Front Mounted Case/Rubber Mounts/Mid Mnt w LED Light-PHOTOS!

Kent

1 kW
Joined
Jun 4, 2011
Messages
384
Location
Vermont, USA
First many thanks to Oatnet for giving us the original idea and inspiration, and the great tip about fork mounted clamps :idea: .
In the beginning...
Jamis 1 Original.jpg
A year later...

For info on my downsizing to a 24" moped rear, go here: http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=39751
I originally embarked on the front mounted battery idea by working backwards. First I decided that I wanted to go with Lifepo because I wanted plug and play and realized that my memory isn’t what it used to be. Plus I live in an apartment. I recognized the cost and weight penalty. Since I had already experienced a Ping 36 v 15ah on my first bike, and having decided to embark on full 72 volt on my new build, I realized that a 72 v brick would be way too big, so decided to use two separate 36 volt packs hooked together in series.

Next, after having decided on (2) 36 volt 10 ah batteries from Emissions Free, I checked his sizing chart (very handy) and determined what size my front case would have to be for the square brick that I chose.. I just couldn’t find the size I wanted in a Pelican Case and being eager at the bit, found a lighter duty one at the local battery store. Oh well, it got me started.

But there was the problem of how to mount it as it wasn’t sturdy enough to just drill holes with a few bolts, so I came across front mount luggage racks and decided to try one of those. The bottom legs of the rack attached to the fork clamps and the top to the handlebar via a couple of clamps from Amazon.

Battery Box front resized..jpg

This setup turned out to be not sturdy enough as my front fork, a Marczocchi Bomber, is very stiff and there was too much pounding. The rack broke in several places. Another problem with this fork was limited 100mm travel, so it was best that I keep it stiff as the clamps took 1” off the travel. Details, details.

Fork clamps resized.jpg

Broken Front Rack.jpg

Well it got me through the summer and I finally located the case I was looking for. Large enough for the battery and some electrics but no larger than necessary. I found it on E-Bay. Perfect size. I was tempted to paint it grey to match the bike but decided that the yellow was such a great attention/safety feature so i kept it.

Stormcase 1.jpg

View attachment 12

This time around I skipped the front rack idea, and decided to mount it more securely. Attached the top of the case to the handlebars with clamps from Amazon:

Stormcase 9.jpg

The bottom I mounted the case on "L" brackets which are secured to the fork clamps. And keeping in mind the pounding, I cushioned the case by installing rubber isolation biscuits which are secured by bolts which go through the bottom of the case and screw directly into the top of the rubbers which have implanted threaded nuts. On the bottoms of the rubbers are bolts permanantly attached.

Rubber Mount.jpg


View attachment 11

The wiring process-strictly Saturday morning at the kitchen table with the latest ideas..

Stormcase 3.jpg

Sitting on a piece of foam, its a tight fit. Someday I'll make up a divider to separate the battery from the electrics.

Stormcase 12.jpg

I was originally going to go with a couple of small LEDs that many have used, but but then I came across this little gem on sale at Northern Tool. It fits on the front of the case really well and is out of the road.

Northern Tool Light.jpg

View attachment 6

Stormcase 11.jpg

Remarkable the little 20 watt dc:dc converter from ebikes.ca has held up to all the electrical demands quite well. I wish though that they would upgrade the diameter of the wires.

Edit: Here is a photo of the rear light described furthur down. A terrific light for the $:

Wald basket full.jpg

The second battery box build is here: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=12847&start=350 page 15
 
Thanks for the kind words. I guess if its too bright, and cars start flashing their lights at me, the poor dears, then I could filter the brightness by putting a pice of clear plastic over it although i hate to.
 
I think it looks great nice work.. very clean looking.

It's funny riding on my bike at dusk going by a motorcycle and him giving you the cool guys hand wave.
 
Now for the second battery. Here is a comparison shot of the two batteries together. Both 36 volt, 11.5 ah. The square brick went in the front rack, the flat one I mounted on the top tube in front of the seat.

Batterys together.jpg

I got the flat one specifically to mount on the top rail in front of the seat. I wanted to keep the rear rack free for cargo and also to better distribute the weight. This way it is equally spread out front/middle/rear wheel. The bike handles well and doesn't wag its tail. Anyway, someone on here gave me the idea (many thanks!) for taking a standard seat tube mount, and re-welding it so it would face front. Seemed like a great idea so first step was making a pattern:

Cardboard Pattern.jpg

Then using the pattern to trace onto alum plate, cut it out, and finally welded onto the reversed rack:

Middle rack fabricated.jpg

On it goes.

View attachment 1

A left over bag from my first e-bay kit and some straps:

Bag mounted.jpg

A 2 into 1 "Y" harness before the contoller completes the set up. Yup, I found the diodes weren't necessary as the packs are the same chemistry and I am able to isolate them and charge them separately. All the electrics and the dc/dc converter run off the front pack which is isolated with the on/off key so i don't get the 72 v rush on the controller first thing.

Well, the last stage on my build is a rear 19" moped rim with 2.50 tire from JRH, and a front DMR 24" 20mm wheel with a 2.35 Big Apple from Chain Reaction Cycles.

Many thanks-too numerous to mention-to the many here on ES who have inspired me and given me much needed advice along the way. Theres no beating doing it yourself-for yourself! I see now how so many jump right into another build.
 
The front amber running lights are cheap Walmart LED's that are like $8 each. Two screw holes in the (plastic) mounting base. I like these cause they take no power and you can see them from the side.

The turn signals I bought as a kit of four with brackets meant to be mounted on a bike. A bit pricey, you could create your own by hunting down parts. The key is the turn signal switch and the flasher which is a standard 12 v universal type. But they do give you a wiring diagram to hook it all up: http://www.heeters.com

turn signal light cluster.jpg

For the rear turn signals, I skipped the two in the kit and instead hooked up this which has tail/breaklight and turn signals in a nice compact package. Very affordable. Watch out for your grounds on all this stuff, though, as some of the lights have individual grounds, and some are automotive style that assume a chassis ground.

Tail light.jpg

A very handy little fella which I found useful when tracing circuits and hooking stuff up. A tiny 12 volt, 5ah battery from the local battery supply. Charge it up with a regular auto charger.

Tiny battery.jpg

And finally, what gave me the most grief about wiring was dealing with the tiny , small guage diameter wire with all this stuff. 24 and 26 gauge. Ug! :evil: Strip it a little too deep and take out two strands and you've blown it! So after many tries with my $5 flea market special, I broke down and bought this. It made all the difference! :D

wire cutters.jpg
 
I bought a set of those heeters turn signals also. Even got the guy to let me pay via paypal.

Looking good bud. Nice welding work on that reverse rack battery mount very creative.
 
Thanks Ohzee but I had the welding done at the local welding shop. I'm just not equipped. But back in the day, I had fun gas welding alum.
 
Wow, just came across this build, you did some great stuff with it, good job. I think that is the same pelican I used on my A-Line build, the lights you put on it disguise its purpose even better. I've got to take a look at the turn signal kit, I've been thinking about that a lot lately.

-JD
 
oatnet said:
I've got to take a look at the turn signal kit, I've been thinking about that a lot lately.
Seriously good move - I wouldn't go out on the road without them. Beyond cluing in the autos to biker intentions, it actually seems to elicit quite a bit of courtesy from them - I regularly have cars stop and wave me through turns... :D
 
The more lights, reflectors, flashers and bright green attire I add to my rig; the more close calls I have commuting.
I'm about ready to ditch all the safety stuff, go with a wonky Wal-mart incandescant handlebar headlight and only one rear red reflector to return to the years when I could commute unmolested. :twisted:
 
The fingers said:
"The more lights, reflectors, flashers and bright green attire I add to my rig; the more close calls I have commuting."

Maybe you over did it Bud and theyre too busy gawking.

I have found too that if I wait patiently at a light, waiting for my turn with the turn signal flashers on, people give me alot of respect and many give me a "go ahead" friendly wave. It also lets them know wtf your doing with a bike in the middle of an intersection... :D
 
Kent;

I loved your ideal of reversing the mount on the rear rack for use in front of the seat post. I don't weld alumium, so I'll have to come up with another way. thought about cutting the tube and sleeve it and exposey or rivet on over the joint.

In the picture of the universal turn signal is the handlebar switch shown? I am going to check my local Pep boys to see if they have kit.

thanks a lot

Jerry
 
chisixer6 said:
Kent;

I loved your ideal of reversing the mount on the rear rack for use in front of the seat post. I don't weld alumium, so I'll have to come up with another way. thought about cutting the tube and sleeve it and exposey or rivet on over the joint.

In the picture of the universal turn signal is the handlebar switch shown? I am going to check my local Pep boys to see if they have kit.

thanks a lot

Jerry


Jerry, the switch in the kit is on the photo, it is the light colored (silver) object in the middle on the left hand side. It clamps on standard 7/8" od handlebars. If you have beefy mtn bike bars, you may have to make a bracket for it. If you figure all the time and effort of hunting down all the parts, and mounting brackets for the lights, i think it is a good deal unless you can source it all locally.
 
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