Hyena said:
For LVC i'll just use the controller and CA. I'll set 'em for around 3.5v per cell.That's probably a fairly safe bet. I actually don't bother with any cell level LVC on my packs. I don't take em past around 80% discharge so unless one suddenly dies it's not going to be an issue. And if it does suddenly die then it was going to anyway
Oh i didn't mean down to cell level, i'll just set the CA and controller to cutout around 68 - 70v or so. Thats it, its going to go to lipo heaven if it's time is up either way
I made the mistake with my Cyclone bike's lipo of taking it down to 95% a few times, funnily enough my 1st prebuilt 10ah pack didn't like that game and went puffo soon after...
Hence the CA now to monitor the battery a little better...
Hyena said:
Damn, who makes a pricey RC charger that doesn't balance ?!My very first lipo charging setup used one of those external hyperion balancers and a meanwell. It melted after a few months of use. It was the inline charging type though so was constantly bleeding away at the cells the whole time it was charging. Which is a bad idea as you don't need to balance until nearly full.
Tell me 'bout it! I bought them just before i found out the latest 1420i charger was coming to market... Hmmm, sounds like you worked the poor thing to death! Could you have just used it towards the end of the charge instead of all the way? Or do you mean you were charging through the balancer?
Hyena said:
Yep pretty much the same. I've used Andersons for the last few years for simple noob/mistake-proof connections but with higher powered setups you need to use beefier connections - like Simon has done with his custom housings. You could also use XT150s. They're not as bulky as other options and still click in together somewhat for a simple connection. If you're only bursting 5kw and not hard on it all the time you could get away with 45a andersons anyway. My daily ride has had the same 45a andersons on it for over a year and have never melted seeing peaks of 80a
I must say i've never used andersons yet, they always look pretty bulky which has put me off them for use in confined spaces like my frames.
I'll ask Simon what plugs he used, they look like some sort of 5-6mm bullet maybe? I was also thinking of using my old favourite, Deans plugs, they are rated to 60a from memory. Yeah i'll be keeping it under 5kw peaks and will try to go easy on it :wink:
Hyena said:
Yeah the H40 would be cool, no doubt. But the 9C is sufficient. It's what I've been riding for the last few years and it's never skipped a beat and has sufficient guts for mixing it up with traffic when necessary. I'm not as confident to race motor bikes but that's what hte 5404 is for
Probably a good practical choice over the Clyte (though it pains me to say it!). Hmmm, so the 5404 is going on the Fighter??? With new spokes from what i saw on your thread!
Hyena said:
Hard to say, when methods spoke to one supplier they had 2 differed specced units and hte ones that were $2 more had better components but they didn't advertise that. So when the gear is coming from different suppliers you don't know if one guy is making a $1 mark up per unit and the next guy is making a $2 mark up, or if they're actually different quality units. Then you get the local sellers charging double, but I'm sure thats largely markup. I would have thought they'd all be mass produced in the same factory but apparently not. The more expensive blue ones have a seperate external discharge circuit on them which is why they're more expensive. The 5w ones would suffice if you want the cheapest
The cheeky buggers, how'd you find out about the component difference?
Yeah i went cheap, real cheap, $13ea cheap lol. Its amazing looking at them all on Fleabay at how much difference there is in pricing, from $13 to $90! No doubt as you say, some are probably just marked right up.
I'll just expect the worst untill i try them and if i get lucky i'll be pleasantly surprised. If their crap, it'll serve me right for being a tightarse lol.
sn0wchyld said:
yea mate, im gonna finish the BB drive with the ple80. Been working on it lately... latest update here.http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=33657&p=534823#p579748I'm not sure how long I'll use it for though. I'm thinking once its running reliably I'll transfer it to the norko, possibly with a 6374 instead of the 8085. That way I can get rid of the hub motor and hopefully have a much better offroad performer/hill climber. It also frees up the 8085 so I can use it to make a twin 8085 direct drive unit, possibly though a 2speed dogbox for the Avanti D8 . and if that goes well, then its gonna be twin 80100's for the norko . Thats a while off yet though.
Hey, looking good! I want to see plenty of lightening holes in those aluminium plates when its done young man :wink:
But seriously, your off to a good start. Ya just gotta watch the width with these things, really try to keep it as narrow as possible down to the mm. Do you know what cranks and BB your going to team it with? If your intending to mount the unit close-ish to the BB, you'll need to know what width you have between the crank arms eh. On my original Norco / Astro 8150 / shit cheap planetary gearbox build, i had something like 2mm clearance to my LH crank arm...
Twin 80100's! Your nuts! That'll end up with about the same power as Rodger's twin 3220 build and maybe slightly more torque. I hope you've got some hardened dangleberries between your legs to handle that beast :lol:
You might find for off road riding, a single 80100 with a 2 spd will be more controllable. However if its for road use, go the twins and have some fun!
Build update:
The HT is now fully vented with 27 x 10mm holes in line with the windings on the drive side. While i was at it, i sanded the edges of both covers to clean up where i'd used a few screw drivers to pry the covers off...
Paul
so i put a strap around it made out of a section of a large zip tie and secured it with flush dome head plastic rivets.
