Mark_A_W's DH Team/MAC Shanghai/64v Headway build

There is a resistor you can adjust the value of to delay that instant short circuit protection from kicking in in non-short circuit events. :)
 
Where Where???

Which one?

I was also wondering if playing with Phase Current, or Block Time, or some parameter might help.
 
Mark_A_W said:
Where Where???

Which one?

I was also wondering if playing with Phase Current, or Block Time, or some one parameter might help.


http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=16910&start=0&hilit=6+FET
 
liveforphysics said:
There is a resistor you can adjust the value of to delay that instant short circuit protection from kicking in in non-short circuit events. :)

Dang Luke is there anything you don't know when it comes to controllers and motors!?! I seriously
wish ihad half yor knowledge sometimes.

Good to hear the bike i up and running again Mark. Seeing this is a serious commuter bike
and as such it is required to be reliable and not crazy fast, are you going to maybe
build a totally outrageouss, pointless& over the top bush basher you don't have to worry about breaking?
May i suggest an rc motored downhill setup with independent manual and powered drivetrains :mrgreen:

Something along these lines to 'test the waters' of a non frock hig powered setup?

[youtube]_wK0YxKIHLo[/youtube]
FYI: this is the same motor many have told me that is extremely loud

All the best getting the controller issue sorted anywayz Mark, seems a number
of members both frock users and non frock users are having issues with controllers
of late... Luke...howz that 'mega controller' you and Jeremy were nutting out coming along mate?

KiM
 
Ok, thanks, I've read it.

It says I need to parallel C20 with a 1k resistor. But it's for a 6 FET Infineon, I need to confirm that C20 is the same C20.
 
AussieJester said:
Dang Luke is there anything you don't know when it comes to controllers and motors!?! I seriously
wish ihad half yor knowledge sometimes.

Yes... A HUGE thing I don't know! How the h*ll to make a BLDC controller survive at +1Kila-Amp phase currents. Inductive problems do NOT scale up well... :(
 
Mark_A_W said:
Ok, thanks, I've read it.

It says I need to parallel C20 with a 1k resistor. But it's for a 6 FET Infineon, I need to confirm that C20 is the same C20.

Hi Mark,
I have used this mod successfully on both 6 and 12 FET infineons.

Looking at an 18 FET (EB218-A-3), the circuitry looks the same in this area as the other two, C20 is situated in the centre of the pcb adjacent to QF1.
1K resistor across C20 should work ok.

Burtie
 
Thanks Burtie.

Here is a pic from my old 18 FET soft start controller (same PCB as my current one).

C20 is indeed in the middle, right next to the microprocessor.

Looks like I know what to try.


Thanks heaps guys

Mark
 

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Your controller looks to have a different pcb to the (newer) one I have here, but I guess the protection circuitry may be very similar.
 
Burtie, on your pcb's, is C20 in a similar place relative to the microcontroller?

Does it connect to one pin on the mcu, and the other end to ground?
 
The controllers I have all use the newer 116 processor which has pins on all 4 sides and match the circuit shown in the pdf here:

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=16910&hilit=6+FET&start=30#p252810

The PCB look similar in many ways, but I cannot see the transistor QF1 in your photo, so the protection circuit may be different.

I dont have a circuit diagram for the 846 based board like yours appears to be.
You may find that C20 is just a power supply decoupling cap on your version of the 846 controller, so the resistor mod will not help, but it probably won't do any harm to just try it and see.
 
Burtie said:
The controllers I have all use the newer 116 processor which has pins on all 4 sides and match the circuit shown in the pdf here:

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=16910&hilit=6+FET&start=30#p252810

The PCB look similar in many ways, but I cannot see the transistor QF1 in your photo, so the protection circuit may be different.

I dont have a circuit diagram for the 846 based board like yours appears to be.
You may find that C20 is just a power supply decoupling cap on your version of the 846 controller, so the resistor mod will not help, but it probably won't do any harm to just try it and see.


Arrg, that part of the circuit is completely different for the 846 controller.


Full-throttle had a quick look, but he couldn't match it. This controller possibly has an op-amp instead of QF1...but we don't have a diagram for the EB818XC-A-S2 pcb.

Mark
 
Mark- Follow the trace from the shunt, and just sketch up what they go and what they tie into on the pathway to the op-amp and/or u-controller etc. Then we can see the circuit and let you know which parts to tweak.
 
I'll try :)
 
Mark_A_W said:

This board is just 2 sided right? You're a smart guy with skills, you can trace it. :) just takes a little patience, and grinding the probe tips on a multi-meter to needle sharp points helps as well for double checking things. You can just poke right into the trace that way anywhere you want to check things.
 
Ok, I haven't had a chance to trace the circuit, as Full-throttle and have been playing with forks.


I now have his old 2002 Marzocchi Bomber Junior T Pro's, with 70mm longer travel than my previous 2000 Junior T's, and speed sensitive compression damping (which I think makes them make an occasional clunk sound - it appears to be common from my googling, and I've just spent an hour reverse engineering them in my head and I think I understand why). They are very nice and plush.

Now I can hit those gutters even harder :twisted:


But I will have to add a mudguard (fender for you yankees). I was riding home in the rain tonight at 50-60km/h and this huge spray comes off the front wheel, and gets blown straight back into my face. My face was covered in mud and filth when I got home :( Pity they ruin the looks of the bike, but they are essential...
 

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Mark_A_W said:
Arrg, that part of the circuit is completely different for the 846 controller.

There's no secondary current sense (digital input, interrupt.. whatever you call it) in the old style Infineon XC846 controller. It does exist on the newer 116-type controllers.

Edit: Try adding a cap in series with the one after R44 to ground. Double it and see if it helps.
 
Just a shameless bump....I mean update:

- Couple of thousand k's now, BMC gears are still holding up

- Had another failed tab weld on the headway pack, which killed another BMS...that's two now.

- So now I'm running without a BMS, which means some of the cells get cooked (over 4v) when charging - but I don't care. I have a bunch of rescued headway cells and I'm madly testing them, before I make a 24s pack. And the original 16 cells in my current pack are getting very sad, I'm lucky to get 7.5 Ah out of them now.


I haven't broken anything on this bike yet, touch wood :p
 
Glad to hear it! My brothers bike is still doing well with the same motor, but with the insides being the steel Lyen gear and all the components on the shaft carefully locktited together and the key fit VERY tightly to not let any "jiggling" occur. He off roads it and everything @ 40A. Good little motors if "blueprinted a bit!
 
Another day another failure...

After getting the freewheel welded solid after the BMC V3 freewheel failed....

The keyway gave out last night just as I left work. A very slow ride home - I can keep the bike at 22-25kmh most of the time, but it's hard work (which sure won't hurt me..).


I'll get the freewheel welded to the axle at work on Monday. That'll fix it good.
 
Wow, so you ate up the replaceable keyway?

Is it like, metal dust in your motor now? :p

I have noticed that when i switch from 10S lipo to 15S lipo ( 56v nominal ), the keyway takes a real beating whenever i engage the throttle.

I also get a ringing/oscillating/vibrating sound from the motor at 15S. I assume it is the nylon gears screaming for mercy.
At 2300-2600 watts, the motor itself doesn't even seem to get hot, at least on the outside.

I can't help wonder how much power we can shove down these things' throats if the gears / clutch were not an issue.
 
So, Could you tell how many kilometers and many cycles on this battery pack you have? Thats 10ah nominali and ypu can get only 7,5ah? Teoreticli its mean 75% of use of this battery and it is more then 2000 full cycles... Ask because whant to buy headways too but not sure about long life quality of this stuff.
Regards Mike,
P.S. Wery nice build:)
 
Pack is ~3 years old, had a hard life (sits at 26 amps constant now).

I dunno how many cycles, I ride about 3 days per week, charge twice per day....so maybe 900 charge cycles. Well over 10,000k's.


The specs on life are bullshit. But these are the very first generation, paper wrapped headway cells.
 
It's just got a close fitting black mudguard hot glued to the fork arch, right on the wheel.

Looks ok, it's the back one that looks a bit strange.
 
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