Re-volting the eZips ... Simple Mods!

DrkAngel

1 GW
Joined
Dec 15, 2010
Messages
5,300
Location
Upstate-Western-Southern Tier NY. USA
The eZip Trailz is the "budget " eBike.
Annual-occasional sales drop the price into the mid $300 range, (~$350) See - Continuous price tracking
OEM battery pack is a 24V 10Ah SLA ... providing limited range and durability.
450w motor is a proven durable component, underutilized, in my opinion.

Top speed is typically in the 15-16mph range ...
Sadly, inadequate for me, not even attaining the "legal" (USA) 20mph limit.

My first mod was upgrading to 36V with 10Ah SLA.
2008 OEM controller provided 24-36V compatibility.
This provided a 50% speed and torque increase ... now were talkin'!
Problem was that WOT was liable to "burn up" the motor.
Many predecessors told sad tails of "smoke n burn".
Rather than going the extreme of cooling mods, drillings, fans etc., I tended towards manual moderation.
Avoiding WOT, especially at low rpms, where efficiency is minimal and waste heat can run rampant!
Simply pedal assisting getting up to efficient speed and reducing throttle when efficiency is suffering.
2008 eZip Mountain Trailz @ ~4000 37V Li-ion miles!
When I built recycled laptop batteries into Li-ion battery packs their limited output, almost automatically, limited-moderated the damaging high amp drains.

After mid 2008-2009 the eZips controller was "upgraded" to a HVC that no longer allowed 36V battery use.
After a bit of trial and error I began building 25.9V Li-ion batteries that were compatible.
The ~8% voltage increase produced a noticeable improvement in speed and power, over the oem 24V SLA.
Speed was still "lacking" so I delved into multiple re-gearing projects, settling on 2 mods that allowed 20 mph capability. See - Re-gearing the eZips- Simple Mods!
Yes ... I "experimented" with higher speeds.

Initially I limited myself to the oem controllers.
I did "pump up" one of my eZips to 36V using an eZip scooter 36V controller ... only 25A, so the possible heat damage was moderated.

Unfortunately, most easily available controllers are designed for SLA batteries, in my opinion, the LVC is too low for Li-ions of the same rated Volts.
But, a 36V SLA controller works nicely with a 33.3V Li-ion, similar with 48V SLA controller for 44.4V Li-ion etc.

Sadly, one of my latest prototypes has no "compatible" controller and is even difficult to find a dedicated charger for.
In the eZip OEM battery case, I can shoehorn in 31.2Ah of 29.6V cells.
This should give me a robust ~20mph, voltage pumped up and no need for a torque reducing re-gearing.
(~24% torque increase, without the 20% torque reduction from re-gearing = nearly a 150% torque output , over 25.9V + 16T mod!)
Operating range does not fall nicely into the operating voltage of any controller, that I have found.
I have found multi-compatible controllers, 20V -72V compatible at 25A continuous an 30A cut-off. See -
Charging-balancing seems designed for the iMax B8, though at a 3A recommended charge rate, seem painfully inadequate as a primary charge method. 33.6V peak charge seems better supplied by a S-350-36V Meanwell with 10A output. (I tend to limit recycled Li-ion charging to <.5C - typical laptop charging rate. )

I normally Bulk charge, with the occasional "balance"

I made myself a chart showing the relative peak motor output from various voltage inputs.
3rd column is the Li-ion packs that I have tried, in eZip oem cases.

eZip-iZip-Currie 450w external gear motor (MY1018Z and XYD-16)
22.2V = 415w - 6s16p
24.0V = 450w - 2-12V SLA Comparison
25.9V = 485w -7s12p
29.6V = 555w - 8s12p
33.3V = 625w - 9s
36.0V = 675w - 3 - 12V SLA - Toolbox Pack
37.0V = 695w - 10s8p
40.7V = 765w - 11s
44.4V = 832w - 12s8p
48.0V = 900w -
48.1V = 900w - 13s
51.8V = 970w - 14s
55.5V = 1040w - 15s

See - Homemade Battery Packs - Index

Also - eZip-iZip-Currie Re-gearing Mods
 
A graphical comparison of the torque and speed available with voltage upgrades.
Also, to make it more ... informative, a comparison with the 16T mod, added for each voltage upgrade.

Note - Speed-Torque lines are for gearing ratio comparisons and do not represent "torque curves".
Currie (MY1018Z) 24v - 29.6v - 36v - 44.4v +w16Tmods.JPG
Interesting ... chosen voltages seem to be nicely graduated steps, more-so than I had intended.
Missing is my proposed, but never realized 33.3V build.

Most notably missing is the 25.9V upgrade.
Mostly because there is no "mod", simply swap in the 25.9V battery, it's worked with every 24V controller I've every run into.
 
I made up a better graph that approximates eZip speed at various Lithium voltages.

Note - Speed-Torque lines are for gearing ratio comparisons and do not represent "torque curves".
s7-s13 Lipo.jpg
Most importantly, the" Terminal Resistance" line has been figured more precisely and a line of approximated Racing Bike w/tuck has been added.
 
Added Terminal Velocity line for Full Recumbent.

Note - Speed-Torque lines are for gearing ratio comparisons and do not represent "torque curves".

Interesting to notice, beyond speed capabilities, is the comparative energy required from various bicycle types.
For example, the difference in lines at 30mph indicates that the Mountain Bike requires 200% the energy as the Full Recumbent.
"Torque %" translates reasonable well to foot-pounds of force for attaining noted speeds.
 
DrkAngel - I enjoy your ezip posts. I wanted a mid drive kit so I could tinker with gear ratios but some unexpected expenses dictated that I get a used ezip kit.
It is very flat where I live, so I will be doing the re-gearing soon. I may experiment with different batteries and controllers when the stock battery pack dies. To commute to work, I have to do a lot of stealth sidewalking so increasing speed may not benefit me that much.
 
DrkAngel- What would be a good controller for the ezip using this Ping LiFePo battery pack 24v 10ah?
What should the low cut off voltage be for 24v LiFePo?
http://www.pingbattery.com/servlet/the-24V-LiFePO4-Battery-Packs/Categories
2410v25.jpg
 
wheelbender6 said:
DrkAngel- What would be a good controller for the ezip using this Ping LiFePo battery pack 24v 10ah?
What should the low cut off voltage be for 24v LiFePo?
http://www.pingbattery.com/servlet/the-24V-LiFePO4-Battery-Packs/Categories
2410v25.jpg
I am not extremely familiar with LiFePO4.
The high charge voltage and lower discharge voltages combined with the flat discharge profile are confusing.
Optimal voltages seem more difficult to determine!

According to my understanding ...
LiFePO4 is much more resilient to high and low voltages.
OEM eZip controller has a ~20-21V LVC and should be fine.
 
DrkAngel, thanks for all your research on these motors/bikes and testing on what they are capable of. I know they are low tech and kind of noisy, but they are also a cheap way to get into ebikes. It's good to hear that they can be built into a competent and reliable bike for not too much extra money. I also have a 24v ping pack I plan to put into the one I recently got. LVC on the ping bms is 21-22v so just right for the controller. I am wondering, though, if you think the controller in mine may still be upgradeable down the road to 36v. Mine is an IZIP from early 2008 and controller has a cast aluminum case (24v/35a). If I try it at 36v will it ruin it or just not work? For now I think I will start by just getting it on the road and then try a re-gearing mod. I am only looking for a pedal assist bike, and if this works well, the long range plan would be have some assist up to 30mph. Right now it would be nice to just get back into biking.
Also, can anyone give me any advice on greasing the gearbox. Is there anything special I should be aware of? How often should it be done. I'm sure this one has never been done but I doubt the bike has more than 100 miles on it.
 
50 - 50 chance on 36V working.
Trying 36V battery has never hurt any of the ... dozen eZips I've tested.
TNCscooters.com has an eZip scooter controller that uses same connectors, except throttle.
About $50-60 for a 36V controller and matched throttle that are plug-n-play.
You will lose PAS button, but 2008 version was crappy anyhow!

Tests show 44V as minimum for pushing eZip motor to 30mph. (48V controller required.)

See - Re-gearing the eZips
And
Efficiency?
 
Thanks for the quick response and the links. I'll read through them. I thought I read in one of your posts that you were able to get some pedal assist up to 30 mph using 36 volts and the re-gearing mods, or did I read that wrong? How often do you grease the gearbox, or is it required?
 
Epoch and Long Yih "DNP" 7spd freewheels, with 11T, allow 30mph pedal assist to near 30mph @ 90rpm pedal rate, also provides 20mph assist with "casual" 60rpm rate.

I grease the motors gear reduction every ~1000 miles.
Working axle bearing grease into the teeth of both gears and adding a small "gob" at the meshing point, do not "fill" the compartment.

To note:
Be patient and careful, it is easy to break the gasket.
Do not get grease on gasket, it will slip and slide, and be very difficult to properly position.
Don't misplace the metal "washer" next to bearing.

1st post of "Homemade Battery Packs" has been tasked as an Index of that thread, as well as a listing of "More DrkAngel Threads".
 
Thanks again, I hadn't looked at the battery thread yet so I missed all your other threads. I have a DNP freewheel that was waiting for the right bike so I've mounted it up. The 30mph Is a long range goal anyway as right now my body is probably in worse shape than the bike. Looking forward to getting both working better.
 
Found a 24-36V capable controller for about $12. See - eZip Parts-n-Such

Built 25.9V and 33.3V batteries in eZip battery cases. See - Homemade Battery Packs
With the 25.9V and 16T mod, motor only is 21mph+ with some assist till 25mph.
33.3V. motor only, pushes me to 25mph+ but supplies some assist to 32mph!
With the epoch 11T rear cog, 100rpm should let me hit 30mph for brief spurts!
Now, just got to move pack switch further forward so, while carrying both voltage packs, I can reach down and switch to 33.3V Turbo!
 
Did you need a new throttle with that controller?
Does it fit inside the rear rack like the old controller?
Can you give the part number? It is hard to tell which one you got as the link goes to a whole list on ebay.

Thanks!
 
ecycler said:
Did you need a new throttle with that controller? - No, oem works fine. Battery level leds not accurate with >24V
Does it fit inside the rear rack like the old controller? - Same size as oem.
Can you give the part number? It is hard to tell which one you got as the link goes to a whole list on ebay. - YIYUN YK31C 24V (read labels on item picture if not in specs.)

Thanks!
Note! Requires most connectors adapted!
 
Multi voltage throttle with 12-99V LED readout!
+ keylock (if controller supports) - $12

Especially useful with my multi-voltage capable eBikes.
25.9V or 33.3V
25.9V switched to 25.9V + 11.1V = 37V
etc.

Use "static" (throttle released) voltage to estimate battery level.
Much better than LEDs!
 
I just bought 4 ezip bikes! for $300
Only one has a working lead acid battery pack, but its so heavy, gonna get some 36v batteries from www.jag35.com
I got 2 red aluminum step through bikes like the one in video below:
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=goJtu6d3mY0[/youtube]
They are pretty nice, not too heavy and suspension seat post to keep my butt comfy.

My goal is to have them go 20mph to 25mph, Charlotte, NC is pretty flat so I'm not worried too much about burning up the motor climbing hills.

the other 2 are steel frames, a Mongoose brand with vertical My1018 motor mount and vertical battery behind seat post and
an Ezip brand that is a "mens" frame. both of these are heavy as heck, probabaly 45 lbs without batteries. I think I will just sell these 2.

I need to get new controllers because I opened up the ones I have and found 35v caps.
What controller is currently recommended. The ones from china are $13 to $26
https://www.aliexpress.com/af/ebike-controller-brushed.html?trafficChannel=af&d=y&CatId=0&SearchText=ebike+controller+brushed&ltype=affiliate&SortType=price_asc&minPrice=4&maxPrice=20&page=1&groupsort=1

also what is a good temperature probe I can stick on the motor to monitor it's temp and at what temp should I let the motor cool down?
 
Did you check the "eZip re-gearing mods" in post #1?
2 different, less than $20 mods, can get you to 20mph.

Did you check the "homemade battery packs"?
7s 32Ah lithium fits in oem case for 600% range at ½ the weight? Works with all "24V" oem controllers.

At least check out my Battery Build Round-up includes, possibly, a dozen of my eZip battery builds.

Post #1 end of "index" contains a preserved wealth of eZip knowledge!
 
thanks I've ordered the 13t motor gears off ebay. I'll test those out and see how it goes.
with cheap battery sources like www.jag35.com and www.batteryhookup.com I'm too lazy to build a battery pack. I'll just buy a used one for cheap and add a bms if needed I can solder a dozen leads, but tabbing/soldering up a bunch of 18650's is not my thing. . I dont' care if the battery fits in the original plastic side boxes either. I can just strap it to the top of the rear rack.

I did check out a lot of your posts. Thanks for documenting so much stuff! I'll probabaly try 36v battery and see how hot the motor gets as well. Just need to find a temperature sensor to monitor the heat. I might weld on some aluminum heat sinks to the case.

I wonder if ferrofluid would also help keep the motor cool without having to drill a ton of holes in it? I did notice there was some deep crevices in bottom of motor might fill those in with some aluminum bar so less ferro fluid is needed. I'm guessing a bead of silicone would also be needed to keep it from leaking out.
 
added diy heat sinks to my wheels using 1x.5" aluminum tube pretty easy hardest part was tightening the machine screws once on. waiting on statoraide and will inject and see how it cools the motor. I will add some jb weld on the bottom part of motor to fill in the gaps so I will not need to use as much statoraide. EDITED TO ADD. READ ON GRIN'S WEBSITE STATORAIDE DOES NOT WORK FOR GEARED MOTORS ONLY MOTORS WITH magnets on the rotor side. oh well.
 

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