Whats normal performance wise?

I tried a different throttle which has made no difference.

I measured the voltages on the throttle connector - red is 4.4V, white is 0.8V with the throttle closed, 3.65V with it open. Oddly enough, when I bridge the red & white wires as suggested, the motor does not run. When I did this I was bridging the wires on the controller connector block with the throttle disconnected, was that correct?

I fitted a speedometer to the rear wheel and was getting a no load speed of 299 rpm (high speed) and 248 (middle speed). The rpm under load on the flat is approx 250 rpm (high speed) and 190 rpm (middle speed).

I can't understand why it didn't work when you joined white to red throttle wires. Mine always do. The 299rpm with the boost on sounds about right, but it should then be able to maintain 270rpm on the road with reasonable power. 248 rpm is way too low.

One more thing to try. Switch off everything, disconnect the hall sensor connector and switch it back on (leaving halls disconnected) to run it sensorless. See if that makes a difference.

The other thought I had was that your motor is behaving exactly like the 350w version! It definitely has 500w written on it?

I've already tried running sensorless - the performance is the same.

The motor has 500W written on it, so I would hope it actually is! Could it be that I am just too heavy for it (18.5 st).

One other thing I've noticed is that the phase wires seem very small. The bullet connectors feel warm to the touch, is this normal?

merganser said:

I've already tried running sensorless - the performance is the same.

The motor has 500W written on it, so I would hope it actually is! Could it be that I am just too heavy for it (18.5 st).

One other thing I've noticed is that the phase wires seem very small. The bullet connectors feel warm to the touch, is this normal?

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I have two of these motors. I'm 100kg, and they have more than enough power for your 18st. The phase wires can carry enough power, but the bullet connectors at the controller can''t. They get hot, melt the plastic covers and can short out. I solder them because you have a connector at the motor end, so they're not needed.

I also had the 350w version, which was not only slower, but it was gutless by comparison with the 500w one. If yours can't climb a 15% hill without pedalling, then it might be a 350w one, but more likely something else is wrong, but I'm running out of ideas.

I'll try and find a suitable hill to test it on sometime this week. Like you I am pretty much out of ideas as everything seems to check out.

The only other thing I can think of is to build the 500W BPM I have in to a wheel and see how that goes - I take it the BPM & CST should have similar performance.

I tried climbing a 16% hill today, and the bike wouldn't do it without pedaling. With pedaling I was able to manage a fairly comfortable 8-10mph.

So maybe it is a 350W motor?

The code 11 500w BPM and the 500w CST have very similar performance, so try the BPM. If it has significantly more power, then there's something wrong with the CST. If it doesn't, there's somthing wrong with your controller, so you'd need a wattmeter to see what's going on. They're very cheap. This one is OK for diagnostics:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-60V-100A-Battery-Balance-LCD-Voltage-Power-Analyzer-Watt-Meter-New-/300931827656?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Test_Measurement_Equipment_ET&hash=item4610ef47c8