fried my Lyen controller

jorijnsmit

1 mW
Joined
Feb 23, 2012
Messages
12
After connecting my 12FET Lyen controller to my setup (48V 20AH SLA, 2500W hub) I witnessed my first frying session in the garage :) Apparently the GND wire for the brake connector burned through its coating—see picture.

IMG_20120221_191833.jpgWhat exactly happened is not clear to me.

Now after re-installing the default controller I can't get the motor running again. Actually after connecting a second phase wire to the motor and turning the wheel by hand it doesn't spin freely anymore but needs more power and 'jerks' a lot. Nothing happens when accelerating. The circuit is still intact, (brake) lights etc. still work...

Who can help me figure out what went wrong here?
 
If a wheel is hard to turn when you have phase wires hooked up its something shorting out the phase wires. Look at the fets they are the usually cause of this. Use a multi meter and test between all 3 phase wires in both directions. If you get a low number that's where to look. Also test between positive and negative with the probes hooked up one way and then the other. All your resistance tests should read hi or infinite. I find it strange a brake ground wire burnt? what did it burn to??? Did it arc to the case? If so that means the case is live (shorted to +) Have a look and make sure the board is not letting the traces touch the case.
 
The weird thing is that the wheel acts this way while the old controller is connected again! I can understand something inside Lyen's controller is shorting the phase wires—it is fried after all. But the old controller should just work normally again right? This leads me to think there is a problem in the circuit or hub itself...
 
jorijnsmit said:
The weird thing is that the wheel acts this way while the old controller is connected again! I can understand something inside Lyen's controller is shorting the phase wires—it is fried after all. But the old controller should just work normally again right? This leads me to think there is a problem in the circuit or hub itself...
How easy does the wheel turn with out a controller hooked to it? And test all three phase wires to each other and to ground on the motor too.
 
Without a controller it moves like it should; without resistance. Phase wires test good.
 
jorijnsmit said:
Without a controller it moves like it should; without resistance. Phase wires test good.
Then its in the controller
 
That almost looks to me like the main gnd is/was open and all the current attempted to pass through the brake sense gnd?

If your motor spins fine completely disconnected your phase wires are likely okay. Stiffening up when connected could be maybe regen activated? You do have a smoked brake sense wire...
 
Ykick said:
Stiffening up when connected could be maybe regen activated? You do have a smoked brake sense wire...
The old controller doesn't have a regen function afaik.

Ykick said:
That almost looks to me like the main gnd is/was open and all the current attempted to pass through the brake sense gnd?
Could you elaborate? I sound tested the brake sense wires on the circuit and get a weird reading—the problem lies somewhere here. I suspect that it is also what affected my old controller when connecting it again...
 
I would suspect blown halls in hub
 
nineball said:
I would suspect blown halls in hub
I tested the whole setup with a different hub and it did the same so I don't suspect a problem with the motor anymore.
 
jorijnsmit said:
Ykick said:
Stiffening up when connected could be maybe regen activated? You do have a smoked brake sense wire...
The old controller doesn't have a regen function afaik.

Ykick said:
That almost looks to me like the main gnd is/was open and all the current attempted to pass through the brake sense gnd?
Could you elaborate? I sound tested the brake sense wires on the circuit and get a weird reading—the problem lies somewhere here. I suspect that it is also what affected my old controller when connecting it again...

There could be a mild regen activated by brake sense input. I believe some Lyen controllers shipped that way? Best to ask him of course but if the old controller behaves the same I'm probably barking up the wrong tree.

Give your battery connection a close look. Are they Anderson connectors? Is so, make sure the black gnd is making good contact. Actually, give all connectors a good push, wiggle and tug to make sure they're solid.

Why did you replace the original controller? Just an upgrade or was there an existing problem?
 
Ykick said:
Why did you replace the original controller? Just an upgrade or was there an existing problem?
Just an upgrade, mostly to boost acceleration. There are a lot of traffic lights here in Amsterdam :p

The connectors are indeed Anderson but not the problem :)
 
Does it make the wheel hard to turn before you turn the controller on??? If so its nothing other the the fets or something laying across or inbetween the traces.
 
Arlo1 said:
Does it make the wheel hard to turn before you turn the controller on??? If so its nothing other the the fets or something laying across or inbetween the traces.
Nice one! Yes, even when turning the power and main switch off, the wheel still cannot turn freely.

On top of that, I found out that the wires I connected the brake sense to are different on the previous controller. It carries 48V (!) and 36.66V when braking. I will need to get schematics on my current circuit to figure this out further.

The question that remains however is what did this do to my Lyen controller and how come my old controller is also affected?
 
My guess is a short in wiring, and both your controllers might still be good. Test all wiring, especially this brake switch that you shouldn't plug before testing anyway.

When I install a new motor or controller, I first test them separately, then double check all wiring and connectors. When I plug them to test, I plug only the throttle, halls and phase wires. After I'm sure that I found the proper hall and phase sequence, I plug one by one the other accessories, CA first, then 3 spd switch, regen brake switch...
 
Maybe. But if it does it turned off it would need to be a short from something to a phasee wire and to another phase wire!!!!
 
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