izeman
1 GW
what other issues do you have? i guess i have solved most of them this way or another.t3sla said:
New Crystalyte Motor series (HT35 / HS35 and HT24 / HS24)
- Thread starter vodka
- Start date
t3sla
10 kW
izeman said:
Well the use of mushrooms instead of screws (should have been flat and flush with counter sinking)
The fact they use epoxy instead of locktight (should be able to remove the case without stripping mushroom screws)
Bearing not seeded flat, you can see the wobble on the gear side.
Side cover not flush can see oscillation.
Short wire length.
Axel quality is good, no complaints there.
hydro-one
10 kW
just wait . Ive broken four of the axles on this motor, finally cooking windings on both my motors. but then again im hard on shit, i was only running a torque arm on one side for two of the failures, do not overtightent this axle, make some beef torque plates and youll be fine . max was happy to find me 5 axles (not exactly cheaply). im out of these motors now, and i wont miss them (bought probably 10 for me and friends). hated the wires/halls/etc issues
t3sla
10 kW
hydro-one said:
You must have been running high power and enjoying it enough to overcome that fact your axle would fail.
If there was any doubt in my mind over the quality of the axle I'd use the motor as a meat rotisserie or lazy suzan :lol:
Instead of underneath me at decent speed with the ability to fail.
My TA's are nice and snug, first time around I had a little rocking and it obviously got worse with time.
This go around I've go them so snug and secure that it's a pain to remove them
Need a quality mid sized hub, what brand did you move onto?
MAGICPIE3FOCUSPOWER
10 kW
I have grind down the axle.
And fitted military 3x 12awg teflon with 5x1,16 mm FEP wires and as extra protection heatshrink for this cable harness.
Fit nice and easy I can remove cover without damaging cable harness.
Ps I have also installed hall sensors SS411a..
I had to laced all spokes head facing outside, due outside covers spokes holes are not countersunk....
Only inside spokes holes are countersunk.
And fitted military 3x 12awg teflon with 5x1,16 mm FEP wires and as extra protection heatshrink for this cable harness.
Fit nice and easy I can remove cover without damaging cable harness.
Ps I have also installed hall sensors SS411a..
I had to laced all spokes head facing outside, due outside covers spokes holes are not countersunk....
Only inside spokes holes are countersunk.
MAGICPIE3FOCUSPOWER said:I have grind down the axle.
And fitted military 3x 12awg teflon with 5x1,16 mm FEP wires and as extra protection heatshrink for this cable harness.
Fit nice and easy I can remove cover without damaging cable harness.
Ps I have also installed hall sensors SS411a..
I had to laced all spokes head facing outside, due outside covers spokes holes are not countersunk....
Only inside spokes holes are countersunk.
do you have any pics of how you modded the axle.
adam
MAGICPIE3FOCUSPOWER
10 kW
Hmm too bad I didn't took pictures when modding.
But I have just use:
Dremel with miller drill bit.
High speed hand drill with normal HSSdrill bits.
Sandpaper.
Quite easy because the axle is not hard metal
But I have just use:
Dremel with miller drill bit.
High speed hand drill with normal HSSdrill bits.
Sandpaper.
Quite easy because the axle is not hard metal
izeman
1 GW
imho you don't need to mod the axle. it's easier to do if you lift the bearing from the axle a bit. that way you can enter the cables and then you press the bearing down. i even would re-think modding the axle. if you take away too much material you will loose strength.xadmx said:
MAGICPIE3FOCUSPOWER
10 kW
Where can I buy the motorseal?
Thanks!
Thanks!
MAGICPIE3FOCUSPOWER
10 kW
A new version of these motors are now equipped with hex cover screws?
MAGICPIE3FOCUSPOWER
10 kW
Thanks I have luck looks much better and the spokes are drilled well.
I have also the older version with Philips screws, wuaaww that motor looks very cheap.
Spokes holes are drilled like with shaky hand drill...
I have also the older version with Philips screws, wuaaww that motor looks very cheap.
Spokes holes are drilled like with shaky hand drill...
MAGICPIE3FOCUSPOWER
10 kW
Okay new version hex screws are a joke.
Those screws holes (where you insert the hex key) are not centered :lol:
And they are even worse as the old version screws >>> hard to remove.
Also these hex screws are not metric... :x
Those screws holes (where you insert the hex key) are not centered :lol:
And they are even worse as the old version screws >>> hard to remove.
Also these hex screws are not metric... :x
told you so they are utter garbage!
I've been thinking to drill out the holes and fit decent low profile M5 hexes (if M5 is possible at least) M6 will be to big
still have to take a look at it tho, I've only tried the removal on my spare HT3525 but since it is a spare motor I don't really care about it that much and it has been sitting in the box since April :lol:
they are utter garbage!I've been thinking to drill out the holes and fit decent low profile M5 hexes (if M5 is possible at least) M6 will be to big
still have to take a look at it tho, I've only tried the removal on my spare HT3525 but since it is a spare motor I don't really care about it that much and it has been sitting in the box since April :lol:
MAGICPIE3FOCUSPOWER
10 kW
It's quite simple to remove those stupid hex screws.
Just use a orx socket, which it's a little thicker then the hex screw hole.
Use a hammer and punch and now remove the screws 8)
But the Ht3525 can handle more amps then HS3540?
Just use a orx socket, which it's a little thicker then the hex screw hole.
Use a hammer and punch and now remove the screws 8)
But the Ht3525 can handle more amps then HS3540?
MAGICPIE3FOCUSPOWER
10 kW
And what about torque at high speed?
I like to have torque and high speed...
I like to have torque and high speed...
with enough amps you'll get the torque you need out of a HS3540 with plenty of speed :lol: mine does power wheely's
but keep an eye on the temp tho, I wouldn't do this if there are a lot of hills, just for quick standing stops if you want to outrun kids on mopeds
but keep an eye on the temp tho, I wouldn't do this if there are a lot of hills, just for quick standing stops if you want to outrun kids on mopeds
MAGICPIE3FOCUSPOWER
10 kW
Thanks!
What is your speed and voltage?
Yes I have ordered HS3540 but send me the HT3525
Also the axle is a new design, it's now a hollow axle instead of groove axle.
Looks like the shaving issue is solved now...
What is your speed and voltage?
Yes I have ordered HS3540 but send me the HT3525
Also the axle is a new design, it's now a hollow axle instead of groove axle.
Looks like the shaving issue is solved now...
MAGICPIE3FOCUSPOWER
10 kW
Hmmm so I have the latest version?
Also the motorseal cap is new, the motorseal now rotate around this cap instead around the wiring loom.
Your motor also has this new motorseal cap?
Also the motorseal cap is new, the motorseal now rotate around this cap instead around the wiring loom.
Your motor also has this new motorseal cap?
MAGICPIE3FOCUSPOWER
10 kW
Also this bike is building for high range!
Battery will be 24S lifepo4 so a better choice will be HT3525?
Battery will be 24S lifepo4 so a better choice will be HT3525?
MAGICPIE3FOCUSPOWER
10 kW
Thanks for your help! 8)
Yes I am riding now 48V HS3540 and the distance is about 45 km at 40 km/h.
So the HT should eat more distance at same speed?
While at low speed torque is more then HS motor?
Yes I am riding now 48V HS3540 and the distance is about 45 km at 40 km/h.
So the HT should eat more distance at same speed?
While at low speed torque is more then HS motor?
