68.4V now. Guess that's it's typical resting voltage after full charge then.
2WD Semi-Recumbent Recycled-Parts Cargo eBike: "CrazyBike2"
- Thread starter amberwolf
- Start date
Practically carbon copy today in some ways, but it was VERY windy, gusty enough to almost blow me off the road twice (a couple of really small cars were having trouble too).
Ride data (work commute):
19m 13s trip time
4.650miles
23.5mph max
14.2mph avg
28.5Wh/mile
2.355Ah
130.17Wh
52.7Amax
68.4Vstart
64Vrest
44Vmin
Resting voltages of each pack about the same as yesterday, perhaps a hundredth of a volt difference.
Ride data (work commute):
19m 13s trip time
4.650miles
23.5mph max
14.2mph avg
28.5Wh/mile
2.355Ah
130.17Wh
52.7Amax
68.4Vstart
64Vrest
44Vmin
Resting voltages of each pack about the same as yesterday, perhaps a hundredth of a volt difference.
charge data from last night:
Charge data:
PackA (TWM2):
25.71Vstart
28.01Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.93Ap
88.6Wp
135.2Wh
4.762Ah
PackB (TWM1):
25.71Vstart
28.09Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.98Ap
89.9Wp
128Wh
4.510Ah
PackC (WU1):
Note that I forgot to go back and check it when it should have finished; I didn't restart the charger though; just let it be this time.
12.59Vstart
13.76Vfinish
2.85Ap
43.3Wp
65.9Wh
4.565Ah
Ride data from today (less windy but still gusty on the wya to work, calm on ride home):
20m 7s trip time
4.836miles
22mph max
14.4mph avg
25.6Wh/mile
2.181Ah
123.01Wh
53Amax
68.6Vstart
64.2Vrest
44.3Vmin
Why about 0.2V more today? I dunno, especially since I did not go back and put the fan-used charge back into PackC. :?
Charge data:
PackA (TWM2):
25.71Vstart
28.01Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.93Ap
88.6Wp
135.2Wh
4.762Ah
PackB (TWM1):
25.71Vstart
28.09Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.98Ap
89.9Wp
128Wh
4.510Ah
PackC (WU1):
Note that I forgot to go back and check it when it should have finished; I didn't restart the charger though; just let it be this time.
12.59Vstart
13.76Vfinish
2.85Ap
43.3Wp
65.9Wh
4.565Ah
Ride data from today (less windy but still gusty on the wya to work, calm on ride home):
20m 7s trip time
4.836miles
22mph max
14.4mph avg
25.6Wh/mile
2.181Ah
123.01Wh
53Amax
68.6Vstart
64.2Vrest
44.3Vmin
Why about 0.2V more today? I dunno, especially since I did not go back and put the fan-used charge back into PackC. :?
Charge data:
PackA (TWM2):
25.79Vstart
28.47Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.93Ap
88.7Wp
120Wh
4.212Ah
PackB (TWM1):
25.08Vstart
28.42Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.98Ap
90.1Wp
117Wh
4.097Ah
PackC (WU1):
Got it just as it finished this time.
12.64Vstart
14.16Vfinish
2.85Ap
43.6Wp
62.5Wh
4.314Ah
PackA (TWM2):
25.79Vstart
28.47Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.93Ap
88.7Wp
120Wh
4.212Ah
PackB (TWM1):
25.08Vstart
28.42Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.98Ap
90.1Wp
117Wh
4.097Ah
PackC (WU1):
Got it just as it finished this time.
12.64Vstart
14.16Vfinish
2.85Ap
43.6Wp
62.5Wh
4.314Ah
No ride data from today, because I couldn't ride CB2. 
As I was getting ready to go out the door, and had just moved the bike off the dead SLA I use as a "kickstand" for CB2 in the living room, Nana saw or heard a cat outside and started to head for the door. In the process of turning in reaction to this and ordering her to lay down (which stops her in her tracks, at least), I lost my grip on the bike and it fell on the left side onto the carpet.
No big deal, just pick it up and wheel it out and go, right? No, as soon as I hit the throttle, the motor turned but stuttered badly, obviously some serious problem. Probalby a hall wire busted or shorted, likely at the wire exit from the axle, which probalby hit the floor. Maybe pinched something.
With only a few minutes to get to work, and being REALLY tired (having worked night shift last night, and now heading out for morning shift today, which always sucks), I couldn't figure it out and fix it in time to ride CB2 to work. So I used DayGlo Avenger instead, which fortunately worked fine, although I had to air up the back tire again (some sort of slow leak I have yet to find the source of, possibly the valve core?).
More on DGA here:
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=374540#p374540
As I was getting ready to go out the door, and had just moved the bike off the dead SLA I use as a "kickstand" for CB2 in the living room, Nana saw or heard a cat outside and started to head for the door. In the process of turning in reaction to this and ordering her to lay down (which stops her in her tracks, at least), I lost my grip on the bike and it fell on the left side onto the carpet.
No big deal, just pick it up and wheel it out and go, right? No, as soon as I hit the throttle, the motor turned but stuttered badly, obviously some serious problem. Probalby a hall wire busted or shorted, likely at the wire exit from the axle, which probalby hit the floor. Maybe pinched something.
With only a few minutes to get to work, and being REALLY tired (having worked night shift last night, and now heading out for morning shift today, which always sucks), I couldn't figure it out and fix it in time to ride CB2 to work. So I used DayGlo Avenger instead, which fortunately worked fine, although I had to air up the back tire again (some sort of slow leak I have yet to find the source of, possibly the valve core?).
More on DGA here:
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=374540#p374540
Fixed the stuttering, it was indeed a cut hall wire, the yellow one. It was cut right at the axle exit, less than 1/8" of wire left sticking out.
View attachment 4
Woulda been hard to fix, but fortunately I had left some extra inside the hub, though not for this eventuality, thus I didn't have to open it up to splice it.
I just pulled an inch or so out, then stripped both ends 1/4" or so, frayed the wire a bit and stuffed them into each other so they interleave, twisted that together like a lap-joint but mechanically stronger should solder fail, and doesnt' take up any more room than the original wire+insulation did:
Tested it ok wheel-off-ground, and soldered it. No test ride yet, but it should be fine now. None of the other wires was nicked, although the insulation is depressed on a couple.
Then taped it up, TIED IT OUT OF THE WAY OF THE AXLE END like I should have the first time, and it's "ready" for the next ride. Hopefully to never have the same failure again.
I've noticed for a few weeks now that the tread is getting thin in places on my front tire:
But it isn't thin everywhere in the center, just in one spot, really.
Strange, since it's rotating all the time you'd expect wear to be much more even than this. I haven't measured it, but it looks like at least a mm, maybe two, of difference in tread height between just the two pictured spots, which are approxmiately the lowest and highest.
Anyway, I have never found these Cheng Shin tires anywhere else, as they came on a used bike. I really like them for ride feel, wet roads, and grip on cornering; the tread pattern seems well-suited to roads. I used this same tire on the Undead Race, and you've seen pics of how hard a lean I could do (at 25-30MPH) with it and not skid. Only thing I guess I don't like is that they're only about 1500 miles old, as they seemed pretty new when I got them off the used bike. But if they were hard enough to last longer, they probably woudln't have the nice cornering grip they do.
I still have one more, on the rear of DayGlo Avenger, and it still has little wear on it relative to this one (probably because this one is on the front motor wheel and I'm sure it slips some on each start, when it was on DGA, TVE, and now CB2).
I'm always sad when things wear out beyond my capacity to fix them.
View attachment 4
Woulda been hard to fix, but fortunately I had left some extra inside the hub, though not for this eventuality, thus I didn't have to open it up to splice it.
I just pulled an inch or so out, then stripped both ends 1/4" or so, frayed the wire a bit and stuffed them into each other so they interleave, twisted that together like a lap-joint but mechanically stronger should solder fail, and doesnt' take up any more room than the original wire+insulation did:
Tested it ok wheel-off-ground, and soldered it. No test ride yet, but it should be fine now. None of the other wires was nicked, although the insulation is depressed on a couple.
Then taped it up, TIED IT OUT OF THE WAY OF THE AXLE END like I should have the first time, and it's "ready" for the next ride. Hopefully to never have the same failure again.
I've noticed for a few weeks now that the tread is getting thin in places on my front tire:
But it isn't thin everywhere in the center, just in one spot, really.
Strange, since it's rotating all the time you'd expect wear to be much more even than this. I haven't measured it, but it looks like at least a mm, maybe two, of difference in tread height between just the two pictured spots, which are approxmiately the lowest and highest.
Anyway, I have never found these Cheng Shin tires anywhere else, as they came on a used bike. I really like them for ride feel, wet roads, and grip on cornering; the tread pattern seems well-suited to roads. I used this same tire on the Undead Race, and you've seen pics of how hard a lean I could do (at 25-30MPH) with it and not skid. Only thing I guess I don't like is that they're only about 1500 miles old, as they seemed pretty new when I got them off the used bike. But if they were hard enough to last longer, they probably woudln't have the nice cornering grip they do.
I still have one more, on the rear of DayGlo Avenger, and it still has little wear on it relative to this one (probably because this one is on the front motor wheel and I'm sure it slips some on each start, when it was on DGA, TVE, and now CB2).
I'm always sad when things wear out beyond my capacity to fix them.
Forgot to post a pic of the tied-down wire loop:
Hall repair worked, but I found when I started out down the road that the speedo didn't. I found a dog bite in the wire, not all the way thru, but just enough to break the wire inside so that if it vibrates it touches and gives six bajillion MPH readings. :lol:
So now I know where that problem comes from. Fixed easy with another wire splice, but the cumulative speedo readings from today are more than suspect because of it.
The distance is definitely not accurate, or nearly so, as I took a side trip to Safeway on the way home that would add about two miles to the total, for about seven, but it's closer to 9, which is clearly wrong.
28m 34s trip time*
8.839miles*
637mph max* :lol:
18.5mph avg* Sure....
19.6Wh/mile* bogus cuz of wrong mileage
3.174Ah
172.64Wh
52.53Amax
68.3Vstart (after sitting for more than a day after charge)
62.5Vrest
42.9Vmin
PackC (12V source for brake and turn signals) is definitely not healthy; if I was running at more than about 8A draw, turn signals would not function. About 7.5A and they'd blink but either too slowly or too fast, or randomly. Below about 7A they seemed fine but a little dim, only returning to normal below about 5.5A.
I haven't noticed this problem before, so it likely means that PackC has a much higher self-discharge rate than A or B (not surprising, given it's history).
Resting voltage didn't seem all that different from normal, on the packs, with no load:
PackA= 25.18V
PackB= 25.17V
PackC= 12.39V
Turning on the turn signal caused an apparent drop of nearly 2V, tough to be sure exactly how much due to the flashing of the signal, which causes a huge current spike at first, then lowers to an amp or so, IIRC.
Directly connecting either pair of paralleled turn lamps to it (shorting across the flasher) is only about 1.3V drop, to 11.1V. But still that's pretty serious drop for such a low current draw.
I'll retry this after charge and see what kind of drop I get.
So now I know where that problem comes from. Fixed easy with another wire splice, but the cumulative speedo readings from today are more than suspect because of it.
The distance is definitely not accurate, or nearly so, as I took a side trip to Safeway on the way home that would add about two miles to the total, for about seven, but it's closer to 9, which is clearly wrong.
28m 34s trip time*
8.839miles*
637mph max* :lol:
18.5mph avg* Sure....
19.6Wh/mile* bogus cuz of wrong mileage
3.174Ah
172.64Wh
52.53Amax
68.3Vstart (after sitting for more than a day after charge)
62.5Vrest
42.9Vmin
PackC (12V source for brake and turn signals) is definitely not healthy; if I was running at more than about 8A draw, turn signals would not function. About 7.5A and they'd blink but either too slowly or too fast, or randomly. Below about 7A they seemed fine but a little dim, only returning to normal below about 5.5A.
I haven't noticed this problem before, so it likely means that PackC has a much higher self-discharge rate than A or B (not surprising, given it's history).
Resting voltage didn't seem all that different from normal, on the packs, with no load:
PackA= 25.18V
PackB= 25.17V
PackC= 12.39V
Turning on the turn signal caused an apparent drop of nearly 2V, tough to be sure exactly how much due to the flashing of the signal, which causes a huge current spike at first, then lowers to an amp or so, IIRC.
Directly connecting either pair of paralleled turn lamps to it (shorting across the flasher) is only about 1.3V drop, to 11.1V. But still that's pretty serious drop for such a low current draw.
I'll retry this after charge and see what kind of drop I get.
Today's ride...uneventful on the way to work, but after that....
Uh, near-disaster today. While I was cashiering, someone knocked the bike over trying to move it in the warehouse (where I have to park it) to get access to stuff I had to block with it (as we had a load in there and there was nowhere else to put it). Somehow they broke the brake-handle end of the cable off, the little cast-metal thingy that lets the handle pull on the cable.
So I would have had no brakes for the way home. That would be bad.
While I was at my half-hour lunch, I reconfigured for 48V, since 60V is pointless with no brakes. I also rewired the horn button (the only usable momentary control I have on the bars) to engage the ebrake line on the generic 12FET controller, in the hopes that it would have regen, but it doesn't. It just turns off the controller when pressed.
I tried connecting the mysterious pair of wires on it, and that doesnt' change it's behavior, and it also doesn't limit speed, so I have no idea what that wire loop is for. :?
Anyway, having failed at that attempt to give me *some* braking,
I spent about 45 minutes after work tying a knot in the handle-end of the cable in order to "replace" the cast-bit-of-metal that normally allows the handle to pull it. After about a bajillion steel porcupine quills thru my fingertips (which are all throbbing right now, almost three hours later), I managed to get a double knot in it big enough that it CAN'T be pulled back thru that little hole.
Can't see the knot very well in this pic, but it's the best angle I could get:
Woulda used a washer down-cable from the knot, but I didn't have one small enough to fit in the handle that could be taken off of anything on the bike (or in my toolbag).
I squeezed it as hard as I could, until I could hear the brake pads squeegeeing against the rim, and it didn't move or compress anymore, and it held the wheel pretty solid, as much so as before this happened.
I was just lucky that I had an extra three inches of cable (at the brake end) that I had never trimmed off, or I could not have done this.
Another wierd thing is that the CA, which had been fine on the to-work trip, suddenly had weird readings for everything. It's not powered on unless the breaker is flipped *and* the andersons for it's shunt reconnected (which I leave unplugged whenever I leave the bike unattended), so it makes no sense that it would change anything from falling over. Maybe it happened at power up when I was doing the testing? Or at power down after I arrived at work?
Anyway, it corrupted the total Ah and total miles, to the tune of several tens of thousands. :lol: The per-trip stuff for everything, including voltage and whatnot, were also corrupted, in similar ways. So all the data from the trip home-to-work is gone today. All the settings were still correct, so it's not some global eeprom trashing.
So the readings for my trip home, generally at 15MPH or less (just in case the brake cable *did* fail, after having worked fine in the empty parking lot for some hard braking from up to 17MPH)
14m 34s trip time
2.86miles
17.1mph max
11.7mph avg
17.4Wh/mile
1.050Ah
49.9Wh
44.76Amax
52.3Vstart
51.1Vrest
41.3Vmin
Mostly uneventful, though going so much slower than usual (often only about 10MPH, and coasting to a stop from a long way away whenever possible rather than depending on braking at the last moment) didn't make me any friends with the few cars passing me.
IT's all recharging right now, reconfigured back to 60V. I gotta dig thru my stuff and find those long brake cables AussieJester sent me, and replace this one (but I'll keep this or another one in the pod on the bike just in case of a future problem).
I guess this is just one more warning to me to get the danged rear brake installed, and get a regen-capable controller going on this thing.
Oh, FWIW, the frayed look of the end of the cable where it had been inside the little cast metal bit gives me the impression that it may have been failing for a while, and whatever stress was placed on it was just the last straw. For all I know, it would have failed on my way home tonite, trying to brake from 20MPH just behind the cars at the left turn from Peoria to 31st.
THAT would've SUCKED.
BTW, pic of the charging setup as it is now:
And a pic of the horn (currently disconnected from my experiment above):
Also, another dollar find at Goodwill from Saturday, which appears to work fine so far, as tested on a few of my SLA (in various states):
Uh, near-disaster today. While I was cashiering, someone knocked the bike over trying to move it in the warehouse (where I have to park it) to get access to stuff I had to block with it (as we had a load in there and there was nowhere else to put it). Somehow they broke the brake-handle end of the cable off, the little cast-metal thingy that lets the handle pull on the cable.
So I would have had no brakes for the way home. That would be bad.
While I was at my half-hour lunch, I reconfigured for 48V, since 60V is pointless with no brakes. I also rewired the horn button (the only usable momentary control I have on the bars) to engage the ebrake line on the generic 12FET controller, in the hopes that it would have regen, but it doesn't. It just turns off the controller when pressed.
I tried connecting the mysterious pair of wires on it, and that doesnt' change it's behavior, and it also doesn't limit speed, so I have no idea what that wire loop is for. :?
Anyway, having failed at that attempt to give me *some* braking,
I spent about 45 minutes after work tying a knot in the handle-end of the cable in order to "replace" the cast-bit-of-metal that normally allows the handle to pull it. After about a bajillion steel porcupine quills thru my fingertips (which are all throbbing right now, almost three hours later), I managed to get a double knot in it big enough that it CAN'T be pulled back thru that little hole.
Can't see the knot very well in this pic, but it's the best angle I could get:
Woulda used a washer down-cable from the knot, but I didn't have one small enough to fit in the handle that could be taken off of anything on the bike (or in my toolbag).
I squeezed it as hard as I could, until I could hear the brake pads squeegeeing against the rim, and it didn't move or compress anymore, and it held the wheel pretty solid, as much so as before this happened.
I was just lucky that I had an extra three inches of cable (at the brake end) that I had never trimmed off, or I could not have done this.
Another wierd thing is that the CA, which had been fine on the to-work trip, suddenly had weird readings for everything. It's not powered on unless the breaker is flipped *and* the andersons for it's shunt reconnected (which I leave unplugged whenever I leave the bike unattended), so it makes no sense that it would change anything from falling over. Maybe it happened at power up when I was doing the testing? Or at power down after I arrived at work?
Anyway, it corrupted the total Ah and total miles, to the tune of several tens of thousands. :lol: The per-trip stuff for everything, including voltage and whatnot, were also corrupted, in similar ways. So all the data from the trip home-to-work is gone today. All the settings were still correct, so it's not some global eeprom trashing.
So the readings for my trip home, generally at 15MPH or less (just in case the brake cable *did* fail, after having worked fine in the empty parking lot for some hard braking from up to 17MPH)
14m 34s trip time
2.86miles
17.1mph max
11.7mph avg
17.4Wh/mile
1.050Ah
49.9Wh
44.76Amax
52.3Vstart
51.1Vrest
41.3Vmin
Mostly uneventful, though going so much slower than usual (often only about 10MPH, and coasting to a stop from a long way away whenever possible rather than depending on braking at the last moment) didn't make me any friends with the few cars passing me.
IT's all recharging right now, reconfigured back to 60V. I gotta dig thru my stuff and find those long brake cables AussieJester sent me, and replace this one (but I'll keep this or another one in the pod on the bike just in case of a future problem).
I guess this is just one more warning to me to get the danged rear brake installed, and get a regen-capable controller going on this thing.
Oh, FWIW, the frayed look of the end of the cable where it had been inside the little cast metal bit gives me the impression that it may have been failing for a while, and whatever stress was placed on it was just the last straw. For all I know, it would have failed on my way home tonite, trying to brake from 20MPH just behind the cars at the left turn from Peoria to 31st.
THAT would've SUCKED.
BTW, pic of the charging setup as it is now:
And a pic of the horn (currently disconnected from my experiment above):
Also, another dollar find at Goodwill from Saturday, which appears to work fine so far, as tested on a few of my SLA (in various states):
Ooops, forgot to post last night's charging data:
PackA (TWM2):
25.18Vstart
28.32Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.94Ap
87.6Wp
137.5Wh
5.634Ah
PackB (TWM1):
25.17Vstart
28.29Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.98Ap
89.2Wp
151.2Wh
5.402Ah
PackC (WU1):
12.39Vstart
14.27Vfinish
2.84Ap
42.2Wp
80.9Wh
5.222Ah
PackA (TWM2):
25.18Vstart
28.32Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.94Ap
87.6Wp
137.5Wh
5.634Ah
PackB (TWM1):
25.17Vstart
28.29Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.98Ap
89.2Wp
151.2Wh
5.402Ah
PackC (WU1):
12.39Vstart
14.27Vfinish
2.84Ap
42.2Wp
80.9Wh
5.222Ah
I did nto have time night before last to change the cable, though I did find the cables AJ sent me, and took them to work yesterday so I could do it at lunch. The operation was successful, and I rolled up the old knotted-end cable to take home and get a pic of, but I must've left it sitting at work cuz I can't find it here, and I didn't find it today at work either. Probably buried under cases of canned food there, as a bunch of stuff was moved around between then and now. I'm sure I'll find it once we're done stocking the stuff in the next week or so.
I also did not have time to write down the charge data from night before last, so it's lost, as is the charge data from last night, for the same reason.
Ride data from yesterday, again at the 60V pack setup:
21m 18s trip time
??miles (guess I didn't write it down)
20.1mph max
13.9mph avg
22.9Wh/mile
1.941Ah
112.71Wh
53.1Amax
70.1Vstart
64.4Vrest
44.6Vmin
Ride data from today:
20m 0s trip time
4.601miles
98.4mph max (obviously this is corrupt again, I need to closely examine the entire speedo cable for more dog chew spots. something must be intermittently shorting or opening, very rapidly)
13.8mph avg
25.2Wh/mile
2.025Ah
115.83Wh
53.58Amax
70.1Vstart
64.8Vrest
44.4Vmin
Nothing eventful yesterday, but today there were quite a few "interesting" moments which I was glad to have a newer cable on the brake (though I still dont' fully trust it for some reason; maybe I never will, now).
I have noticed that the brakes are a bit less "mushy", probably there is less cable stretching, and most likely the old cable was already fraying at the handle endpiece, so that not all the cable strands were being pulled anymore.
I still can't lock up the front wheel, no matter how tightly the brakes are adjusted or how the pads are set. Either these brakes (cantilever, I think? I keep calling them V brakes because that's the shape they make, upside down, but I know that's not right, and that V brakes actually have an H or upside down squared-off U shape. :lol: ).
Oops, rambling...either these brakes are simply not good enough to stop 300lbs+ of bike+rider/etc., or the bosses on the cheap-junk suspension fork are not stiff enough to hold them parallel to the rim, and are allowing them to pigeon-toe out (despite being toed-in to start with), leaving only their trailing end fully in contact with the rim.
I don't think it's the latter, because there's no wear-pattern indicating this.
As a randomly-fired thought: It seems strange to me that the bosses on the rear brakes are usually (maybe always?) pointed rearward/upward, so that they are pulled *inward* towards the rim, increasing the force against the rim as the pads are pulled forward by contact with the rim, whereas the bosses on the front brakes are usually (always that I have seen) pointed forward/upward, so that they are pushed *outward* away from the rim, *decreasing* the force against the rim as pads are pulled forward by rim contact.
At one time, I had this reversed on CrazyBike2's original 24" front fork, for a reason I can't quite remember, (trail?) but I can't for the life of me remember what effect that had, if any. I know I coudln't lock those up either, and they were "linear" V-brakes (cheap Shimano something-or-other).
If I had a second set of bosses on the rear-facing side of the fork legs, and these brakes were set to engage at the same time as the first front-facing set, they *should* cancel out their tendency to twist the fork leg/brakebridge in different directions, and I should get truly flat contact with the rim every time. Plus double braking force.
One downside to it I can see is that the front set would encounter a rim surface already heated by the rear set, and I don't know if that would make a difference or not in their braking ability, or if it would be significant even if it did.
I still have not figured out any way to make regen work on this generic 12FET. I'm thinking I should take the Methods' 18FET off of there until I can figure out why I can't get it to work with this 9C anymore, and try that EVAssemble "36V" controller on it, though I'd do that only at 48V first. That EVA controller has demand-speed control, so it automatically regen-brakes (though perhaps only minimally, as I don't recall feeling it on DGA) whenever the throttle is set lower than the actual speed of the bike. Except if you drop hte throttle to zero; it then allows it to coast.
Alternately, see if that Crystalyte unit Karma sent works or can be fixed, and try it out.
I just need time....
I also did not have time to write down the charge data from night before last, so it's lost, as is the charge data from last night, for the same reason.
Ride data from yesterday, again at the 60V pack setup:
21m 18s trip time
??miles (guess I didn't write it down)
20.1mph max
13.9mph avg
22.9Wh/mile
1.941Ah
112.71Wh
53.1Amax
70.1Vstart
64.4Vrest
44.6Vmin
Ride data from today:
20m 0s trip time
4.601miles
98.4mph max (obviously this is corrupt again, I need to closely examine the entire speedo cable for more dog chew spots.
something must be intermittently shorting or opening, very rapidly)13.8mph avg
25.2Wh/mile
2.025Ah
115.83Wh
53.58Amax
70.1Vstart
64.8Vrest
44.4Vmin
Nothing eventful yesterday, but today there were quite a few "interesting" moments which I was glad to have a newer cable on the brake (though I still dont' fully trust it for some reason; maybe I never will, now).
I have noticed that the brakes are a bit less "mushy", probably there is less cable stretching, and most likely the old cable was already fraying at the handle endpiece, so that not all the cable strands were being pulled anymore.
I still can't lock up the front wheel, no matter how tightly the brakes are adjusted or how the pads are set. Either these brakes (cantilever, I think? I keep calling them V brakes because that's the shape they make, upside down, but I know that's not right, and that V brakes actually have an H or upside down squared-off U shape. :lol: ).
Oops, rambling...either these brakes are simply not good enough to stop 300lbs+ of bike+rider/etc., or the bosses on the cheap-junk suspension fork are not stiff enough to hold them parallel to the rim, and are allowing them to pigeon-toe out (despite being toed-in to start with), leaving only their trailing end fully in contact with the rim.
I don't think it's the latter, because there's no wear-pattern indicating this.
As a randomly-fired thought: It seems strange to me that the bosses on the rear brakes are usually (maybe always?) pointed rearward/upward, so that they are pulled *inward* towards the rim, increasing the force against the rim as the pads are pulled forward by contact with the rim, whereas the bosses on the front brakes are usually (always that I have seen) pointed forward/upward, so that they are pushed *outward* away from the rim, *decreasing* the force against the rim as pads are pulled forward by rim contact.
At one time, I had this reversed on CrazyBike2's original 24" front fork, for a reason I can't quite remember, (trail?) but I can't for the life of me remember what effect that had, if any. I know I coudln't lock those up either, and they were "linear" V-brakes (cheap Shimano something-or-other).
If I had a second set of bosses on the rear-facing side of the fork legs, and these brakes were set to engage at the same time as the first front-facing set, they *should* cancel out their tendency to twist the fork leg/brakebridge in different directions, and I should get truly flat contact with the rim every time. Plus double braking force.
One downside to it I can see is that the front set would encounter a rim surface already heated by the rear set, and I don't know if that would make a difference or not in their braking ability, or if it would be significant even if it did.
I still have not figured out any way to make regen work on this generic 12FET. I'm thinking I should take the Methods' 18FET off of there until I can figure out why I can't get it to work with this 9C anymore, and try that EVAssemble "36V" controller on it, though I'd do that only at 48V first.
That EVA controller has demand-speed control, so it automatically regen-brakes (though perhaps only minimally, as I don't recall feeling it on DGA) whenever the throttle is set lower than the actual speed of the bike. Except if you drop hte throttle to zero; it then allows it to coast. Alternately, see if that Crystalyte unit Karma sent works or can be fixed, and try it out.
I just need time....
Speaking of time, I keep not having enough to remember to unplug the fan on the charger each time for PackC, so it keeps draining down over the hours I'm asleep.
So I'm taking a bit of time right now to check into the brains of the operation
in that Tenergy charger, and see where I can hook that fan that it won't affect the charger's operation but will shut down at end of charge.
Here's the full bottom of the PCB:
Apparently the brain is a Samsung 8-bit MCU, p/n 3f84k4xzzsk94 (3f84 series). So that doesn't help a lot, given that it oculd be programmed to do anything at any pin at any time, kinda sort of. Was hoping to find a dedicated chip that had some sort of end-of-charge flag pin I could tap directly.
I guess I'll have to do the obvious, and tap the Red Charging LED to drive a transistor that drives the fan.
The status LED is a red/green common cathode, so the output it'll have to the transistor will be positive. I can use any regular NPN transistor, like the 2n2222 (which I have a bag of someplace) or similar (which I probably have thousands of, salvaged from things), with a 1Kohm resistor to it's base from the LED's anode. Might dim the LED a bit, but I don't care; I'll know when it's charging just by the fan running. :lol:
Transistor collector to the fan negative, emitter to ground. Fan positive to positive battery charging output. Should work. We'll see, after I find a transistor and resistor and a bit of wire.
So I'm taking a bit of time right now to check into the brains of the operation
in that Tenergy charger, and see where I can hook that fan that it won't affect the charger's operation but will shut down at end of charge.
Here's the full bottom of the PCB:
Apparently the brain is a Samsung 8-bit MCU, p/n 3f84k4xzzsk94 (3f84 series). So that doesn't help a lot, given that it oculd be programmed to do anything at any pin at any time, kinda sort of. Was hoping to find a dedicated chip that had some sort of end-of-charge flag pin I could tap directly.
I guess I'll have to do the obvious, and tap the Red Charging LED to drive a transistor that drives the fan.
The status LED is a red/green common cathode, so the output it'll have to the transistor will be positive. I can use any regular NPN transistor, like the 2n2222 (which I have a bag of someplace) or similar (which I probably have thousands of, salvaged from things), with a 1Kohm resistor to it's base from the LED's anode. Might dim the LED a bit, but I don't care; I'll know when it's charging just by the fan running. :lol:
Transistor collector to the fan negative, emitter to ground. Fan positive to positive battery charging output. Should work. We'll see, after I find a transistor and resistor and a bit of wire.
Done, works during charge, so far. Fan spins slower than before, I think it's only getting about 9 or 10V (at a guess, didn't measure) out of the transistor, probably cuz I ended up using a 10Kohm, being the first one pulled out of the bin next to the transistor (a 2N2222 EBC TO-18 style: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TO-18 ). Still moves plenty of air, though, and is nowhere near as noisy, maybe 1/5 the noise. Quiet enough I can't hear it running two rooms away now.
Still charging PackC, so we'll see if it shuts off when done, too. I hope so. I probably spent an hour on the whole thing, including cleaning off enough of my "workstation" to use it to solder on, since the dogs wouldn't leave me alone on teh floor by the bike long enough to position things. :lol:
I superglued the resistor and transistor down first, to make it easier to solder to. Resistor went on the solderside:
with one end directly soldered to the input to the LED and it's dropping resistor. Other end up and around the PCB mounting hole, then directly to the base of the transistor:
Everything around the leads is insulated already, so I did not insulate the resistor or transistor leads. The transistor itself is held down by not only the superglue, but by the outgoing battery charge cable, when assembled:
so it's not going anywhere, even under vibration if I carried it with me on the bike. Other stuff is more likely to break, built into the charger itself, like FETs and caps.
The other leads are wired as described, and can be seen in the first pic, from the fan and transistor, and the second pic, from fan to transistor.
Another hour or so and charge will be done, so if I'm still up I'll see if it worked.
Still charging PackC, so we'll see if it shuts off when done, too. I hope so. I probably spent an hour on the whole thing, including cleaning off enough of my "workstation" to use it to solder on, since the dogs wouldn't leave me alone on teh floor by the bike long enough to position things. :lol:
I superglued the resistor and transistor down first, to make it easier to solder to. Resistor went on the solderside:
with one end directly soldered to the input to the LED and it's dropping resistor. Other end up and around the PCB mounting hole, then directly to the base of the transistor:
Everything around the leads is insulated already, so I did not insulate the resistor or transistor leads.
The transistor itself is held down by not only the superglue, but by the outgoing battery charge cable, when assembled:so it's not going anywhere, even under vibration if I carried it with me on the bike. Other stuff is more likely to break, built into the charger itself, like FETs and caps.
The other leads are wired as described, and can be seen in the first pic, from the fan and transistor, and the second pic, from fan to transistor.
Another hour or so and charge will be done, so if I'm still up I'll see if it worked.
It did work, and shut the fan off when the red light shut off.
Now I just have to find a way to power the WattsUp off something else (other than a battery of it's own), so it doesnt' drain the pack down, too. It's apparently not as much of a load as the fan, but it is still a problem.
Now I just have to find a way to power the WattsUp off something else (other than a battery of it's own), so it doesnt' drain the pack down, too. It's apparently not as much of a load as the fan, but it is still a problem.
Huh. I thought I wrote down the charge data from above, but I didn't post it and I cant' find it now.
Ride data from today later; I'm too worn out to get up now, and keep dozing off just trying to kill forum spammers (lots of them tonight, vs the usual one every-other-day or so). Can't really sleep though; too many ideas in my head. :?
I think I already had this idea two or three times now, and keep forgetting it: I can run the WU1 off of a celphone charger, plugged into the same power strip as the other chargers. I just need to remember to *try* this.
I also need to remember to fix the lacing on that 3-speed Sachs hub wheel so I can put it on as CB2's rear wheel, since it has a coaster brake. Then at least I would *have* a rear brake, in case something stupid happens iwth the front one again.
Tomorrow I may be riding DGA to a friends out in Mesa, but I have to make the torque arm(s) first. I'd rather ride CB2 but the way things are likely to work out, I'll be so tired by the end of that day I'll need his help to get back safely. That means riding a bike I can put on his car's rear rack, and CB2 ain't that. :lol: DGA is pushing it, even with the battery out of it. At least it will be a nice long test of DGA. :lol:
Ride data from today later; I'm too worn out to get up now, and keep dozing off just trying to kill forum spammers (lots of them tonight, vs the usual one every-other-day or so). Can't really sleep though; too many ideas in my head. :?
I think I already had this idea two or three times now, and keep forgetting it: I can run the WU1 off of a celphone charger, plugged into the same power strip as the other chargers. I just need to remember to *try* this.
I also need to remember to fix the lacing on that 3-speed Sachs hub wheel so I can put it on as CB2's rear wheel, since it has a coaster brake. Then at least I would *have* a rear brake, in case something stupid happens iwth the front one again.
Tomorrow I may be riding DGA to a friends out in Mesa, but I have to make the torque arm(s) first. I'd rather ride CB2 but the way things are likely to work out, I'll be so tired by the end of that day I'll need his help to get back safely. That means riding a bike I can put on his car's rear rack, and CB2 ain't that. :lol: DGA is pushing it, even with the battery out of it. At least it will be a nice long test of DGA. :lol:
Been using this helmet recently when day riding; it's getting kinda warm for the black MC helmet. On a lark I did a google for Nutcase swirly color and found that's actually what they call it: Nutcase Swirl model NTCS-2014. Apparently the Nutcase webstore charges $50 for these, so I guess I got it for a steal at $2.99.amberwolf said:Also found a Nutcase helmet:
Might not keep the paintjob but it sure is easy to notice.
I did decide to keep the paintjob on the nutcase but I think I am gonna paint the MC helmet white so it doesn't get quite as hot from the AZ sun, or at least not as fast.
Been bothering me more and more not having any center-spot to my headlight, partly cuz my eyes aren't so good anymore, and partly because on really dark roads, having my headlight on actually makes it HARDER to see. SInce the CFL just lights up what's close, it leaves it so bright close to me that farther down the road it's just blackness if there's no other light sources and nothing to silhouette things with (like on the canal paths and many back streets).
Yesterday or the day before, I ran across a 40W 12.8V halogen spot, which was *probably* the one off the old ScootNGo. I'd misplaced both the bulb and the headlight/socket assembly more than a year ago, IIRC, and apparently in different places, cuz I still haven't found the casing/socket, just the bulb.
It's so bright at arms lenght that I can't look straight at it, and even out of the corner of my eye it leaves dazzly spots, even in a well-lit room. So it ought to do well enough on a dark road (I don't really need it on street-lit roads, but it could help there, too in some situations).
By itself it still has a lot of side-lighting, which I don't need cuz the CFL does that really well. So I dug thru my optics drawer and found this old telescope end,
and it seems to help focus quite a bit. I need to play with focal length and whatnot to get it ideal, but even just with the bulb lightly superglued into it like this:
it gives a much better spot:
even with the camera flash:
I'll probalby mount it just below the CFL headlight, unless I can make them both fit inside the housing, perhaps with the halogen in front of the CFL, or under it (probalby not sufficient diameter of housing for htat).
Now for some boring ride data. First, from the trip previous that I forgot to ever post:
20m 0s trip time
4.601miles
20.4mph max
13.8mph avg
25.2Wh/mile
2.025Ah
115.83Wh
53.58Amax
?Vstart
64.8Vrest
44.4Vmin
Today's ride, including a trip to the store after work:
29m 4s trip time
7.003miles
22mph max
14.4mph avg
26.5Wh/mile
3.315Ah
184.79Wh
53.86Amax
69.4Vstart
62.1Vrest
42.7Vmin
Pack voltages at rest, just load of wattmeters:
PackA 24.99
PackB 25.00
PackC 12.31
Charge data as soon as it's finished (if I'm awake)
Yesterday or the day before, I ran across a 40W 12.8V halogen spot, which was *probably* the one off the old ScootNGo. I'd misplaced both the bulb and the headlight/socket assembly more than a year ago, IIRC, and apparently in different places, cuz I still haven't found the casing/socket, just the bulb.
It's so bright at arms lenght that I can't look straight at it, and even out of the corner of my eye it leaves dazzly spots, even in a well-lit room. So it ought to do well enough on a dark road (I don't really need it on street-lit roads, but it could help there, too in some situations).
By itself it still has a lot of side-lighting, which I don't need cuz the CFL does that really well. So I dug thru my optics drawer and found this old telescope end,
and it seems to help focus quite a bit. I need to play with focal length and whatnot to get it ideal, but even just with the bulb lightly superglued into it like this:
it gives a much better spot:
even with the camera flash:
I'll probalby mount it just below the CFL headlight, unless I can make them both fit inside the housing, perhaps with the halogen in front of the CFL, or under it (probalby not sufficient diameter of housing for htat).
Now for some boring ride data. First, from the trip previous that I forgot to ever post:
20m 0s trip time
4.601miles
20.4mph max
13.8mph avg
25.2Wh/mile
2.025Ah
115.83Wh
53.58Amax
?Vstart
64.8Vrest
44.4Vmin
Today's ride, including a trip to the store after work:
29m 4s trip time
7.003miles
22mph max
14.4mph avg
26.5Wh/mile
3.315Ah
184.79Wh
53.86Amax
69.4Vstart
62.1Vrest
42.7Vmin
Pack voltages at rest, just load of wattmeters:
PackA 24.99
PackB 25.00
PackC 12.31
Charge data as soon as it's finished (if I'm awake)
PackA (TWM2):
24.99Vstart
28.03Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.94Ap
88.2Wp
161Wh
5.761Ah
PackB (TWM1):
25.00 Vstart
28.07 Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.98Ap
89.9Wp
154.5Wh
5.518Ah
PackC (WU1):
12.31Vstart
13.98Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.89Ap
43.7Wp
80.9Wh
5.729Ah
I've been trying to compare pack temperatures at end of charge, and AFAICT PackC is getting at least 20F hotter than A or B before the charger cuts off.
I have not actually measured the temperature yet, just used my highly calibrated hand, so it might be off by a lot. It is most definitely quite a bit warmer than the other two, but none of them is uncomfortably hot or anything.
I don't know if it's simply the way this charger is designed, or if there is a fault.
I'm not sure how to tell if it is reading the thermistor correctly (a thermistor from the other Tenergy charger, presumably they would use the same type). I did verify continuity from charger PCB thru thermistor to ground, while attached to pack but not powered up.
24.99Vstart
28.03Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.94Ap
88.2Wp
161Wh
5.761Ah
PackB (TWM1):
25.00 Vstart
28.07 Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.98Ap
89.9Wp
154.5Wh
5.518Ah
PackC (WU1):
12.31Vstart
13.98Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.89Ap
43.7Wp
80.9Wh
5.729Ah
I've been trying to compare pack temperatures at end of charge, and AFAICT PackC is getting at least 20F hotter than A or B before the charger cuts off.
I have not actually measured the temperature yet, just used my highly calibrated hand, so it might be off by a lot. It is most definitely quite a bit warmer than the other two, but none of them is uncomfortably hot or anything.
I don't know if it's simply the way this charger is designed, or if there is a fault.
I'm not sure how to tell if it is reading the thermistor correctly (a thermistor from the other Tenergy charger, presumably they would use the same type). I did verify continuity from charger PCB thru thermistor to ground, while attached to pack but not powered up.
Today was rainy, and of course it didn't even really seem like it was going to start until just as I locked the front door after getting the bike out to go to work. Fortunately I dressed for rain anyway, expecting it'd happen after dark if not before. Even so, ended up soaked from the waist down due to teh amount of it in teh short ride to work.
No problems with the bike itself, though, despite not having put covers or tape back on teh front of the controller and whatnot, so nothing except the CA is really sealed against the water.
for some reason it was a LOT harder to stop with wet rims than the last time. Shouldn't be the new brake cable, as it is EASIER to stop when dry with it, though i still can't lockup the wheel (I think the bike is just too heavy for a single set of these old canti rim brakes to be able to do that, at over 300lbs plus cargo/etc).
Once I added the 91lbs of groceries/etc on the trip home, it was worse, although at least I did not have the problem of the front wheel skidding during acceleration into turns then, like I did on the way to work. Also there was no rain on the trip home, just wet roads and unavoidable puddles, so the rim wasn't *as* wet as on the way to work.
Ride data, including a side trip to the store on the way home:
28m 13s trip time
6.098miles
22.9mph max
12.9mph avg
30.9Wh/mile (was 25.2 until after the grocery store)
3.409Ah
188.28Wh
54.07Amax
69.4Vstart
62.2Vrest
42.3Vmin
Resting voltages for the packs:
A 25.09
B 25.11
C 12.2
Pack C is actually getting worse now, so either the heat of balancing is damaging it further, or a cell (or more) is on the way out anyway, or the whole pack is really just not capable of high currents anymore (above 7-9A) without major sag.
At this point, I'm better off taking it back down to 48V again, because using the 12V lighting pack as part of the traction pack is currently causing no turn signals while accelerating pretty much at all. That's a problem. So after this charge, I'm gonna do that, and it'll just be a lighting pack again, which it does fine as. Since it'll also be supplying the halogen 40W above, it's better this way so I don't really drain it down a lot.
No problems with the bike itself, though, despite not having put covers or tape back on teh front of the controller and whatnot, so nothing except the CA is really sealed against the water.
for some reason it was a LOT harder to stop with wet rims than the last time. Shouldn't be the new brake cable, as it is EASIER to stop when dry with it, though i still can't lockup the wheel (I think the bike is just too heavy for a single set of these old canti rim brakes to be able to do that, at over 300lbs plus cargo/etc).
Once I added the 91lbs of groceries/etc on the trip home, it was worse, although at least I did not have the problem of the front wheel skidding during acceleration into turns then, like I did on the way to work.
Also there was no rain on the trip home, just wet roads and unavoidable puddles, so the rim wasn't *as* wet as on the way to work.Ride data, including a side trip to the store on the way home:
28m 13s trip time
6.098miles
22.9mph max
12.9mph avg
30.9Wh/mile (was 25.2 until after the grocery store)
3.409Ah
188.28Wh
54.07Amax
69.4Vstart
62.2Vrest
42.3Vmin
Resting voltages for the packs:
A 25.09
B 25.11
C 12.2
Pack C is actually getting worse now, so either the heat of balancing is damaging it further, or a cell (or more) is on the way out anyway, or the whole pack is really just not capable of high currents anymore (above 7-9A) without major sag.
At this point, I'm better off taking it back down to 48V again, because using the 12V lighting pack as part of the traction pack is currently causing no turn signals while accelerating pretty much at all. That's a problem. So after this charge, I'm gonna do that, and it'll just be a lighting pack again, which it does fine as. Since it'll also be supplying the halogen 40W above, it's better this way so I don't really drain it down a lot.
Charging is almost done, but not quite. In the meantime, here's some stuff Auraslip sent me, the charger and controller should prove useful if I can fix them. The kickstand should definitely be useful, if it can hold up to the weight of the bikes.
I don't think it'll work on CrazyBike2, though; it's too tall for it
and also would require a chain guide to keep the pedal chain from whacking the right leg of it all the time (even if I'm not pedalling):
If CB2 were taller in the frame, it'd be great, but it would have to be about 2" higher off the ground for it to fit.
I can't remember for sure, but I think the frame on the new version of CB2 that I'm concocting here:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=378025#p378025
is also too low to the ground for this. Latest version might be too high, instead, but that I can fix with a mounting block.
It will, however, fit DayGlo Avenger just about perfectly:
just barely taller than the space under the bike, so it wouldn't really raise it up any. THe only catch is that DGA is leftside-heavy, so it would probably just fall over that direction, unless I were to put the second cargo pod on it's right side and evenly distribute the weight of battery/etc.
So the kickstand will probably go on the green-and-white Nishiki once I get around to fixing it up and electrifically motorizing it. Since it will not be a heavy lopsided cargo bike, but just a commuter with a little over-tire rack, batteries in frame, it ought to work fine with that.
The 36V 2A charger:
View attachment 4
powers on, but only outputs 22.66V, and the status LED flashes red rapidly with a bit of green visible too. The circle in the pic is the only visible failure I can see, which is that the wirewound resistor there has actually vaporized the wire in places. It is very hard to see in the pic (best I could get) but it has droplets of molten metal in spots where the wirewound used to be, and most of the color stripes are burned off too.
The value appears to be black-green-gold, or 0.015ohms (I think), and it is in series with the ground lead of the charger output wire. Probably is the sensing shunt. Rather, *was*. I assume something blew that took it out, but since the charger is actually outputting voltage, maybe it was just an overload on it's output from the reversed polarity:
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=366612#p366612
Will need troubleshooting.
PCB solder side:
PCB parts side:
View attachment 2
The controller is a XieChang 9FET, EB809 type. A quick examination doesnt' reveal exactly what's wrong, but the shunt was modified, so popped FETs are a possibility. I should dig up his thread about it:
No time to do anything with these yet, but like always, once I have a dire need for one of them I'll probably check it out closer.
Now that the pics are taken and post typed up, the charging is done:
PackA (TWM2):
25.09Vstart
28.61Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.93Ap
89.2Wp
159.7Wh
5.659Ah
PackB (TWM1):
25.11Vstart
28.61Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.97Ap
90.4Wp
150.6Wh
5.329Ah
PackC (WU1):
12.2Vstart
14.53Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.99Ap
44.5Wp
85.2Wh
5.995Ah
I don't think it'll work on CrazyBike2, though; it's too tall for it
and also would require a chain guide to keep the pedal chain from whacking the right leg of it all the time (even if I'm not pedalling):
If CB2 were taller in the frame, it'd be great, but it would have to be about 2" higher off the ground for it to fit.
I can't remember for sure, but I think the frame on the new version of CB2 that I'm concocting here:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=378025#p378025
is also too low to the ground for this. Latest version might be too high, instead, but that I can fix with a mounting block.
It will, however, fit DayGlo Avenger just about perfectly:
just barely taller than the space under the bike, so it wouldn't really raise it up any. THe only catch is that DGA is leftside-heavy, so it would probably just fall over that direction, unless I were to put the second cargo pod on it's right side and evenly distribute the weight of battery/etc.
So the kickstand will probably go on the green-and-white Nishiki once I get around to fixing it up and electrifically motorizing it.
Since it will not be a heavy lopsided cargo bike, but just a commuter with a little over-tire rack, batteries in frame, it ought to work fine with that. The 36V 2A charger:
View attachment 4
powers on, but only outputs 22.66V, and the status LED flashes red rapidly with a bit of green visible too. The circle in the pic is the only visible failure I can see, which is that the wirewound resistor there has actually vaporized the wire in places. It is very hard to see in the pic (best I could get) but it has droplets of molten metal in spots where the wirewound used to be, and most of the color stripes are burned off too.
The value appears to be black-green-gold, or 0.015ohms (I think), and it is in series with the ground lead of the charger output wire. Probably is the sensing shunt. Rather, *was*.
I assume something blew that took it out, but since the charger is actually outputting voltage, maybe it was just an overload on it's output from the reversed polarity:http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=366612#p366612
Will need troubleshooting.
PCB solder side:
PCB parts side:
View attachment 2
The controller is a XieChang 9FET, EB809 type. A quick examination doesnt' reveal exactly what's wrong, but the shunt was modified, so popped FETs are a possibility. I should dig up his thread about it:
No time to do anything with these yet, but like always, once I have a dire need for one of them I'll probably check it out closer.
Now that the pics are taken and post typed up, the charging is done:
PackA (TWM2):
25.09Vstart
28.61Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.93Ap
89.2Wp
159.7Wh
5.659Ah
PackB (TWM1):
25.11Vstart
28.61Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.97Ap
90.4Wp
150.6Wh
5.329Ah
PackC (WU1):
12.2Vstart
14.53Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.99Ap
44.5Wp
85.2Wh
5.995Ah
THis is the kickstand you had the stack of washers (I think) as a shim for, right?
I'm gonna guess that the FETs are what's dead in teh controller hten. Maybe not all of them, either. I'll have to see what I have around here I can transplant, if I get time to work on it. (probably not soon at the rate things are going).
I'm gonna guess that the FETs are what's dead in teh controller hten. Maybe not all of them, either. I'll have to see what I have around here I can transplant, if I get time to work on it. (probably not soon at the rate things are going).
If it wasn't cast alloy, I would consider that, but I have only a flux-core steel welder.
Today's ride data (at 48V vs 60V) is only for the trip home; I accidentally reset the CA as I was checking the Wh/mile before leaving work (distracted and held the button down too long).
Again, it includes a side trip to the store, this time with 120lbs of groceries and stuff, in addition to the usual work-stuff and tools, etc. Had to go a lot slower than usual for the trip home, as there just was so much awkwardly shifting weight from liquids that it was hard to brake and steer.
19m 48s trip time
3.799miles
21.2mph max
11.5mph avg
23.9Wh/mile
1.906Ah
89.445Wh
42.1Amax
57.1Vstart
49.9Vrest
41.8Vmin
Pack voltages at rest:
A 25.03
B 25.02
C 13.53
Today's ride data (at 48V vs 60V) is only for the trip home; I accidentally reset the CA as I was checking the Wh/mile before leaving work (distracted and held the button down too long).
Again, it includes a side trip to the store, this time with 120lbs of groceries and stuff, in addition to the usual work-stuff and tools, etc. Had to go a lot slower than usual for the trip home, as there just was so much awkwardly shifting weight from liquids that it was hard to brake and steer.
19m 48s trip time
3.799miles
21.2mph max
11.5mph avg
23.9Wh/mile
1.906Ah
89.445Wh
42.1Amax
57.1Vstart
49.9Vrest
41.8Vmin
Pack voltages at rest:
A 25.03
B 25.02
C 13.53
Charge data from last night:
PackA (TWM2):
25.03 Vstart
28.43 Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.93Ap
89Wp
173.9 Wh
6.177 Ah
PackB (TWM1):
25.02Vstart
28.66Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.98Ap
90.2Wp
168.8 Wh
5.988 Ah
PackC (WU1):
13.53Vstart
14.23Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.90Ap
45.2Wp
26.0 Wh
1.717 Ah
Ride data from today, normal commute:
20m 45s trip time
4.797miles
20.8mph max
13.8mph avg
22.2Wh/mile
2.225Ah
106.67Wh
49.63Amax
56.8Vstart
51.9Vrest
41.7Vmin
Charge data from tonite:
PackA (TWM2):
26.00 Vstart
29.47 Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.93Ap
88.6Wp
105.1 Wh
3.674 Ah
PackB (TWM1):
25.99Vstart
29.31Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.98Ap
90Wp
99.1 Wh
3.459 Ah
PackC (WU1):
13.6Vstart
14.23Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.89Ap
44.5Wp
24.1 Wh
1.597 Ah
PackA (TWM2):
25.03 Vstart
28.43 Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.93Ap
89Wp
173.9 Wh
6.177 Ah
PackB (TWM1):
25.02Vstart
28.66Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.98Ap
90.2Wp
168.8 Wh
5.988 Ah
PackC (WU1):
13.53Vstart
14.23Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.90Ap
45.2Wp
26.0 Wh
1.717 Ah
Ride data from today, normal commute:
20m 45s trip time
4.797miles
20.8mph max
13.8mph avg
22.2Wh/mile
2.225Ah
106.67Wh
49.63Amax
56.8Vstart
51.9Vrest
41.7Vmin
Charge data from tonite:
PackA (TWM2):
26.00 Vstart
29.47 Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.93Ap
88.6Wp
105.1 Wh
3.674 Ah
PackB (TWM1):
25.99Vstart
29.31Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.98Ap
90Wp
99.1 Wh
3.459 Ah
PackC (WU1):
13.6Vstart
14.23Vfinish (w/charger just disconnected)
2.89Ap
44.5Wp
24.1 Wh
1.597 Ah
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