Ideas for dynos
- Thread starter Miles
- Start date
Links:
http://www.foxvalleykart.com/dyno1.html
http://www.sakor.com/Products/Small-Engine-AC-Dynamometers
http://www.land-and-sea.com/absorber/dynamometer_water-brake_absorber.htm
http://www.trik-dyno.com/products/default.html
http://www.stuskadyno.com/xs-19.html
http://www.loadstarsensors.com/
http://www.sensors.co.uk/
http://www.interfaceforce.com/index.php
http://www.futek.com/product.aspx?t=torque
http://www.omega.com/toc_asp/subsectionSC.asp?subsection=f&book=Pressure&all=1
http://www.foxvalleykart.com/dyno1.html
http://www.sakor.com/Products/Small-Engine-AC-Dynamometers
http://www.land-and-sea.com/absorber/dynamometer_water-brake_absorber.htm
http://www.trik-dyno.com/products/default.html
http://www.stuskadyno.com/xs-19.html
http://www.loadstarsensors.com/
http://www.sensors.co.uk/
http://www.interfaceforce.com/index.php
http://www.futek.com/product.aspx?t=torque
http://www.omega.com/toc_asp/subsectionSC.asp?subsection=f&book=Pressure&all=1
I never did a build thread for mine but here is a picture of my inertia motorcycle dyno and my smaller scooter/e-bike dyno. The roller on the big dyno weighs 634.5 lbs and has a movement of inertia of 8.66889 kg.m/\2 I will likely add a eddy brake in the future and I am currently using simpledyno software. I would like to log amps and volts during a run so we can measure system efficiency. I have been looking at the performance trends boxes http://performancetrends.com/DataMitePricesOnly.htm for adding sensors.
Attachments
I'm always acutely aware of how simple your posts are to read and to navigate. The case in point today is your listing of these dynos. You list them as "adrian's dyno" or "burtie's dyno", and when I click the link, I find the corresponding thread title is different from your listing.
Not to detract from your message, but some time would you explain how you do this? I may be computer challenged, however I don't think I'm the only one here who would learn from your sense of order.
Thanks for keeping your stuff so fastidious looking, Miles. It's highly appreciated!
Post Script-WOW!
With totally generous natures, Miles and Arlo both have given up secrets to making our posts look plenty good! See their tips below.
(Now, back to reading about strain gages and other dynamite stuff. Thanks for the links.)
Not to detract from your message, but some time would you explain how you do this? I may be computer challenged, however I don't think I'm the only one here who would learn from your sense of order.
Thanks for keeping your stuff so fastidious looking, Miles. It's highly appreciated!
Post Script-WOW!
With totally generous natures, Miles and Arlo both have given up secrets to making our posts look plenty good! See their tips below.
(Now, back to reading about strain gages and other dynamite stuff. Thanks for the links.)
Harox when you are typing a message there is a row of options above the message you are typing Starting with "B" on left side and ending with "youtube" on the right.HAROX said:
These are the fetures you can use to do things to make your post more fancy. If you hover your mouse over them it will tell you how to implement them. What you are loking for is the "URL" feature. You just copy your link you want to use them use the url feature and name it what you want.
Thank you HAROX!
Here's what it looks like in the posting editor (ignore the asterisks):
[*url=http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=36803]acuteaero's dyno[/url*]
The process is:
- Paste the link from the thread you want to reference into the posting edit window.
- Highlight it with the cursor.
- Click on the URL button.
- Delete the first close brackets character "]" and replace it with an "= "
- Insert a "]" after the link
- Insert the text that you want to display between this "]" and the "[/url]"
Here's what it looks like in the posting editor (ignore the asterisks):
[*url=http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=36803]acuteaero's dyno[/url*]
The process is:
- Paste the link from the thread you want to reference into the posting edit window.
- Highlight it with the cursor.
- Click on the URL button.
- Delete the first close brackets character "]" and replace it with an "= "
- Insert a "]" after the link
- Insert the text that you want to display between this "]" and the "[/url]"
Added to the list:
Jeremy's dyno
Jeremy's dyno
Still thinking about what I can cobble together for my first dyno...
It would be nice to have something that could test the efficiency of transmissions and gearboxes, too.
Anyone think using a hydraulic disc brake system from a motorcycle, partially submerged in a water bath, would be feasible? Coupling would be via synchronous belt drive.
It would be nice to have something that could test the efficiency of transmissions and gearboxes, too.
Anyone think using a hydraulic disc brake system from a motorcycle, partially submerged in a water bath, would be feasible? Coupling would be via synchronous belt drive.
adrian_sm
1 MW
I haven't tried it, but gut feel is that it would be hard to control the torque accurately due to th variation in friction due to heat or water boundary layer effects. Eddy current brake on paper would be a better bet. I reverted to this (using a magnetic cycle trainer) to do some short high load point data for my testing last night.
Question for those with real dynos. How well does the torque correlate with the motor and battery current at full throttle, no controller current limit situation?
Just wondering how crude an efficiency estimate would be using:
Power-out = Kt * (Current - No Load Current) * Wheel rotational speed
Power-in = Volts * Amps
Efficiency = P-out/P-in
Question for those with real dynos. How well does the torque correlate with the motor and battery current at full throttle, no controller current limit situation?
Just wondering how crude an efficiency estimate would be using:
Power-out = Kt * (Current - No Load Current) * Wheel rotational speed
Power-in = Volts * Amps
Efficiency = P-out/P-in
Thanks Adrian,adrian_sm said:
That seems to be the problem that Jeremy encountered with his disc brake dyno. By using a larger disc and running it in a large enough bath, the temperature variation shouldn't be that great? A finer control should be possible on the hydraulics than on the cable system Jeremy used.
I'll certainly investigate cycle trainers.
adrian_sm
1 MW
I think docbass gutted exercise bikes for his. Better than the wheel driven type I have, as you could couple the motor more easily, and the quality would be better if you can get a scrapped one for cheap.
[EDIT] Link to Doctorbass's dyno thread
[EDIT] Link to Doctorbass's dyno thread
I think the trailer brakes they use for small trailers may work nice as well they are little electro magnets that you vary the power to to vary the amout of brakes.
I wonder how much power you can pull from just the magnet... http://www.princessauto.com/pal/product/8212078/
I wonder how much power you can pull from just the magnet... http://www.princessauto.com/pal/product/8212078/
Ok so im going to order the dyno datamite usbIII from performance trends
I might opt for the 100$ pro software option. I need something that can do all this for my buisness as well as further proper acurate testing of electrics.
Any sugestions are welcome. I would love to build my own with ardrino or something cheep and write my own code etc but I have very little extra time.
I might opt for the 100$ pro software option. I need something that can do all this for my buisness as well as further proper acurate testing of electrics.
Any sugestions are welcome. I would love to build my own with ardrino or something cheep and write my own code etc but I have very little extra time.
The guy from Simple dyno Damon ( think that's his name lol) is going to move forward with an Arduino based setup so we can sample Volts and Amps on the fly and log them into the Simpledyno program. The arduino uno is what he plans to use so I will order one or 2 lol looks hand for other things. But I like the DIY idea and in the future I should be able to add a load cell this way.
Farfle
100 kW
Lotsa safe in that there thread.
