(iZip Zuma) vs (Pedego Cruiser) vs (Prodeco Phantom X)

Women's iZip Zuma on sale (today only) at cowboom.com (BestBuy's Outlet) for $869.99 + $5.00 shipping:
http://www.cowboom.com/deal-of-the-day.cfm
 
tuxman said:
Glad you like it. So far I've put over 500 miles on mine and the brakes have settled down. The brakes are still noisy, but will stop on a dime even when wet.

Take the pads out and file a 45* angle on the leading edges of the pads. Try an 1/8" wide area first and increase it if needed. We used this procedure on everything from trucks to metallic race car pads to motorcycle and go-carts. Now most pads come with an angle on the leading edge from the manufacturers.
 
Looks like they fixed the issue with the brakes by going with Avid BB5 and the issue with the fork by going with a curved style. Looks nice too.

e3zuma_m_big.jpg
 
Since I've logged well over 1,000 miles I felt it was time to replace the brake pads. Keeping the cost per mile as low as possible, I went with aftermarket pads rather than replacing them with Avid BB5.

4 pair Semi-Metallic pads from discobrakes.com was $23.99

No squeaks, no shutter, no noise. Very smooth. The Tektro brakes them self are fine brakes; it was the oem pads giving me issues all along.

Wish I would have changed out the pads much sooner!
 
tuxman said:
Looks like they fixed the issue with the brakes by going with Avid BB5 and the issue with the fork by going with a curved style. Looks nice too.

So they removed the front shock, didn't include a seat post suspension like the older models, and raised the price $500. It doesn't look nice enough to justify the difference. I'm glad I bought one for my dad before the change. He's been happy with it and if the brakes eventually need upgrading, it won't cost anywhere near $500.
 
tuxman said:
Thank you for the quick reply.

The Zuma is geared while the Cruiser and Phantom are non-geared.

From what I've read geared hub motors have more torque but are prone to wear and make more noise. Where direct drive hub motors need higher amperage for similar torque with out wear and make less noise. There is a trade off.

I need to find out the max torque and amp ratings for these ebikes.

The Phantom X has gears...it is a 7 speed
 
Levy said:
tuxman said:
Thank you for the quick reply.

The Zuma is geared while the Cruiser and Phantom are non-geared.

From what I've read geared hub motors have more torque but are prone to wear and make more noise. Where direct drive hub motors need higher amperage for similar torque with out wear and make less noise. There is a trade off.

I need to find out the max torque and amp ratings for these ebikes.

The Phantom X has gears...it is a 7 speed

Yes, the bike has 7 gears. But that's entirely different from a "geared motor'. The Phantom X has a gearless, direct drive, hub motor.
 
Hello,

I am writing to inform you that we will be starting production on the Phantom X next week and bikes should be shipping 7-10 days after production has begun. You are receiving this email because you were put on our waiting list. We need to make sure that you are still interested in purchasing one of our Phantom X models. If you are still interested, please email us back, by no later than Monday October 17, and let us know what would be the best phone number and time to reach you at to get the shipping information as well as payment information from you. If you would not like to purchase the bike, please email us back and just let us know that you are no longer interested in the bike so you can be taken off the waiting list.



Should you have any other questions, do not hesitate to contact me.

Thank you and have a great day



Karen Sweeting

Email: Karen@prodecotech.com

Phone: 800.943.6190

prodeco

www.prodecotech.com
 
A month ago I slammed into a speed bump that had been paved over with black top at 25mph. It hurt like hell and I felt it for the next few days. Lucky for me I didn't lay the bike down. I did however end up damaging the Bafang BPM2 motor. Since I don't have the special tool to open it up, I can only guess that I bent the axle or broke a gear. All the halls check out. Motor works when unloaded at full speed. The local Currie dealer was very helpful even though I didn't buy my bike from him. The warranty service would cover the motor repair, but during the turnaround time, it cost me $150 a week for a taxi. It was cheaper for me to buy another motor since I can have it in days.

Going on 6 months at 50+ miles a week; bike is holding up great. I would much rather ride my Zuma than take a taxi, even in the rain. Found it hard to hold the twist throttle with winter gloves on. Would like to get a thumb style throttle but for now I've wrapped rubber bands around it for better grip.

Replaced the Bafang BPM2 motor with a 350w mini geared. http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=33763 The mini is a good match with the stock Zuma controller 36v@25a=900w and stock 14T-34T freewheel. Very fun, light weight but just not as powerful.

Came to the conclusion that the BPM2 is a great motor and very powerful. It's rated for 48v, however Currie only offers this bike at 36v. This motor would really shine at 48v.
 
It was after reading this very informative thread, I was in a similar position to Tuxman. I wanted a commute bike, pre-built, 15 miles round trip to work, steep hill at work end...etc. I went out and test rode an E+ Bike, with the battery in the front hub, rear direct hub drive...Nice bike, but NiMh batteries...and at $2400.... a front wheel that would have to be replaced when the batteries need to be replaced...and the dealer told me that I could only buy what he had, since the factory was not going to make these bikes anymore, and focus on custom builds....
http://epluselectricbike.com/
elite.jpg


So I liked the bikes that Tuxman had looked at, and after spending some time reviewing the Zuma, I had decided on that one, only to find out, it was out of stock! and the price had jumped up a bit...Now 1999....
zuma.jpg

The only thing holding me off from Tuxman's number 1 pick, the Prodeco Phantom X was availability, especially after reading about all the delays...but I had now picked this bike:
http://www.prodecotech.com/prodeco_008.htm
file.php



So I picked up the phone and called Prodeco. Spoke to Steve. Got all my answers right away. Then he checked on availability, and found a dealer in Texas with one of the newer builds (almost a version X2, has the 36V LiFe4's 12Ah long pack), and I paid $1099 plus $97 for bikeflights.com through Fedex. And 3 days later, I had a Phantom X in my garage....
DSC_3289small.JPG
 
Thanks for the pics, looks good. I think it was a good improvement to put those battery support bars.
I think the older version of Phantom X did not come with those support beams.
 
So, I added a couple of things right away....

Must have a Cycle Analyst, great product!
http://www.ebikes.ca/drainbrain.shtml

~5106488.JPG

Fenders from Topeak:
http://www.topeak.com/products/Fenders/DeFenderFX
Mirror:
http://www.rei.com/product/723518/mirrycle-mountain-bike-mirror

~0169191.JPG

Longer seat post (I'm 6'4")....and new seat (nothing wrong with the seat that comes with the bike, just personal preference...

photo.JPG
 
Racer_X said:
Thanks for the pics, looks good. I think it was a good improvement to put those battery support bars.
I think the older version of Phantom X did not come with those support beams.


Yes, the beams support the battery, but one problem, the welds on the rack can pop on bumps.....like this....

View attachment New Picture (2).bmp

View attachment New Picture (1).bmp

But, and easy fix at Home Depot....Steel wire organizers with rubber inserts....strong and more flexible than a weld at that spot....Too much stress from the long battery...but should be fine now...I highly recommend this addition to anyone with the long battery....

~4541560.JPG

~9849835.JPG

The only other problem I had was the seat was at an angle, was not the seat rails, but was the way the top mount on the post was pinned in crooked, but I needed to replace the post with a longer one anyway....(even though Prodeco sent me a new seat! nice service)....

View attachment 1

So the new post (taller) and seat are great:

~1617073.JPG
 
Art Vandelay said:
It was after reading this very informative thread, I was in a similar position to Tuxman. I wanted a commute bike, pre-built, 15 miles round trip to work, steep hill at work end...etc. I went out and test rode an E+ Bike, with the battery in the front hub, rear direct hub drive...Nice bike, but NiMh batteries...and at $2400.... a front wheel that would have to be replaced when the batteries need to be replaced...and the dealer told me that I could only buy what he had, since the factory was not going to make these bikes anymore, and focus on custom builds....
http://epluselectricbike.com/
elite.jpg
...

Good summation. Front battery/DDrear hub looks clean installed,
But, I think physics dictate, that we should remove weight from the wheel.
Unsprung mass.
10-30lbs Rear D.D.' are bad enough. :roll:
Hence LFP, AJ, Miles, Recumpence on & on & on gwhy! :wink:
So many guys building sweeet chain driven bikes.

But I enjoy DD simplicity. As well.
I would be interested in finding a dead battery E+ bike.
IIRC this is a domestically, US produced(machined/wound) motor, Rear D.D.. :wink:
As close to local as I can get.
I know, Bionx is/was just down the HWY. :wink:
No way they were winding Bionx rear hubs in the G.T.A.
That's done in China my friends.

Has anyone here on the sphere tested/modified one?
Not finding much relevant modding info.
 
Brentis said:
More C.A. shots. :)
Does the folding bike frame, feel as solid as a simple triangle framed Mountain bike?
Whats the top speed & avg?

Keep up the great work. :mrgreen:

So the bike frame feels solid, not flexing. I'm 200 lbs, and I don't notice any bad qualities in the ride on rough roads, other than the broken rack mentioned above, but that was any easy fix.

The bike on flats goes around 18-20mph with pedaling. The CA shows the amps drop slowly from about 10amps at 15mph, 4amps at 17mph to zero amps at 20mph. You cant go faster than 20mph on flats because the bike goes into regen and takes HUGH effort to push the negative amps back into the battery. Top speed has been 34mph on my big downhill leaving work. 1.25miles with avg of 8% and some spots closer to 16%....I have seen -12amps going into the battery in regen. I've also seen upto 52 volts during regen, from a freshly charged pack which is at rest voltage of 43v.

On the way up the hill in the morning, I am in 2nd and 1st gear on the steeps at 9mph with some medium to aggressive pedaling and drawing 20amps, and a few sections of 4th gear at 14mph and 16amps.
I really wish I could "unlimit" the 20amps and 20mph to say 25amps and 25mph, it would really be a nicer ride. But unless I go get a different controller, and go 48V at around what I paid for the whole bike...I'm going to deal with it for now....still want to go 48v and replace that long pack on the back. I think it looks funny, and i'd like to get one of the Topeak racks:
http://www.topeak.com/products/Racks/ExplorerTubularRack_discMount

View attachment New Picture (5).bmp

and put the 48v in the trunkbag:
http://www.topeak.com/products/Bags/MTXTrunkBagDXP

View attachment New Picture (4).bmp
 
Art Vandelay said:
Brentis said:
More C.A. shots. :)
Does the folding bike frame, feel as solid as a simple triangle framed Mountain bike?
Whats the top speed & avg?

Keep up the great work. :mrgreen:

So the bike frame feels solid, not flexing. I'm 200 lbs, and I don't notice any bad qualities in the ride on rough roads, other than the broken rack mentioned above, but that was any easy fix.

The bike on flats goes around 18-20mph with pedaling. The CA shows the amps drop slowly from about 10amps at 15mph, 4amps at 17mph to zero amps at 20mph. You cant go faster than 20mph on flats because the bike goes into regen and takes HUGH effort to push the negative amps back into the battery. Top speed has been 34mph on my big downhill leaving work. 1.25miles with avg of 8% and some spots closer to 16%....I have seen -12amps going into the battery in regen. I've also seen upto 52 volts during regen, from a freshly charged pack which is at rest voltage of 43v.

On the way up the hill in the morning, I am in 2nd and 1st gear on the steeps at 9mph with some medium to aggressive pedaling and drawing 20amps, and a few sections of 4th gear at 14mph and 16amps.
I really wish I could "unlimit" the 20amps and 20mph to say 25amps and 25mph, it would really be a nicer ride. But unless I go get a different controller, and go 48V at around what I paid for the whole bike...I'm going to deal with it for now....still want to go 48v and replace that long pack on the back. I think it looks funny, and i'd like to get one of the Topeak racks:
http://www.topeak.com/products/Racks/ExplorerTubularRack_discMount

View attachment 1

and put the 48v in the trunkbag:
http://www.topeak.com/products/Bags/MTXTrunkBagDXP


Interesting that is regens @ 20mph.
Not to sound harsh.
i would hate this setup.
I have not rode a PAS that was natural like a twist throttle.
Hand throttle is safer,to me. Regen could be added. if you used a new controller.
I assume this is reg. 3 phase hub motor.
Look to the LYEN (New For sale section)for a new controller & throttle.
cure what ail's ya' :mrgreen:
 
Brentis said:
Art Vandelay said:

Interesting that is regens @ 20mph.
Not to sound harsh.
i would hate this setup.
I have not rode a PAS that was natural like a twist throttle.
Hand throttle is safer,to me. Regen could be added. if you used a new controller.
I assume this is reg. 3 phase hub motor.
Look to the LYEN (New For sale section)for a new controller & throttle.
cure what ail's ya' :mrgreen:

So the PX has a thumb throttle and rides along just fine with out pedaling at around 17 mph on flat, no wind....so it's not a traditional PAS at all. You punch the throttle and go....
What they have done with the controller that I like and dislike (a bit :wink: ) is to use the hall sensors to limit the amps out to the 3 phase hub motor (500w rated, but will run at 720w up the hill continuous and barely get above room temp) so that as you approach 20mph, the amps get reduced. So if you were on flat and throttled up to 17mph with no assist, you would see about 4amps and if you got a sudden headwind, you will still see 17mph, but the amps will go up a bit, like 6-7amp to hold the speed. But as you pedal toward the magic 20mph, amps go down to zero, then each mph over 20 will add more and more neg amps, so auto regen. if you are on a downhill and take your thumb off the throttle, you still get regen, hence the part I dislike, always regen at 20....

But overall, I really like this setup....just want to get to 25mph with pedal assist....so, I've heard someone around here has just put a 48V 20ah ping on with the stock controller and is getting 27mph on flats....just want to know if the controller will stand up over time
 
I really wish I could "unlimit" the 20amps and 20mph to say 25amps and 25mph, it would really be a nicer ride. But unless I go get a different controller, and go 48V at around what I paid for the whole bike...I'm going to deal with it for now....still want to go 48v and replace that long pack on the back. I think it looks funny, and i'd like to get one of the Topeak racks:
I have been riding my DD hub motor on 48v and I have been getting 1200w. If I where you I would get a booster battery pack (maybe a 5s 10ah for an extra 20v.) That will bring you to 60v hot off the charger which is the standard for 48v. I would also switch the controller to a 9 FET 36-72v 30amp after you get bored of 48v. After 3 years I have now been personally thinking of getting the 9 FET controller for my solution, there about $89. That would increase my torque and top speed to around 33mph+ and be pretty safe for the engine or controller. The plus about the controller you get 1. Regen, 2. three speed 3. cruise control. offcourse those addons are extra.

I appreciate that your updating us about the Phantom X, I think it is a great base bike and you get alot for those $1100.00.
 
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