Ok, I fixed the problem with the 9C / Lyen 6FET. Turns out to have been an I D ten T error, in my redo of the motor phase/hall wires.
What apparently happened is that somehow I mixed up the blue and green hall wires inside the motor itself, when I was redoing them to remove the splice they had at the axle exit point. This meant that even though I "knew" the combination for this set of motor and controller, it would never work, because it wasnt' actually right.
I only figured it out after actually going thru the combination chart, then when I hit the working one, it was correct *except* that the blue and green halls were swapped. At that point it became obvious what happened. I wasn't working with bright enough light when I did the motor wires, and obviously couldn't tell the difference between them at least for the moment it took to mix them up while soldering to the hall pigtails inside the motor.
Anyhow, I also retested it with the 36V EVAssemble controller, and verified it works there, too. I don't know why I could not get it to work with any combination on that one before; I must have had some other connection problem at the moment I tried the right combo (or during all testing).
In addition, I've now tested it ok with a Methods 100V 18FET that I just fixed tonight (3 more bad FETs, blown when I was experimenting with ti after my first FET replacement on it, just figuring out the combination of wires for the Fusin on it, months ago).
I also tested it ok with a now-fixed 12-FET Infineon from Ianmcnally, which had had melted shunts (!!!!) and blown main powerfilter caps, from having been connected to power in reverse, I think. viewtopic.php?p=307024#p307024
I pulled the two 1milliohm shunts out of an old fried analog brushless controller (also from Ianmcnally, I think?) that I probably won't fix for a long while. I don't know if they are even close to the right value for this Infineon, but they are all I had easy to get to right now.
THe caps were two 470uF 63V caps, and for the moment I used a single large cap of 820uF 200V, which has the big fat pointy-blade leads. It wont' fit on the board normally, so I wired it in instead. I'm sure I have a better replacement somewhere, but this one should be fine for a while.
I decided I would put the 6-pin JST(?) style connector on this one and on both the 9C 2807 and the 9C/GM1000W combo, for the halls, to begin standardization of my controllers to all one kind of connector so I can just swap them right out. I also put the wires into the connectors on the motor side in the order needed to be able to just plug into an Infineon already wired with this type of connector, as the Methods 18FET already was.
I'm doing the same thing with the phase wires, which will for now use Anderson PP45 simply because they're already on the Methods 18FET, the 9C/GM1000W, and the 12FET from Ianmcnally, and because I have a few I can use for the other side of those connections. I dont' have any extra bullet connectors, just a few on various dead controllers, and they are all the not-so-great kind of bullets, more like the automotive wiring-harness type. The color of the Anderson shells will match whatever the controller end is, for that mtoro's correct combination, so I can match the Anderson color and ignore the wire color, between any motor and any controller.
The idea will be to be able to swap out motors and controllers effortlessly, wherever possible, to get things going again as fast as possible, no messing around with figuring out combinations.
Now I need to go see if I can find anything else I have around here that either has that same 6-pin JST(?) male connector on it, so I can fit them on all the controllers (except the FUsin, which will only be used with the Fusin motor). I will need to find one for the Lyen 6FET controller and one for the EVAssemble 12FET; I've got them on the generic 12FET and the Methods 18FET.
So now in theory I have three "spare" controllers, though really only two--the Methods 18FET is going to go on CrazyBike2, driving the Icecube57 9C/GM1000W combo motor, once I figure out a safe way to lace it up in a crappy Huffy-bike steel 24" rim with the spokes I already have from some other wheel.
Then I need to go strip the braided shield off the outside of some old coax cable to make myself the jumpers between 10 TS60Ah cells to power it with.