Giant NRS/Mac hub/48v Headway now A123 build

Did you take the piece off shown in the third photo, there is a circlip behind that?
Undo the 6 screws and pull it off to access the circlip.
Cheers,
Matt.P.
 
No. I didn't want to take off the Stator (or undo all the wiring). I just wanted to get the Rotor off out of curiosity.

Also, in my experience, if you pump enough current through that the stock phase wires will melt, then you will damage the keyway that holds the freewheel to the axle.


At the very least I would use metal epoxy (Devon/Quiksteel/Selleys Knead It Steel) to bond the key in the keyway so it can't rock. Once it starts rocking it's all over.


And you will need better gears. The Nylon ones will strip. The soft metal ones will wear (and get incredibly noisy).
 
If Matt pumps enough juice through to melt 10AWG phase wires
he will have more to worry about than melted wires, i'm starting
a book on how long it takes Matt to marble the gears...I give
him a week tops :mrgreen:

When do you expect you will have the bike running Matt? this week
good for a ride for you? :D

KiM
 
Nice work Matt. What gauge were the stock phase wires ?
As Mark pointed out, a few other aspects of his motor let him down before heat or current became an issue so you'll no doubt encounter similar problems.
Bonding the keyway from the get go is good advice Mark. Is there anything else you'd recommend doing other than waiting for stronger gears? (I have one coming on the slow boat)
 
Hyena, I'm not sure about the stock wires, nothing written on them, pretty lite on though.
I decided to do some upgrades on the keys and the sun gear pins after reading Mark_A_W's problems with these two areas.
I had to pull the wires out of the axle and start again unfortunately.
To stop the keys from moving in the keyways I welded them at each end so the components could still slide onto the axle.
I had to grind off some of the weld shown in the photos, so the hub side plates could still side up near the keys.

hub1-1.jpg

hub3-1.jpg


The other weakness is the sun gear pins, they can work loose as they are only peened over on the end like a rivet. So I welded those too.

hub2-1.jpg


I also slotted the other end of the axle like the factory slot on the end.

hub4.jpg


Here is a photo showing the use of a cable tie to encourage the wires out of the inner hole on the axle.

hub5.jpg


I have not finished assembly yet. I will post more later.
Cheers,
Matt.P.
 
1000w said:
hub1-1.jpg

hub3-1.jpg

hub2-1.jpg

hub4.jpg

hub5.jpg
Click to expand...


Nice job Matt the welding of the key went very well, after talking to you yesterday
and having a think i agree with you on the JB Weld or Devcon not being the
ideal solution, good weld is also a better choice if doable.

Keep making it stronger Matt, the more you beef it up the less likely anything but the gears
will fail...in a week Matt i seen you ride you cant help yourself DO SKID DO SKID bet you
cant bounce off a kerb onto the road under full power then when you land spin the rear tire goooo on
give it a try MAtt you know you want too hehehe

Seriously best of luck with the rest of the build Matt...catch you during the week for a ride hopefully :)

KiM
 
While I think that will work.

I do think at some stage you will be grinding it out to fit a new one.


The key is quite soft, it's meant to be. But eventually it will deform.


Damn design needs a proper spline.

Very nice work though. Might send you my spare axle/keys for a bit of electric lovin' ;)


Get yourself some Green BMC gears and V3 freewheel. It looks the same as the V2 freewheel, but I am assured it is made of better materials. It certainly feels much better than a MAC freewheel.

And my green gears haven't failed yet...touch wood.

Mark
 
Ilia at ebikes-sf (he has for sale threads in for sale section).


A$132 landed. Pricey compared to the motor, but worth it so far.

A couple other Aussie guys will probably want some too, maybe you guys could do a group buy?
 
Mark_A_W said:
A$132 landed. Pricey compared to the motor, but worth it so far.
Click to expand...
How many amps are you running with this set up?
Cheers,
Matt.P.
 
40amps when I damaged the motor. Gee it was fun though :twisted:


Now it's at 30amps, and I go easy at startup.
 
Hi Mark,

I've been looking at an old NRS frame that I have and wondering about stick a triple clamp fork on it for a nice offroad electric - I'd love to see pics and get details on your fork to see what the geometry looks like. Cheers.
 
blitzwagen said:
Hi Mark,

I've been looking at an old NRS frame that I have and wondering about stick a triple clamp fork on it for a nice offroad electric - I'd love to see pics and get details on your fork to see what the geometry looks like. Cheers.
Click to expand...
Are you asking me "Matt.P." I have the NRS in this thread or "Mark_A_W"?
 
blitzwagen said:
I've been looking at an old NRS frame that I have and wondering about stick a triple clamp fork on it for a nice offroad electric - I'd love to see pics and get details on your fork to see what the geometry looks like. Cheers.
Click to expand...

The bike is a small, 16.5", and the forks are around 700mm from axle to the top. I don't know much about the forks, they are DNM brand with the JEEP name on them.
I got them off ebay, unused off a bike that was pulled down for parts, only $100AU delivered from USA, bargain I think.
I have a 24" wheel and tyre on the front and just a 26" rim on the back. The wood block at the back brings the bike up to where it will sit with a 24" X 2.5" on the rear.
I have not laced up the hub and 24" rim for the rear yet.
Here are some photos.

nrs10.jpg

nrs9.jpg

nrs13.jpg

nrs12.jpg

nrs11.jpg


Hope this helps blitzwagen.
Cheers,
Matt.
 
Lovin the 24's nearly as much as 20in rims with 3inx20in tires on them.

Are you keping the frame stock colour Matt or will this be taken to the powdercoaters, IIRC it was in pretty good shape when I saw it... I would
still recommend blue powdercoat by "your powdercoat guy" its a nice colour :mrgreen:

KiM

p.s STOP! pinching parts off the cruiser! rip into the Jaffa bike for parts :lol:
I noticed the front wheel don't thinkz i didn't there will be nothing left of the poor cruiser
 
Yeah those forks were a bargain, I wish I could get a set of triple clamps for that price! Actually this whole build is coming together for a really low price and should be the goods
 
I really need to get myself some 24" rims for my bike but I need to find a way to get a disk onto the 500W front motor first, that needs to be done regardless, 68kph and rim brakes on the front is not ideal....

That 24" front definitely looks the business on there but it might hurt your max speed a little. Be very interested to see what it produces and it should give you good acceleration.
 
Excellent looking bike thus far. Those DNM forks looks very interesting indeed - especially the adjustable bridge that could possibly even accommodate a 29" wheel ! Thanks for the pics, the geometry and stance look perfect, it's spurred me into using my NRS frame as a basis for my next build.
 
I did a little bit of a paint job on the Mac hub to match the red front hub.
Then I laced the hub and the rear rim last night.
There is a bit of an angle between the spokes and the nipples, hopefully all is well.
Cheers,
Matt.P.

hub6.jpg
 
Ooo....it will go much faster now!
 
Umm....3 cross is a bit much don't you think?

1 cross is more than enough. The angles are similar to a normal wheel with 3 cross.


You are going to break your nipples off!
 
Yeah that's some extreme lacing there Matty boy! Did you have to make do with some spokes for a larger rim ? :lol:
Speaking of which does anyone have a cheap source for bare rims in Australia ?
I have a couple of new 26" Alex DM24's but I'm looking for a wide 24" one. My MAC arrived too today so as soon as my broken arms heal up I'll be joining the rest of the Aussies taking over the forums with their MAC builds :)
 
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