A2B Metro - www.ultramotor.com - Video Page4

the controller has to be bypassed to up the performance on the Metro.. it soft starts and limits current up to aprox 10 km/h, keeping power below 500w, then above 10km/h peaks up to 1000w.... i tried it at 48v and the top speed is higher but the soft start is still ever present and limitting.. only way around it as far as i can tell right now is to open up the motor and gut out the controller, run wires outside the hub and juice it up.

The motor has lots of potential.. it's just starved to legal power.
 
Ypedal said:
the controller has to be bypassed to up the performance on the Metro.. it soft starts and limits current up to aprox 10 km/h, keeping power below 500w, then above 10km/h peaks up to 1000w.... i tried it at 48v and the top speed is higher but the soft start is still ever present and limitting.. only way around it as far as i can tell right now is to open up the motor and gut out the controller, run wires outside the hub and juice it up.

The motor has lots of potential.. it's just starved to legal power.

Why not modify the existing controller? Perhaps a Fechter type of person could figure it out?
 
marty said:
Ypedal said:
the controller has to be bypassed to up the performance on the Metro.. it soft starts and limits current up to aprox 10 km/h, keeping power below 500w, then above 10km/h peaks up to 1000w.... i tried it at 48v and the top speed is higher but the soft start is still ever present and limitting.. only way around it as far as i can tell right now is to open up the motor and gut out the controller, run wires outside the hub and juice it up.

The motor has lots of potential.. it's just starved to legal power.

Why not modify the existing controller? Perhaps a Fechter type of person could figure it out?


^^ not really much point in this instance seeing YPedal MaN will be fitting this
bike up with a 3220 Astro and a pile of lipos in comming weeks right
Ypedal MaN!?! :lol: :mrgreen:

KiM
 
NorthernMike

On the Metro, the front & rear packs have same capacity, so I'm assuming same Sanyo cells, yes.
On the Excel they will likely be different cell types, and perhaps not Sanyos; and forget the Power/Energy thing, sorry, a distraction. What I mean is the following;
I expect front pack(in-frame) will have a higher available discharge(and recharge) rate than the rear pack, probably a higher Amp limit than the rear. The rear pack will never? power the controller directly; only the front pack will do so. Just guessing that the rear pack will maximise energy density over discharge rate(see below)?? Or ...perhaps a little LiPo in the rear pack??

Hmm, just found this:

• IDEP Technology. ‘Intelligent Dual Energy Power’ system uses a removable, portable lithium-ion battery to store electricity and supply it at a stable rate to an internal lithium-ion battery for:
- Greater range. - Battery life.
- Ease of charging: the portable power pack will recharge the internal battery. Charging one battery(secondary) charges the other(primary).

•Battery. Lithium ion battery technology. Main battery 48 V; secondary battery 33.3 V.

from here:
http://web.me.com/bfmmarketing1/blackfootonline/Ultra_Motor_A2B.html
<><><>

First time I've seen the 33v reference; what's that about? is it getting boosted from 33v to 48v to charge the primary pack?
One way to isolate the pack I suppose.

As I recall, one or both packs may not be of Japanese origin, though I think they're both from the same company...

Grain of salt time; heard these titbits here and there, so may all be bogus :wink:

I think we'll all know the real scoop before years-end.

It feels a little funny being on something light enough to still be a a "Bike" and having feet on platforms, no pedals.
I DO think I could get used to it though. :D

Just realized I've veered off Metro onto Excel; is there an Excel thread yet?
 
At the 900 km mark, the freewheel is acting up, sticking and causing the chain to jump.. I plan to replace it with a shimano, always found the stock unit loud while ratcheting so it's good in a way..

I have replaced the seat with a CCM gel seat, much better, and looks improved too.

Battery pack charges to 41.8v and holds 40v well into 3ah so the pack is doing great with 30 % DOD cycles so far..

I hope the freewheel is not too hard to get off. ..
 
What it look like CCM gel seat? I googled and couldnt find anything.

Ypedal said:
I have replaced the seat with a CCM gel seat, much better, and looks improved too.
 
Passed the 1100 km mark, December 2 is officially the end of my biking season for 2010, i can handle the cold temperatures but the roads are a mess, wednesday and thursday this week i went to work on the Metro and when i got home had to hose it down, in the picture below the bike is white but it was brown 20 seconds before...

Grit in the chain ( you can feel it grinding and digs into your nerves... so i just motored to save the chain and shimano freewheel i just installed.. the original freewheel seized up about 2 weeks ago.. )

Other than that, the bike has been running flawlessly, i am very impressed with the weather resistance of this bike, not sure why but my right foot always gets soaked, pedaling or not, the fenders need to be extended just a tiny bit more... or a better tire that i am installing next year for sure..
 

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Ypedal said:
the controller has to be bypassed to up the performance on the Metro.. it soft starts and limits current up to aprox 10 km/h, keeping power below 500w, then above 10km/h peaks up to 1000w.... i tried it at 48v and the top speed is higher but the soft start is still ever present and limitting.. only way around it as far as i can tell right now is to open up the motor and gut out the controller, run wires outside the hub and juice it up.

The motor has lots of potential.. it's just starved to legal power.
I rode my first commercial eBike today... the 2010 A2B. I was really disappointed in its hill climbing ability & its slow-soft start -pickup/acceleration is slow. Also, I think those "flat shaped" Kenda tires ride weird (not rounded enough) vs reg. bicycle tires I'm used to riding on.

Ypedal, if I could get an extra A2B motor would it fit in the front A2B dropout? I assume "no", since the front dropout is probably 100mm??? :?: The guy has an extra A2B motor, so maybe I could get good performance if I used 2 of these if it would work in the front fork too :?: OR, is the A2B Front Fork too weak to take an extra motor anyway?

I could use a different geared motor too, but I don't know if the sus-fork could take it??? Someone with a high post count on ES says with torque arms on both front fork arms, if it's a decent sus-fork, says motors can safely be mounted in sus-forks too :?:

Any ideas or comments :idea: :?:
 
Anything over 36v 20amps should be on the rear imo, yes i've done 48v setups on front forks but after having had a few " incidents " over the years, i'm now firmly against anything high power on the front fork.

The A2B motors are all rear as far as i know, for 135mm / 150mm(disk) so putting them on a front fork it out..

The motors themselves are capable of good power, but the internal controller needs to be bypassed.. !!
 
Have you tried use 9C or xlyte motor on A2B with Lyen controller? It probably too much work upgrade or major work on electric wiring setup.




Ypedal said:
The motors themselves are capable of good power, but the internal controller needs to be bypassed.. !!
 
Ypedal said:
Anything over 36v 20amps should be on the rear imo, yes i've done 48v setups on front forks but after having had a few " incidents " over the years, i'm now firmly against anything high power on the front fork.

The motors themselves are capable of good power, but the internal controller needs to be bypassed.. !!
Thanks for noting your experience w/FF. Were you using two torque arms on the FF? :?:

Do you know of examples of FF failures when using 2 torque arms :?:

Have you decided to bypass your controller yet & just "upgrade" :?: Or, you don't really want to do that mod before "failure" repair :?: EDIT: Ahhh, I see your reasoning & answer here:
Ypedal said:
if i still own it by then i till get modded, but not for now since i primarily use it for friends and wet weather commuting :D
 
Oh I understand, sound good plan and let us know whenever your A2B starts modding in the future. 8)
 
I've had 3 incidents in all involving front forks, 1 was expected and failed while power testing with wheel of the ground, applied brakes and whamo... the other 2 were on solid thick flat acceptable forks that should not have failed and i tightened the axle nuts personally and know for a fact they were tight but still spun out ( caused by fork flex ) .. neither had torque arms at the time....

regardless, anything over 500w needs to go on the rear imo.
 
Ypedal said:
regardless, anything over 500w needs to go on the rear imo.


+1 :wink:
 
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