A2B Metro - www.ultramotor.com - Video Page4

Yeah like Lyen I've always heard his name and aware of the presence but never delved deeper =D

12.5Ah is handy in that spot.
I initially wondered but wasn't sure about the chemistry's voltage, maybe it was different, but that is 50V nominal 57.4V charge, is getting towards 20% over the controller electronics 50V voltage rating.
I don't know what tolerance they have, I was hoping 12S would be OK from Ypedal's experience.

Are you intending 14S on an aftermarket controller?
 
I'd make it my 4th if you weren't so far away ;)
I just took a picture part way through a house tidy up fitting 10 bikes in a small corner... back on a heavy pedal bike my legs are busy convincing me to move them all to get the A2B back out for recovery duty =P

PS: granted your projects page has seemed to grow exponentially since I last saw it =P
 
fechter said:
What's the most voltage anybody has tried with the stock controller?
In this thread Ypedal tried a boost to stock just shy of 50V.
 
Before I remove mine and replace it with an external controller, I'm tempted to find the limit (destructively) :twisted:
 
pretty sure I recall seeing 63v caps on that controller..... those go pop at what.. 65v or so ? :lol:


user Friedwires made an adult kick scoot from the motor with a lyen 12fet, pretty sure he's running 72v.... the motor is beefy enough to take a few kw easily .. the rpm/v is fairly high but 72v and 40 amps would be a reasonably reliable fun combo.
 
Ypedal said:
pretty sure I recall seeing 63v caps on that controller..... those go pop at what.. 65v or so ? :lol:

Most of it seems buried in potting. Most likely 60V FETs. The relay coils for the A/B switch are 24v, so might need a resistor there. I have a 16s A123 pack that's about 59v hot off the charger.
 
This spring I put two 10S RC Lipo stick packs inside my A2B Metro's down tube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l09qAkCI08E

I also put two sticks on top of the frame for 72V and a very centered mass. The bike goes 37mph (GPS verified) and handles great though I try not to park in front of any federal buildings since the external packs look a little suspect :shock:

I would say that my A2B Metro is one of my most favorite machines I've ever owned. Getting to ride it to work and back home twice a day is probably the best things about my work day. Riding a pedal bike is too dangerous for my commute and my office is too close for a car to warm up at all (120F coolant temp by the time I get to work). We have a Nissan Leaf but my partner drives it since she drives more than I do.

I paid $500 for the bike with a bad motor but two good battery packs. The motor wasn't bad but the wires had gotten wrapped around the axle when the PO ran over something in the road. I ripped out the controller and used an external Crystalite sensorless controller instead. I bought $500 worth of Zippy RC batts and then sold the two stock packs for $500. I did put some money in better, bigger BB7 brakes, a seat, racks, controller, mirrors, a good rear shock, lights, Cycle Analyst, etc. but it was money well spent. I can't imaging riding one stock. -Jim
 
Has anyone sourced replacement chargers? I've got a single standard 4 amp model.
Anyone use similar powered ones that aren't fan cooled? Handy for quiet charging at work.
The fan on mine is dying, so I'll try to replace that.
I've had a 2nd charger in the back of my mind for a while, but was considering the Lipo upgrade so delayed it, but I have 3 sets of stock frame batteries now to justify continuing to use them, so I'm being pushed to act =D
 
fechter said:
Does anybody know if there is a larger front chainring that can be used? I'd like to be able to pedal when going faster than 20mph. Ghost pedaling is fun, but doesn't help the Whr/mi.

Sorry, I don't recall the A2B chainring size or if they use a standard 104mm BCD crank. But if you measure it and it is, then yes, any 4 bolt 104mm chainring should bolt on.

I just ordered a custom chainring (52.9t which should basically be a 53t) for a different bike from this guy - Rennen Design Group. The reviews say they are a quality product and they are cheap too (comparatively).
 
this 50t allows for some effort @20~22mph
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=20991

ebkrsid.jpg

sprket.jpg


I need to rebuild my frame pack.....if anyone has seen a deal on some appropriate 18650 cells I'd appreciate a heads up


wj
 
Have any of you folks had any luck sourcing a replacement battery back for the frame battery? My Metro is 5 years old and the battery is jsut about done.

I could pay 600 for a new frame pack.. But my second battery also needs to be replaced... Think anyone would want to build a reverse engineered packs for a few folks?

Joe
 
Check your frame from underside and thoroughly cleaned before dropping big $$$ into new batteries.

My frame with cracks from the drain and cable holes finally let go, spread to swingarm weld and snapped the banana swinger like... A banana. Locked rear wheel on rear battery pack was good because it didn't have leverage to snap clean through, so no damage to the wiring.

I spoke to seller on eBay with frame for sale, no swinger, as it snapped at the dropouts.

When I got this 3rd frame/bike it was cheap and I had a feeling the decent size guy had carried people on the back at times.

I continued riding it regardless dropping off curbs (the final shock that snapped the swingarm) but it wasn't the big cracks I was monitoring that got me.

There are some odd cast lines in the fork that made me nervous, but same across 3 bikes so I was comfortable it was not a crack.

It is all repairable, but I have a preference for steel for future ;) I have one dead controller motor and one dead frame so still serviceable fleet for a while.
 
Joepah, if your frame is good, I think we could get a cell man (www.em3ev.com) to make custom packs for us with his new high quallity 10C cells! He will be more willing to do it if hes going to make 2+ of these packs, and also because its winter(hes not too busy).


With some modifications to the design:
-Making it 14s 5p (instead of 6p)
-Making it in 5 sections. Like 5 blocks of 14 cells each, and having, short, flexible leads connecting the blocks. (If that makes sense in light of battery layout design...?)
unnamed.jpg
 
deepfraught said:
Check your frame from underside and thoroughly cleaned before dropping big $$$ into new batteries.

My frame with cracks from the drain and cable holes finally let go, spread to swingarm weld and snapped the banana swinger like... A banana. Locked rear wheel on rear battery pack was good because it didn't have leverage to snap clean through, so no damage to the wiring.

I spoke to seller on eBay with frame for sale, no swinger, as it snapped at the dropouts.

When I got this 3rd frame/bike it was cheap and I had a feeling the decent size guy had carried people on the back at times.

I continued riding it regardless dropping off curbs (the final shock that snapped the swingarm) but it wasn't the big cracks I was monitoring that got me.

There are some odd cast lines in the fork that made me nervous, but same across 3 bikes so I was comfortable it was not a crack.

It is all repairable, but I have a preference for steel for future ;) I have one dead controller motor and one dead frame so still serviceable fleet for a while.

Thanks for the heads up, DeepFraught...I checked the drain hole and bulkhead fitting for the wiring and didn't notice any cracks... Unless the paint is removed you really can't tell unless its pretty bad :? My swingarm failed at the weld about 2 years ago, and it was replaced under warranty.. Since I probably have more miles on my Metro than most people, 8000 miles, I really don't know where the next failure will be... Been pretty good to me overall...
 
The Stig said:
Joepah, if your frame is good, I think we could get a cell man (http://www.em3ev.com) to make custom packs for us with his new high quallity 10C cells! He will be more willing to do it if hes going to make 2+ of these packs, and also because its winter(hes not too busy).


With some modifications to the design:
-Making it 14s 5p (instead of 6p)
-Making it in 5 sections. Like 5 blocks of 14 cells each, and having, short, flexible leads connecting the blocks. (If that makes sense in light of battery layout design...?)
unnamed.jpg

Great Stig.. I sent him an e mail about it this morning.. I have two packs to be replaced.

My only concern about upgrading the Ah is actually fitting inside the plastic case that houses the battery pack.. I don't know if your sketch dimensions are the internal dimensions of the frame or the plastic case..... And I don't know what the physical differenes are between the stock 2c batteries vs a 10c... I would prefer a cell that lasted longer than high performance, because the stock controller is pretty lame anyways... Would like to see if we could do better than 42v off the charger though... :)
 
joepah said:
The Stig said:
Joepah, if your frame is good, I think we could get a cell man (http://www.em3ev.com) to make custom packs for us with his new high quallity 10C cells! He will be more willing to do it if hes going to make 2+ of these packs, and also because its winter(hes not too busy).


With some modifications to the design:
-Making it 14s 5p (instead of 6p)
-Making it in 5 sections. Like 5 blocks of 14 cells each, and having, short, flexible leads connecting the blocks. (If that makes sense in light of battery layout design...?)
unnamed.jpg

Great Stig.. I sent him an e mail about it this morning.. I have two packs to be replaced.

My only concern about upgrading the Ah is actually fitting inside the plastic case that houses the battery pack.. I don't know if your sketch dimensions are the internal dimensions of the frame or the plastic case..... And I don't know what the physical differenes are between the stock 2c batteries vs a 10c... I would prefer a cell that lasted longer than high performance, because the stock controller is pretty lame anyways... Would like to see if we could do better than 42v off the charger though... :)
I took apart the plastic case and deemed not worth trying to reuse it. Don't remember why. 14s may be high for the stock controller, I might be up for 13s
 
[/quote]I took apart the plastic case and deemed not worth trying to reuse it. Don't remember why. 14s may be high for the stock controller, I might be up for 13s[/quote]

ARe you saying that the OEM case cannot be disassembled without destroying it? Guess the batteries could be assembled with the correct arc, enclosed in plastic, then mounted on a backbone like Edamame did.
 
No, as I said, I don't remember why. I think I didn't want to reuse it because I could fit a lot more cells in along side the new BMS. (Cell mans BMSs are great! so little battery drain.) The other reason was just to save alot of time and effort, cell man builds more-than-adequet protection onto his batteries. A strap around the end of the battery and running the entire length could be used to pull the battery out for future maintenance. This is good we should figure out all the details here before we send him more emails to save him time as well. I have a good bit of experience drawing up custom layouts for cell man to build... poor guy :p

Let me know when you figure out if the stock controller can take 14s Li-Ion. I think the answer is yes, and the information may be in this thread as I vaguely remember...
 
The Stig said:
No, as I said, I don't remember why. I think I didn't want to reuse it because I could fit a lot more cells in along side the new BMS. (Cell mans BMSs are great! so little battery drain.) The other reason was just to save alot of time and effort, cell man builds more-than-adequet protection onto his batteries. A strap around the end of the battery and running the entire length could be used to pull the battery out for future maintenance. This is good we should figure out all the details here before we send him more emails to save him time as well. I have a good bit of experience drawing up custom layouts for cell man to build... poor guy :p

Let me know when you figure out if the stock controller can take 14s Li-Ion. I think the answer is yes, and the information may be in this thread as I vaguely remember...

ok.. You know the only electric part that has been deadly reliable has been that frame pack... Every other electrical part has been replaced, and the motor 3x, all under warranty first two years.

Not sure how you would shove the batteries in what should be a tight fit inside the tube frame, without some sort of structure to protect the battery tab welds.

Now I have read every bit of owner mods on the A2B and I believe that 48 volts off the charger should work with the factory controller... so 12s should work nicely... would end up with less Ah, but I can live with that.
 
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