Here's the 6 fet diagram if that helps any. Can't remember who originally posted it.
View attachment 6fet.pdf
View attachment 6fet.pdf
Instant Start 18 fet Infineon Boards are here...
- Thread starter methods
- Start date
My regen is acting up. I will be using regen and it will be slowing me hard for a corner then It will just quit and I will have to squeas hard and use both v brakes to the max to make the corner! Some times is will turn on and off. I know its inside the 18fet controler because I havent fixed my CA yet so the light get brighter when the e-brake is aplied! Its actualy dangerous on time it didnt work so I grabed bothe brakes hard and then it kicked in a bit later and locked up the rear wheel.
steveo
100 kW
Arlo1 said:
how are the drop outs on your bike... they must be getting owned if your going that hard on the regen ...
-steveo
Have you ever seen the pics? I think they are the toughest on endlesssphere! 3 times the stock thickness with a grade 8 pinch bolt and now I had to add a tensioner to each side to hold the axle from sliding forward! Its like riding a crotch rocket arond I love it!steveo said:
steveo
100 kW
Arlo1 said:
gota link? ... love to see it!
Heres A link to my bmx build thread. http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=9966&start=15 I just welded the proper seat for the chain tentioners tonight and did a profesional job and I forgot to take pics so I will tomorow and post them here too. I thing its now time to solder the stock shunt solid and leave the .250 shunt on the bottom at the same time and I will play with block timer lol. Its going to either blow or hurt me but either way it will be fast anf fun!
steveo
100 kW
Arlo1 said:
wait till you get the newer 24 mosfet controller from me ... that 18 fet will feel outdated lol.... easy 80-100km/h
-steveo
Man Im doing 85 km/h on the flat now! remember the 120% speed setting works for me and I have 21 inch tires and 24s 10ah of 20c lipo. A123s sag to much :lol: I may try the 24 fet on the bmx if it ever comessteveo said:
but it is realy planed for the E- yamaha YSR build with a 12kw outrunner!Anyways took you a couple pics. I will get a helmet cam very soon.
Attachments
LightningEVAustralia
10 µW
Arlo1 said:Man Im doing 85 km/h on the flat now! remember the 120% speed setting works for me and I have 21 inch tires and 24s 10ah of 20c lipo. A123s sag to much :lol: I may try the 24 fet on the bmx if it ever comes
Anyways took you a couple pics. I will get a helmet cam very soon.
Was that sarcasm? "A123's sag to much" I'm running a 13.2v 9.2ah as a car starter, only drops to 11 volts under a 250A load.
LightningEVAustralia
10 µW
How does one get these controllers, and who thinks an IGBT version would have potential?
[/quote]LightningEVAustralia said:Arlo1 said:Man Im doing 85 km/h on the flat now! remember the 120% speed setting works for me and I have 21 inch tires and 24s 10ah of 20c lipo. A123s sag to much :lol: I may try the 24 fet on the bmx if it ever comes
Anyways took you a couple pics. I will get a helmet cam very soon.
Was that sarcasm? "A123's sag to much" I'm running a 13.2v 9.2ah as a car starter, only drops to 11 volts under a 250A load.
No I was serious. Nothing avalible to us beats lipo right now. I run lipo steveo runs a123 cells last I checked anyway. So under full load with a fresh pack I sag to 95 volts climding a hill looking at my CA with it reading 150 amps and 95 volts. I bet in the same instance I would be below 90 volts with a123 cells. So if steveo is trying to set a top speed record on a123 cells and only has 89 volts under full accel then he cant get as hi of speed!
steveo
100 kW
Hey speedfreaks ... 
I too am considering building lipo pack ... i presently have 5ah 36s turnigy... 150 amps peak... but i'm using my trusty a123s
but even my a123 at 145 nominal voltage ... @ 100 amps .. i sag to about 135v ... not to shabby ... i use like 4 guage wires..
oh ya .. and i can sleep at night when i charge over night
-steveo
I too am considering building lipo pack ... i presently have 5ah 36s turnigy... 150 amps peak... but i'm using my trusty a123s
but even my a123 at 145 nominal voltage ... @ 100 amps .. i sag to about 135v ... not to shabby ... i use like 4 guage wires..
oh ya .. and i can sleep at night when i charge over night
-steveo
why do you charge over night? Mine is charged in < one hour who cant find somethign to do for less then a hour to get their bike ready?steveo said:Hey speedfreaks ...
I too am considering building lipo pack ... i presently have 5ah 36s turnigy... 150 amps peak... but i'm using my trusty a123s
but even my a123 at 145 nominal voltage ... @ 100 amps .. i sag to about 135v ... not to shabby ... i use like 4 guage wires..
oh ya .. and i can sleep at night when i charge over night
-steveo
steveo
100 kW
Arlo1 said:why do you charge over night? Mine is charged in < one hour who cant find somethign to do for less then a hour to get their bike ready?steveo said:Hey speedfreaks ...
I too am considering building lipo pack ... i presently have 5ah 36s turnigy... 150 amps peak... but i'm using my trusty a123s
but even my a123 at 145 nominal voltage ... @ 100 amps .. i sag to about 135v ... not to shabby ... i use like 4 guage wires..
oh ya .. and i can sleep at night when i charge over night
-steveo
lol...
My chargers are crap dude ... i think there like 2-3 amp chargers... and my pack at 72v parrallel 8p 22s ... 18.4 ah LOL...
its ok ..... longer lasting a123's
-steveo
auraslip
10 MW
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2010
- Messages
- 3,535
Sorry to cross post this here, but a lot of people in this thread have a wealth of knowledge about these 18 fets.
Any ways... I was trouble shooting a dead throttle (hall sensor failure) and accidentally shorted the green(sp), and red(5v) throttle to the main GROUND on the board with the multimeter tips.
I've since gone over the board carefully with a multimeter, and found that it's not putting out any voltage after the 7805. In fact after rs11(the first resistor in the 5v system) it's only putting out 3.7v up to the 7805.
Rs11, the resistor my thumb is on gets wicked hot; enough to leave a discolor the pcb. Also around D0 (the orange diode in the bottom middle) is a little bit of heat markings.
If anyone can help I'll be eternally grateful, and If not perhaps I can sell the board for parts or pay someone to repair it. (or trade it for a smaller working board)
Any ways... I was trouble shooting a dead throttle (hall sensor failure) and accidentally shorted the green(sp), and red(5v) throttle to the main GROUND on the board with the multimeter tips.
I've since gone over the board carefully with a multimeter, and found that it's not putting out any voltage after the 7805. In fact after rs11(the first resistor in the 5v system) it's only putting out 3.7v up to the 7805.
Rs11, the resistor my thumb is on gets wicked hot; enough to leave a discolor the pcb. Also around D0 (the orange diode in the bottom middle) is a little bit of heat markings.
If anyone can help I'll be eternally grateful, and If not perhaps I can sell the board for parts or pay someone to repair it. (or trade it for a smaller working board)
I'm gonna guess that the 7805 is toast, and it is dragging down the output of the hot resistor to that voltage, causing that heat by too much current.
Can you desolder the 7805? If so, you may find the resistor is no longer hot and the voltage at the input pad to 7805 is now more like 12V or higher.
If the 7805 is bad, then there are several places to get one out of electronics you may already have laying around as scrap.
Also crossposted answer to original thread:
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=26123&start=0
Can you desolder the 7805? If so, you may find the resistor is no longer hot and the voltage at the input pad to 7805 is now more like 12V or higher.
If the 7805 is bad, then there are several places to get one out of electronics you may already have laying around as scrap.
Also crossposted answer to original thread:
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=26123&start=0
NeilP
1 GW
With regard to the X1 X2 X3 and DX3 pins on the board, for enabling reverse, and this text below from a previous thread.
It is mentioned that DX3 is connected to ground.
But by looking at the picture you can see two holes at DX3...that appear to be unpopulated space for a diode and also hole X3
Is it in fact X3 that we connect to ground to enable reverse? or do we short the two holes at DX3 together for reverse...if this is the case...then what does X3 do?
It is mentioned that DX3 is connected to ground.
But by looking at the picture you can see two holes at DX3...that appear to be unpopulated space for a diode and also hole X3
Is it in fact X3 that we connect to ground to enable reverse? or do we short the two holes at DX3 together for reverse...if this is the case...then what does X3 do?
NeilP
1 GW
Have been wondering that too. Some boards seem to have the P1 P2 and P3 in a line with the LED hole...so something to do with an LED display...and the LED inidcator mode and P3 mode settings in the controller software?
CR I believe is jumpered to ground to allow 'throttle hold' cruise control
Then there is:
TB?
SM?
SL is a Speed Limit override that is mentioned in the google doc and quote I put in above
DX3..well there is a pair of these and also the X3...still trying to find out about that and which one to use for the reverse function
XC, XC- Just found that...appears to be analogue speed output
Aux
I did read somewhere on one of the threads that Aux when connected to an LED powers up briefly when the controller starts up, and when under regen braking, so there was a thought given that it may drive a regen indicator of some sort
My 18 FET board is like this;
CR I believe is jumpered to ground to allow 'throttle hold' cruise control
Then there is:
TB?
SM?
SL is a Speed Limit override that is mentioned in the google doc and quote I put in above
DX3..well there is a pair of these and also the X3...still trying to find out about that and which one to use for the reverse function
XC, XC- Just found that...appears to be analogue speed output
Aux
I did read somewhere on one of the threads that Aux when connected to an LED powers up briefly when the controller starts up, and when under regen braking, so there was a thought given that it may drive a regen indicator of some sort
My 18 FET board is like this;
SkyCaptain
100 mW
- Joined
- May 25, 2009
- Messages
- 41
Are these controllers available to buy complete?
I cant solder too great, and I keep blowing up my 48v comtrollers trying to run them on 60v and 72v lol.
Would love to join you guys running the high power controllers. Would be nice to have something that can handle some volts and current.
I cant solder too great, and I keep blowing up my 48v comtrollers trying to run them on 60v and 72v lol.
Would love to join you guys running the high power controllers. Would be nice to have something that can handle some volts and current.
methods
1 GW
You dont need a giant 18 fet controller - you just need one that has 100V caps and 4110 fets.
Lyen started selling a line of controllers based on this thread. He has many flavors in the For Sale section. I think he also has a link in his signiture.
I am selling some 12 fet 40A controllers that work from 36V up to 88V with no mods to the regulator. They have 100V caps and 100V fets.
Look in the for sale section.
-methods
Lyen started selling a line of controllers based on this thread. He has many flavors in the For Sale section. I think he also has a link in his signiture.
I am selling some 12 fet 40A controllers that work from 36V up to 88V with no mods to the regulator. They have 100V caps and 100V fets.
Look in the for sale section.
-methods
The Mighty Volt
1 MW
Does anyone know where I could buy a blank Infineon board?? Thanks.
zEEz
1 kW
The Mighty Volt said:
You could try ecrazyman ... I got 1x 12 fet, and a 6 and a 36 fet without fets ...
