12 kw rc motor

SKIRT BEARING : 61814 - capable a lot higher speed than before
kv: 70
New Cooling by hal similiar to last one
Sprockets will be added TO kit

Hal ,glad to see the bottom of motor - you made it ticker than i tought ...GREAT!!
 
Wow!!!
 
Awesome work on that motor, I don't know if these are ready to sell or what, I'm curious how much?? This thread is really long so maybe start a sale thread for clarity on what is being sold, dimensions, and specs.

Freakin cool!

Ugly color! :? Maybe just black if it is too get a decent dye color match.
 
Nice work guy's very nice work.
Based on the pre-prod motor I got you have fixed the major concerns:
- Adjustable/accessible halls really was a must the old glued in place was not good.
- New bearing arrangement (I get a nasty vibration noise at approx 3000 rpm)

I like the quality of finish on the wires and the new Hall setup.
I presume they are 1/4 inch threads for the cooling ports. That would open up a lot of options.

Now how do I convince my wife I need a replacement motor. :D
 
etard said:
Awesome work on that motor, I don't know if these are ready to sell or what, I'm curious how much?? This thread is really long so maybe start a sale thread for clarity on what is being sold, dimensions, and specs.

Freakin cool!

Ugly color! :? Maybe just black if it is too get a decent dye color match.
Click to expand...


First : you are right ; after putting the motor om the bike we will do that .
The price will be similiar to the last one fir es members - we were too excited to talk about that yesterday , but we will be quick and productive with this version once we will have relaible info and price

Color : i agree on black totally .. Etard , that would give this motor a serious color as it desirves since there is nothing more to fix here and i am convinced in quality if materials

Do we have a go for black Hal ??
 
SplinterOz said:
Nice work guy's very nice work.
Based on the pre-prod motor I got you have fixed the major concerns:
- Adjustable/accessible halls really was a must the old glued in place was not good.
- New bearing arrangement (I get a nasty vibration noise at approx 3000 rpm)

I like the quality of finish on the wires and the new Hall setup.
I presume they are 1/4 inch threads for the cooling ports. That would open up a lot of options.

Now how do I convince my wife I need a replacement motor. :D
Click to expand...

Guess you could start by saying something like : " You remember that Prada shoes you saw last week?....i could buy it for you ; you know ...if you just let me have my toy .."
 
Hey guys i will be off for 2 weeks , im going in China on two weeks to design some stuff . You can contact Hal and he will reply.
The testing is in process and he will let you know after the numbers etc..


See ya all soon
 
markobetti said:
Hey guys i will be off for 2 weeks , im going in China on two weeks to design some stuff . You can contact Hal and he will reply.
The testing is in process and he will let you know after the numbers etc..


See ya all soon
Click to expand...

Have a safe trip buddy...best of luck in CHina i hope it all goes as well as you expect :)

KiM
 
Two new motors are here but havent found much time to test them. Also I am waiting for a controller...

Quality of production is much better then in last factory.
The pipes are double wider. (12mm)

Sensor adjusting plate have minor design error. This is only fault I found so far.

xxx-001.jpg
 
WOW!!! That looks MEAN!!!! :twisted: Looking forward to seeing some numbers!
 
The motor works fine as I can test it. I am waiting for a big 36 fet controller to be finished and for Marko to came back from China. Don't know the price jet but it will be simmilar as before. This is from another manufacturer. I know I am slow but I am between jobs now and I am a bit tight with time...
 
Blah! Damn, that is really nice Splinter...

I was not really following this for a while, but noticed that there was progress since the initial no-load testing and bearing issues, etc... Hrmm, I was going to use the ME0913 for my ninja 250 conversion (using 2 separate 36 fet 4115 controllers for each set of windings)... This looks a bit nicer actually. Do you think I would be able to get as much power out of it?

Do you offer a little slower wind? I plan on running 36s lipo, so i'd need a wind of this motor that places it close to it's efficient rpm limit lol. I only want to do single gear reduction

How hard do you see it being to power this motor with 2 separate controllers?

Thanks for any input you have!
 
Hi there,
hey that's a nice piece of soft you are using ;) If you need some help or you have some parts to design I can give a hand :)
Just a little question. don't you fear that the magnets can make "disturbances" on your Hard disk? daamn this motor looks sick O_O
GreaatzZZ,
H.
 
tostino said:
Blah! Damn, that is really nice Splinter...

I was not really following this for a while, but noticed that there was progress since the initial no-load testing and bearing issues, etc... Hrmm, I was going to use the ME0913 for my ninja 250 conversion (using 2 separate 36 fet 4115 controllers for each set of windings)... This looks a bit nicer actually. Do you think I would be able to get as much power out of it?

Do you offer a little slower wind? I plan on running 36s lipo, so i'd need a wind of this motor that places it close to it's efficient rpm limit lol. I only want to do single gear reduction

How hard do you see it being to power this motor with 2 separate controllers?

Thanks for any input you have!
Click to expand...
Due to the magnet count vs the stator teath you need 1 controler or a mutliple of 3 controlers, so 1 or 3 or 9 or 6 ect.
 
Even if I split the windings into two parallel sets of equal wire counts? That would still need three controllers to work? How were you planning on splitting the windings up for multiple controllers?
 
tostino said:
Even if I split the windings into two parallel sets of equal wire counts? That would still need three controllers to work? How were you planning on splitting the windings up for multiple controllers?
Click to expand...
I am not sure if you can run two controlers in parrelel on the same set of windings!
If you find the pictures on this thread I drew of the stator vs magnet location it will show what I am thinking of doing.
Which is spliting it up to 9 phases and using 3 controlers. I am about to order some wire to rewind it. and I will wind one with 9 phases then you will always have a controler turing on and off the phases at the right time.
The way it is wound there is 6 stator teath on each set of phase wire and only 2 line up to magnets at once.
This is an awesome motor and it is near perfact but in the hopes of building it better.... Im going to try it! :mrgreen:
 
Well, technically they are the different sets of windings electrically. Physically, they would lay in the exact same slots, with the same number of turns, they would just be split in two. So each controller would see a winding with 2x the resistance of normal (making it much easier to drive hopefully).

Say they used 14 strands of wire for each phase on the motor. I would de-solder the wires where they are set to wye in the motor, and split the strands for each phase into 2 sets of 7. There would phase 1-1, 1-2, 1-3, 2-1, 2-2, 2-3. So I would have 6 wires coming out of the motor.

I'd have both controllers reading the hall sensors from the motor so there are no issues there.

That is how I was planning on running the axial flux ME0913 motor I was thinking about using, but instead of me having to split the windings, it was already done for me.

Edit: Am I mistaken on this working? Please correct me if I am wrong someone...
 
tostino said:
Well, technically they are the different sets of windings electrically. Physically, they would lay in the exact same slots, with the same number of turns, they would just be split in two. So each controller would see a winding with 2x the resistance of normal (making it much easier to drive hopefully).

Say they used 14 strands of wire for each phase on the motor. I would de-solder the wires where they are set to wye in the motor, and split the strands for each phase into 2 sets of 7. There would phase 1-1, 1-2, 1-3, 2-1, 2-2, 2-3. So I would have 6 wires coming out of the motor.

I'd have both controllers reading the hall sensors from the motor so there are no issues there.

That is how I was planning on running the axial flux ME0913 motor I was thinking about using, but instead of me having to split the windings, it was already done for me.

Edit: Am I mistaken on this working? Please correct me if I am wrong someone...
Click to expand...
I think that might work! Cool i like thinking out side the box !
 
Anyone else having problems with old pictures not working since es changed the batteries to nuclear?
 
tostino said:
Well, technically they are the different sets of windings electrically. Physically, they would lay in the exact same slots, with the same number of turns, they would just be split in two. So each controller would see a winding with 2x the resistance of normal (making it much easier to drive hopefully).

Say they used 14 strands of wire for each phase on the motor. I would de-solder the wires where they are set to wye in the motor, and split the strands for each phase into 2 sets of 7. There would phase 1-1, 1-2, 1-3, 2-1, 2-2, 2-3. So I would have 6 wires coming out of the motor.

I'd have both controllers reading the hall sensors from the motor so there are no issues there.

That is how I was planning on running the axial flux ME0913 motor I was thinking about using, but instead of me having to split the windings, it was already done for me.

Edit: Am I mistaken on this working? Please correct me if I am wrong someone...
Click to expand...

I have done what you are thinking of doing before. It works, but sometimes there are shorts between parallel strands so you just need to check and make sure you get the wires which are shorted in the same group together.

-ryan
 
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