Allex
100 MW
benmxrider said:
Already discussed about it a few pages back.
Go back a few pages and read this:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=23996&start=4775#p782638
E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners
- Thread starter voicecoils
- Start date
Already discussed about it a few pages back.
Go back a few pages and read this:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=23996&start=4775#p782638
QMS
1 kW
Rix, dh-paule and nevermnd
Thanks for the kind comments, we try to make sure every bike that goes out performs and looks as good as possible
Dlogic
Your build looks awesome mate and at 8.7 Kw it would be a blast to ride :lol: (I too work with cardboard aided design CAD most of the time too
)
Thanks for the kind comments, we try to make sure every bike that goes out performs and looks as good as possible
Dlogic
Your build looks awesome mate and at 8.7 Kw it would be a blast to ride :lol: (I too work with cardboard aided design CAD most of the time too
)
Looking at the options, if we try to choose a HPC Wolverine that's as close as possible to the Bomber's performance, it turns out to cost $8699 US. Since the exchange rate is now about AU$1.00 : US$0.90, that makes it ~ AU$9670 anyway, which is almost the same as the Bomber at AU$9900. The Wolverine looks like it's just too much lighter and cheaper built to cost the same as a Bomber.
Rix
100 TW
Cowardlyduck said:Nope...it's both too far forward and too far behind. :lol:Brute said:
I won't go into the details, but for various reasons my number doesn't actually match up with my build date.
I will say this though...it's one of the first Fighters with the new style frames.
Cheers
I wouldn't have the slightest idea when yours was made. Knowing your close proximity to Stealth HQ before you moved to Canberra, you could have got a new model frame before it was even available. It funny because I guy just reported receiving his Bomber #283 I think it was with in the last two weeks. But Stealth is approaching the 400 Mark with the Bomber as of now.
Here is a pic of my kid wearing a helmet for the first time. He was mad. But he is used to it now.
Rick
Attachments
DunkenKBliths
1 kW
4Wude said:
Talk to Stealth for a thumb throttle..., I just got one and fitted it...as my wrist was killing me...and didn;t want to suffer from RSI as I use the bike every day (commute) - seat wise I use a touring seat...with gel inserts and springs underneath...its great !!!
remf
100 kW
There is another not so straightforward option for a thumb throttle, the AWI 5K Ohm. It's looks to be durable and has a soft spring tension. Only thing is wiring it up to work correctly, being a potentiometer type, the easiest method is to connect it to a fully wired up Cycle Analyst V3 like Jim's below.
http://www.electricscooterparts.com/throttles5kohm.html
http://www.fareinc.com/65/CAV3_install/content/IMG_2825_large.html
http://www.electricscooterparts.com/throttles5kohm.html
http://www.fareinc.com/65/CAV3_install/content/IMG_2825_large.html
remf
100 kW
veloman said:
With the CAV3 & the cable mod above...yes.
Athaneco
1 kW
Good day ,
I have a question :
I want to replace the 2 bent crank arms from my bomber. Is there an easy way to pull them out? I guess one needs an extractor bit. I dont have one, does anyone have the specs of the bit. And something else, since i ll be getting back home late at night and i would like to replace the cranks tonite to have the bomber ready (and i dont have the extractor bit), is there another less primitive way of removing the cranks other than hammering/screwdriving, etc
Thanks in advance
I have a question :
I want to replace the 2 bent crank arms from my bomber. Is there an easy way to pull them out? I guess one needs an extractor bit. I dont have one, does anyone have the specs of the bit. And something else, since i ll be getting back home late at night and i would like to replace the cranks tonite to have the bomber ready (and i dont have the extractor bit), is there another less primitive way of removing the cranks other than hammering/screwdriving, etc
Thanks in advance
Allex
100 MW
No need to hammer, check this instruction on how to:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pruRTLlFsiA&t=1m55s
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pruRTLlFsiA&t=1m55s
Rix
100 TW
Athaneco said:
Athaneco, just take an 8mm allen wrench and unscrew counter clock wise. The crank bolt will back out until it hits the crank cap cover, and then push the crank off the spindle. The crank cap bolt is a 10mm allen. Don touch that. Remember when putting the crank arms back on to grease up the spindles a little.
Rick
Cowardlyduck said:I spent the last 2 hours trawling through Hobby King and making internal battery compartment measurements of my Fighter to try and figure out what battery dimensions I could make work to get the most capacity.
I think I've finally cracked it!
According to my measurements (more accurate this time), it should be possible to construct 9 of these into a square if placing them long side to short side.
Cheers
CD
I'm looking into 18s or 20s in my Fighter but with different pack arrangement. What are the measurements for the fighter battery box?
Thanks
Casey
Athaneco
1 kW
Thank u , that was really easy.. I feel very stupid hammering a few cranks so far. It took less than 5 minutes.
Rix said:
Athaneco
1 kW
Hi Rick , i ve read on one of your previous post about heat toughening the cranks. Some good news are that the cranks i have received from stealth australia are tougher since hey have a bit more meat on them. Difference can be seen clearly on the back , when comparing the old and the new crank. If anyone does not know this i could try to take a photo of that and post it here. toughness not verified yet ,I havent crashed yet, i hope i dont.
Athaneco said:
If you search through my posts you'll see I didn't end up getting it to work like I thought. This is because Hobby Kings measurements are out by about 3-4mm. I ended up discovering I could stand them up and went with that config instead.wugambino said:
From what I can remember, the dimensions were 120mm x 120mm x 380mm to be able to fit a pack in relatively easily. The actual inside measurements are slightly more, but you want a bit of room for padding and so you can still manuver the battery into place.
All that being said...each of these frames are hand made, so they may have slightly different dimensions. Your best off measuring your own to be sure.
If I could do it again, I'd get packs that were a few mm smaller on each side so I could do the grid of 9. I think having 2 or 3 grids of 9 packs that snuggly fit the 120x120mm square dimensions is the easiest way to fit the most capacity in a Fighter. It does involve more wireing, but it also leaves the room above the packs available for that wiring to sit in.
Hope that helps.
Cheers
Rix
100 TW
[quoteHi Rick , i ve read on one of your previous post about heat toughening the cranks. Some good news are that the cranks i have received from stealth australia are tougher since hey have a bit more meat on them. Difference can be seen clearly on the back , when comparing the old and the new crank. If anyone does not know this i could try to take a photo of that and post it here. toughness not verified yet ,I havent crashed yet, i hope i dont.
][/quote]
Athens, I cryo treated my cranks through CryPro in Missouri. They dry quench the cranks down to -315F below zero. This is supposed to get the molecules to line up in a straght line and "stress releive the cranks. I haven't bent them since. Both the cranks that came with my Bomber and the ones I ordered from Stealth are the same dimensions everywhere. If you could take a pice of both cranks next to each other so I can see the difference.
Rick
][/quote]
Athens, I cryo treated my cranks through CryPro in Missouri. They dry quench the cranks down to -315F below zero. This is supposed to get the molecules to line up in a straght line and "stress releive the cranks. I haven't bent them since. Both the cranks that came with my Bomber and the ones I ordered from Stealth are the same dimensions everywhere. If you could take a pice of both cranks next to each other so I can see the difference.
Rick
Athaneco
1 kW
Rix said:
Athens, I cryo treated my cranks through CryPro in Missouri. They dry quench the cranks down to -315F below zero. This is supposed to get the molecules to line up in a straght line and "stress releive the cranks. I haven't bent them since. Both the cranks that came with my Bomber and the ones I ordered from Stealth are the same dimensions everywhere. If you could take a pice of both cranks next to each other so I can see the difference.
Rick[/quote]
The middle one is the old type crank.
Attachments
Rix
100 TW
Athens, I see what you mean, just a little more material around the spindle area. Thanks for posting the pic.
Rick
Rick
Hey guys,
I just picked up a used bomber in excellent condition :lol:
I have a budget of $4000 left to pimp out my Bomber! Obviously I will be replacing the front fork (probably with a fox 40).
Just wondering what else you guys would recommend doing or what I should change to see the biggest ride improvement?
(new wheels, rear shock, thumb throttle, cycle analyst, etc...)
I will mainly be using this as my daily commuter with maybe a little off-roading a few times a month.
Thanks for any suggestions you guys may have!
I just picked up a used bomber in excellent condition :lol:
I have a budget of $4000 left to pimp out my Bomber! Obviously I will be replacing the front fork (probably with a fox 40).
Just wondering what else you guys would recommend doing or what I should change to see the biggest ride improvement?
(new wheels, rear shock, thumb throttle, cycle analyst, etc...)
I will mainly be using this as my daily commuter with maybe a little off-roading a few times a month.
Thanks for any suggestions you guys may have!
Athaneco
1 kW
Rix said:
Yeah , they ve changed the mould a little. They will be harder to bend, a little only i guess. Anyway when i bend the cranks badly, pedals are trashed too, usually beyond repair. I ve even got the simano saint for nearly a hundred dollars a pair, known for their heavy dutiness, however those got thrashed too. The bomber is a motorcycle with pedals. At one point i though of getting really cheap plastic pedals that could just break off upon impact, but those could break at a drop off too, causing a bit of a ball breaking effect.
morati
10 kW
Yes definately a fork......maybe a set of Hope V4 brakes with V2 vented rotors. Thats about it to upgrade. Wheels might be needed if you are a heavier rider and you are offroading on rocky terrain, otherwise the stock wheels are fine. Stock up on tires of your choice, brake pads and an extra set of crank arms. One of the most important things is to read every page of this topic here on Endless-sphere. So much info to take in so a few pages at a time until you've covered everything. Welcome to the Club!Darrub said:
nevermnd
10 W
Got a flat today on the rear, it was leaking just slowly enough that I made it home.
About 200miles on the stock Razorback and its pretty worn - 30% single track 30% pavement 30% gravel .
There would be no way for me to take the rear wheel off in the field, the main axle that is part of the motor was sitting so tightly between swing arm cutouts that I had to hammer it out with a rubber mallet.
Also thanks to my two left hands, after I patched the hole in the tube, I managed to put 3 more while scooping the tire on the rim back on. Looks like I pinched the tube with the tire iron in 3 different places.
Went to my 2 local bike shops and they never heard of 24x3 tube ... go figure.
Is there a good online shop in the USA that sells the 24" Duro Razorback and some kind of heavy duty tubes for them?
About 200miles on the stock Razorback and its pretty worn - 30% single track 30% pavement 30% gravel .
There would be no way for me to take the rear wheel off in the field, the main axle that is part of the motor was sitting so tightly between swing arm cutouts that I had to hammer it out with a rubber mallet.
Also thanks to my two left hands, after I patched the hole in the tube, I managed to put 3 more while scooping the tire on the rim back on. Looks like I pinched the tube with the tire iron in 3 different places.
Went to my 2 local bike shops and they never heard of 24x3 tube ... go figure.
Is there a good online shop in the USA that sells the 24" Duro Razorback and some kind of heavy duty tubes for them?
Rix
100 TW
Nevermind, go to your local MC shop and ask them for this size MC Inner Tube "80/90-21" with the longest valve stem they carry. This tube will fit our 24MTB Razorbacks perfectly. The only bitch is the valve stem is a little on the short side for the Bomber's deep well rims. So when the valve stem is fished through the rim hole, make sure the nut that comes with these tubes is removed. Then use that nut and thread back on the stem. This will hold the valve stem in place so you can air up the tire. I run a super heavy duty Maxxis 80/90-21 MC Tube on the front of my Bomber, its at least twice as thick as the heaviest 24" DH MTB Tube made by Duro No problems or flats.
Rick
Rick
