.

you can check what COM port the programmer is on.

-rightclick My Computer
-click Manage
-click device manager

then you can lookup the COM port in the tree on the right.

hope my explanation is clear? my english isn't the best

Niels

I think I had the correct port. When I had it on port 1 and 2 in the software it wouldn't let me start to transmit. But then when I changed it to com port 3 it let me push the transmit button with no pop up windows coming up. The only problem is that there was no progress. But I will try what you said, and hopefully figure this thing out. Thanks for the reply.

You need to install this driver if you haven't already:
http://www.prolific.com.tw/support/files//IO%20Cable/PL-2303/Drivers%20-%20Generic/Windows/allinone/PL2303_Prolific_DriverInstaller_v110.zip

1. You have to start up the 116 software first, then plugin the USB connector with the controller hooked in. Make sure there is no power plugged into the controller.
2. Then check the ports on the device manager and see what the USB TTL is on as neiles mentioned. IF its a higher port then the software has, then delete some of the ports in use or unplug whatever is on them.
3. Go back to the software and change to the port, load the .avs or .asv file I forget what extention it is. Ask lyen for the english 9 mosfet preset file, if he hasnt gave it to you already. Make sure you have the 9 mosfet controller type selected. EB9 something.
4. Once you have your settings changed to what you want, hit the transmit button and press the momentary swtich button right immediately after and hold it down till the little bar graph is done and it says completed in the box. Thats it! It will only take like 2 or 3 seconds. Then press the stop transmit button.

If you want to program it again, you need to unplug the USB connector and plug it back in again. Leave the software running. I found that it will only let you transmit the data 1 time per plug and unplug.

The first post here will tell you what all the settings do:
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=14807

If you have any questions let me know, I have programmed my controller about 10 times and figured almost everything.

I have installed the drivers, and still nothing. I can even find the device in device manager. Kingfish has helped me a lot over the past couple days with this, and we can't get it. He told me that I might have a bad usb to ttl converter. So I'm not really sure whats next. I suppose I will have to buy one off lyen. Here is a pic of my controller .

My bike.

Nice!!!

Have you tried a different computer? The desktop I had wasn't working very well, I think 1 out of 15 times it would program. Then one day it wouldn't program at all. So I got my laptop out and sure enough, the first try it programmed. Lyen told me some computers don't output enough power through the USB to be able to program correctly. I bought my cable from him.

Lyen told me some computers don't output enough power through the USB to be able to program correctly.

Click to expand...

That's not the problem. ShortCircuit911 can't get his PC to see the card once it's attached to the USB cable; the PlugNPlay wizard can't initialize and we can't add the device. It is possible the device may be dead, or it could be a hardward issue on the PC with the USB bus. I can't fix it without remoting in and ... I'd rather not for multiple reasons

If he takes it to Lyen then they can work to resolve the issues together; hands-on.

Hmm, now you made me think of something else to try:

The USB/TTL boards that I saw advertized had a SMT chip-LED. When he plugged the device in the board wouldn’t even light up; meaning that there was no power to the board. The only way to not have power is:

• A) Faulty USB cable (rare)
  B) Faulty USB Port (rare)
  C) Dead Device/Adapter PCB <-- possible
  D) Computer is OFF (noob)
  E) Or, PnP Service has not started <-- remotely possible

ShortCircuit911, can you try this…

Start|All Programs|Administrative Tools|Services
Scroll until you find “Plug and Play” and ensure that the service has started and that the Startup Type is set to Automatic. If the service was NOT started, then do so and try to plug the board in again. Otherwise we’re back to square-one.

By Spec...
USB ports must supply minimum power to initiate the device interface, though more power is when the hub exceeds 4 connections or the device has extra-heavy current demands - like a modem or wireless device. These tiny little USB/TTL boards should not pull anywhere close to that kind of current. Admittedly long USB cables are resistive, though I don't think this is his issue.

Voltage test:
If for some weird-arse reason his board does not have an LED then we could also test for voltage on the PCB between +V and Gnd pins. If that's dead then we go to the cable end and test it for voltage. If that's dead we test the port for voltage. If that's dead and the PnP Service has started without errors then I suggest we take the pc in for review/repair.

Well I went to admin tools, and the plug and play settings were fine.although my usb cale is like 12ft long there is still 4.83 v at the plug..I check the voltage on the pins of the chip and there was none..so I guess I have a bad chip..for future reference don't EVER buy from www.virtualvillage.com

Friend, for what it's worth: The unit I got had the silkscreen for the header pinout upsidedown! Fraacken cheap-arse crap is what we're getting :x

Give Lyen a try; I'll wager better success

Well I finally paid lyen for a usb to ttl adapter. I'm sure he will ship it soon, so hopefully I will have it this weekend. I also e-mailed virtual village, and they asked me to give them a description of what happened. They were also talking about me mailing it back, which I think is complete B.S but I guess we'll see what happens. I also fried another watt meter within an hour of installing it. On a lighter note I put more air in my tires and did a speed test, and hit 33.5 before I ran out of road. So maybe if I do another test hot off the charger with more road I can hit 35

Have a look about halve way down this page, I think you are having the same problem with the usb adaptor
its very easy to fix ( not that it was broken )
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=16707&start=15
I know it dosnt really matter now as you have ordered another.

I actually saw that yesterday, and made the bridge. So now my computer recognizes new hardware. However i still can't get it to pass the hyperterminal test. After i checked the comm port and changed it to 1 and opened hyperterminal it froze. Now when i open hyperterminal i cant type anything. has anyone had this problem?

You've looped the TX back to RX I assume?

Ya I did short the rx and tx

well i made some progress but not much. I got the usb to ttl from lyen which is really nice. I installed the drivers and did the loop test but failed. It was weird I was shorting tx and rx with a screw and i would rub the screw on the leads and it would display some weird charecters. Im not sure what is going on. Hopefully someone does.

Short the two pins together with a small diameter wire or an alligator clip. Don't short other wires, just Rx and Tx

I finally got my controller to program. Now the only thing I'm a bit confused with is lvc. Since I replaced my stock resistors with 2 430 ohm where should my lvc be? I'm running 60v of lead, and I have no clue where to set the lvc. Can anyone help?

Assuming 60V = 5 batteries, then about 50V would be "dead" for the pack. I'd put LVC at 11V per cell, or 55V, at minimum. But keep in mind that depending on the capacity of the batteries used, you could get more than enough sag to cut out during heavy acceleration once you get past maybe 3/4 full. Depends on what you ask of the batteries and how they're made/etc.