Start of my E-Cruiser Project

torker said:

Yea +2 on the washers inside. If that is a steel frame it should be no prob to spread it a little more. You did say you are going to run singlespeed or no pedals so you could do like I did and file/mill the flat on the axle. I gained another 1/4 inch doing this. I pretty much had to as my rear drops are alum. and I was not about to spread those. I have to run a singlespeed sprocket now but no bother for me.

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Thanks. Do you have any pictures for this procedure?

torker said:

Yea +2 on the washers inside.

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Washers on the inside for a 9C ? Really ? Looks like I need to pull my wheel off

Cool looking bike E-GE. Look forward to seeing the final build.

J

What I did was use a grinder with a cutoff wheel and very carefully cut the axle flat deeper and finished it off with a file. It is the non wire side so it was easy to keep slipping a d washer on to check for fit. I can only fit a singlespeed sprocket now. It did gain me at least a quarter inch so I could run 1/8 inch steel homebrew torque arms on the inside of the drops. Sorry I don't have the best pics.

Thanks for explaining. First I'm going to make homegrown torque-arms as well, but probably will put them on the outside of the frame.

E-GE said:

Thanks for explaining. First I'm going to make homegrown torque-arms as well, but probably will put them on the outside of the frame.

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Yea, you don't need torque arms on the inside just washers to keep the small flats on the axle from digging into the frame.

Finally some time to work on the e-cruiser again . The goal for this day was to eliminate the steel plate, shape the mold and make a first attempt with epoxy.

Here is the bike with the steel "Nirve" plate:


After attacking the frame with the grinder it looked like this:


and:


The idea is to create the tank from one shape, then cut it into two pieces. I want the the tank to look like a regular gasoline tank that fits the controller and the batteries.

Tank mold:


Tank mold on the bike:




I've never worked with epoxy before and found it quite difficult to maintain the shape of the mold properly with the epoxy.


I was hoping for a much better finish, but hope to fix this with sanding and filling...


Hope to be back soon

Why do you want to get rid of the pedals? They actually will come in handy for really steep hills and such.

Plus, taking away the pedals changes it legally, probably (not that I'm trying to steer the conversation that way).


Overall, that looks like a great bike. At first I thought it was a Worksman Cruiser.

Well there are several reasons why I took off the pedals:
1. I wanted to make the bike full electric without pedal assistance. It's becoming sort of an electric scooter instead of an e-bike.
2. I'm not a gear guy, so taking of the pedals would be much easier for me.
3. I live in the Netherlands and here are no hills whatsoever.

The Worksman cruiser has similar looks, but has a bigger gap where the tank could go. I guess the Worksman frame would be a little easier to fit all the parts. Maybe next project

I just fitted the front suspension fork and I'm quite happy with the looks so far:

Another day in the garage made me ducktape the pieces together and finally ride the bike (first time with proper brake).
I think some of the ducktapers around here would be proud of me

Besides ducktaping I've been working on the following:
-Installed new headset to accomidate the new front shock fork
-Installed new disk brake 180mm, mount and lever

Result after ducktaping:


The maximum speed I could reach was 42km/h (26MPH) according the CA. I currently only have the front disk brake working, but the disk became very hot after some fast stops. At higher speeds I could hear some noises that I'm not that happy with. One noise came from the front wheel. I think I will need to get the wheel trued and align the diskbrake better. At the rear wheel you can hear a noise coming from the spokes. This wheel has been trued already, but I found out that there is a slight bump in the rim I guess I'll have to find a new rim for the 9C wheel.

Here you can see a vid of the wobbeling wheel (before it was trued):
[youtube]OW8iDzyCjIs[/youtube]

I'll hope to work on the epoxy tank next week and desolder the "cruise control" feature on the Infineon controller.

You really can't get away with just a front brake on those things. Too heavy and too powerful. 185 on the front (or even 200) and 160 or good calipers on the rear would really help the stopping.
otherDoc

I've got the 180mm (edited that in my previous post) on the front and I'm about to place a 160mm disk brake on the rearwheel. I think that should be sufficient...

docnjoj said:

You really can't get away with just a front brake on those things. Too heavy and too powerful. 185 on the front (or even 200) and 160 or good calipers on the rear would really help the stopping.
otherDoc

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