How to install turn signals for dummies

The dummy is me. I can change my car's brake rotors and pads, swap out the suspension, take a bicycle apart and put it back together, but I know squat when it comes to electronics. Can someone outline how to install blinkers on my escoot and/or ebike?

So far I am thinking of these components:
Turn signal switch: 7 wires
http://www.ebay.com/itm/120782821015?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649


Lights: 2 wires
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Clear-Black...versal-Motorcycle-Blinker-Light-/400270676951


INSTALLATION:
All the wires are getting a bit overwhelming. Not sure what connects to what.
How the battery is hooked up to power the lights. Thanks in advance.
Can someone provide some instructions?

Typically, you have:
--ground to each light
--left light's other wire to left side of turn signal switch
--same for right light
--common of switch to ground of blinker
--positive of blinker to battery

That's all there usually is.

Some systems are setup the other way round, with the blinker at ground, and battery positive to the lights, but all the other interconnects would still be the same, in reverse polarity.

I've built blinkers from various circuits found on the web or modified from existing ones and an electronic one from a scooter for LEDs. I used thermal ones from cars and and an electromechanical one from a scooter for incandescents. You can buy blinkers for about any type of lighting you want, usually in the light bulb and fuses section of an auto parts store.

Oh, and I highly recommend using a turn signal switch you can easily move to any of the three positions but has a good center-off "catch", *and* that is smoothed for a thumb to just brush it whichever way is needed, while not really paying attention to it. If possible, get the controls unit off a motorcycle handlebar (or a replacement unit intended for one), preferably one made of metal rather than plastic. Trust me--they're WAAAAY better than any of the crap made for ebikes.

I have one on CrazyBike2 from an old 80s Honda scooter, made of aluminum and well-worn and until I managed to drop Crazybike2's bars against a support pole for a roof, it survived just fine--even then, it only snapped the switch tab off, and was still intact and working inside. I just had to put a screw thru the external switch plate into the switch tab and it works fine again. It also has a threaded mirror mount as well as brake switch lever, headlight switch, and horn button.

The one you have pictured above looks like a regular switch tab, and is likely to be very uncomfortable to use, possibly hard to move (or if easy to move might just vibrate into a signalling position).

Thanks amber I was curious as well. Need to get some on my yuba.

So I won't need to hook up a relay of any sort? Excuse my complete ignorance, but I don't really know much about relays anyway other than I think it's an automatic switch of some sort. So the cheapo ebay switch takes care of that and no relay needed, correct?

Since the unit is made for and includes LED lights for the signals I would expect it has the needed electronics inside to make it flash if that's what you are asking.

I haven't seen zillions of them, but so far none of hte scooter or motorcycle signals Iv'e handled or had have anything in them but the light itself. The blinker is separate, already part of the scooter or motorcycle, or purchased separately. Older ones only work for incandescents, newer ones often work for either but you have to make sure it says it works with LED if using LED stuff, or you have to install "ballast" resistors on each signal side to make the blinker work reliably or at all. See your local automotive parts store in the section I indicated before to see what I'm talking about.

www. heeters.com
Universal Turn Signal Kit

For those who want a complete kit with handlebar switch, four lights and flasher, I got this which seems to do the trick. It comes with a standard 12 volt flasher which can be picked up at any auto parts store.


Universal Turn Signal Kit
For Motorcycles, ATVs, Mopeds, Scooters & golf carts

Description:
For 12 volt systems *(optional 6 volt conversion kit available)*
4 turn signals with wires
2 3/4" outside diameter of amber lens
Mounting brackets for 7/8" diameter
Handlebar mounted switch with wires
Flasher unit with mount & wires
Instructions included
Price (#WP-66-1505)-----$59.99

Some related threads:

• Turn Signals
• DOT Vehicle Lighting

As a fervent Believer in safe-signaling, I carry my protection with me at all times.

Just say "No" to accidents! KF

1. If not a DIY tutorial, maybe it's just a wiring diagram I'm looking for that would clarify the hookup.
Can someone dumb this down for me. I realize there's no ignition. I assume the "turn signal flasher" are built into the "turn signal switch" that's the switching they I posted up top. True? Looks fairly simple. I guess it's the number of wires that's included in the switch that overwhelms me. The thing's got 7 wires. Granted a few of them are for the horn and headlight which I don't have (won't be using). Not sure how many wires I'm actually dealing with. Does anyone know how many I need for the turn signals?




2. Since starting the thread, I've found a super minimalistic solution that goes with the miniature theme of the escoot this mod would be going on - amber license plate LED lights!

Like this but amber. Rather than facing towards the rear and pointing down, it would be mounted to the sides of the battery tray on my scoot and pointing backwards. Not sure how these would do blinking though.


RESOURCES:
I found this, but still need more clarity: http://totalruckus.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=116&t=56708&start=0

Here's my take on your 7 wires. If the flasher unit is contained in your switch that just helps, but otherwise the above diagram you posted shows an external flasher unit. Some flasher units have to be on the negative side, like AW already pointed out, and some have three wires and need to be hooked to the + and - side of the battery.

Anyway, to sort out your seven wires, which are probably a common input positive from the battery (or ignition switch) for the lights and horn, a positive output from the switch to the lights, and a positive output from the switch to the horn. Then there will be 3 wires for the turn signals. Don't know what the seventh wire is for unless there are high and low beam lights, or a lighted switch, or an internal flasher unit requires a positive and negative input.

Here's one way you can identify those wires. Start with one of your lights and hook one of the wires to the negative post of a 12v battery. With all of the wires to the switch separated and not touching each other, hook one of the wires to the positive post of your battery. Use the red one if there is one, otherwise just pick a color. For now we will call this wire (1). It would be smart to put a real small fuse between this wire and the battery just in case you short somewhere.

Now, I would do a little extra work to identify all wires, starting with the lights. Turn just the lights on at the switch. Then take the unused wire from your light and touch each of the other wires from the switch. When the light comes on you will know which wires run the lights. You will not know which of these two wires is the common input for the lights and horn, but not to worry yet. If none of the combos turn on the light, you have to select a different wire as wire (1) and then repeat this test. Once you have found the wire that turns on the light we will call that wire (2).

Next, turn off the lights and press the horn button while you touch the light wire to each of the remaining five wires. When the light works you will have found the horn wire. If none of the combos work, switch wire (1) with wire (2), test the light again just to be sure, and try again to find the horn wire by repeating this step. When the light works, you will have found the horn wire (3).

There's a good chance that none of these first three wires are used for the turn signals, but you could test the turn signal switch by turning it to Left Signal (or Right) and then touching the wire from the light to each of the remaining four wires.

Anyway, now that at least three wires have been eliminated as horn and light wires it will be easier to find the turn signal wires.

Pick another wire (4) as the input to the turn signals and hook it to the + side of your battery, instead of wire (1). Keep the fuse in place.

Now turn on one of the signals and touch the light wire to each of the remaining 3 wires. If the light comes on you have found the signal wire and you can move the switch to the other signal to find which of the remaining 2 wires are for the other signal. If the light does not come on, you have to try another wire as wire (4) and repeat this test. If none of the combos work, it may mean that the seventh wire is required to run the signals which I hesitate to give advice on, since an internal flasher could be sensitive to wrong polarity. However, it could just mean that the flasher has to be on the - side and the tests have to be repeated by reversing all the battery and light wires.

I expect you will require an external flasher, but if you find the right combo that makes your test light flash you are home free. I take no responsibility for the destruction of your switch or flasher unit if you follow these instructions. Gook luck.

Unfortunately, my scoot doesn't have a headlight hooked up nor does it have a horn. I may have to email a few of the ebay sellers of the handlebar controler to find out the function of each wire by color.

Unfortunately, my scoot doesn't have a headlight hooked up nor does it have a horn.

Click to expand...

I guess I just wasted my time with the above post. You don't even need to use your scoot to identify which wires do what.

Hmm, thanks for the links, I might need to try this.

-JD

Rassy said:

Unfortunately, my scoot doesn't have a headlight hooked up nor does it have a horn.

Click to expand...

I guess I just wasted my time with the above post. You don't even need to use your scoot to identify which wires do what.

Click to expand...

I'm so sorry. I should have been more clear in the original post. I do appreciate your time and effort in responding to my post however. Much appreciated. I won't forget ya. Let me know if there are any mods I can help you with (non electricity related). Most of my expertise to offer has to do with the mods to my recumbent trike (blog in sig). Not sure if there's any way I can help in that realm. Let me know though if you run into something you want to know more about.

I bought all the stuff and put together a partial draft of a wiring diagram. Hoping my uncle may be able to help me figure out the connections. In the meantime, maybe you guys have some ideas on what wire connects to which. I only have one handlebar controller with the switches on it. I'm showing two below b/c they are different wiring labels that I found from various ebay sellers. Not sure if even either is correct. Perhaps you have some feedback?

kmxtornado said:

I assume the "turn signal flasher" are built into the "turn signal switch" that's the switching they I posted up top. True?

Click to expand...

False, they don't do any flashing. All they do is allow you to choose off, left or right.

kmxtornado said:

Not sure how many wires I'm actually dealing with. Does anyone know how many I need for the turn signals?

Click to expand...

3

To find out the wire colors

Step 1: Unscrew the side cover by removing the two screws.



Step 2: Find out wire colors. Zero testing involved.

In my case its white green blue so....





So as a final bulletproof. *

The blue wire from the handlebar switch goes the red wire on the right turn signal.
The white wire from the handlebar switch goes the red wire on the left turn signal.
Battery positive (red) goes to the green wire on the handlebar switch .
Battery negative (ground/black) gets connected with both grounds (black wires) on the turn signals.



*Assuming your switch is wired the same as mine. It could be different.

OMG, you're so freakin' awesome! I love you. And I've never loved anyone online before so you're totally special. Seriously though, this is amazing. Thanks so much for your response. I will give you tons of credit on my blog for helping me with this! Dude, off to the garage!!!! Thanks man!!!!!

I followed your instructions exactly. Figured I'd wire it up first to be sure it works and that I can even do this myself before mounting. My ghetto wiring job just to get it done. I'll clean it up later. I don't have the proper connectors now.


The light turns on!!! But the problem is that it doesn't blink. When the turn signal is pushed to either side, the LED on that side just turns on. No flashing. Do I need a relay for this??? or maybe a blinker module from Kragen or Autozone? Mind giving me some direction on this? When you rigged yours up, did yours blink? I was assuming the blinker module was built into the handlebar switch, but maybe not? Did I do something wrong?


Do I need one of these?
[youtube]9J_AyjNzOnQ[/youtube]

Pulled out the drill and just went for it:


The drill kept sliding and I wasn't able to get the hole in the same place on both sides. Not symmetrical like I wanted. Booo! Next time I will put a piece of tape on the metal part that I'm drilling so the bit doesn't slide. Don't know why I didn't think of that until just now as I'm writing this post.

So here's the idea coming to life. These license plate bulbs repositioned from the way their were originally designed and mounted in this orientation as turn signals! Nice and clean:


Completed from the rear. Minus the wiring.

kmxtornado said:

The light turns on!!! But the problem is that it doesn't blink.

Click to expand...

As I explicitly said earlier.

cohberg said:

kmxtornado wrote:
I assume the "turn signal flasher" are built into the "turn signal switch" that's the switching they I posted up top. True?

Click to expand...

False, they don't do any flashing. All they do is allow you to choose off, left or right.

Click to expand...

As for making them blink:

kmxtornado said:

or maybe a blinker module from Kragen or Autozone?

Click to expand...

sure, something like that would work.

kmxtornado said:

Mind giving me some direction on this?

Click to expand...

uhh. Wouldn't know until you got the module. Most are just wired inline, 3pin, so you'd have to get two of them. Cut the GND and +, splice in the module (Bat GND, module GND and light GND solder blob)(module + and switch + solder blob)(module active on and light + solder blob)

Edit: Thanks to Kingfish the wiring for the blinker is a lot clearer. What i said can still work the way I said above, it be easier (and cheaper) just to wire one in before the switch. So battery (+) goes to the B terminal on the relay, the green wire from the handlebar switch (center pole) goes to the L terminal and E gets grounded to battery (-).





Hope that clears it up. Again right on the money Kingfish (the diagram you posted is made in visio correct?)

See eBay for Automotive Flashers for LED signal indicators. You will want the 3-pole 12V CF13JL-02 relay. There could be other compatible units, however this is the one that worked for me.

The schematic below describes how I installed the Flasher device on my ebike. Note: The relay on the eBrake has been replaced by a mechanical switch.


Link to thread.

Best of luck, KF

Thanks, you are awesome!!! Can't believe you made it so clear. Now even I can do it. Another question if I may:
Can I power this using a 9v battery? I'm hesitant to tap into the 36v 10ah LiFePo battery b/c I need to swap out the battery onto another bike every now and then and all the connections would be a bit of an inconvenience. I suppose I could just tap into the power wires on the scoot (rather than the ones coming out of the battery itself). Not sure if that would work.

kmxtornado said:

Thanks, you are awesome!!! Can't believe you made it so clear. Now even I can do it. Another question if I may:
Can I power this using a 9v battery? I'm hesitant to tap into the 36v 10ah LiFePo battery b/c I need to swap out the battery onto another bike every now and then and all the connections would be a bit of an inconvenience. I suppose I could just tap into the power wires on the scoot (rather than the ones coming out of the battery itself). Not sure if that would work.

Click to expand...

My system is integrated, and the batteries can be removed independently. I do not think the flasher unit would operate well or at all @ +9 VDC.

Always looking to improve my condition, KF

That long wire that connects from the negative battery terminal to the negative pole on each of the turn signals is like a "Y". Is there a clean wire harness/connector thingy I can purchase premade? I suppose I can use a quick splice. Trying to figure out the cleanest way to do this so it doesn't look like a mess. Any good place to buy connectors in general? Or should I just go ahead and use bullet connectors or quick connectors from a auto parts store?

I'm also about to spend $20 or so on 6 rolls of different colored wire so I can extend the length and make it look clean.

kmxtornado said:

That long wire that connects from the negative battery terminal to the negative pole on each of the turn signals is like a "Y". Is there a clean wire harness/connector thingy I can purchase premade? I suppose I can use a quick splice. Trying to figure out the cleanest way to do this so it doesn't look like a mess. Any good place to buy connectors in general? Or should I just go ahead and use bullet connectors or quick connectors from a auto parts store?

I'm also about to spend $20 or so on 6 rolls of different colored wire so I can extend the length and make it look clean.

Click to expand...

How about a Posi-Tap connector http://www.posi-lock.com/. Can get from eBay or Amazon.

I make my own connections as required and kept a detailed journal and wiring diagram with me in case of trouble. Thought a picture might help here cos I presently have the triangle battery bag removed for the Battery Harness R&R, but it’s a jumble of wires and I think I can explain it better without, so here goes:

• Main Signal Harness: I used a 6-pin square trailer connector which had a good long 4’ length (something like this), and ran that the length of the ebike: Part went to the rear indicators and part went to the trailer. With six conductors, you have:
  • +12 VDC, GND, Left, Right, Brake, and +3.3 VDC.
  • +12 VDC powers automobile LED running lights; my taillight is always ON when the system is activated through the keyswitch.
  • +3.3 VDC runs the Blinkies on the ebike, and the High Powered LED headlights (Cree). I also had Blinkies ready to mount on the trailer but ran out of time, although the cabling-wire is in place.
  • With the Indicators, they have one wire for power, and the shell & hollow mounting bolt are GND. That keeps it pretty simple. The mantra I use is “GND is GND”. Therefore the single wire uses a M/F insulated pin-type connector; rather inglorious but it works. A spade-type will work just as well. I probably picked the pin-type so I could get mounting hardware on/off.
• The DC-DC converter is located under the front fairing: location, location, location. Everything is right there from switches to instruments… it keeps the cable and wiring very short.

At present, I’m in the process of doing hub-rework (almost finished), and rebuilding my battery harness to replace APP connectors with EC5 (5mm) and 4mm barrel connectors – greatly reducing the voltage sags, shorts, and melts. The whole thing has been a kludge from Day-1 with tack-on mods. Now at last, the new design will simplify the issues and eliminate the pesky problems. I might even have time to make a mini-road trip before the fair-weather season is over.

Cheers, KF

Thank you so much kingfish and especially Cohberg for your help. It was Cohberg's diagram that ultimately got my project working. Thanks so much again for your time and effort in creating the wiring diagram specific to my controller and of course for helping me identify what wires do what.

So that you know your effort didn't go to waste, I wanted to show you that the project really did work! And it's you I have to thank for the success of this turn signal project.

PARTS:
- handlebar controller (ebay, $8 or so)
Yes, it's true that the one I have is of poor quality. No doubt about that, but it works.

- wires (ebay, $11 or so)
You can get a variety of colors in a set rather than buying them individually. Home depot has wires too by the length.

- 3 pin flasher (ebay, $1.50 shipped)
As far as I know, they're all the same. Just get the cheapest one and wait for it to arrive in the mail.

- butt connectors (Oreilly Auto Parts, $4)
The controller's wires aren't long enough and you'll need this to extend the wires the correct way.

- other type of connectors (True Value hardware, $3)
If you want any connections to be easily removable, get that type of connector. I don't know what it's called, but you'll want the ones that will connect the wires to the flasher easily.

- heat shrink (True Value hardware, $3)
This is sort optional but is recommended for "waterproofing."

- electrical wire tape (garage, free)
I already had this laying around, but get a roll. It's worth it.

- license plate bolts (ebay, $8)
The bolts I described above are for car license plates, but I rotated the orientation to use them as turn signals. Be sure to get the amber colored ones if you're using this type.

- wire management (Daiso japanese dollar fifty store, $1.50)
This just makes for a cleaner look. I don't like wires everywhere. Also protects it from the elements.

- quick splice connectors (True Value, $3)

TOOLS:
- wire stripper
- wire cutter
- wire crimper

It may help to see how the end product looks like before starting on it yourself. Again, thanks so much Cohberg for creating the wiring diagram for me. I honestly wouldn't have been able to do it alone. Much much appreciated. By the way, I'll send you a few bucks via Paypal as a donation for your effort if you want. Just PM me your Paypal email address.

[youtube]rZYSpm9m7ok[/youtube]

STEP 0:
Unplug your power source.

STEP 1:
Purchase all the parts. I decided I wanted a clean installation, so I purchased a set of wires that are color coded to match the controller I bought. I'm new to all this and I didn't want to get confused by using all black wires and not knowing which one is which. The color coded wires help and for the price, it's decent. The wires coming out of the controller weren't long enough so I wanted the wire wire extension to be white, the green one to be green, etc. Buying them in packs are pricey so I got some short lengths from ebay in a variety of colors.



STEP 2:
Mount your components, mainly the handlebar controller and the lights. Adjust the angle and location so that it's perfectly the way you want it. Decide where you want to mount the flasher. Your wire lengths will be determined by this and the proximity to the battery.

STEP 3:
Identify the wires. Use Cohberg's wiring diagram! In the case that you're using a different controller from the one I used above, use his method for identifying what wire does what. Pretty much just open up that puppy and see what color wire is leading to which switch. Pretty easy and helped me tremendously.

STEP 4:
Extend the controller wires to the proper length. The green, blue and white wires all needed to be lengthened to reach the battery. Measure and connect these wires to the wires coming out of the controller using a butt connector. Use heatshink too if you want. How to use butt connectors? Look it up on Youtube, it's as easy as you think it is. Strip the end of the wire, put it into the butt connector hole, and crimp it.

STEP 5:
If needed, extend the red and black turn signal wires to the battery area. My scoot's way short, so I didn't need to extend it.

STEP 6:
Splice the white wire from the controller to the red wire on the left turn signal using a butt connector.

STEP 7:
Splice the blue wire from the controller to the red wire on the right turn signal using a butt connector.

STEP 8:
Connect the green controller wire to the flasher. This simplifies things b/c now you only have two more pins on the flasher that need something to connect to.



STEP 9:
If you get nervous and don't want to splice your power wires just yet, you can try connecting the proper wires from the diagram temporarily to the battery just to see if the turn signal functions as intended. If it does, then you can go ahead and splice permanently

STEP 10:
This is where it gets complicated. Just follow Cohberg's diagram and it'll be fine. The reason it's tough is b/c our battery is not only being used to operate the turn signal. Chances are that you're using the battery to power your bike as well. This means a lot of splicing of wires.



There's just a lot of wires to keep track of and to make it clean looking is a bit of an effort. You should now still have one black wire coming out from each of the turn signals that aren't connected to anything. This part is complicated b/c both black wires from the turn signals need to be connected to a single wire and the other end of that wire needs to split off again to splice into both the battery and the flasher. You'll spend most of your time on this step.

First just splice the two black wires from the turn signal to a single black wire. You can twist the two wires and just butt connect them into a new black wire to create a Y-shape.



STEP 11:
Splice the turn signal ground wire from step above into the battery and into the flasher. You must still maintain the connection from the battery to the motor of your ebike/escoot. So that means there's an extra splice that's not shown in the wiring diagram. Since my battery is more expensive than my motor, I decided to splice into the power wires on the motor rather than the power wires on my battery. This was also a very conscious decision b/c I wanted my battery to be easily removed independent of this system so that I could use it on another ebike (which I plan to do often).

STEP 12:
Test it again and hopefully it works and looks like this:

[youtube]IfZp73Pw-Hc[/youtube]


THE ONLY HUMP:
The only hump I came across was that I got the negative and positive poles on the flasher reversed. Typically flashers are labeled on the top side so that you can rotate it 90 degrees to see what pin does what. L is obvious since it's at the top, but the E and B aren't so obvious for amateurs like myself. My flasher was labeled on the opposite side of where the pins are which is not the typical standard. I had accidentally mirrored the E and B pins. Once figuring out my mistake, I swapped it and bingo! It worked.