12 x 4110 MOSFET Extreme Modder Controller LYEN Edition $129

[Lyen]

These are newly hand assembled Infineon 12 FET controllers I am selling, they are new and never used. This is the controller of choice picked by most skilled ES members. Most of the buyers on ES preferred a custom made version for use with their added hall sensors Turnigy and Aston RC motors. The allowed disclosed member names are AussieJester, Hyena, Tmaster, Matt, and others. In fact I have sold most of them before I even have got the chance to advertise. Part of the reason is because the 12 FET is originally a special request item from a member. But word of mouths are making it becomes more popular so I had to make a few extra to meet the demand. The un-advertise 12 FET model EC-124110 12 FET controllers at $129. This controller is meant for easy modification without replacing the MOSFETs to IRFB4110 since it is already equipped. I have programmed the current draw at 45A just for broader commuters but you can easily programming with more current.

The controller is like a wolf in sheep's skin because it is under tuned in order to optimize for long range. There are lots of potential and features you can unveil and twist as you go. You can program functions such as enable power regeneration, regenerate braking, pulse width modulation, low voltage cut-off, interface with a Cycle Analyst, and others. You may also add an USB to TTL adapter and connect to the computer for tuning. (Electronics knowledge is required to unleash the potential however)

One unique feature of this controller is that it has an additional speed sensor circuitry built-in with an extra blue wire for output. It is to be used with the scooter style electric bike and electric scooters that have a speedometer in the dashboard. As of April 13th, 2010 the speed sensor wire has been embedded and integrated with the green wire on the CA connector since they both can share the same function now. More practical and less confusion as suggested by previous buyers.

If you look carefully in the photos, you will notice this version also uses lock washers to secure the FETs internally and the heat transfer bar outside to place tension against a nut after tightening. It is also to help prevent the nut from loosening. The FETs will get overheated and damaged when detached from the heat-sink which used to be the case from the previous designs.

* For the extremists, this controller is meant for for easy modification without replacing the MOSFETs to IRFB4110 since it is already equipped. You may double and possibly triple the current output to make it a mighty wonder by adding braids wires (https://www.radioshack.com/products/des ... 5717857861), and add solders to beef up the circuit board traces and shunt.
However, if you are going to use a 9C (Nine Continent) motor, It is recommended to maximize the current output at 65A due to the thinner gauge wires being used with the hub motor. There is a potential that any current & voltage combination higher than the current 72V @ 65A will melt the phase wires in the hub motor and cause potential damage.

The size for the 12 FET controller is as follow. The end to end is 180mm with the mounting plate. Case end to end is 154mm with screws sticking out on each side. The height & width is same as the 18 FET one at 87 x 45mm.

Below is the specification:
Model: EC-124110-LYEN EDITION
Start immediate controller
Chipset: XCKJ8B116A (same chipset being used as in the 18 FET controller)
Circuit board version: EB812XC-A-B
12 x genuine IRFB 4110 MOSFET N-CH 100V (tested up to 110V before damage) for more information about the FET, click the link below:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSea ... 4110PBF-ND)
72V battery optimized (for higher or lower voltage & current such as 24V-100V, you may need to change the resistor network to avoid damage to the LM317 linear voltage regulator)
45A is the current rate (for higher current, you may need to beef up the trace, shunt, and reprogram it via the software)
Low voltage cut-off: 62.5v
Battery and motor phase wires gauge size: 12AWG (High voltage capable wires equipped)
Dimension: 6.2" x 3.4" x 1.75" (155mm x 87mm x 45mm) plus mount extensions
Total weight: 515 gram

I have only 85 made since I am busy working on my other ebike projects. My intention for selling at such low price is to share the fun with other ES forum members instead of making them jealous. I finally understand why Methods mentioned the cost of labor is steep after all this and I have to agree with him from now on. These controllers are not generic controllers. I have every single one serialized. Quantity is limited, buy it now and upgrade later once your piggy bank is filled up if needed.

$129 USD free ground shipping in the United States & Canada. For other locations, please PM or email me at LYEN@HOTMAIL.COM. I accept PayPal, cash or money order. The controllers will be shipped out from me in San Francisco, California, USA. I will provide a tracking number and ship it out as soon as I have received the fund.

For only $10 more, I can include the following:
1. CA connector
2. Regenerative enable/disable (Enabled simply by connect the wires together without the need to open the case)
3. USB-TTL 5 pin connector (for use with the USB-TTL adapter that is sold separate)

I also have the USB-TTL adapter for adjust and alter the controller settings on your computer. It has the extra 5 pin plug and a "SEND" button. It is also compatible with Windows XP/Vista/7/8/10 32/64 bit operating system (real 32/64bit drivers). $15 with purchase, $20 if purchased separately.

You may click on the PayPal Buy It Now link below. For accessories, please send money via PayPal or send me a private message for the total price. Thanks!

https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?c ... Y2YNCWHLXG

If you are not satisfy with the results or if it is too fast for you, you may send it back to me within 30 days in an unmodified condition.

Update: December 1st, 2018 > I can adjust the controller for 24V, 33V, 36V, 48V, 60V, 66V, 72V, 84V, 96V and other battery settings upon request.


As for the maximum testified and successful current. Below are the buyers that can tell you the truth.

Sent: Tue Mar 30, 2010 6:55 pm
by cord
Lyen,
I just wanted to let you know that I soldered the shunt and took the bike out for a
spin with the battery at 96v. I was seeing 85A during acceleration and my peak amps read 147A! This was on a stand alone CA. The controller wasn't even warm, but the 9C was! I promise I'll try not to blow up your controller, thanks again!
-Cord

Sent: Tue Mar 30, 2010 9:54 am
by TMaster
Hey Lyen Lyen! Controller is working excellent! I was thinking of looping the Regen loop wire onto a swtich, so I could manually turn the regen off and on, on the bike. What EBSlimvoltage should it be set at for a 72.6V pack? ALso I have my LVC at 52v. Let me know thanks man! The BIKE IS AWESOME!!! I passed a truck yesterday, and I had a nice tail wind and got up to 44mph on the strait. LOL. 95 amps.

Also, please see the review and technical upgraded detail information from TMaster below:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... =2&t=17680
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... =4&t=17679



Additional accessories (prices are reflected with controller purchase only. Please contact if you are interested to buy without controller):
$15 throttle (full/half/thumb) with mated left rubber grip (very good quality) (ebikekit retails @ $36)
$19 cruise control (manually installation required)
$15 three way speed switch (manually installation required)
$15 PAS - Pedal Assist System add-on (manually installation required)
$15 electric brake levers a pair
$29 motor/controller hall/phase/throttle tester

[Ypedal]

Alrighty.... i'll have one of those !

[Hyena]

Yep another testimony from me, with heavily upgraded traces and a slightly modded shunt I saw peaks of 125 A bumping my output to 10kw!
The good thing is it's easy to then back it off in the software, if you have no self control and need to go more than 10km on a charge

[mdd0127]

I got mine last week! I've been to busy to do anything with it but I can't wait. My little motor looks scared sitting next to it. It looks awesome. The packaging was also first rate. Thanks so much!

I'll post more when I get time to play.

[SkyCaptain]

Hi.

Has anyone managed to get this controller to work on a goldenmotor hub?

I have the controller here, and just cant seem to get it running right with my goldenmotor hub.

I have tried all of the phase wire combinations, and tried swapping the hall wires around.

The best combination I can find, the motor runs smooth/sounds okay, but has NO torque at all.
The other combinations motor spins backwards, or doesnt move, or makes strange noises.

Please help, I have spent a few days now tring to get it to work.

Thanks.

[Lyen]

Hi.

Has anyone managed to get this controller to work on a goldenmotor hub?

I have the controller here, and just cant seem to get it running right with my goldenmotor hub.

I have tried all of the phase wire combinations, and tried swapping the hall wires around.

The best combination I can find, the motor runs smooth/sounds okay, but has NO torque at all.
The other combinations motor spins backwards, or doesnt move, or makes strange noises.

Please help, I have spent a few days now tring to get it to work.

Thanks.

Hi Andrew!

I am sorry to hear that you are having difficulties to get the hall and phase wires to match up. Please resend a detail photo of your existing Goldenmotor controller to narrow down the phase and hall sequence. The last picture that you took was out of focus and therefore I cannot read the labels out of the circuit board.

You may reference to this thread that has mentioned the "The colors on the motor side of the phase is different on the blue and yellow cause the motor is golden motor. ". So the phase sequence should be blue green yellow on the motor side to yellow green blue on the controller side.
Please see below:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... or#p243986

I appreciate if anyone here can make out the wiring color sequence from the out of focus pictures that SkyCaptain sent fro his Goldenmotor controller below:


Please also request the hall sensor/phase wire sequence from the Goldenmotor forum below:
http://goldenmotor.com/SMF/index.php?PH ... 1755f8410&

I the meantime, I will continue to troubleshoot the issue with you via email. I appreciate your time and patient.

Best Regards,
Edward Lyen

[Hyena]

You need to switch the blue and yellow phase wires for the GM hubs.

So

Green - Green
Blue - Yellow
Yellow - Blue

I can't remember the hall wiring, I suspect it may be the same but that narrows it down alot for you. Mine is soldered and headshrinked so I can't check but thats definitely the right phase combo for Lyen's 12 fet and a GM hub.

[Lyen]

You need to switch the blue and yellow phase wires for the GM hubs.

So

Green - Green
Blue - Yellow
Yellow - Blue

I can't remember the hall wiring, I suspect it may be the same but that narrows it down alot for you. Mine is soldered and headshrinked so I can't check but thats definitely the right phase combo for Lyen's 12 fet and a GM hub.

Hyena, thank you very much for the info. Hopefully it does help him who is also resides in Australia. I appreciate it.

Cheers!
Lyen

[TMaster]

Im using this controller and a GM replica, and I have the Green and yellow switched on the phase wires and the halls.

[Arlo1]

Sweet!

[olaf-lampe]

Hi Lyen, master of MOSFets
I was looking for 4110 on the bay and found some very cheap ones from Hong Kong. There are rumors of faked chips going round.
Do you know how to identify the good ones?

Thx
Olaf

[Arlo1]

Hi Lyen, master of MOSFets
I was looking for 4110 on the bay and found some very cheap ones from Hong Kong. There are rumors of faked chips going round.
Do you know how to identify the good ones?

Thx
Olaf

Methods has it posted someware but I think its the color of the metal on the back the coper ones are the good ones I THINK?

[MrKang]

Hi Lyen, master of MOSFets
I was looking for 4110 on the bay and found some very cheap ones from Hong Kong. There are rumors of faked chips going round.
Do you know how to identify the good ones?

Thx
Olaf

Methods has it posted someware but I think its the color of the metal on the back the coper ones are the good ones I THINK?

Hi arlo,
These ones are the originals. i just orderedthem for my broken controller.
http://cgi.ebay.nl/5x-MOSFET-IRFB4110-1 ... 3357431034

[Lyen]

Here is one of the best thread to read regarding counterfeit MOSFET from Methods. He is also one of the person who has really helped me a lot in the past.

Detecting Counterfeit 4110 Mosfets:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... ounterfeit

Lyen

[Ypedal]

Yesterday mailman delivered this !!

Ouch !!!

[Ypedal]

But !!! the Lyen packaging prevails !

[Ypedal]

[Ypedal]

Fancy !

[Ypedal]

Thanks Man !!!!..

Great to see proper labeling !

[AussieJester]

Testament to Mr Lyens packing YPedalz MaN, he had 7 foot of bubble wrap in the consignment he sent me, and a bucket load of foam noodles, was only two 12 fet controllers in the box haha

KiM

[MrKang]

I received my LYEN controller and have some questions about the programming software.
i downloaded the parameter setup and i see 2 programs. the 116 and the 8 version
Which one do i have to use ?

[Lyen]

I received my LYEN controller and have some questions about the programming software.
i downloaded the parameter setup and i see 2 programs. the 116 and the 8 version
Which one do i have to use ?

It is the 116 version. PM you the info. Thanks for asking!

Regards,
Lyen

[sandman]

Lyen

I am connecting the LVC wires from Gary/Fechter's BMS to the throttle signal and ground. Is there a satisfactory limiting resistor inside your 12 fet and 9 fet controller, or should I put a 1K resistor on the controller side of the connection?

Also, if I set up my Cycle Analyst for current control as shown on page 19 of the Vers 2.2 manual, do I need to make any changes to the aforementioned LVC - resistor connection. They are both in the same throttle signal wire.

Sandman

[Lyen]

Lyen

I am connecting the LVC wires from Gary/Fechter's BMS to the throttle signal and ground. Is there a satisfactory limiting resistor inside your 12 fet and 9 fet controller, or should I put a 1K resistor on the controller side of the connection?

Also, if I set up my Cycle Analyst for current control as shown on page 19 of the Vers 2.2 manual, do I need to make any changes to the aforementioned LVC - resistor connection. They are both in the same throttle signal wire.

Sandman

Hi Sandman!

Thanks for your interest in the controller! Although there are already resistors build-it to protect the regulator, it would be best to place the addition 1K resistor between the BMS & controller to play safe due to designs.

As for the Cycle Analyst, the controller does works straight with the Cycle Analyst direct plug-in version without adding the 1K resistor to the aforementioned LVC - resistor connection.

Regards,
Lyen

[auraslip]

What is shipping time like? My controller burned up, and I am left stranded.

I am willing to pay for express shipping. Are you in the states?