grindz145
1 MW
liveforphysics said:
Haha.... :lol: I grind my teeth on some of these terms too....
Say what you will I still love my Anderson connectors. They make everything so easy with cheap tools and they're fairly robust electrically.
Wiring/Connecting/Terminating Materials Thread.
- Thread starter The Mighty Volt
- Start date
Haha.... :lol: I grind my teeth on some of these terms too....
Say what you will I still love my Anderson connectors. They make everything so easy with cheap tools and they're fairly robust electrically.
lifepo4ever
10 kW
it still important to use bigger wire and bigger connector to avoid heat but why people using bigger speaker wire when they want a better sound quality ? and why we using
6gauge wire to boosting car instead of 12 gauge because you don't have the good amount of current to start the car i still don't understand the theory of luke ''Fortunately, the "current efficiency" of every connector is 100%. , one day i will be more intelligent
6gauge wire to boosting car instead of 12 gauge because you don't have the good amount of current to start the car i still don't understand the theory of luke ''Fortunately, the "current efficiency" of every connector is 100%. , one day i will be more intelligent
Gordo
100 kW
I can assure you it is not your intelligence that is being poked at, it is your command of Henglish. Quality audio of 0-20Khz is a totally different problem than DC jump starting a car, which is different again from low R at a connector. Don't confuse the I^2R of a connector with that of 12 feet of wire.lifepo4ever said:it still important to use bigger wire and bigger connector to avoid heat but why people using bigger speaker wire when they want a better sound quality ? and why we using
6gauge wire to boosting car instead of 12 gauge because you don't have the good amount of current to start the car i still don't understand the theory of luke ''Fortunately, the "current efficiency" of every connector is 100%. , one day i will be more intelligent
And by the way, car booster cable losses are most often right at the crimp to the clamps or because of the shitty plating on steel clamps.
Your picture of the babe on the beach speaks volumes. TOO much thinking with the little head? :lol:
Not that LFP doesn't have the same problem.
shorza
10 kW
The Mighty Volt said:
Thanks so much for your help.
The battery is from Conhismotor and is a LiFePo4 48v 10ah in an aluminium case.
The controller is a 12 FET Lyen controller, that he said he would match up to my battery/motor.
I noticed the (massive) difference in gauge in the phase wires between my motor and the lyen controller, and thought it could be a problem.
lifepo4ever
10 kW
Gordo said:I can assure you it is not your intelligence that is being poked at, it is your command of Henglish. Quality audio of 0-20Khz is a totally different problem than DC jump starting a car, which is different again from low R at a connector. Don't confuse the I^2R of a connector with that of 12 feet of wire.lifepo4ever said:it still important to use bigger wire and bigger connector to avoid heat but why people using bigger speaker wire when they want a better sound quality ? and why we using
6gauge wire to boosting car instead of 12 gauge because you don't have the good amount of current to start the car i still don't understand the theory of luke ''Fortunately, the "current efficiency" of every connector is 100%. , one day i will be more intelligent
And by the way, car booster cable losses are most often right at the crimp to the clamps or because of the shitty plating on steel clamps.
Your picture of the babe on the beach speaks volumes. TOO much thinking with the little head? :lol:
Not that LFP doesn't have the same problem.
I can live with out my little head :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: et je parle en anglais comme je peut :lol: :lol:
and whatt that mean lfp ''look for partner'' :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Alan B
100 GW
I received the famous 20/130 watt TENMA soldering pencil, and some of the 4mm Turnigy battery type bullets with 2 terminal telescoping covers.
The soldering pencil looks good. Quality is impressive for $6. In my first use with #10 wire and 4mm bullets it did the job. Not as fast or easily as I expected. I'll hold judgement until I get more experience with it.
On the 4mm Turnigy bullets. I'm not impressed with the wimpy little spring contacts. Yes there are a few in parallel, but they don't have much current carrying cross section. We'll see how they do.
On the two pin bodies, how does one get the pins into the body? They don't want to push in from the back, and the hole is too small to take 10 gauge wire insulation through to solder them beyond and pull back. The 4mm terminals will accept 4mm wire, which is more copper than #10, so the fit is not great. Not sure yet how to make them work. I'm sure someone else on here can tell us how the insulator body should be installed.
On the whole, I have no idea why folks want to use soldered bullet connectors. It is absolutely a pain compared to crimping a proper connector with a good crimper. No wonder I haven't soldered a single Anderson since I got a good quality crimper. It has been so many years I forgot how not fun soldering them was. I jumped at the chance to buy a good Anderson crimper for only $50 after soldering them for years! These bullets have no decent mechanical grip on the wire. Their solder cup is very shallow. Solder wants to wick up the wire making it stiff. It takes time to heat them up. It is tricky to get a nice joint. It takes time to wait for them to cool. What a royal pain.
Bah humbullets!
The soldering pencil looks good. Quality is impressive for $6. In my first use with #10 wire and 4mm bullets it did the job. Not as fast or easily as I expected. I'll hold judgement until I get more experience with it.
On the 4mm Turnigy bullets. I'm not impressed with the wimpy little spring contacts. Yes there are a few in parallel, but they don't have much current carrying cross section. We'll see how they do.
On the two pin bodies, how does one get the pins into the body? They don't want to push in from the back, and the hole is too small to take 10 gauge wire insulation through to solder them beyond and pull back. The 4mm terminals will accept 4mm wire, which is more copper than #10, so the fit is not great. Not sure yet how to make them work. I'm sure someone else on here can tell us how the insulator body should be installed.
On the whole, I have no idea why folks want to use soldered bullet connectors. It is absolutely a pain compared to crimping a proper connector with a good crimper. No wonder I haven't soldered a single Anderson since I got a good quality crimper. It has been so many years I forgot how not fun soldering them was. I jumped at the chance to buy a good Anderson crimper for only $50 after soldering them for years! These bullets have no decent mechanical grip on the wire. Their solder cup is very shallow. Solder wants to wick up the wire making it stiff. It takes time to heat them up. It is tricky to get a nice joint. It takes time to wait for them to cool. What a royal pain.
Bah humbullets!
The Mighty Volt
1 MW
shorza said:
No problem.
Your battery is probably good for 500-750w, with Amps at 10A to 20A. Those small wires should be ok for that sort of current.
Do you know what the C Rating of the cells in the battery are?
Lyen uses bigger wires as people use his controller for much bigger projects, so he makes sure the wire is bigger.
But this won't be a problem for you.
deVries
100 kW
It's strange that the RC chargers come with 4mm bullets for the DC output/input, but this may be that the distance of wire used is very short. Even my high 20 amp RC charger uses 4mm bullets.Alan B said:
From Hobby King I buy the 5.5mm bullets which match the Nano and higher C LiPo. These fit tighter and have more contact surface area. Very easy to solder w/3rd hand holder and low-cost too. The EC3 and EC5 connectors are excellent in my opinion, because the plugs snap-in the plastic housings that are shaped differently for safety during plug-in -so can't reverse the pos/neg. These will also not easily disconnect, compared to most bullets, but do have a finger grip point to pull apart too. EC's are colored dark blue, so it's not "a busy" bright look where installed.
May be a good choice for a lower-profile look for viewing on the exterior of the eBike.
liveforphysics
100 TW
The 4mm ones use the little round slitted spring contact thing right? I'm not too fond of that style either, it does seem to work well though.
You slide both wires through the plastic sheath, tin the tip of the wire, tin the connector, touch your iron to them to melt the tin'd spots together, then hold the plastic body and yank backwards on the wires, and the pins seat into the connector. Takes me about 1-2minutes to install one. If you don't have the plastic sleeve all ready on the wire and you put the pin on, you need to unsolder it and put the plastic over the wires first, you can't force it through the back without mangling the plastic.
Glad you've got a boost-iron. You will grow to love it.
You slide both wires through the plastic sheath, tin the tip of the wire, tin the connector, touch your iron to them to melt the tin'd spots together, then hold the plastic body and yank backwards on the wires, and the pins seat into the connector. Takes me about 1-2minutes to install one. If you don't have the plastic sleeve all ready on the wire and you put the pin on, you need to unsolder it and put the plastic over the wires first, you can't force it through the back without mangling the plastic.
Glad you've got a boost-iron.
You will grow to love it. Alan B said:
lifepo4ever
10 kW
i just try today my 4mm bullet from hobbyking they hold tight very good with the bumpy road to more tape to hold them like before with the anderson pole but also
not easy to solder , the 10 gauge wire fit tight but next time I will be 6mm or 8mm one, because the problem i have if you put to much solder in the cup you fill the gap for the plastic seat of the connector anyway am still happy with these for now i can go off road no problem!!
not easy to solder , the 10 gauge wire fit tight but next time I will be 6mm or 8mm one, because the problem i have if you put to much solder in the cup you fill the gap for the plastic seat of the connector anyway am still happy with these for now i can go off road no problem!!
Alan B
100 GW
I was afraid of that (wire through and pull back). My 10ga wire won't even fit through the connector bodies with the insulation on. The insulation is too thick.
shorza
10 kW
The Mighty Volt said:
This is the battery: http://www.conhismotor.com/ProductShow.asp?id=43
and this is the motor: http://www.conhismotor.com/ProductShow.asp?id=27
The listing says the motor @ max output power draws 11.01 amps. Am I read it right?
So those wires should be ok?
liveforphysics
100 TW
It will be fine. That motor spec sheet confuses controller amps with motor phase amps, but it doesn't matter, we know it works fine because there are thousands of examples of it working fine riding around on the streets.
shorza said:
The Mighty Volt
1 MW
stock terminals on the older model of the X5304 {they now use Andersons} replaced by/with Spades.
GCinDC
100 MW
This little guy arrived yesterday, just in time for a soldering job (4mm bullets), and I'm in love!! If you don't have one, get one! I'm going to get another as backup. Best $10 ever spent. Thanks!liveforphysics said:
The Mighty Volt
1 MW
Just curious dudes.......I ordered two of these irons, does anyone have a safe and easy solution for stepping down 220 to 110, would a travel adapter cut it?
GCinDC
100 MW
This is the technique I've been using. (I haven't gotten the feel of tinning the tip yet.)Alan B said:
I found that by dabbing the end of the 10AWG in flux (before stripping), it slides through the housing no problem! (Not sure if KY will work. You'd think you'd have to strip before sliding it in, but you don't...)
lifepo4ever
10 kW
GCinDC said:
yes ky is very important when its to tight and dry :lol: :lol: :lol:
A
Anonymous
Guest
when in doubt, use the smell test, all it takes is a whif of smoke and something's up 
Wire both irons in series.The Mighty Volt said:
Safe, as long as you don't forget they're both on, and easy enough. The Mighty Volt
1 MW
amberwolf said:Wire both irons in series.The Mighty Volt said:
Yes.....you know what, that is what I will do. As one cools I can hop from iron to iron......doubling my work-rate!!!!
liveforphysics
100 TW
The Mighty Volt said:amberwolf said:Wire both irons in series.The Mighty Volt said:
Yes.....you know what, that is what I will do. As one cools I can hop from iron to iron......doubling my work-rate!!!!
As long as you always hit the boost button on both irons at the same time...
You can just put a half-wave diode bridge in-line with it. It doesn't care if it's getting DC or AC, and the energy would balance as if it were getting 110v.
The Mighty Volt
1 MW
You know what I think I will just go back to "poker in the fire" method.....I did not foresee diodes in my future when I got into the business of prompting a cupro-plomo blend to melt onto some wire.
A
Anonymous
Guest
or 'my last broken 100w' soldering iron that broke' in the fire? I got mine red hot, lasted 30mins. soldered 6 tabs on, then added 95% alcohol and burnt an eyebrow off by accidentally getting too close to the coal fire *whooosh* :x
The Mighty Volt said:You know what I think I will just go back to "poker in the fire" method.....I did not foresee diodes in my future when I got into the business of prompting a cupro-plomo blend to melt onto some wire.
