"ScootBike"Build.

Brentis

10 kW
Joined
Apr 5, 2010
Messages
871
Location
PEI, Canada
This build will be based on "Strong GTS."


GT_S_top_class_e_bike.jpg

and a "Baja Motorsports 500E".

Baja 500E.jpg
Baja 500E F3rd.jpg
Baja 500E R3rd.jpg

I had started to customize these as two separate platforms.
"Strong"http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=34672
"Baja Rat"http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=34624

I am currently space and funds limited.
Time to get creative. :mrgreen:
Here are a few initial teaser pics.


ScootBike Side.JPG
ScootBike Front3rd.JPG

ScootBike Low rear3rd.JPG
View attachment 4
Headangle comparison.JPG

Issues to tackle.
*Clamping droputs
*Spacer for the steerer.
*Chainring/drive
*Different handle bars.
*Batteries/Controller
*The cost of all this, to my lady. :wink:

This is gonna be sweet.
on 52v the Baja500E ran 50+kph.
Striped of 75-100lbs and I should get closer to 60kph.
Run on 24s Lipo I should be over 80. :twisted:

Thoughts & comments please.

Stay tuned...
 
Freaking awesome, I like your creative!! and May I suggest you to grab the MagicPie II with external version to allow you use Lyen controller. They have a scooter motor fully aluminum. The motor itself typically 10 turn and slap with insane 150v (Lyen highway controller or a Muscular Lyen controller). I am sure this setup will give you monstrous torque and very quickly acceleration. :mrgreen:

I think they have 16" maximum (Lowest size rim) - No spokes and fully aluminum alloy housing and rim together, Here the link http://www.goldenmotor.ca/product_images/s/540/MagicPieSeries__43213__23933_zoom.jpg


I am not sure, Your handlebar seems too high and your picture is bit trick to me.
 
Scooter hub motor would be way better.. btw, golden motor sells a few big scooter hubs out there. More powerful than hub motors like the crystalyte 53xx.. more like the cromotor.. for cheap :)

I think Methods or SteveO experimented with them and said they were too powerful.. :lol:
 
A few more pics.

Spacer, trim, clamping handlebar, & go..JPG
Need a big spacer, a trim & a clamping handlebar setup.

100mm Cranks..JPG
No more pedal strike issues.
I plan to run a sprocket hub, set screwed to the BB axle, for the chain drive.
This pedal setup is for legal purposes only, not a machine to be pedaled regular like. :wink:


110mm Rear drum..JPG
Lots of power. Easy to lock up for slides.

Before..JPG
Next step will be the clamping dropouts.

chroot said:
Freaking awesome, I like your creative!! and May I suggest you to grab the MagicPie II with external version to allow you use Lyen controller. They have a scooter motor fully aluminum. The motor itself typically 10 turn and slap with insane 150v (Lyen highway controller or a Muscular Lyen controller). I am sure this setup will give you monstrous torque and very quickly acceleration. :mrgreen:

I think they have 16" maximum (Lowest size rim) - No spokes and fully aluminum alloy housing and rim together, Here the link http://www.goldenmotor.ca/product_images/s/540/MagicPieSeries__43213__23933_zoom.jpg


I am not sure, Your handlebar seems too high and your picture is bit trick to me.

Thanks man :wink:

Handle bar is too high. it would be good for standing on pedals offroad.
As a street machine(it's primary function) way to high.
Head angle remains as original.
Ground clearance is lower, but still very functional.

I like the idea of an 16" external pie.
But 16" bicycle tires are limited in choice.
3.00x10 scooter rubber offers lots of choice.(the tire size on these hubs)
From studded ice tires to sticky race rubber.
So I will stick with the "500w" scooter hub :wink:
save the money for Lipo.
 
man that looks freaking awesome.. will those tires help soak up some of the bumps ?

Way to integrate the 2 bikes. What kind of speed can you get out of that motor ?

It looks different , but it seems to have good lines for me. You do all that work in your living room ?

Cant wait for video.
 
ohzee said:
man that looks freaking awesome.. will those tires help soak up some of the bumps ?

Way to integrate the 2 bikes. What kind of speed can you get out of that motor ?

It looks different , but it seems to have good lines for me. You do all that work in your living room ?

Cant wait for video.

Cheers
Poor quality :roll: vids to come.
I got lucky with the integration of the two.
I think it has great lines. Dare I say race bike-like.
JohninCr inspired.

The tires are real deal moto tires, in full size scooter sizing.
3.00X10. Pirelli, Michelin, Schwalbe, etc... all make various versions.
From studded ice to sticky race rubber.
This was one of the major deciding factors for scooter hub vs. bike hub.
Cheap rubber, lots of choice. :D
I suspect there is some "suspension" to them but not like balloon bike tires.
Suspension will come by fork&shock.

On my 52v cell_man pack the full bodied scooter originally reached 50+kph.
This bike will be @ least 75lbs lighter.
(100lbs lighter if the pilot would lose his winter fat jacket.)
For this build I'm looking to experiment with Lipo.
18s then 24s.
@ 88.8v I expect close to 80kph.

We currently live in a basement apartment.
I do all my work in the dining/kitchen area, that I have converted to my shop.
I have an extremely loving and supportive partner.
I am not easy to live with. :lol:
She is.
 
Update...


View attachment 6
View attachment 4
A handle bar change.
*Apologies for the dark pics.*


Steering stops interfering.JPG
Not a problem for me & stanley.JPG
The first modification to be made.
So far just been nuts&bolts. :wink:

Front rim size.JPG
Front wheel size.
Can anyone decipher? 2.5" wide. 10"diameter.
What does the MT & 50P represent?

Should allow me to run these in the summer
Pirelli SL 26.jpg
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.co...L-26-Performance-Front-Rear-Scooter-Tire.aspx
or these in the winter/offroad.
0000_Bridgestone_M404_Intermediate_Rear_Tire_--.jpg
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.co.../Bridgestone-M404-Intermediate-Rear-Tire.aspx

Stay tuned...
 
Your shit looks awesome Brentis.. you are also lucky to have such an understanding partner.

be happy for what you have.. id say it's pretty good from what I can see.

Cant wait to see it in action.
 
If you're really going to stretch her legs speed wise, you'll probably find a larger diameter wheel on the front to be just what the doctor ordered. That's because the fork offset combined with the small wheel has shortened the trail significantly compared to the original frame. I've tried the small front wheel on 2 bikes now and really didn't like the handling even with proper trail. I had to go to a bigger wheel on both which gave it better tracking at speed, because it increased trail. The cranks probably need shortening too.

It's definitely looking slick, so hopefully you get luckier with the geometry than I did on the first go round. Keep in mind that if a bump or braking a further shortening of the trail, and you get a wobble called a tank slapper, the cure is to hit the throttle and get your weight back to unload the front wheel. Your reaction needs to be instantaneous, so don't think about it, because that would be too late.

Your current build is good experience to prepare you for something like SuperV with a Hubmonster drive. She's been upgraded from this pic with nice side covers for a pretty battery compartment, and cool side air intake ducts near the axle as window dressing. Under the hood she's now got Steveo's 300A battery side actively ventilated controller, so I have to upgrade the phase wires to 4awg welding cable and the motor will probably need to be ventilated too. With Cannondale's original design as a guide, I nailed the geometry on this one and she handles the street well from very low speed right up to 60mph. The suspension is too soft for real sport riding, but straight lines and bumpy roads are like riding on a cloud like a big land barge 70's Cadillac. :mrgreen:
Super V with Hubmonster new swingarm.JPG
 
Cheers John.

I will definitely keep an eye on trail/stability as I up the speed.
I tried a 20" Bicycle wheel/tire front, 10" Scooter rear, but it looked odd and relaxed headtube angle a bit.
It may have functioned better, just looked weird.
I thought mixing different rubber, may cause issues.(Sticky rear, less than sticky front)
Then the scooter frontend fit so well, and ta da.
I could probably fit a Pitbike front end with 12"/14" moto tire if needed.
Ive been very lucky with fitment, hope it rides as well.
I'll see how it goes.

Let's see some updated pics of the Cannondale.
One of my favorite ES builds: :mrgreen:
 
Hey brentis, that's looking awesome. It's a little less bicycle than how ya had it stock. Hee hee. If you rode that around here the cops would be on yer tail in a hot second but only because I think they might mistake it for one of these.....


pitstar%20bike1-forhomepage.jpg


Which seem to be driven around these parts a dime a dozen for some reason. Might have to show a few of 'em what ebikes can do one day soon... But I digress.

But when it's virtually silent,who knows.... All about the attitude I guess....
 
Brentis,

Why do I get the feeling you are an e-motorcyclist at heart and are training for that course using the knowledge that electric bicycle building gives you to get there.
 
Thanks TD.

Bob, I'm somewhere between an Ebiker & an E moto guy.
I grew up on (sic.) Gas Mopeds and Bicycles.
Without going into a rant about my displeasure with Government cash grabs,
I want to avoid fees associated with a Motorcycle.
In Ontario we have low speed motorcycles, *70kph* :roll: limit (scooters,mopeds) taxed & insured @ a lower rate than full size motorcycles.
Ebikes of course have no fees.
Motorcycles must maintain 12mth insurance. :roll: , but have a 9 month riding season if extremely lucky.
So I continue to build mild outlaw Ebicycles.
I still have pedals & a "500w" motor, all legal like :wink:
I may be pushing the boundary appearance/performance wise, with this build, but in my town,
cops have more pressing issues.
Unless you ride like a twat on the sidewalk @50+kph.

A future build will be licensed as a low speed moto, but will be an outlaw bike as well.
I likely wont go more than 100kph, but having plates will allow me to build something more moto looking.
Remaining unbothered by the Po Po.
Something like a Enertrac powered Kikker Hardknock,
or a pitbike like Hobbit posted on the previous page.

So lets call me an Escooterist, E ped, E Mod, etc..
I never understood the desire people have for 800lbs motorcycles, or 4000lbs cars.
I always went for the lighter vehicles, that I find more fun to drive.(miata, VW rabbit, Honda Civic, mopeds, etc)

Anyways I ramble.
 
I completely understand and have almost identical views. Without going into a rant about government control I still live my life in the southwest where there is a modicum of individual freedom, but don't worry the US government is working hard to squash any remaining traces of individuality. There is a law they are working on now where by government psychologists can test you for "anti-government phobia" (now deemed an actual condition by the government) and have you committed to a mental health facility. (I think they need to take "land of the free" out of the national anthem.) Sorry, I'm ranting.
 
Updates...

Steering stops are gone..JPG
Old scooter bearing.JPG
The scooter used a pair of this style of bearing top&bottom of headtube.


Bearing in bottom of headtube..JPG
The Strong frame uses a sealed bearing top & bottom.(hard to see in the pic)
My brain tells me that the sealed units are the more durable.
Anyone have experience with one over the other?

as pictured 19lbs.JPG
as pictured 22lbs.JPG

Yikes. In a world of lightweight forks, this is a sumo.

Starting to add up, this will not be a lightweight ride. hope I can keep it under 100lbs.

Stay tuned...
 
updates...


10mm axle Dropout..JPG
Scooter hub axle has a stepped diameter, 12mm @ its narrowest.
Not gonna work. So.


No turning back now..JPG
Took about 15mins with a hacksaw to remove the bottom tang of the dropout.
more like an hour an a half to cut the 4 pcs of angle :roll:
I was drippin', quite the workout.
Replacment parts..JPG


Hub seated.JPG
1 pcs of angle will be bolted to the dropout, so as to be level with the top of the existing drop.
The other will bolt to first, pinching to axle tight.
Ala Dogman, only horizontal rather than vertical.

I would also prefer to tap the dropout&angle & use a set screw/bolt of some sort.
Pretty it up a little. :wink:
Thoughts?
Size of hardware vs. strength.
Links to "attractive" hardware?

Stay tuned...
 
I'm stalled a lil' on this project while I await some funds.

What little money that is coming in is hard to spend on the "Projects"
when my very supportive partner is basically carrying the house, on her just over minimum wage job, she hates.

Just a quick ?

I have a dremmel or CT version.
I figured out the diamond cut off attachment. :roll: sanding & such.
What about the rest of those bits?
Should I use the green stone bit to clean up the edge, left by hacksaw?
Cut Drops. Rough.JPG

Suggestions/comments.
 
I bet if you go to youtube and type in dremel and go to the dremel site you can get about any question about which stone does what and how to do it.
 
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