Tidal Force : "The Long Ranger"

I said in a previous post that I reduced my pack size and it improved the weight and handling of the bike. Im not going to let those 3 packs go to waste. I often go on long rides so being able to easily incorporate those last 3 packs into my existing pack is a must. I created a Y cable with a pass through that stays connected to my 66v 15Ah pack at all times. The other leg of the Y cable is wired to allow me to connect the other 3 turnigy packs to make one big 66v 20AH pack.
 

Attachments

  • Photo0125[1].jpg
    Photo0125[1].jpg
    46.4 KB · Views: 7,587
When I said I let the smoke out apparently I forgot about something thats on the stator. There is a plastic protector cut to the eact shape of the stator teeth on the stator that i suppose protects the windings from the sharp corners of the stator. That was melting in on and around the windings causing the smoke to billow out. Several members including methods and hyena have experienced this but the windings look pristine.
 
Ok status update to those who peek in and check on me from time to time.

The bike is running ehhh ok. Im still blown away by the performance on 18S. Im still getting some of the kinks out. One of the kinks that really grinds my gears is the stator scrubbing the magnets. When the motor cold warm or hot its fine. No scrubbing. But when Im really pushing it near that back off threshhold you hear the stator scrub the magnets on every revolution. Im not sure if its the glue thats holding the magnets thats expanding causing them to bulge up slightly or if its the stator thats expanding under the heat or if its both. I understand that the air gap is small also.

Im not sure how regenerative braking works but I think it dumps or creates heat in the windings. On long fast descents is when i experience the problem the most.

Last week I took JohnInCRs advice on taking the covers off and looking at the covers and finding the sealant marks and reseating them back in their original positions. I did that im very sure of their position. The seal marks were hard to see but there were very distinct prints that I matched up perfectly so I know that not the problem. There are scrub marks on the stator and magnets. The stator marks are about 1/8 up to 1/4 of an inch wide. The scrub marks are on about 1/3 of the way around the stator on one side and about 1/4 on the other. I figured the easiest way to fix this is to sand/dremel a very thin layer of material off the stator. I marked the stator with two lines. One for the beginning of the scrub and one at the end of the scrub. I sanded a small thin layer of material off the stator where you clearly saw scrub marks. The scrub marks were over the halls also but it was on the tail in of the scrub mark where it starts to taper off so it was no biggie. The halls a recessed slightly but its a close call. I sanded the stator around the halls with an emory board to eliminate the risk of me nailing one of them with the dremel and end up having to replace a hall.

Tommorrow I will see if that solved the problem. It was late and I didnt want to piss off my neighbors with my Lumenator Light. Im pretty sure my project fixed it or at the very least bought me more time while riding. But I really have to be running it pretty agreassive around these hills around my house for it to start doing it which is roughly 10 minutes of hard riding.

Another problem Im having is low wheel tension. The LBS trues my wheel and do a very good job. I didnt have any problems out of my Old Clyte Wheel when I took it to them. There were able to torque that guy pretty high with the 12G spokes. But when it comes to this ebikekit 9C wheel they are kinda timid to put any real tension on it. Ebikekit recommends a spoke deflection of 25-30. The LBS is doing it in the low to mid 20s. One of the main reasons they arent putting high tension on it is they wanted the nipple to seat flush in the they eyelet and not at an angle. I agree with them but then again the wheel clearly needs some tension on it. When I roll the bike around without me on it you either hear spokes rubbing or clicking or both. When the wheel is loaded it sounds worse. There is plenty of room left to tighten them more on the nipple. Its hard to enjoy a long ride when your wheel is making all this racket and Im dreading a spoke break. Also I think the wheel is very weak with the current spoke pattern with all the elbows on the inside of the motor flange. I think it makes the wheel laterally weak.

I notice it was a little warm inside my battery bag today after a ride. Its not alarming but I think there are some losses in the Anderson harnesses. The wires are warm but the connectors are fine. Im pulling 40-50A constant and peaking 70-90. So the 12g wire is heating up a little bit. The phase wires feel solid. Im not the least bit worried about them.

I think im going to try and do my first Critical Mass Ride In a Atlanta this Friday. I hope I get the kinks worked out before then. Mainly this wheel tension issue.

In other news Im very suprised at the power of this motor. My neighor just moved in her bf. I came home to find them socializing with my wife in the garage. The conversation shifted to my bike. He was like ill try it later. I said you are going to try it now. He gave in. I started him off in Grandma mode. (20mph legal restricted) He was excited about that. The controller still dumps 3500-4000w off the line but it tapers off quickly and he proceeded to take my bike up the huge as hill on my street that I will stall on in grandma mode and it took him up the hill without stalling un assisted maintaing about 15mph. Which I cant even do unless I have a running start. He is about 120lbs lighter than me so I can understand it being easier on the motor and controller. He went around the block and came back. He said take this out of grandma mode. He had a grin from ear to ear. I offered him a helmet but he declined. He goosed the throttle one good time and he was like OMG are you frocking serious. I explain Grandma mode has all the power but its in a condensed power band that quickly fades because its programmed to have a top speed of 20mph so it has to back off the current when approaching that speed. I then explained that he is in the unrestricted mode with timing advance which basically stretches out that power band and it will keep accelrating very strongly up until about 30-35mph and thats when it will taper off and crawl to top speed of 40mph. I told him there is about less than half the torque at top speed than there is at 20mph. He understood it and threw back a ICE analogy to let me know he understood what I was saying. He left again in unrestricted mode. In the back of my mind I thought he was going to lay my bike down and I gotta get my car and find him. He was gone like 10 minutes. It takes less than 2 to circle my neighborhood. I was worried that something may have failed. I forgot to mention to him that the motor really wasnt intended for continuous duty of 4kw. I got in my car. It has my bike rack on it. I rode around in my subdivision and couldnt find him I get to the entrance of my sub division and i see his ass flying by and i mean it was hauling ass on the main road. Its one thing to ride your own bike but to see someone else riding it with EV grin hauling ass at top speed in traffic like its a motorcycle. Its like it was in slow motion but it wasnt. He turned around after a while and came back to my house. He had nothing but praise and good things to say. He said stuff like it will eat a moped alive on acceleration and possibly torque. Hes said he has rode motorcycles before but this is different and way more fun.
 
Ice,

You should be lead ebike evangelist!

I would definitely have made him wear a helmet though!!!

Ambrose
 
Ok Ive been concerned abou t this spoke tension issue. The lacing on the inside of the motor flange makes the wheel very weak and the wheel has little to no lateral strength. If i look at it the wrong way it goes untrue and wobbles like hell. I had a talk with rob holmes and he told me i should consider a new wheel build and respoke. I rebuilt the wheel this morning with the alternating spoke inside and outside the motor flange and i crossed the spoke under its partner spoke to pretension and share tension and give it more lateral strength. The wheel is very stiff. I put it on the bike and rode it around a little bit. It immediately settled in and the nipples began to seat in the wheel after a few jack rabbit starts and some regen action after a mile or two. It was very clicky and noisy. I took the wheel off the bike and retensioned it to get the slack out the spokes. Made sure they sung when I plucked them. I also applied my full body weight to the rim when i pushed it on the ground rechecked the spokes and I put the wheel back on. Big difference. I rode around for a few miles. There is an occasional tick but you have to listen for it. I will check the spokes one more time after I log a few more miles on it. So thinks are finally looking up.

Im trying to be ready for some nice rides coming up. The LBS does a 15-25 mile ride on every Thursday at the adjacent trail infront of the shop. I think im goin to ride with them and see what reactions I get. Its pretty much a lycra crowd. The LBS workers and owners are genuinely intrested but who knows what their customers will say when they look at it up close. Im also going to try and go to this Critical Mass Ride in Atlanta,Ga this Friday.

I going to try and log in a good 20 or more miles on Wed if the pollen isnt to bad. Its supposed to get into the low 80s.
 
This is a PSA.

Hello my name is Christofer Parham and I am FLUFFY. Im 6ft 2in and weigh around 325lbs. Any problems that I have had with noisy spokes, loose spokes, spoke tension, untrue wheels are entirely of my own doing and doesnt reflect the workmanship of any vendor I use because I am FLUFFY. The parts on my bike was built with the intent to shuttle around normal people at normal voltages at normal amperages. By me being outside the norm and being FlUfFy I need more voltage and more amperage to get more torque to move my "FLUFFY" butt around. This puts exessive wear, pressure, tension,stress and torque on the spoke to where wheels quickly become loose & noisy and may seem weak and possibly unusable.

But if you are normal and run you ebike as intended then you should have miles of worry free riding.... and you know what knowing this information is half the battle.

[youtube]v3rhQc666Sg[/youtube]
 
icecube57 said:
Hello my name is Christofer Parham and I am FLUFFY. Im 6ft 2in and weigh around 325lbs.

Sounds like you need to change your user name from icecube to iceberg :lol: :p
What about upgrading to a tough rim and and 10ga spokes ?
The stealth bombers use fat ass spokes that look to be 10ga - surely they'd suffice ?

My dad had a similar response to your neighbor about my bike, and I was similarly worried when after doing a lap of the block he disappeared for 5 minutes. Like your neighbor he was off enjoying it and came back with a big EV grin. He's ridden bikes all his life and came back saying how brilliant it is and has more guts than a few small motorbikes he's ridden, but then told me off saying it was too dangerous and that I'd get myself in strife building them for other people. heh
 
Did you know GMs earlier wheels used 12g spokes but 13g nipples. The GM rim was also wider. It was the best wheel I had because I never had to true it... then it fell off the car. I dont wanna talk about it... Cut the cameras off.

I ordered another spoke tool from electric rider it came in today. Not a snug tight fit but it got the job done. I put the final touches of tension on my wheel. Its whisper quiet and strong as hell. Ready to take a beating to an extent. I took my bell slicks off and but my big apples back on to absorb a few shocks so that dont transfer so much energy straight into the wheel. Im running 30psi in the front and 40psi in the rear. When I normally run 50psi in the front and 60- 65 in the rear withh a 1.95 tire.
 
In went out for a ride this afternoon. It was a little brisk. It was in the low to mid 60s but the sun was out so I work a small jacket. This being the first actually real exercise ride of the season I took it kinda easy. The gearing feels very good with a 48TF-11TR I can pedal to the mid 20s and still put in honest effort with the motor assisting.

One thing I noticed on this ride after I opened her up on the road a little bit is that when the motor get saturated with heat there is a performance loss which is to be expected. Also there is an unmistakeable drag that shows its face for a while and disappears once it cools but this is the opposie behavior. If the motor is getting hot then the magnets are supposed to get slightly weaker therefore less cogging. But I have the opposite effect unless its a bearing issue.

I noticed this behavior when I pushed the X5 5303 Crystalte motor past its comfort zone.

One good thing about all of this is atleast the stator isnt scrubbing the magnets so its a confirmation that my stator dremeling surgery was a success.

The big apples are doing their job the ride feels much better. I have to get used to the baloon tire feel. The ride is softer but i have to be carful . Im running lower PSI than Im used to so with my weight and size im more prone to pinch flats at lower PSI . My front tire would be fine but since I dont have rear suspension and a now stiff wheel pothole or not so smooth pavement transition could prove ill fated. I may increase to 40 front and 50 rear to be safe.
[youtube]WWxqzhMZrOY[/youtube]
 
Great read !! I have many times had the ebike fist clench. wondering if id killed or maimed one of my buddies with my bike. Waiting what seems like forever for it to come back !!! Many have done the dump off the line. including my dad ! Whos father in law got maimed here before, was it MEthoDs? with the pics of his head bleeding and everything1!?!??

Ice anyways keep spreading the word !! I bet ive given rides to fifty people so far, who can beat it!!

mike
9c rear lyen 12fet turnigy 15s
 
Well here is another rant. Have you ever noticed that the growl of 9C is anything but discreet. Low speed cruising I can clearly hear the growl through my full face motocross helmet. So that mean I know people are like wtf is that when cruising on the trail. The trail here passes through tunnels and section where there are rocky cliffs on both sides. So it echos loudly through the corridor. When I pass someone I try to build up enough speed to pass them so i can kill the motor as Im passing them and after I get so far ahead i re-engage the throttle to continue cruising. At higher speed its less noticable. Im also think that since i got the swiss cheese thing going on with my motor I think its action like a violin case amplify and throwing the sound alot louder clearer and farther than normal. Also dogs tend to act kinda weird when Im around. I guess there is no way to fix this.

After putting the finishing touch on those final bastard spokes the wheel has been running like a champ. Not a squeek, click, groan, or pop. Solid as a rock. I thank rob for his advice and GinDC for posting video of his new wheel to copy the lace pattern. I also would like to thank ebikekit.com for hearing me out on my suggestions an constructive criticism on his wheels. Though there was a slight bumping of heads he makes a point and I agree and stand behind the craftmanship of his wheels. But what works for most doesnt work for all in my case because of my "Fluffiness"


I think I shall do this spray enamel treatment to my motor at some point of time. I suppose thats the closest thing to water proofing Im going to get. Although Ive had no problem with foreign material getting in there. If

In the last video i know I had that motor feeling toasty but no stator scrub. Praise Baby Jesus lying in the manger. Alough Ive seem to have gain a low end harmonic or tone while coming of the line that resonates for a few seconds and goes away. This is different from the growl. It very similar to what my old crystalyte 5303 used to do. I wish someone smart could explain all this.

My amped bikes torque arm seems to be doing its job pefectly. Its a pain to work with especially taking the motor on and off and God Forbid I have to take the side covers off.... I actually do need to take off the free wheel because I cheated when I painted my motor and didnt paint behind the free wheel.

I need to find a discreet but good horn. I have a cheap 3 dollar bell from electric rider but I dont think people can hear it. I need something loud but not startling.If it can be electric and operate off of an 18s pack with no convertor even better. Only if they made a pint sized fork lift horn.

Im on the fence on whether to get one more battery medic or get a low watt turnigy charger/balancer... I dont have any balance issues but that damn meanwell is temperature sensitive. There is almost a 0.05mv shift in voltage between day and night and its causing the packs to be slightly high. I normally charge overnight in the garage and take the pack off in the morning. If I put 3 medics monitoring each 6s section of my pack it puts enough of a draw on the pack to stop the cells from going high. Its like an active balancer while charging. If I get a Turnigy charger I can only do one pack section at a time unless i use my balance tap harnesses to make it into one big 6s 45ah pack and plug it directly into one charger this makes for slow balancing.. Im undecided... sad thing is they both cost the same amount of money so i guess ill go with the balancer charger... maybe...
 
Oh, I was trying to figure out what you were doing in that lot... Glad the vid helped! I may be needing it again soon..

And yeah, the 9C growl at low speed is annoying, and kinda embarrassing!

How long before you go for the new xlyte, HSwhatever? :mrgreen:
 
HS3540! However icecube57 stated that he doesn't want speeding obviously He might interest in HT series instead.

HT series capable go fast 30-35mph with lot torquey and ability do climb up the hills lot easier than the HS series.

GCinDC said:
How long before you go for the new xlyte, HSwhatever? :mrgreen:
 
I decided to do a few things to my bike to improve the stealth and visual appeal. I dont know how many of you guys have the Ebikes.Ca Lumenator but it has a really soft cheap paint job. The first week I had mine I had the paint job scuff and every direction imaginable. Its bothered me ever since then. The paint was really soft. You could scratch it off with you fingernail. I took my dremel out and put my scotch pad attachment on and it started to peel off like foil on a puddin cup. I like the brushed aluminium look so i decided not to paint it. I also did the same thing with my bell that suffered some scuffs marks also.

To help with my stealth I slightly spray painted my hall phase and battery connectors a flat black. You can see what the real colors are if you unplug them but the flat black really helps the connectors blend into the bike more instead of it being bright and flashy and drawing attention to whats in the wheel.
I also had to paint the white/tan ethernet cable I used to run stuff up to the front of the bike. That was a pain to paint... rotatate....paint... and paint again. But the wiring is black and matching so it does look cleaner and worth the wait.

Well my battery situation has been easy but fustrating. I had my packs arragened in 3 sub packs. 22.2v 15AH. I was trying to balance each sub group seperately with different battery medics. Then I just broke down and decided to parallel all the pack on the pack and cell level. I left it on the charger and let it do its thing of balancing with the battery medic. Its like someone else on the forum said. Its like pissing into the wind. But they all eventually settled to the right voltage. Today was a pretty cool day. It was 45-55 degrees. It was a perfect time to recalibrate my meanwell since the temp fluctates. It chargers at a higher voltage when cold and lower voltage when its warm so I recalibrated to where its spot on but a smidget high to where I want it and as it gets warmer with the transition into spring and early summer the voltage will slightly drop to exactly where it needs to be.

Ive been debating on running rear disc.. GinDC said he wasnt satisfied with the ebikekit.com slimline caliper. I like my bb7 up front but i dont think they would fit the rear. My rim brakes or pretty good in the back so its not a pressing matter. The thing is adding rear disc brake caliper would require me to add more spacer washers to spread the rear drop outs alittle so I have enough clearance for the caliper but the caliper mounts are being blocked by my rack and one hole is being used by my torque arm. Thats not a big deal I can just get a longer bolt but I may mean I have to use a seat post rack. This also interfers with my controller mounting position... since it will require more work than its worth it may get sat on the back burner but I do have to replace the rear brake cable. The end of the one I have is looking a little mangled from so many adjustments.

I want to paint my controller flat back ..... Or i actally have an almost exact match to the Tidal Force frame color. But I also feel the need to keep some sliver.... it matches my light and bell =P. Decisions... so many choices... so little time and money.

One reason why I chose to tidy things up is .... I contact the PATH Foundation group and told them how I was harrased by the cops last fall for riding an electric bike on the trail system out here. They said the support the cops because this is a "multi use path" and not a "bike path" So the Ga codes on electric bikes dont apply to multi used pathers so Motorized vehicles arent allow except for motorized wheel chairs for the handicapped. Im going to continue to ride but I dont want to draw attention to my bike or myself. Im also going to use my Full Face Motorcross helment only when Im doing street riding. Im going to get a nice regular gay bike helmet for when Im riding on the trail.

Im also tempted to look into getting a PAS system so people don recognize my hand motion using the thumb throttle. I dont speed on the trail so PAS seems like a good alternative for true assit up to 20MPH. I have to talk to Lyen about setting it up.
 
it sound good plan, I agree get PAS hookup with the Lyen and it would be very stealthy. I have on 1st ebike with PAS equiped. The Police never harassed or anybody notice me running ebike. You might want get a geared hub motor and they are tiny size really hard notice it. (350watt Bafang or other brand from ebikekit)

A couple month ago, I went 40mph on iron horse trail and the CHP (California Highway Patrol) motorcycle followed me. I don't have the rear mirror and didn't notice police was following me. Sudden, He appear in my left side and I was like OH SHIT! I am in hot water but surprised he didn't harass or give me a ticket for over speed on trail. That trail has the post says limit speed at 20mph motorized even ebike. WHEW

So your area seems prejudice against these ebike because of someone else abused in trail system. Who knows

I hated ride ebike on traffic roads (Bike lane) because other day someone happened have rage driving and pissed him off tried hit me and run away. It was close call like 1 foot apart the vehicle to my ebike. I determined said myself NEVER AGAIN! I rather stick with the trail system where it has no traffic (cars) around. I felt more safer.
 
chroot said:
I hated ride ebike on traffic roads (Bike lane) because other day someone happened have rage driving and pissed him off tried hit me and run away. It was close call like 1 foot apart the vehicle to my ebike. I determined said myself NEVER AGAIN! I rather stick with the trail system where it has no traffic (cars) around. I felt more safer.

That's one of the reasons I bought a GoPro HD Hero. It's evidence of anything that might happen while you're riding. GCinDC recently posted a video of a driver that shot past him and then tried to pinch him to stop him from passing.

Ambrose
 
Exactly, I have thought about getting a GoPro HD for anything evidence used against the driver if something happen to me.

Problem is that I am deaf and what if the driver really pissed, honk or whatever at me thinking I am ignore him and possibly worse angry then hit me as his vehicle as weapon. You can see nasty there BIGGER problem for me.
 
Sucks you can't get those trail folks to bend a little if you promise to behave. I just saw a comment in a local newspaper article about fast riding commuters on the bike path. Gee I wonder who they are refering to?

I'm getting so tired of oblivious joggers with ipods turned up full volume that weave down the center of the multi use path like it's a one way trail for one jogger only. I sure have the regulars trained to walk to the right nowdays though. About a month ago I noticed one very old guy that acted very scared. He kept stepping 6 feet off the trail into the dirt when I went by. I stopped the next day and talked to him, and assured him I'd slow down more when I saw him etc. He said he'd just got hit by a bike again recently and it was the third time. Guys in lycra riding in a tuck don't look up and hit him. Sheesh, all us commuters have straight bars and watch where we are going. But we get tarred by the brush anyway thanks to agro lycra riders.

The worst incident I ever had on the path in three years was when a pack of 20 jarheads out for PT thought they owned the path. Thought for a miniute there I was going to get stomped good. But they were being assholes and I told em so. They were running in a pack 4 abreast leaving no room for others, making moms with baby carriages get off the path while they passed. Jerks. Next day I saw them running elsewhere. Maybe I was not the only old fart that told em to stuff it.
 
chroot said:
Exactly, I have thought about getting a GoPro HD for anything evidence used against the driver if something happen to me.

Problem is that I am deaf and what if the driver really pissed, honk or whatever at me thinking I am ignore him and possibly worse angry then hit me as his vehicle as weapon. You can see nasty there BIGGER problem for me.

Do you have any way of letting people know that you are deaf? Perhaps a sign on the back of your bike? That might help keep cars away from you.
 
Dogman You hit it right on the nail. I think the Path Foundation people thinks that ebikes arent well matched to the path system. Their legal speed is only 20mph and i suppose thats to fast to allow joggers, bikers, walkers, roller bladers, and other people to get out of the way or react. I setup my bike this year to disengage the motor with the pull of the ebrakes like it should be from the beginning. In my 3 years of having an ebike Ive never use ebrake levers until now. Alot of the time I lock in a speed with cruise control to match my cadence and get in the zone and cruise. But something in the back of my mind told me if I have a mode where this bike is legal and is setup according to state law to where if I get in a bind Im totally covered cause I was abiding by the law. But we do have a huge huge problem with joggers and cyclist that ride with ipods in there ears and look at you crazy when you startle them. You can give them 3 feet of space when passing they still think your an ass hole. I think they are punishing ebikes for the stupidity of a past incident or dont want to start any incidents when ebikes go bad and out of control. There are tons of fit lycra that ride in packs or individually that think they own the whole trail. They achieve marathon speeds. I paced one that sustained 25-28mph for several miles. That is way to fast for a multi use path. 20mph should be the highest. And true average cyclist Ive met average 16-18mph. Even when Im electrified and reach 22-23 mph pedaling along with the motor I think its to fast for the trail. There are plenty of times where i see joggers or walkers and I slow down and let them know Im going to pass them. Even if there is a people going in both directions and they are going to meet and clog the path I slow down and wait for them to pass each other before I pass. Some of these lycras are hauling ass you dont see or hear them until the last minute. And they will weave and cut through trail pedestrian traffic like they have "trail rage". Like its a game to see if i can make it through that crowd of people before they meet and frock up my pace. I actually see them stand up on the pedals a pedal hard to get a boost of speed to cut people off. There is no rule for not walking or riding two abreast but it is common courtesy to step or ride in single file if someone is trying to pass you and they announce them selves. Thats why I personally want a horn to let people know Im coming up behind them although the motor is a dead give away. I swear this motor is throwing its voice and echos down the trail.
 
I would love post as "deaf" so the drivers can know that I cant hear the sounds. Problem it would put me bigger vulnerability target I.E. bully? attack me? hit-run? When they see "deaf" and it might make it worse? Who knows.

I rather take your idea as using 2 of the GoPro HD camera front and back. It would gives me powerful evidence one picture worth 1000 words against theirs.


ambroseliao said:
Do you have any way of letting people know that you are deaf? Perhaps a sign on the back of your bike? That might help keep cars away from you.
 
These pack riding lycras give all of us a bad name :evil:

chroot said:
I would love post as "deaf" so the drivers can know that I cant hear the sounds. Problem it would put me bigger vulnerability target I.E. bully? attack me? hit-run? When they see "deaf" and it might make it worse? Who knows.

I rather take your idea as using 2 of the GoPro HD camera front and back. It would gives me powerful evidence one picture worth 1000 words against theirs.
The video evidence is no good to you when you're dead though...
If I saw a rider with a sign on them that said deaf I would give them more room, just like I extend more courtesy to a guy with a white cane or any other disability. But then if I'm in my car in slow moving traffic and see a motor bike coming up I'll move over a little in my lane to let him through where as others would do the opposite to block him. I guess asshole and road ragers aren't courteous by definition :roll:
 
@Hyena- Yes, Your right, I would be pretty dead and driver might hit and run away. The police would relieve the video recorded and find the license plate. The driver would be pretty dead too as end up long time in prison.

I will be in heaven and watching him suffer.
 
Back
Top