How-To: Meanwell 63-84V CV/CC Charger

http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/356141/LINEAGEPOWER/CAR1248FPB-1A.html
 
Hi db
I see it now, thank you! This looks like a neat unit; the specs pretty dang good all around, and the weight is very considerate at 1.2 kg. The sticky-wicket is that when we add up two of these to create the required voltage we’ll have a potential to pull about 25A @ 100VAC, or 22.2A @ 115VAC (converted to the Meanwell units), and that my friend would be over the 20A breaker limit. For this reason I did not consider 1000W or greater PSUs, instead opting for 600W (with two in series), and even that is a bit on the edge. Although it could be perfect for your setup! :)

The factors to consider:

  • RV parks in the USA traditionally offer 30A or 50A service at 110-120VAC.
  • Motel Rooms: There should be 20A service in the bathroom.
  • In the home or apartment, the bathroom and laundry should be rated at 20A (which I suppose pretty much explains why 1875W hair dryers are common).

Forgot to note: I prefer the way the fan is mounted at the end of the unit and pulling air through lengthwise :) as opposed the S and SP units pulling bottom-to-top, inhibiting direct stacking.

Good stuff, KF
 
I think these are intended to be used multiple units in a 1U high rack, hot swap-able. I think they have some control features since they would need to work well in parallel. Maybe they would be able to control power? I have several but have not had time to play with them. Andreyum(sp?) on ES is using one. Search for Chreokee PSU on ES.
 
I hope this isn't too OT, but...the original meanwell-mod thread is very long, with the best nuggets scattered about, and this thread seems to be more complete and compact as a reference. icecube57 was kind enough to return my PM, and here it is (noobs be aware that MWs and their clones seem to have minor variations over time, last years MW is not exactly identical to this years model):

(edit: OK, purchased a 48V 7.3A 350W MW, or what seems to be a rather good meanwell clone from an ebay vender called e_lightning, I can't find that ebay vendor anymore, but these can occasionally be found for under $50).

I swapped out the TH1 thermal resistor that controls the fan and I installed a 1000ohm 1/4w resistor. This keeps the fan always running... but the fans speed is in direct relation to the voltage you are running the supply at. Lower the voltage the lower the speed. The Higher the Voltage the Higher the Speed.

I replaced the svr1 which is right by the LED and output with a blue 10k 15turn trim pot. This will allow you to tune to around 17-18v up to 56-58v with great precision.

I removed and replace r37 and r33 with two 1200ohm resistors on top of the board and I paralleled another 2200ohm resistor across those two on the bottom of the board. I used 1/2w but thats what I had. It supposed to come out to 470ohm but there is something else in the circuit thats dropping it down to an even 400ohms when I check it with my Vm. Everyone else seems to put a trimp pot across r33/r37. The higher the value the higher the current limit is. It almost seems linear to wattage. Again I was using the resistors I had avaliable.

So probably in short to make it simple for you remove r33 and r37 and drop 500 and 1200 ohm resistor. This higher value will probably reduce your output wattage a bit to around 300-350w but i will also put it in a safer operating range close to the rating of the power supply.

With these 3 mods in my configuration its locked in at around 10A.

edit: Anyone who upgrades to LiPo is usually interested in performance, so it appears the most common LiPo pack voltages are around 44V and 66V. Kingfish's thread is about modding a meanwell to charge a pack in the 72V range (actual range 15S up to 20S), and icecube57's post (which I have just added here) is for the 48V range (actual range is 5S up to 14S).

Two common 6S bricks in series makes 12S, and if charging to 4.1V per cell, that would be 49.2V. An 18S pack charged to 4.1V per cell would be 73.8V

The cheapest plug-and-play LiPo charging set-up I recommend is a $40 25A power supply (metal case + fan), and a $40 Turnigy 10A LiPo charger for 6S. Its adequate for daily bulk charging if you don't mind the daily parallel/series wiring harness swapping for 12S/18S, and its even more cumbersome for the occasional individual balance charge of each brick. Adding a second Turnigy charger to speed-up occasional 12S balance charging is only another $40.

When bulk-charging an 18S / 66V LiPo pack, Kingfish's Meanwell mod is the cheapest option, and also eliminates the annoying daily series/parallel harness swapping.
 
Meanwell HRP-600

Pals and compatriots –
I received two units of this series yesterday; the 24 and 48V versions. Tonight I had the opportunity to hook these devices up and review them.


I wish to chronicle the timeline here rather than in the review mainly because I had already provided a similar timeline for the SP/S assembly. Some information may be repeated here from the review.

Disclaimer: These HRP-600 units when combined in series still create a 63-84V charging assembly, therefore qualify as worthy of discussion under this here thread <nods>.

  • HRP-600 24 + 48 = 63.3V PSU. No Load = 0.20A @ 121.1 VAC
  • HRP-600-48: Tested Range = 39.1 to 58.2 VDC. Set to 39.1.
  • HRP-600-24: Tested Range = 20.6 to 30.49 VDC. Set to 24.2.
  • After assembly into series, fine tuning was required to reach 63.3 V. No Load now = 0.18A @ 120.8 VAC

Meanwell-HRP-600-5.jpg

Amp meter connected to VAC.

Charging:
At 9:00 PM sharp, 15S6P LiPo pack was at 58.0V. No mods were made to the HRP units; they were assembled and put to use right out of the box (sans voltage adjustments). The charger was put on the pack, the voltage jumped to 58.8V (monitoring per CA), assembly current goes to 8.1A @ 118.8 VAC. Fans take off loudly relative to the SP/S assembly. For the first brief minute there was some strange whining, and possibly buzzing, but it went away. The first ½ hour was loud – however the pack was most definitely charging! I moved the amp meter around a bit and received a better reading; it was actually pulling 8.7A. The charging cable was 14 AWG that I had lying around; I thought it would make for a good experiment to see how it handled the current: It became very warm but not hot. Note to self: Use 10 AWG for in the field.

After about ½ hour as the pack voltage reached 62.8 VDC (with the charge still on) the assembly was pulling 9 Amps; I noted this figure was slowly climbing as charging progressed, though I do not know why. Back-calculating, the assembly is using about 1 kW of power which is about double the SP/S assembly. The power usage is better than I had hoped, and not at double the maximum limit for both units. The 48V unit was definitely warmer than the 24V unit in one spot where the heat sink must have been, although it was by no means hot. Except for the fan noise, the process is going smoothly.

At 9:35 PM there is a marked change as the pack hits 62.9V! The fans begin to quaver and downwind off the full speed, although it is still quite loud. The current begins to drop off at a linear rate below 9A, then 8A…

At 9:42 PM the fans make a dramatic change in speed and drop to about 30%; it’s well above a whisper though welcomed nonetheless. The assembly current is now dropping below 5A.

At 9:51 PM the fans stop! The CA says the battery pack is at 63.4V, with the assembly current down to 2.75A. I elect to disconnect the charger; doing so the pack voltage drops to 63.1V and the assembly current goes to a no load state – drawing 0.19A. I decide to reconnect the charger and wait out to see what happens if we leave it alone. The pack is essentially charged at this point, less than one hour which is truly quite impressive.

About 10:25 PM I check the pack and the CA says it’s 63.5V. The assembly current is now pulling less than 0.5A and still dropping. Pulled the plug to check the real pack voltage – and it’s 63.5V! Shite I’ve never taken my pack this high before, however a quick calculation says the cell average is about 4.233 V so I shall not worry; we are done. :mrgreen:

I wish to conclude that this HRP series is most excellent for charging LiPos. The caveat, as I stated in the review is that we need to monitor when the assembly goes into trickle mode so we can pull the plug. By this estimate, I expect my charging times will be reduced by at least 50%. I am most pleased.

Maybe next year I’ll upgrade to the HRP-1000. Whatcha think? :twisted:

Huntin’ fer a Pepsi machine, KF
 
Did you measure output current at all?

It is the current going in to the pack I am concerned with rather than what the charge assembly is taking from the mains. To me, that figure is immaterial, I want to know the charge current relative to pack capacity and C rating
 
Very nice, KF :mrgreen: Do you have a link for the vendor you used? Do unplug the Pepsi machine & plug in your charger at the 7-11?
 
Neil: Output current = No; based on the VAC usage it could never be more than 1 kW, though I suspect it was at least 600W. My pack is 15S6P Zippy FlightMax, each brick rated at 15/2C and 5000mAh. It can handle it. The Amp Meter that I use for some reason will not measure DC amps, which I admit is odd. If you know of a device that can do it, I’m all ears friend :)

An educated guess, based upon the efficiency of the series (88-89%) suggests it could have been 955W. Given that the pack went from 58.0V to 63.1V in 51 minutes has me to believe the efficiency is valid. I checked the pack this morning and it is still holding at 63.5V.

Db: I listed the supplier in the Review. Though here it is again my friend: Power Supply Emporium. They had the most competitive pricing stateside and didn’t waste time processing; it was shipped out right away.

I did look at other models though once we step outside the SP/S world things become quite a bit more expensive which encourages shopping around. BTW – yesterday (a day after receiving the PSUs) I received a really well-produced thick catalog from PSE loaded with spec sheets of Meanwell and other manufacturers. This is one is for the library, or coffee table depending on your creature comforts 8)

Pepsi machine reference: If you read my thread on Going to California 2010 (in my sig), the first day I ran out of power after facing a stiff headwind about a mile outside my first town. There was a supermarket at the edge, so I headed there and immediately began hunting down the AC outlets. Found a Pepsi machine and plugged in next to it. I was there for 90 minutes and yet only gained enough power from the gimpy (and with the debased mod) SP/S charging assembly to pick up another 20 miles where I had to repeat the process at a stop-&-go type gas station. Thus developed the initial angst to address this pesky and (IMM) flawed assembly :evil: ~ grrrr & double-grrrr!

I think that today, we have done that. Honestly, I can’t gush enough how pleased I am: The HRP-600 does it correctly right out of the box!

Cheers, KF
PS - Don't take my word for it: Please experiment with other models! :)
 
Kingfish said:
The Amp Meter that I use for some reason will not measure DC amps, which I admit is odd. If you know of a device that can do it, I’m all ears friend :)

All the cheap DVM's I have ever owned can measure DC amps, usually up to 10 amps..some 20...even the cheap $0.99 e-vbay ones from China do 10 amps DC.

As far as I was aware the wattage rating of these units is based on their outputs, so a 48 volt unit supplying 10 amps would be a 480Watt supplyat that rate it may be drawing 500 Watts from the mains, it may be drawing 600 and be very efficient...but irrelevant, I want to know what current is flowing into my pack...if I have a 5Ah pack and I want to charge it at 2C, i want to see 10 amps on my meter, not faff around with the supply input power, work out charger efficiency PFC to find out what current goes in to my pack. Rather like going to the fuel pumps with your car and measuring how much power it takes to pump the petrol to the car, then finding out the specs of the pump to work out how much fuel you put in the car...yes possible...but very long winded
 
There are DC clamp meters as well, they are just more expensive (well the accurate ones are anyway).

For opportunity charging - I use a piggyback plug so anything else can plug in as well. Fortunatly 240V 10A is common here in Aus, with most places running at *least* a 15A breaker and 2.5mm2 to the points (dunno what that is in AWG) you can pull some pretty serious amps without issues.
 
The meter I have now is a Fluke Corporation 322 AC Clamp Meter; it does not measure DC current - although I thought it did when I bought it. Sadly a decent DC clamp meter begins around $330 USD; 3X the cost of my 322-unit. It's not a hi-pri right now. I am happy as a clam with what I've got; it charges fast. Neil, yer on yer own to figure it out with the data that I've provided :wink:

Awesome day for a ride! KF
 
Kingfish said:
The meter I have now is a Fluke Corporation 322 AC Clamp Meter; it does not measure DC current - although I thought it did when I bought it. Sadly a decent DC clamp meter begins around $330 USD; 3X the cost of my 322-unit. It's not a hi-pri right now.



Well invest $0.99 on ebay and th cost of a battery and you'll have your self a usable DC meter//although not Clamp on, for less than $5


Kingfish said:
color=#400080]Neil[/color], yer on yer own to figure it out with the data that I've provided :wink:

Well for my needs I do not need to, just thought that if you were doing that ( measuring DC amps) then it would have been easier for you in the earlier experiments to balance the parallel set of Meanwells. I happily charge at 9 amp and 83 volt from my pair of S-350-48's and have no need for a bigger charger. it would have been interesting to see the figures if you had them, but that is all :lol:
 
Hillhater, I checked HK and the max voltage any watt meter is 60V… unless I missed one :roll:

OK Neil, spill buddy – tell us where to find these uber-thrifty DC meters! Give us the link; I’m dying to know :lol:

Re-charged:
I made one tiny adjustment to the output voltage and upped it by 0.3V to 63.6 so that when the fans shut off the pack will be at 63.3V (my target). Tonight the pack took 1:40 hrs to charge from 54.9 to 63.3V after a 45 mile commute into Seattle and back. Also upgraded the charge wires from 14 AWG to 10 AWG; they were barely warm throughout the high part of the cycle.

~KF
 
Hillhater said:
$25 HK Wattmeter will tell you all you need to know on charging, Max -min Volts, amps, watts, Ahrs, Whrs etc etc :roll:


Only 60v though


DVM's


I originally saw them months ago, and did a post on ES
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=25257

Still on E-bay

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390171973976

sorry they are £0.99 not $0.99 Only 10 Amps, and you have to buy your own battery...I bought 4 in the end, and then another 6 for various mates.., they are great value and no worse than most you buy in any of the tool supply type places
 
Ah Neil -

<bowing low in your general direction>
Regardless of the low~ish current rating, you are the thrift-meister. :wink:
Now if only we could parallel them :twisted:

I think what we need to do is branch this thread and begin anew to build/source a good 100VDC/100A Watt meter. Whatcha think?

Good job, KF
 
Kingfish said:
Ah Neil -


Now if only we could parallel them :twisted:


Did try that...but check them in series first, and see which ones have similar or the same reading when in series first

Kingfish said:
I think what we need to do is branch this thread and begin anew to build/source a good 100VDC/100A Watt meter. Whatcha think?

Good job, KF

See to remember there is one somewhere...cant find the link though
 
geetarboy said:
Does the 'mini meanwell limiter board' solve the problem on the meanwell 'SP' model to handle CC ? Thanks
I would ask fechter directly as I do not have that information. I personally do not use the SP units anymore; maybe I should sell them off. :idea:

~KF
 
geetarboy said:
Does the 'mini meanwell limiter board' solve the problem on the meanwell 'SP' model to handle CC ? Thanks

My SP-500-24 units were modded for CC with no problems.

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=27199&start=240#p463280

I have the parts for 5 limiters sitting in a box that I'm probably never going to use now...
 
With these things, in my opinion, if it's not an fairly simple solution, just get a new one. Your time is probably worth more than the $35 to replace it, that's my rational. Lol, that is the problem with Chinese production, they make things so inexpensive that it isn't worth it to get the item repaired. Landfills are suffering (as in multiplying) as a result.

On another note, let me give a word of caution(/common sense :roll: ) to everybody who uses these supplies.

DON'T try to tighten the contacts while the power is on..... Tonight I was charging my battery, and decided to tighten up the screws on the AC input lines. As I was tightening the Neutral line(with my finger on the screwdriver shaft), I touched the metal case with my other hand to support it. Lol, one hand on Neutral, and one on Ground makes for a not so pleasant complete circuit.

I also wanted to mention a good experience I had with a seller. I recently ordered 3 copy Meanwells from a supplier on Aliexpress, for about $35 each. They came within 5 DAYS of me submitting payment, via DHL at no extra charge (even though it listed free standard international shipping). The board is well built, and the solder joints all seem well done. It has the SVR2 and R37 pads as well, which is a nice change from some eBay suppliers. These are fully functional as CC/CV once modified (no hiccup mode, or weird sounds). I am very impressed. Here is the link, enjoy.

http://www.aliexpress.com/product-fm/524661980-350W-12V-24V-36V-48V-power-supply-wholesalers.html
 
EVInfinity wrote: Here is the link, enjoy...

Thanks for posting the Allexpress link, I haven't seen that low of a price on Meanwells for quite a while. :D Unfortunately I came across this about a month late and they are now out of stock. Oh well they come and go fairly often. :|
 
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