As bad as that looks, I can only begin to imagine what *you* would have looked like after that wreck if you'd been on a regular bike, unenclosed.... 
Your Creation's Before & After Pics
- Thread starter xyster
- Start date
dirk1965
100 µW
I'm actually very glad I was in the Go-One. Any other kind of bike might have cost me much more than the minor knee injury I suffered now. The bike actually took all the stress for me. My parents who didn't like the Go-One before, are all for it now (or almost...). I'm ordering a new one one of these days because I'm convinced there's no safer bike (and also because of all of the work I did electrifying the last one). The crashed bike will be repaired in time and I may sell it afterwards or else I'll give it to my son.
oldhaq
100 W
These are the latest additions to my stable.
I like these west coast chopper frames alot so I bought another. They are extremely strong and there's plenty of room for batteries, down low too.
They originally have 20" wheels, but I extended the rear dropouts with a couple of bits of 5mm plate and fitted a 24" motor (SannyKung 1000w GM/9C clone) at 48v.
Riding position was a little bit too far forward for my liking, so I fabricated a lay-back seatpost to put me where I wanted to be.
52T chainwheel and 16T freewheel slows the legs down enough to keep up comfortably.
Front Shimano Roller brake and rear drum brake. It handles great, really hugs the road turning at speed.
My most recent build isn't fully finished yet, though it's fully functional. It's a Triple G Choppermeister.
Again with this bike I've fitted a 24"motor (GM 1000w) where there was a 20" wheel before.
It's also now got a home brew lay-back seatpost and 127mm cranks, mainly because the BB is too close and too-directly-below the seat for my liking.
Front Promax disc brakes and a rear drum brake stop quite well.
I like these west coast chopper frames alot so I bought another. They are extremely strong and there's plenty of room for batteries, down low too.
They originally have 20" wheels, but I extended the rear dropouts with a couple of bits of 5mm plate and fitted a 24" motor (SannyKung 1000w GM/9C clone) at 48v.
Riding position was a little bit too far forward for my liking, so I fabricated a lay-back seatpost to put me where I wanted to be.
52T chainwheel and 16T freewheel slows the legs down enough to keep up comfortably.
Front Shimano Roller brake and rear drum brake. It handles great, really hugs the road turning at speed.
My most recent build isn't fully finished yet, though it's fully functional. It's a Triple G Choppermeister.
Again with this bike I've fitted a 24"motor (GM 1000w) where there was a 20" wheel before.
It's also now got a home brew lay-back seatpost and 127mm cranks, mainly because the BB is too close and too-directly-below the seat for my liking.
Front Promax disc brakes and a rear drum brake stop quite well.
To start off - I'm a road cyclist. I'm one of those spandex guys on racing bikes (I'm a respectable amateur racer). Only a few of you on this forum have built ebikes that can beat me in a drag race 0-30 or up a short steep hill. 26w/kg peak, that is. I have a HELL of a damn good time ripping it on my road bike, powering myself around, bombing down hills, etc.
But, since I love biking so much, and hate driving, and for many other realistic reasons, I wanted a bike I could commute on. Something that could get me around with only a little assistance required by me on hard sections of road, to get me places without spending my legs - saving them for the real road riding.
Below are my before and after pics of my 2nd ebike build, a sweet looking and riding Giant ATX rigid mtn bike from the '90s. It's something I can fully pedal, and weighs a decent 61lbs. If my batteries ever run too low, I can pedal it home without swearing too much. To me, I just really like the traditional mtn bike look to it. It's just my style.
I see improvements to come, but it rides pretty good for now.
But, since I love biking so much, and hate driving, and for many other realistic reasons, I wanted a bike I could commute on. Something that could get me around with only a little assistance required by me on hard sections of road, to get me places without spending my legs - saving them for the real road riding.
Below are my before and after pics of my 2nd ebike build, a sweet looking and riding Giant ATX rigid mtn bike from the '90s. It's something I can fully pedal, and weighs a decent 61lbs. If my batteries ever run too low, I can pedal it home without swearing too much. To me, I just really like the traditional mtn bike look to it. It's just my style.
I see improvements to come, but it rides pretty good for now.
Attachments
oldhaq
100 W
I've finally done something with the old huffy mtb that's been hanging from a roof truss in the shed for a couple of years. It's taken so long because I haven't been able to decide how to mount a battery pack to it, and I've been concentrating on the road going bikes. After taking it out for a bush bash and getting all muddy I wish I had done this earlier, I had the biggest ebike grin yet, and that was even before I got to the good stuff! Took me right back to my bmx racing days.
I know it looks a bit wierd, but that was the easiest way I could think of putting a battery box on it solidly. In the end though I'm pretty happy with it and the weight is evenly positioned with the battery sitting in the lower 2/3 of the box. The toolbox ($11 at Bunnings) contains a 48v10a headway pack and temporarily a 15 fet 35a controller running at 60a without its case, ie the fet mounting bar attached to front of toolbox using it as a heatsink, with a 72v 45a 12 fet Lyen edition on it's way to replace it programmed at 48v 70a. Hub motor is a sanny kung/GM higher-torque-version HBS48 1000w, it only maxes out at about 38kmh on 26" tyre but has plenty more grunt down at low rpm than their normally wound motors, which is ideal for how I will ride this bike. Spinning the rear wheel out of a muddy creek and doing donuts on a cheap ebike, who would'a thought? Rear shock is from my now returned-to-original and sold longtail, compression/rebound adjustable and new angle makes for a plush ride compared to before. The forks are absolute crap though and gotta go asap, deciding whether to weld on an 1 1/8 headtube or get some semi decent 1" screwtop forks. Seatpost is about 2" further back now.
Dirt-e-biking is now my favorite thing. A really great thing is the noiselessness, there's been a lot of complaints about ice dirtbikes in the areas I've been riding. No one even knew I was there.
update May 2010: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=235&p=272247#p272247
I know it looks a bit wierd, but that was the easiest way I could think of putting a battery box on it solidly. In the end though I'm pretty happy with it and the weight is evenly positioned with the battery sitting in the lower 2/3 of the box. The toolbox ($11 at Bunnings) contains a 48v10a headway pack and temporarily a 15 fet 35a controller running at 60a without its case, ie the fet mounting bar attached to front of toolbox using it as a heatsink, with a 72v 45a 12 fet Lyen edition on it's way to replace it programmed at 48v 70a. Hub motor is a sanny kung/GM higher-torque-version HBS48 1000w, it only maxes out at about 38kmh on 26" tyre but has plenty more grunt down at low rpm than their normally wound motors, which is ideal for how I will ride this bike. Spinning the rear wheel out of a muddy creek and doing donuts on a cheap ebike, who would'a thought? Rear shock is from my now returned-to-original and sold longtail, compression/rebound adjustable and new angle makes for a plush ride compared to before. The forks are absolute crap though and gotta go asap, deciding whether to weld on an 1 1/8 headtube or get some semi decent 1" screwtop forks. Seatpost is about 2" further back now.
Dirt-e-biking is now my favorite thing. A really great thing is the noiselessness, there's been a lot of complaints about ice dirtbikes in the areas I've been riding. No one even knew I was there.
update May 2010: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=235&p=272247#p272247
thewmatusmoloki
10 kW
I would have to say ..... that's a pretty slick setup there Rob.
looks like a lot of fun.
Hope it stays together. :wink:
Cheers,
Matt
looks like a lot of fun.
Hope it stays together. :wink:
Cheers,
Matt
AussieJester
1 TW
oldhaq said:
Sure as hell beats a roll of duct tape (often the preferred method of battery attachment by ES members :-S ) Top job
all up i would say, how about some video of you ripping it up on the trails!?! Not alot of trail action from the e-MTB
mob...
KiM
oldhaq
100 W
Cheers for the comments.
It's had some tests off ~ 2ft jumps and landing whilst seated, no cracks, creaks or tings!thewmatusmoloki said:
Be good to see some dirt-e bike videos on ES. I'll have to remember to take a camera along.AussieJester said:
Thud
1 MW
I thought I would put this build in this thread:
It is the design series of the I.C.E crusher LFP was going to pilot at the Death race in Tucson
I am definatly racing it 6-5-2010 in Carrothers OH. at a motored-bicycle race.
I will power it with 18s 3p (66 volts) & a 6500w turnigy & an e-crazyman controller sutibly modded to to release all the energy potential.
design objectives:
#1 superior cornering capability
#2 improved brakeing performance
I started with a 24" mnt. bike frame. I need to streach it a bit to get the riders center of mass more between the axels
this photo is taken after I have cut all the rusted cables & parts off
it's ok to mod the frame as it has a "Life time" warranty
next we Jig it up & measure the caster angle. hmmnn kinda slack at 28 deg. I will steepen it to 26ish & see where the trail come out at.
I chop the top tube so the frame will give a little, theres a come-along & a tommy bar to keep things straight heat the lower tube & crank to desired geometry.
Next we streach the rear triangle 4-1/2" to get the wheelbase out to 49"
along side my first build for compairison.
I still need to add some bracing & gussets.
& yes there is pedal clearance. I will put a tiny crank set in there to gain a little but this "bike" will only have pedals to make it a bike. I may put a detent to hold the pedals horizontal & add foot pegs back for head foward rider position.
Tire option atm looks like it will be Shinko 4 ply moped tires on 20" rims. I still have the option of 24" wheels if I want them.
I wanted to put a disc brake system off a CR125 but I have no room on the 20" skyways for caliper clearance. Need to look at some kart calipers & see if I can shoe horn something in (non issue in roundy round but on a road course braking is key)
I will modify this post over the spread of the build. adding & deleting photos as relavancy dictates.
I will consider any sugestions & welcome any comments.
It is the design series of the I.C.E crusher LFP was going to pilot at the Death race in Tucson
I am definatly racing it 6-5-2010 in Carrothers OH. at a motored-bicycle race.
I will power it with 18s 3p (66 volts) & a 6500w turnigy & an e-crazyman controller sutibly modded to to release all the energy potential.
design objectives:
#1 superior cornering capability
#2 improved brakeing performance
I started with a 24" mnt. bike frame. I need to streach it a bit to get the riders center of mass more between the axels
this photo is taken after I have cut all the rusted cables & parts off
it's ok to mod the frame as it has a "Life time" warranty
next we Jig it up & measure the caster angle. hmmnn kinda slack at 28 deg. I will steepen it to 26ish & see where the trail come out at.
I chop the top tube so the frame will give a little, theres a come-along & a tommy bar to keep things straight heat the lower tube & crank to desired geometry.
Next we streach the rear triangle 4-1/2" to get the wheelbase out to 49"
along side my first build for compairison.
I still need to add some bracing & gussets.
& yes there is pedal clearance. I will put a tiny crank set in there to gain a little but this "bike" will only have pedals to make it a bike. I may put a detent to hold the pedals horizontal & add foot pegs back for head foward rider position.
Tire option atm looks like it will be Shinko 4 ply moped tires on 20" rims. I still have the option of 24" wheels if I want them.
I wanted to put a disc brake system off a CR125 but I have no room on the 20" skyways for caliper clearance. Need to look at some kart calipers & see if I can shoe horn something in (non issue in roundy round but on a road course braking is key)
I will modify this post over the spread of the build. adding & deleting photos as relavancy dictates.
I will consider any sugestions & welcome any comments.
AussieJester
1 TW
HELL YES!!! Pleeeeease stick with 20in wheels Thud
it will look bad ass compared to 24in, MTBs with 20in
rims and 3in wide tires look the shit IMO. With the cranks, how about the
right crank vertical and the left at 45 degrees pointing forward Speedway
sliders have the long downward peg on the right and a lil motocross style peg
forward of the motor on the left for the feet up sideways business hehee...
You should do a full worklog in the non-frock motor section Thud so
you can leave all the pics rather than swapping them in and out!
I assume this will also get a Thud 2 speed dog box transmission? I WANT
I WANT I WANT hehe...
Best of luck anywayz buddy it will be a goer when your done the ICE crowd
wont see which way the Thudmiester goes when hes "absolutely sideways
on the high line where angels fear to tread"
KiM
it will look bad ass compared to 24in, MTBs with 20in
rims and 3in wide tires look the shit IMO. With the cranks, how about the
right crank vertical and the left at 45 degrees pointing forward Speedway
sliders have the long downward peg on the right and a lil motocross style peg
forward of the motor on the left for the feet up sideways business hehee...
You should do a full worklog in the non-frock motor section Thud so
you can leave all the pics rather than swapping them in and out!
I assume this will also get a Thud 2 speed dog box transmission? I WANT
I WANT I WANT hehe...
Best of luck anywayz buddy it will be a goer when your done the ICE crowd
wont see which way the Thudmiester goes when hes "absolutely sideways
on the high line where angels fear to tread"
KiM
Dreddydave
1 W
Hi all;
I've been a long-time lurker and finally transferred the photos from my phone to share with you all. Sorry for the links but when I posted them as images they came up huge.
The first e-bike I built was a simple 200watt hub drive with 2x7AH SLA batteries strapped to a rear carrier. I didn't keep photos of it before selling it to make this one:
http://imgur.com/DfRws.jpg
It's my daily-rider, a 400watt geared MY1018Z with a 36V 10A Goldenmotor LiFeP04 battery. I'm now working on an RC drive with a 22v LiPo 20AH battery that'll attach to the water bottle screws. The motor is running through the gearbox of a spare MY1018Z I had. It's still getting put together but should go pretty well
http://i.imgur.com/eSSom.jpg
http://imgur.com/xs9HZ.jpg
http://imgur.com/NOGqa.jpg
I've been a long-time lurker and finally transferred the photos from my phone to share with you all. Sorry for the links but when I posted them as images they came up huge.
The first e-bike I built was a simple 200watt hub drive with 2x7AH SLA batteries strapped to a rear carrier. I didn't keep photos of it before selling it to make this one:
http://imgur.com/DfRws.jpg
It's my daily-rider, a 400watt geared MY1018Z with a 36V 10A Goldenmotor LiFeP04 battery. I'm now working on an RC drive with a 22v LiPo 20AH battery that'll attach to the water bottle screws. The motor is running through the gearbox of a spare MY1018Z I had. It's still getting put together but should go pretty well
http://i.imgur.com/eSSom.jpg
http://imgur.com/xs9HZ.jpg
http://imgur.com/NOGqa.jpg
torker
100 kW
Thud, What amount of trail do you shoot for on an upright? I think I ended up at about 1 " on my te clone recumbent. Totally different animal of course. Mine was made with Murray and Huffy donors. Looks good !!
gwhy!
100 kW
This is my "fun" bike at the moment. And as It is rather clean and I have been playing around with the speed controller out in the sunshine I thought I would post up a picture of it, Sorry about the quality of the photos.
Its geared for around 25mph and I have pulled upto 5kw, It will climb anything you dare to point it at
update:
A bit more detail of drive system:
Its geared for around 25mph and I have pulled upto 5kw, It will climb anything you dare to point it at
update:
A bit more detail of drive system:
full-throttle
1 MW
Before:
After (still in progress) :
After (still in progress) :
Both of you guys did a nice job.
AussieJester
1 TW
I posted before and after pics many pages back, my bike has now changed and is finished
so though I would update these pages also....
First the before shots again-->
Finished shots-->
NB: No duct tape was harmed in the making of this bike (sorry DoctorBass )
Powered by Turnigy 80-130 HXT outrunner
44v 15ah Lithium Polymer
Frame is Powdercoated cobalt blue battery enclosure
is candy apple blue.
Range is ~40km with top speed (gear limited) 60km/hr
Shall be upping to 66v 15ah setup in coming weeks
The bike uses a Matt Shumaker (recumpence) reduction drive
battery management is handled by GGoodrum BMS products.
Cheers
KiM
so though I would update these pages also....
First the before shots again-->
Finished shots-->
NB: No duct tape was harmed in the making of this bike (sorry DoctorBass
)Powered by Turnigy 80-130 HXT outrunner
44v 15ah Lithium Polymer
Frame is Powdercoated cobalt blue battery enclosure
is candy apple blue.
Range is ~40km with top speed (gear limited) 60km/hr
Shall be upping to 66v 15ah setup in coming weeks
The bike uses a Matt Shumaker (recumpence) reduction drive
battery management is handled by GGoodrum BMS products.
Cheers
KiM
biohazardman
100 kW
Kim,
Is way to nice to be riding around on. Maybe just for special occasions? :wink: Gorgeous it is and have watched it form the start so I know there was allot of werq that went on to make it that way. Thanks for sharing it all with us.
Is way to nice to be riding around on. Maybe just for special occasions? :wink: Gorgeous it is and have watched it form the start so I know there was allot of werq that went on to make it that way. Thanks for sharing it all with us.
bioman made a good point.
Don't scratch it up until you get it featured in some mags.
Don't scratch it up until you get it featured in some mags.
Drunkskunk
100 GW
Damn good looking Bike, Kim. I want that fork!
Hell, I want that motor for my rat rod
Sweet Ride.
Hell, I want that motor for my rat rod
Sweet Ride.
AussieJester
1 TW
biohazardman said:
Thanks mate, the bike will be a 'daily driver' one of the advantages of making them yourself is you get to fix them up
when they get damaged... :wink:
nicobie- re: magazine i have actually contacted and forward some teaser shots to John Brain from Bike rod Kustom magazine about featuring the bike. Shall let you all know how that goes.
Cheers drunkskunk, the forks are available from ChopperUS about ~$US250 plus shipping (which is pricey to OZ)
Thx guys
KiM
Kingfish
100 MW
This is not my first eBike; that is another story altogether.
This is however my first eBike using a kit. In April 2009 I placed my awesome truck up on blocks and decided to go completely GREEN. The blocking issue with riding my bike to work was the daunting 500 ft hill climb straight up out of the valley; I tried it maybe a handful of times over the course of 17 years, but there just was not an easy route to take.
But in that warm month of April I resolved that I could put my touring bike on the bus, take it to the top of the hill - and then ride home. By October it became clear to me that I would need to go much farther than 5 miles to interface with clients and I began researching. In November I ordered up roughly $1500 worth of kit, batteries, and parts to initiate modification of an old 1991 Specialized Rockhopper with Rockshox. This was a bike I bought new in Austin Texas, where real men eat real dirt for breakfast. For the life of me I can’t imagine why Redmond Washington calls itself the “Biking capital of the Worldâ€Â; the city counsel who thought up that slogan obviously never went to Austin. And so it begins, the never-ending modification I call Prototype-0, P0 for short, the First.
Below are a couple of pictures that resemble what the original bike looked like; on the left is the basic unit (ignore the rear pack and handlebar ends), and on the right is a side view of the original-style Rockshox.
In the year that I bought mine I believe Rockshox had only been out one or two years, and adding this to my bike was about a $350 upgrade from stock. The whole unit out the door was (in my mind) about $850 for a good solid middle-of-the-pack mountain bike, and I definitely used it nearly every day that I lived in Texas. Moving to the Pacific Northwest in 1992 curtailed my riding severely because of the narrowness of the state and county byways, thus both my bikes rarely saw use. This all changed in 2009.
View of the Rockhopper in February 2010
Chilly Hilly version with the added trunk bag
My touring bike remains unmodified. However the Rockhopper has the following initial additions:
From eBikes.ca…
Modifications:
P0 will continue to see more testing as I perfect my knowledge and experience which shall be applied to my next ebike – P1 8)
This is however my first eBike using a kit. In April 2009 I placed my awesome truck up on blocks and decided to go completely GREEN. The blocking issue with riding my bike to work was the daunting 500 ft hill climb straight up out of the valley; I tried it maybe a handful of times over the course of 17 years, but there just was not an easy route to take.
But in that warm month of April I resolved that I could put my touring bike on the bus, take it to the top of the hill - and then ride home. By October it became clear to me that I would need to go much farther than 5 miles to interface with clients and I began researching. In November I ordered up roughly $1500 worth of kit, batteries, and parts to initiate modification of an old 1991 Specialized Rockhopper with Rockshox. This was a bike I bought new in Austin Texas, where real men eat real dirt for breakfast. For the life of me I can’t imagine why Redmond Washington calls itself the “Biking capital of the Worldâ€Â; the city counsel who thought up that slogan obviously never went to Austin. And so it begins, the never-ending modification I call Prototype-0, P0 for short, the First.
Below are a couple of pictures that resemble what the original bike looked like; on the left is the basic unit (ignore the rear pack and handlebar ends), and on the right is a side view of the original-style Rockshox.
In the year that I bought mine I believe Rockshox had only been out one or two years, and adding this to my bike was about a $350 upgrade from stock. The whole unit out the door was (in my mind) about $850 for a good solid middle-of-the-pack mountain bike, and I definitely used it nearly every day that I lived in Texas. Moving to the Pacific Northwest in 1992 curtailed my riding severely because of the narrowness of the state and county byways, thus both my bikes rarely saw use. This all changed in 2009.
View of the Rockhopper in February 2010
Chilly Hilly version with the added trunk bag
My touring bike remains unmodified. However the Rockhopper has the following initial additions:
From eBikes.ca…
- 9 Continent 2806 hub mounted to a 26†front rim (FWD)
- Brushless Motor Controller, 25A 6FET IRLB4030 Infineon
- Headlights and 12V source, 10Wx2
- CA-DP
- Triangle bag
- 36V/4A Charger for LiFePO4
- Continental Contact Reflex tyre with liner and thorn-proof tube
- Headlight mount
- Fenders
- Rear-Rack
- Bike Trunk bag
- Handlebar Mirror
- Blinky Red Taillights Qty-2
- Lots of wire and connectors.
Modifications:
- Controller: All Power and Phase traces upgraded to 10AWG wire. Three 63V caps replaced with 100V. Battery wires upgraded from 12AWG to 10AWG. Added Terminal Post for programming. Shorted BK to GND for Regen. Currently adding a three-way switch for Speed presets, and a momentary switch for Manual Cruise Control. Presently running 24A on Rated/Battery current, and 60A on Phase, with Throttle defaulting to 110%.
- De-rated Charger from >43V to 41.1V
- Stock weight: ~28 lbs. After mods: ~46lbs + 8/24 lbs for batteries depending on configuration.
- In the Commuting mode I can go 24-30 miles on a charge over a very hilly urban route that is a mix of street and asphalt bike trail, averaging 29-30 mph on a flat WOT and hot, and 24-26 mph up a steep incline.
- Touring distances vary widely depending on how hilly the route. A week ago I only got 70 miles out of the 10S9P configuration but then there was a lot of hill climbing and the Rated/Phase was set to 30/75 which made for some awesome off-the-line performance.
P0 will continue to see more testing as I perfect my knowledge and experience which shall be applied to my next ebike – P1 8)
02jze
1 kW
You have a playstation on your bike ?
dingoEsride
100 kW
Drunkskunk said:
I agree, makes some of the commuter bikes look a bit ordinary, but they all have a purpose and when you live in the big smog any way to lessen it is good
