A2B Metro - www.ultramotor.com - Video Page4

Thanks for the freewheel info WJ, also that's a nice clean bike =D

Where did you get the replacement Kenda Kraze 20x3" from? I have looked around a bit and not found them. I like the tyre's large radius tread profile truncated for the smaller tyre, and have pulled lots of glass shrapnel up to 5mm deep (x10mm long) from the tread.

I need to grease the idler as it can clunk around at times of varied riding, but disappears with load off and on when on a steady straight.

I'm also debating hydraulic brakes, or just more pads for the BB5. I liked the Avid BB5 manual adjustment cable brake performance, and simplicity to tweak while on the road waiting at an intersection you may have just tested the brakes leading up to. Adjustable lever position "standard" with cables, but is a higher spec option for hydraulics. Nearing end of life on the original BB5 pads, the uneven wear and maxed out adjustment means braking strength has dropped off. I'm debating whether to switch to hydraulic like the Code 5 on my 2009 Norco, as I also need a disc front brake set for another bike. I need to put fluid in the front brake of that Code 5, so will do that first as it might help me decide against the hydraulic =P
 
http://ypedal.com/A2B/a2b2.htm

I replaced my pads last year with these from ebay, so far so good, they hold up well, and were cheap.. the BB5 are good brakes..

hydraulics, i have very little experience with them, but seems like they always drag a slight amount, the cable disk can be set to pull away from the rotor completely for a free running brake.. every watt counts !
 
Thanks, I've got them dragging a little now due to the uneven wear to get better braking and the last life out of them. I just consider it a bit more forced effort for the legs.
Besides I'm supposed to have unlimited watt hours in my 200W leg motors and lifepodge264 body fat batteries.
 
Anybody running a Metro at 72V yet? I upgraded to the stealth bomber. Now when I get on the old metro I feel like I'm walking.
If you were to try and mod a metro to run at 72V, it's just a matter of putting the A+B batteries in series, replacing the throttle, choosing a motor and getting it laced, then probably putting a Lyen or Crystalyte controller on the back rack?
 
robohead said:
Anybody running a Metro at 72V yet? I upgraded to the stealth bomber. Now when I get on the old metro I feel like I'm walking.
If you were to try and mod a metro to run at 72V, it's just a matter of putting the A+B batteries in series, replacing the throttle, choosing a motor and getting it laced, then probably putting a Lyen or Crystalyte controller on the back rack?
Click to expand...
Thats what I've done. The A + B batteries are in series with Bypassed BMSs for discharge. It has a Lyen MKII 12Fet controller, BMC V3T motor, Hydraulic brakes.
Unfortunately I've had to leave Greece before I got to put the finishing touches on it... but I get to finish it before the end of this month!
 
The Stig said:
robohead said:
Anybody running a Metro at 72V yet? I upgraded to the stealth bomber. Now when I get on the old metro I feel like I'm walking.
If you were to try and mod a metro to run at 72V, it's just a matter of putting the A+B batteries in series, replacing the throttle, choosing a motor and getting it laced, then probably putting a Lyen or Crystalyte controller on the back rack?
Click to expand...
Thats what I've done. The A + B batteries are in series with Bypassed BMSs for discharge. It has a Lyen MKII 12Fet controller, BMC V3T motor, Hydraulic brakes.
Unfortunately I've had to leave Greece before I got to put the finishing touches on it... but I get to finish it before the end of this month!
Click to expand...

The Stig:
Did you document any of what you have done thus far? I went back a few pages and did not find anything.

I did run across this however http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=35078
 
Hi,
I searched everywhere and finally had to resort to purchasing through the UltraMotors dealer network. It seems that tire was a 2009-2010 model and wasn't replaced with anything. Maybe UM has a warehouse full of them.

I was going to post the url for the freewheel…..guess what? No longer available!
I hope it lasts a while.


wj
 
well, three years-three months-lots of miles and the metro motor has gone -puuuuf.
out riding the other day and all of a sudden things slowed waaaay down, pedaling was waaaaaaay difficult, as if I had the brakes on.

It got a trunk ride home and I checked the continuity of the motor leads....dead short!!!

any advice? buy a new rear wheel/motor
buy a different motor controller and have the rim laced to it


look for a used a2b and grab the motor


thoughts?



wj
 
I'll pop it apart this weekend and see what is burned up


Which specific controller and throttle would you recommend? I'm not looking for problems going forward but would like a bit more acceleration and top speed.
(if I'm going to need to spend a lot of time configuring things (since I want to get back on the road asap) then I'll consider getting the stock wheel assembly and play with the burned unit as time allows)
wj
 
Now what???
umrwa.jpg

Torch, freezer, huge puller, BAH(5~10lb)

I have no idea how to split the halves, tapping with hard mallet around the circumference while using 4 equally spaced tensioners didn’t show any signs that the halves were moving.

If anyone knows…please share the knowledge.

Thanks

wj
 
I'll rent a puller tomorrow and see what is inside.

Assuming I gut the controller and run with an external unit I would love to up the V to 72.
Is this Lyen unit good for that?
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=17683

or this one?
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=18214

or will this work
http://www.ebikessf.com/node/194

What else would I need?
My wallet says that if I expect to accomplish that feat any time soon I will need to shop very carefully.
To that end….could I use this 36V 15A pack
http://www.bmsbattery.com/36v/464-36v-15ah-lithium-ion-electric-bicycle-battery-pack.html
And wire it in series with the stock frame pack?
36V 10A LiMN
If not, is there any other solution that will not raise the cost by more than 50~100 dollars?
(over the 250+/- for the 36v pack+charger)
Thanks for thoughts
 
when my A2B shut down there was an obvious increase in rolling resistance…almost brake like. Just pushing the bike, it had much more rolling resistance. I unplugged the power connector and 4 pin din….(no change)same thing. I checked the brake…it was fine. Got the thing home and turned the bike upside down and loosened the brake adjustment, the wheel would spin less than one revolution by hand. Once I pulled the wheel I checked the bearings…no drag on either one.
If there is no mechanical issue and there is no power source, can a failed controller be the cause for this increased (rotational) resistance?

The inside of the motor looks fine and there isn’t any burned up aroma.
A2BISA.jpg

Larger size
http://www.techcool.com/pstuff/A2BINAL.JPG
 
wymjymn said:
cool, cut the wires and yanked the controller!
decision time is here

wj
Click to expand...
Are you going to mount the controller on top of the rear rack? I upgraded to a stealth bomber a few months back. When I try to ride the old Metro I feel like I would get there faster walking these days. Also did you end up renting or buying anything to open the motor?
 
I had an old 2 jaw puller and by using it and tapping around the circumference with a wood block/hammer it ‘opened up’ for me.
I’m leaning very heavily toward:
Lyen 12 fet controller
72V (hobby king zippy compact)
Edamame modified his in a very similar fashion (different controller) and gets @ 35~38 mph.
Mr Lyen confirmed that I could retain the frame pack (36V) and using the battery pack selector switch on the frame, switch between 36V and 72V…just watching low V when in the 72 mode.
This would give me some range when I want it and also a bit of speed.
(just got a 203mm front rotor coming to help shed some speed, that + regen should be adequate)
Once I order it all up next week and get into it I’ll try to put up a posting with images and info.


wj
 
I figured that the only cost to me in retaining the 36v pack was weight and needing to monitor the lowV when in the 72V mode.
Given that extra pack will give me @ 15~20 miles of increased riding distance I’m inclined to keep it.
Is there something I’m missing here?


wj
 
Ypedal said:
Don't bother with a switch.. just make it 72v
Click to expand...

With the motor gutted of it's controller, any idea what this thing can handle? I seem to recall you saying it could probably handle a 2-3k Watts @ ??? VDC.
 
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