E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners
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Kepler
10 MW
Wow. I'm impressed. 8) Will make one hell of a battery pack. What sort config would you wire them in?
Kepler
10 MW
22S 3P is a good config. Means you can use the stock controller if you want. A bit more voltage then a stock bomber pack and you should have very little sag under power. 30Ah will give amazing range. I couldn't see any specs on the actual size and weight of the packs but I would estimate you will add 6kg to the bike. Not too bad considering. If you really can fit them in, it would be a great setup. That is a lot of LiPo though especially if you havent got previous experience with LiPo powered bikes. Make sure you read all you can before taking the plunge.
Rix
100 TW
Longshot said:
Longshot, those 17x1.6" are a specail run for Voltriders and aren't manufactured on any kind of normal basis. If you want to run Prowheel racing rims, you will have to settle for the 17 or 19 x1.4" like I have done. They work fine and will serve you well. Like I told Stealthrider, there isn't going to be much difference at all between the 1.4 and 1.6 wide rims. The 1.4 will allow the tires to inflate just slightly more rounded and the 1.6 will allow the the tire to spread just slightly wider. Probably would be able to see the differnce but you would with a micrometer. If you want to get the 1.6, contact Voltriders. Wow your perspective power source can be only be desribed by one word, holyshit.
Rick
QMS
1 kW
Hey guys here's a few pics of the new 2013 Quigley Motorsport F.M.J. Stealth Bomber using the new version 3.0 CA and before anybody says anything, it will be getting dirty this weekend. :lol:
Kepler
10 MW
Nasty. I have one on my Fighter too. I better give it a good check. Hope you didn't hurt yourself.
Rix
100 TW
Thats great Kep, I like your PAS setup. Engaged when you are sight seeing or JRA, and when you have the need for speed, just twist the throttle and go. SWEET! I wish I had the know how you have.
QMS, that is one very nice Quigly special army green bomber you have. Thats so pretty, I would have a hard time getting it dirty, at first. Kind of like a new car, you are afraid to park it in a public lot or store lot until the first scratch, then its no more of a concern.
Dh Paule, thats a bumber with the seat post, what happened. Land a big one seated?
Rick
dh-paule
10 kW
- Joined
- Dec 1, 2012
- Messages
- 517
Rix said:
no, nothing special
it happend on a wavy trail, was pedaling an surfing the waves, and then "knock"... short hit at the rear wheel with my ass(shorts) , then I lost control and crashed into the wood... result: right knee turns into blue colour, left shin got some scratches, my stomach too (from the seatpost leftover)
fortunately the cranks are not bent during the crash
morati
10 kW
Mr. Quigley, since you've owned an older version of the Bomber and this new 2013 model, do you know any differences in ride characteristics between the two?
snapperboy87
10 W
- Joined
- Jan 30, 2013
- Messages
- 70
Hello, forumboard.
I have some questions. I having some issues with my bike. I rode my bike to school and my luck a afternoon thunderstorm rained all over my bike. I rode it home no problem. I waited a day to let everything dry out in all. before I started charging. I charged my bike about a day ago. I just today wanted to take it for a ride. Turned over the key and reset my CA. I twisted the gas and nothing. Turned it off then back on. I tried the gas again. I got it to go but was jerky there was a clicking sounds felt like it wasn't getting enough power or maybe too much. Maybe a short in a wire. I did take it off the charger as soon as it turned green but I don't see how that would effect it. I am not sure what it could be being it worked fine The other day. Also my chain is super loose how would I go about adjusting the chain tension. I really hope you guys can help I don't like not being able to ride my bike.
I have some questions. I having some issues with my bike. I rode my bike to school and my luck a afternoon thunderstorm rained all over my bike. I rode it home no problem. I waited a day to let everything dry out in all. before I started charging. I charged my bike about a day ago. I just today wanted to take it for a ride. Turned over the key and reset my CA. I twisted the gas and nothing. Turned it off then back on. I tried the gas again. I got it to go but was jerky there was a clicking sounds felt like it wasn't getting enough power or maybe too much. Maybe a short in a wire. I did take it off the charger as soon as it turned green but I don't see how that would effect it. I am not sure what it could be being it worked fine The other day. Also my chain is super loose how would I go about adjusting the chain tension. I really hope you guys can help I don't like not being able to ride my bike.
I would remove the battery, disconnect everything, remove the foam rubber and hit it all with compressed air. See if there is any water flying around. Then I would remove the throttle and see if you can get any water to come out. Move it to WOT and let it snap back a bunch of times. Do the same with the regen button. Maybe disconnect the motor and check them. Then hit everything with a hair dryer to evap and water that may be in there. You don't want to remove the CA if you don't have to but hit the bottom of it with the hair dryer and see if the screen fogs up. I guess the controller too.
For the chain, buy 2 m14 x 1.5 flange nuts, remove the old nuts and washers, hand tighten the flange nuts so the wheel can still move back, tighten the chain adjuster nuts until the chain is tighter, torque the brake side to 45 NM, then the chain side to 45 NM. Make sure the brake ain't rubbin! Drink a beer...
For the chain, buy 2 m14 x 1.5 flange nuts, remove the old nuts and washers, hand tighten the flange nuts so the wheel can still move back, tighten the chain adjuster nuts until the chain is tighter, torque the brake side to 45 NM, then the chain side to 45 NM. Make sure the brake ain't rubbin! Drink a beer...
Rix
100 TW
Longshot, you are a genious
. The only way you could even be better would have been to drink 4 beers 8) .Paul_G
10 kW
snapperboy87 said:
Blow out the key switch with compressed air or jump it out for a test.
The stock switch craps out if even if you wash the bike.
If that didn't do the trick disconnect the CA and see if thats the issue....the bike will run fine without it.
remf
100 kW
snapperboy87 said:
Sounds like it's water in the small hall connector near the rear shock. Just disconnect, dry it out & reconnect.
Hyena
10 GW
My money is on the hall plug - if it was the key switch the CA shouldn't come on and in turn the bike wouldn't work at all.
There's about a 1 second delay from the time you turn the key until the CA "boots up" during which time you'll have no throttle. So if it was a wet key switch the CA could be turning on and off intermittently but not fast enough to cause jerking. That's a classic halls symptom.
There's about a 1 second delay from the time you turn the key until the CA "boots up" during which time you'll have no throttle. So if it was a wet key switch the CA could be turning on and off intermittently but not fast enough to cause jerking. That's a classic halls symptom.
Yep Hall plug. Exact same thing happened to me...which is why I started wrapping my Hall plug in tape, however I soon learnt that that just traps more water in...best bet is to just dry it after rain like others have said.
Cheers
Cheers
Rix
100 TW
I have had great luck with Boeshield T9. I sprayed that stuff on my vented stators, key hole, connectors, CA buttons, sensor connector. Doesn't rain very often and I don't ride in the rain if I can avoid it. We get the periodic flash flood dump and I haven't had any issues. For what its worth.
Lowbank, did you get your Vboxx sorted out? Was the problem identified? Gears chipped?
Rick
Lowbank, did you get your Vboxx sorted out? Was the problem identified? Gears chipped?
Rick
QMS
1 kW
Rix said:QMS, that is one very nice Quigly special army green bomber you have. Thats so pretty, I would have a hard time getting it dirty, at first. Kind of like a new car, you are afraid to park it in a public lot or store lot until the first scratch, then its no more of a concern.
Hey Rix
Yes it was hard getting it dirty the first time! But done nowNo major damage though, just a few chips
QMS
1 kW
morati said:
Hey Morati
There are no physical differences between the 2 models eg frame, suspension & drive train etc however the crystallite hub motors are definitely are a little torquier on the latest version. Top speed seems about the same around 80-85 kph. A couple of Bombers I have recently delivered (same as our new demo version) have much better off the mark performance eg wheelies are a lot easier on the latest versions. The new hubs have drain holes drilled in the side casings also. Our latest demo is using the version 3 CA software of which I am not all that familiar with yet but seems to have a lot more in built options than the old 2.3. The battery's that have been supplied on the latest Bombers (from approx October last year) are smaller physically and lighter than the previous version which also contribute to better performance. Overall we think it's about a 10% power/torque gain to the previous model, relative to rider weight, accessories etc.
QMS
Rix
100 TW
Tech question for everyone. Back from a ride, burned 1391 watts. Went to charge the battery, and the charger would shut off after a couple of seconds. Popped off the cover on the frame, and while I was checking the battery charge wires to make sure it was plugged in, the charger started charger. So I was wiggling the charging wires around and discoverd I had a short coming out of the frame mounted 3 prong plug, looks like the mircophone plugs on my dads Peavey Amplifiers. So as I am wiggling wires connected to the frame mounted plug, the charger kept going on and off. So I unscrewed the 2mm allen bolts, pulled the plug out of the frame, cut the heat shrink, and holy shit, the plastic connectors was melted. I think its a simple fix. I want to wire the connectors to the battery directly to the charger. Problem is, the charger wires are not colored red and black wires, it has blue and tanish almost yellowish wires. The tanish yellowish wire plug into the the #1 prong post, and the blue plugs into the #2 prong post. #3 doesn't have nothing. Does anybody know which wire between the blue and tanish/yellowish wire is positive. I have alot of my tools and stuff in a rent a storage and don't have access to my test light. What my intentions are is to just wire the plug connecor directly to the charger and charge that way. Got a friend coming in from Austalia and got to get this up and going by Wednesday morning for a ride in Yosemite. Any and all advise is appreciated.
Rick
Rick
Attachments
Kepler
10 MW
Blue is usually neg and brown is usually pos. You need to use a multimeter to confirm though. If you don't have one, go and buy one. It doesn't need to be an all singing all dancing Fluke. Just an entry level digital. I would look at one with a DC clamp too. very handy for calibrating shunts.
