Cycle Analyst V3 preview and first beta release

I am about to upgrade my bike to 74v lipo, but I'm using the Thun PAS sensor. As far as I understand I will fry the CA3 if I have the Thun connected while running at 74 volt. So to do this I need to cut the 10v supply (white wire) and feed the Thun with 12v from a dc-dc step down converter? Is this correct and the only thing I need to do?

Does anyone know where I can get a small dc-dc converter with input max >84v? The only ones I find are 10A and relatively big. I can build one myself if someone can point me to the correct semiconductor, the only ones I have are LM7812 and LM317.
 
lollandster said:
As far as I understand I will fry the CA3 if I have the Thun connected while running at 74 volt. So to do this I need to cut the 10v supply (white wire) and feed the Thun with 12v from a dc-dc step down converter? Is this correct and the only thing I need to do?
Correct.

lollandster said:
Does anyone know where I can get a small dc-dc converter with input max >84v? The only ones I find are 10A and relatively big. I can build one myself if someone can point me to the correct semiconductor, the only ones I have are LM7812 and LM317.
Not sure of your packaging requirements, but here's an ES thread about re-purposing laptop power supplies. A quick eBay search turns up some 12v candidates for less than $10. The ones for the Asus netbook are only 3A and look nice and small (about 1x1.3x3.34in - 26x35x85mm). This approach gets a waterproof package with easy hookup.

If you go this route, the supply will be isolated and so you will also need to jump the supply Gnd to your bike Gnd somewhere (e.g. black wire on Thun without cutting it, or Vbatt(-) if you want to use the extra 12v power for lights, etc).
 
lollandster said:
I have a lot of 12V switching power supplies laying around, but I never knew they could do DC-DC.
I thought it was a pretty good trick, as well... :)

On the other hand, if you want to fab something, your really don't need much current. The Thun spec doesn't call out a current requirement, but the CA 10v supply is rated to 15ma max. Emailing Justin might get you a better handle on the observed draw.

In any case, you could just use a zener in series with a small DC-DC module (search eBay) or the LM317 component regulator you called out above to get your regulator Vin into range. So worst case, for something like an 80v Vbatt you might be regulating down from 30v to 12v leaving 80-30~=50v for the zener drop. 50v * 15ma = 750mW. Parts around 51v with a zener current in that range are <$0.25 at Mouser. If you have zeners in your parts bin, you can series up a couple of lower voltage parts as long as Izmax is okay.
 
izeman said:
just wanted to ask if the 'fail safe' start is implemeted. what i mean is that the ca restarts with a predefined mode no matter what you used before.
Not at this time. It seems to always restart using the preset in use at shutdown.

A quick review of the available Setup parameters in this file and review of the memory map for B21 in this file show no provisions for this feature...

Justin indicated that he was going to pursue 'preset switch' functionality for the Aux POT input. That might provide a suitable replacement for the feature you describe.
 
Thank you, teklektik, for this service. I'm waiting on my CA v3. I'm sure your notes will prove invaluable when it's time for me to set everything up.
 
Hi,

I'm having throttle connection problem, just can't get it work.

The set up: throttle is connected to CAs Thi, DP cable is connected to SA-sunt, there are 3 wires running from the SA-sunt black, yellow, green and 3 wires running from the controller black, red, blue i connect the blue and the green wires push the throttle and nothing happens.
Does the black and red wires of the controller need to be connected somewhere ?

CA setings:
THROT IN
POWER
Min - 0.99 Volts
Max - 3.99 Volts
Fault - 4.49 Volts

THROT OUT
Voltage
Min 1.00 Volts
Max 4.65 Volts
Up Ramp 500
Down Ramp 500

Michael
 
Michall2008 said:
I'm having throttle connection problem, just can't get it work.

The set up: throttle is connected to CAs Thi, DP cable is connected to SA-shunt, there are 3 wires running from the SA-shunt black, yellow, green and 3 wires running from the controller black, red, blue i connect the blue and the green wires push the throttle and nothing happens.

CA settings:
THROT IN
POWER
Min - 0.99 Volts
Max - 3.99 Volts
Fault - 4.49 Volts

THROT OUT
Voltage
Min 1.00 Volts
Max 4.65 Volts
Up Ramp 500
Down Ramp 500
A couple more details:
  • Did your bike work okay with this throttle/controller prior to hooking in the V3? (i.e. this is an add-on not a new build)
  • Are your throttle +5 and Gnd hooked up to the CA as well? (I assume so, but just making sure since you only mentioned Thi...)
  • Do the IN and OUT values on the diagnostic screen (one left of Main Display) follow your throttle motion?
  • Have you verified that the voltage on the controller 'Throttle IN' pin (blue wire) follows the OUT reading on the diagnostic screen?
Power Throttle is not a good starting configuration because it causes some odd throttle behavior with the bike on the stand. You should start with PassThru. This won't fix anything, but the throttle will work more like what you expect.

Your ThrO->MaxOutput looks a little high, like it might cause a controller input fault - best to test and verify that is the proper value once you get over this first little bump in the road...
 
Hi teklektik,

Yes, when the throttle connected directly to the controller it work fine.

Yes, The throttle is connected to CAs Thi plag via the original connector (all three wires)

Yes, when i push the throttle the diagnostic numbers follow and the throttle gauge is also moving.

Have you verified that the voltage on the controller 'Throttle IN' pin (blue wire) follows the OUT reading on the diagnostic screen?

I connect a voltmeter across the black (SA shunts) and blue (the blue and the green are connected) wire, the voltmeter reading follows the ThO of the CA.

Changed to PassThru and adjust the thrO settings so they now lower then Thi, steal not working :(

Here is a diagram of the set up (the battery, battery connection and motor connection does not shown here )

CAwairing_zps574a4511.png


Michael
 
Michall2008 said:
Yes, when the throttle connected directly to the controller it work fine.
Good.
Yes, The throttle is connected to CAs Thi plag via the original connector (all three wires)
Good.
Yes, when i push the throttle the diagnostic numbers follow and the throttle gauge is also moving.
Good.
teklektik said:
Have you verified that the voltage on the controller 'Throttle IN' pin (blue wire) follows the OUT reading on the diagnostic screen?
I connect a voltmeter across the black (SA shunts) and blue (the blue and the green are connected) wire, the voltmeter reading follows the ThO of the CA.
Good. But very puzzling....

Hmmm - so it seems the V3 is working and is producing the configured output voltage, but the controller doesn't like it.

A few more things:
  1. What type of controller is this?
  2. Please repeat the last test but measure the voltage from the blue/green wire junction to the Gnd (black) wire of the controller throttle connection (not the shunt) and verify that the voltage that the controller sees varies with the throttle OUT display as before.
  3. Just for kicks, please measure the voltage between the shunt black wire and the controller throttle Gnd (black) -should be zero. Turn the throttle and it should stay at zero.
  4. Just to clear up a small point, please plug in the throttle to the controller and measure the blue wire to Gnd (black throttle wire) voltage at which the wheel begins to turn (ThrO->MinOutput) and stops turning faster (ThrO->MaxOutput).
None of this is going to fix anything, but it may help figure out your puzzle...
 
1. Its 1KW/36V YK43 brushed controller
2. The voltage is always zero
3. The same thing here, always zero
4.As a load im using 2 halogen bulbs, pulls about 900W at WOT. Start glowing at 1.8, WOT is 4.83 (I'm using a not very accurate voltmeter so +- 0.1v)

amberwolf said:
some older controlelrs' ca ports put th e ca trhottle line to the brake pad instead of throtlte pad. i had to fix mine.

Instead of connecting the CAs ThO to controllers Thi, connect brake signal pin to controllers Thi ?

Michael
 
Michall2008 said:
Instead of connecting the CAs ThO to controllers Thi, connect brake signal pin to controllers Thi ?
you wouldn't want t o wire a new on eup that way. i maaeant that on some old controllser that cmae wth ca connecotrs, they could already come wired like that. mine was. ihad to move hte controller thi to the throtlte pad from the ebraek pad.
 
teklektik said:
Michall2008 said:
teklektik said:
Have you verified that the voltage on the controller 'Throttle IN' pin (blue wire) follows the OUT reading on the diagnostic screen?
I connect a voltmeter across the black (SA shunts) and blue (the blue and the green are connected) wire, the voltmeter reading follows the ThO of the CA.
Good. But very puzzling....
Hmmm - so it seems the V3 is working and is producing the configured output voltage, but the controller doesn't like it.

Just to confirm, when the controller's throttle input is supplied by an ordinary throttle going from 1-4V then it works fine, but when it is supplied from the CA3, also doing exactly the same 1-4V then it doesn't respond? I don't know anything about this controller, but there is a chance that it might be looking for a small current on either the 5V or Gnd return of the throttle wire to check if a throttle is actually plugged in, and if it doesn't see any current flowing then it ignores whatever signal is present on the input line. It's not a bad safety strategy. For instance, without it you can unplug a throttle from a controller, then put a drop of water that bridges the 5V and Signal pins, and cause the bike to take off.

Most hall throttles draw about 5mA, so you could mimic that by putting a 1K resistor between the 5V and Gnd of the controller throttle cable and then see what happens.

There is also a faint possibility that your controller has a floating throttle input. I've never seen that on an ebike controller, only more powerful units, but if so you would need to connect the ground leads together as well.

-Justin
 
Thank you, teklektik, amberwolf, and Justin for your help :D

The 1K resistor did the job

Wonderful product and customer service

Michael
 
Michall2008 said:
amberwolf said:
some older controlelrs' ca ports put th e ca trhottle line to the brake pad instead of throtlte pad. i had to fix mine.
Instead of connecting the CAs ThO to controllers Thi, connect brake signal pin to controllers Thi ?
No - this does not apply - you are using a new V3 shunt not a controller DP connector...

Here's a link to a similar controller/wiring - no surprises. Yours seems to have ebrake wires as well. From eBay:

YK43_pinout.jpg
Michall2008 said:
1. Its 1KW/36V YK43 brushed controller
2. The voltage is always zero
3. The same thing here, always zero
4.As a load im using 2 halogen bulbs, pulls about 900W at WOT. Start glowing at 1.8, WOT is 4.83 (I'm using a not very accurate voltmeter so +- 0.1v)
Okay. So it seems by (2) and your previous post that the CA ThrOUT voltage on the blue/green wire junction of CA ThrOUT and controller ThrIN is appearing relative to the CA Gnd but not relative to the controller throttle Gnd. According to (3) the throttle Gnd and CA Gnd may be the same. Puzzling. (Actually looks like either a bad blue/green connection or a different ground reference - neither of which seem likely...)

By (4) it looks like the CA can be adjusted to yield the necessary voltages. (Good)

Hmmm - You did not show the shunt connections wired into your battery red/black (+/-) leads on your diagram, but I'm assuming that the shunt is wired in since the CA has power.

Unfortunately, (1) pretty much puts me in trouble with no brushed controller experience... I can think of some things to try, but it would just be guessing and experimenting. The fastest path to a solution is probably for you to email the support folks at Grin Tech and just briefly point them to these posts which describe your problem and have a bunch of useful information to jump start the discussion.

While you are waiting for a reply, you might hook up the throttle to the controller again and verify that the CA measures Watts on the main display as you advance the throttle. This is a small thing but it will ensure that the shunt and CA power connections are 100% correct.

EDIT - Ah! I missed Justin's post - and your response. Good news! Lesson - don't post before morning coffee... :D
 
Hi teklektik,

Its ok now every thing works fine, I followed Justis instructions and put a 1K resistor across negative and positive controllers Thi that solved the problem. :D

Thanks again teklektik :wink:

Michael
 
Thought I'd write a quick post on the off chance others had the same question as I did.

I have a cell_man mac and 30 amp controller and I was wondering if the cruise control would still work properly when the CA is used with throttle mapping/limitting.

Turns out it does for the most part as does the three speed switch wrt the controller functionality. One slight issue is that using the throttle to disconnect the cruise is now unreliable so either the cruise button or e-brakes (wired directly to the controller) are needed.

Now off to play with some reed switches for ebrakes ...
 
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