Last Day in Suzhou – Friday, September 26th
There are several mini-adventures to share on this trip, although the one that will stay with me as a favorite is my last full day before handing back to the States. Had the day off so I was footloose and free. Conspired with a couple of my new Chinese to go site seeing and they hatched a plan that took me to the
Taihu Lake Wetland Park. They were playing hooky, so let’s call them “
En” & “
Jay” so they remain
MiB cognito :wink:
#1 = Taihu Lake Wetland Park, and #3 is Shangri-La Hotel
The origin of the park is rather obvious, though the drive out to the park was even more revealing about the aggressive industry of commercial expansion. The Day begins when my pals pick me up at the hotel. If you review the map, from location #3 we lit out north to Taihu Ave – a freeway of sorts that if you were to draw with your finger the route west, the terrain becomes somewhat lush and hilly at the first green splotch (left of the words “Taihu Ave”) to “Xiyanshan”: This is a transition zone between drainage basins that at first appears as rocky outcrops to rolling hills before approaching the mountainous “Xiyanshan” section. We’re in the car so picture taking would be difficult. But as we went past the first hill cut, it was close enough to the road that you could see people scaling the face of the cut – like people rock-climbing at REI or Goat Rock or Half Dome or any number of places around the planet. And as I pointed this out, Jay said they were “
fake, dummies” – as in mannequins! That brought a laugh cos both En & I thought he was joking. :lol:
Jay drives us onward past Xiyanshan and on the backside – I kid you not – they are shaving the mountain side away in a massive mining operation. I asked Jay about this, the answer En interpreted as “they’re mining for dirt”. Indeed, the rolling hills suggested they were once ancient quarries for stone. In addition, like everywhere that I see as I venture beyond the 7-mile visibility limit is another sector of high-rise commercial construction including light manufacturing, big-named glamorous hotels, mega shopping complexes, and clusters of urban dwellings connecting (or in the process of being connected) by new light rail - most of which stand empty and awaiting clientele. This rapid break-neck growth goes on mile after mile from horizon to horizon in all directions as we travel west towards Dongbanlang and Zhenhuzhen -> the north entrance to Taihu Lake Wetland Park.
Once at the park, we get our tickets and head through the gate and tunnel through a wisteria-type overgrowth that was charming and invocative of nature taming our soul. On the other side we purchased tickets for the boat tour which takes a circuitous route around the lake – stopping at 4 touristy points along the way. You can get to each of these destinations by walking and they are connected by bridges, but the boat ride definitely speeds up sight-seeing.
Ahoy matey!
Beautiful bridge work! This route would eventually connect you to the panda palace.
Suzhou Pavilion on the lake.
The first place we stopped at was a tiny cluster of buildings celebrating the Suzhou Pavilion at the 2011? Shanghai Expo (forgive me – I don’t recall the precise details). As pavilions go, this one was well put together and I really enjoyed the creative displays of light and shadow to create delightful atmosphere of discovery and ancient history. Forget taking photos; it’s all projected and you simply have to see it to believe. There’s no fee, so you’re good to go and spend time enjoying the wonder.
Bill the Pony
Taking the trails here and there, we end up where there’s a horse tied off at a rail. I named him “Bill the Pony” who was owned by the Hobbits in Lord of the Rings. Bill looked so lonesome there all tied up. Bill paws at the ground. I ape in reaction and paw at the ground. Bill wobbles his head. I wobble my head and fake neighing – which has En & Jay laughing – though now I have Bill’s undivided attention. I told Bill I wished I had an apple to feed him. Then a caretaker approaches and asks if I want to ride him. Obviously the only task Bill has in Life - other than stand around - is to give kiddie rides over a short loop. Off in the distance I see Bill has other buddies. We decline the caretakers offer. It’s a sad life for Bill, though I’m certain he’d like an apple.
Lonesome Bill
Back to the boat for another leg – this time to the Panda compound. As we leave the boat passes within sight of Bill so I wave and say good bye to him; he wobbled his head in acknowledgement (or so I’d like to believe).
It is here that I begin to understand the origin of this place: They mined it for dirt! They mined it on such a broad scale that you can probably see it from low Earth orbit. When they took all the dirt they could, the land was flooded and turned into a “wetland reclamation and restoration project”, and oh – let’s throw in some tourist attractions and mine the pockets of visitors. I don’t mean to cheapen the efforts here – but let’s call the kettle black. Nearly every tree here is a transplant. I saw firsthand rows of large 30-40 foot tall trees limbed and bound for placement; they have such a tiny root ball that they need structural support until they literally get their footing establish. Regardless of the origin, it is an epic enterprise taken with serious reverence – and there is no shortage of cut stone pavers lining the paths and well-constructed wood and stone bridges. Give it 30 years and you might not be able to tell its’ man-made. Let’s continue on…
Happy little boat upon the water...
We took the boat to the second destination which is also the East Gate Entrance. Ambled around the dock and headed off through a lushly-planted garden towards the Panda area.
Looks impressive! Where's the critters?
The pandas were not there. We walked around to the backside and behind the floor to ceiling glass walls were two pandas attempting to get some shuteye inside the shelter during the midday heat. The ass-end of a panda is not much to look at so I didn’t bother to pester them for a better shot. I mean, how would you feel if you were taking a siesta and some voyeur came tapping at your window expecting you to smile and eat bamboo? Geez no wonder they have trouble mating. We head back towards the boat launch and I captured this pict of a Chinese Junk awaiting restoration. Then Jay gets a cryptic call from work and tells En that they have to go back. The tone of our adventure sours a bit. I think I might have got them into trouble.
Some repair required. Can't wait to see it sail!
Remember that little man from Fantasy Island? “Da boat, da boat!”
Long moments of Silence. The boat arrives without ceremony and we pile in. Jay tells the Captain of our scupper to just keep going and not stop at the 3rd dock. We have to go. On the way back I notice there are no beaches, no tidal action except for the wake the boat makes whilst gliding by. An idea forms and I cut through the solitude with levity and explain how they could really liven the place up with a few crocodiles laying wait and ambush boats as they go by! Maybe add some piranha to keep hands out of the water? Or perhaps a piranha-feeding station… throw in the old goat (as in your boss), watch the water churn, yeah that would work! And the guys loosen up… the small parade of banter and camaraderie returns as spirits lift from gray fog.
Looks like a good place to ditch a body, er... feed the fish. Imagine if they added some crocs, you know - liven the action it up a bit
Of course I think it completely helped that we became lost at the last stop and were forced to hike our way out. That was fun for me in my all-weather Seattle F.O. boots – but the guys who were in office shoes… maybe not. Back at the car, off we go towards town. It takes a good half hour before we pass that same spot with the rock-scaling peoples, and sure enough… they are mannequins! Oh too funny: There’s one at the bottom holding a rope, one at the top with his hands on his waist looking down, four in scaling repose – and not favoring well considering the heat, humidity, and adverse weather tearing at their clothing! Next time – I promise we’ll stop and I’ll get some photos.
The last bridge is beautifully cut from stone.
Back at the hotel, they dropped me off, handshakes, then tear-arse they went back to work on a Friday at 3 PM. No rest for the weary.
Great time though; wouldn’t trade it for the world! 8)
Y’all want more?
KF