Kingpan charger voltage adjustment

Hi,

I have a 48V LifePO4 charger that i want to adjust from 58.4V to 57.6V
Can anyone identify the correct trim pot to adjust please?
Also how can i check the voltage setting when the charger needs to be connected to a battery pack before it starts charging?




Thanks for your time,

It's the one in the corner, all by itself and kinda hard to see sometimes. Right next to where the output wire leaves the box.

Your pic shows other pots that adjust other things.

the voltage adjustment is by way of the trimpot at the top of the picture next to the 16pin IC with TL494 printed on it.

Hmm, I thought my ping chargers were kingpan type. Mine have the pot in a different spot.

Apologies for the wrong info.

not wrong. this model has the voltage adjustment pot in a different spot. you can tell it is for the voltage adjustment because it is connected to pin #2 on the TL494.

this is the 10A charger, and they are different. the smaller chargers have the trimpot in the corner next to the leds like you said.

Dang, you sure know the guts of these things well. I just assumed the 5 amp kingpan.

i have piles of them laying open here on the kitchen table so it is like cheating. except the bad side is they gotta be fixed yet.

You are both legends!
Now... how to set the voltage accurately without the charger connected to the pack?
Trial and error i guess. Hook it up turn it on and slowly adjust trim pot 'til it turns off at the required voltage.

Anyway... Thanks very much for your time

Make a screw driver out end of a small plastic art paint brush. On a small screwdriver put shrink tube almost to the tip and grind the tip of the screwdriver down first. Even homemade wooden screwdriver.

you really should adjust the charger while it is attached to the battery and is pushing some of the balancing current at the full charged voltage. but if you adjust it just a little bit above the the 58.4V level that will be good enuff. ping sets them to 60 but 59V is ok, 60V is ok too.

you know by now that there is no voltage on the output because of the relay. do you have the cover off now? does your charger have the thermistor daughterboard attached to the lid?

to measure the voltage in front of the relay in the back end you would put the black probe on the shunt, the wire that loops out of the pcb and says 'sensor'.

put the red probe on the wide silver trace running from the schottky diodes on the side over to the choke. that is the positive output of the charger and you can measure the final voltage there when the battery is not connected.

Thanks for the info.

I adjusted VR2 and noticed the amperage dropped.
The charger doesn't have a thermistor daughterboard attached.

Sorry, i don't understand why increasing the voltage will give me a cut off voltage of 57.6V (ping sets them to 60 but 59V is ok, 60V is ok too).

full charge is 58.4V. you need a little extra to force all the cells to fully charge and balance so setting it to 57V will cause it go out of balance.

i see that you are in ozzieland so it is set up for 240V and is not the kind with the thyristor daughter board.

What lifepo4 battery are you talking about link.

dnmun said:

not wrong. this model has the voltage adjustment pot in a different spot. you can tell it is for the voltage adjustment because it is connected to pin #2 on the TL494.

this is the 10A charger, and they are different. the smaller chargers have the trimpot in the corner next to the leds like you said.

Click to expand...

According to this schematic, it looks like voltage regulation trim pot is attached to PIN 1 of TL494:

http://www.avdweb.nl/Article_files/Solarbike/Images-battery-charger/EBike-LiFePO4-Lithium-Ion-36V-8A-battery-charger-with-TL494-circuit.png

Anyway it's a modded charger,

dnmun said:

put the red probe on the wide silver trace running from the schottky diodes on the side over to the choke. that is the positive output of the charger and you can measure the final voltage there when the battery is not connected.

Click to expand...

Could you please highlight the test point in this picture?
http://jumpjack.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/dsc_0255.jpg

Hello All, lets see if i can revive this post.

I have a Kingpan F87.6V/10A and I'm in need of lowering the end voltage a bit tool.. The charger is a bit different than what the previous pics show and I don't find the indicated IC either. I wonder if you can help me find the pot. This one has a daughter board and I suspect it's the W4011 in the pic, but really not sure.

Hope you can help me!

Thanks in advance!



Pic found here:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/luoocuszmi1idpj/2017-06-03 11.34.08.jpg?dl=0

Hello everyone,
Even though this thread does not exactly align with my issue I think it provides a good backdrop to what I am experiencing so I chose to bump it, rather than start my own thread.

I have a Kingpan KP600E-60L, 50v 10a charger that has begun to give me trouble. It is used to charge a 12s pack originally supplied as part of a "Kranked" kit. It uses some twist-lock connectors that are actually pretty slick. The battery and charger were given to me by a friend (and a member of ES). The battery is powering my "back up bike", a crappy Li300 e-bike that I bought for next to nothing on craigslist. I have not ridden it extensively (less than 100 miles) but I did loan the bike to a coworker for around 6 months. We had one instance similar to this situation early on but after that he rode it almost daily with no problems charging. Since my main bike is presently undergoing a major transformation, I borrowed back the backup bike a few weeks ago and was only able to charge it once before this behavior became more acute.

Most of the time, the relay will not close in and commence charging the battery once I connect it. With the charger plugged into the wall but not connected to a battery, it shows me a green LED 2 which appears to indicate that the charger believes that whatever battery it is connected to is fully charged (it is not actually connected to a battery and connecting the battery usually does not have any effect). There will be between -5 and -8vdc on the DC output terminations inside the charger in this state.

I dug into it this weekend and discovered that the negative lead had come unfastened from the battery end of the charge cable connector. I happily re-terminated it and plugged the charger back in but still no love. I have verified output voltage from the battery at various points along the cable and also verified continuity of the entire DC output cable. This morning I had a small breakthrough; at one point I was measuring continuity of the negative lead from the inner side of the battery's connector port all the way to the charger's board with everything connected and powered when the charger suddenly closed in and began charging.
Trouble is, that it will only charge for a few minutes before the relay begins to cycle off/on/off/on continuously. Sometimes I can powercycle the whole thing and get it to charge for a few more minutes, sometimes it will begin cycling straight away as soon as the battery is connected and yet other times it will simply do nothing when the battery is connected.

Here is a link to a photo album with some short videos that illustrate the behavior:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/NW6XKWQdkiaQ6iie9

Help! driving a car sucks!

Anyone know what happened to dnmun? Looks like he hasn’t posted since 2015. Bummer.

I’m thinking I should bypass the relay so that there is always voltage on the DC leads. The BMS will open up when the pack is charged...right?

dnmun said:

i have piles of them laying open here on the kitchen table so it is like cheating. except the bad side is they gotta be fixed yet.

Click to expand...

Then you guys should also be discussing how to turn the current down on these chargers to 6 or 8 amps to make them reliable. It doesn't get much more dangerous than an unreliable charger.