Hubzilla is being a brat

Kiwi said:
ok.
So, i fired up reverse, and tried riding the bike, and it miss fired. SO, I must have a hall issue.
Hence why it would not work in forward. All halls show up on the tester, but sometimes I have found a hall that is not giving out high enough voltage to trigger the controller, but enough for the led on the tester.
Damn.
Click to expand...

Kiwi, thanks for that bit of testing. I'll assume that mine is doing the same. I've got 3 new halls on the way to me, hopefully I'll have them tomorrow or Wednesday...

Gow.
 
new controller, same issues. A bit better, rough off the mark, smoother once up to speed but a oscillating power, and not impressive. Still not right, so what is it? Can the controller not handle it?
 
If you are using a cycle analyst, disconnect it, then try again. If it's a hall issue a sensorless controller should drive it.
 
I've just purchased an sensorless controller (thanks Hyena). I'll test it with that before i change the halls.

Gow.
 
Its fresh, got it about 4 weeks ago.
I have a sensorless contoller from xlyte, will try that.

Its like some sort of timing issue, once up to speed, its not too bad, but I can tell its not right. But off the mark it barks and growls and rumbles.
 
Managed to run my cromotor with a sensorless controller. It runs smooth and strong. Although, I've never used a sensorless controller, so I assume that losing sync under hard acceleration is normal? Anyway, it seems that all the phases are good, So now I'll change the hall sensors.

Cheers,
Gow.
 
>Got new controller (Kelly Controller)
>Wire it up
>Try throttle
>get error code: "Motor did not start. Check phase and hall wires"
>Sad face
>Me too lazy to try all 36 combinations
>Turn to forum for help

Which would be a better bet? Trying all 36 combinations or just replace the halls? Considering hubzilla uses the same exact hall plug as the kelly controller, it seems ridiculous that I have to chop off the connector and rearrange all the wires. Why even bother putting a connector on the hall wires if it's not even going to be in the right combination. I would rather have no connector at all then have one but with the wrong wiring combo.
 
I got it working! To thank endless sphere for putting up with me I'll contribute what color combo gave me a clean forward.

Phase wires. Controller:Motor

Blue:Yellow
Yellow:Green
Green:Blue

Hall wires. Controller:Motor

Yellow:Yellow
Green:Blue
Blue:Green
 
Hi Dan,

which model Kelly did you get? torque throttle that Kelly will do is something I'm very keen to have once I get my Cromotor/Warp running.

cheers,

Brian
 
I got this one:
http://kellycontroller.com/kbs72121l50a24-72v-mini-brushless-dc-controller-p-1175.html
It seems to be perfect for hubzilla. 4000 continuous watts and 10,000 burst watts.
 
DesignerDan said:
I got this one:
http://kellycontroller.com/kbs72121l50a24-72v-mini-brushless-dc-controller-p-1175.html
It seems to be perfect for hubzilla. 4000 continuous watts and 10,000 burst watts.
Click to expand...

Dont mean to be OT, but can you fit a CA on those?
 
There's no direct plug-in but the install is pretty simple. The black and red whites go to the battery pack + and -. The white and blue are the current senor wires and need to be connected to an external shunt. I'll be buying this one: http://www.ebikes.ca/store/photos/Shunt0.5.jpg
The yellow is speed sensor and connects to a hall sensor wire and I honestly don't know what the green wire is for. lol But I will find out and wire it up and see how it all works.
 
I replaced the halls in my cromotor. It was originally misfiring and had no torque. I put in honeywell 41a's. The result: No more misfiring runs smooth and has torque.....BUT, It will still from a dead start lose sync! doesn't seem to be a problem if it is already rolling. Any Ideas???? I'm going to re-program it as i can't remember what I set it to, but I'm not convinced I'm going to fix it by reprogramming.

Not sure what to do from here, I guess I'll have to source and try another controller.

Some notes on the original halls:
The slot that had been cut to fit the halls had burrs created during the cutting process. These burrs were folded back in once the halls were fitted, then encapsulated. In general it's fair to assume that something in this arrangement was causing a short and the misfiring. (that's my theory anyway) I cleaned off the burrs with my finger!

Gow.
 
Kiwi said:
Thats progress, what controller are you running.
Click to expand...

It's a Lyen 184110. I'm away form the bike for a couple of days. I'll try fiddling with the settings when I get back.

Gow.
 
Well my problems with the cromotor seems to be over. new halls, programming adjustment and all is good.

Gow.
 
DesignerDan said:
I got it working! To thank endless sphere for putting up with me I'll contribute what color combo gave me a clean forward.

Phase wires. Controller:Motor

Blue:Yellow
Yellow:Green
Green:Blue

Hall wires. Controller:Motor

Yellow:Yellow
Green:Blue
Blue:Green
Click to expand...

How did you end up with this combo, may I ask? Trial and error, luck or was it a detailed proceedure? I was thinking of buying Hubzilla and a Lyen 12 fet controller but really would hate to deal with guessing the correct configuration.

Thanks in Advance,

Mike
 
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