emaayan said:
is it repairable, how can i know for sure? where can i get new halls? will this do? http://www.ebike.ca/store/photos/HallSensor.jpg
i've run the motor for weeks, and the combo i used does not use over to 2 amps in no load, so it can't be that. right?
I just did a Halls replacement. Don't know if that is your problem, but there is a good troubleshooting guide for Halls at:
http://www.ebikes.ca/troubleshooting.shtml
It should isolate the Halls as the problem or not. If the Halls are the problem, replacement is a bit tedious for folks who don't do it all the time, but I managed. You'll have to take the motor apart more than likely. That is the right sensor, but you can usually get it locally. User dnmum helped me a lot. The part you want is a Honeywell SS41. I have some that I could send you if you can't find them locally. ebike.ca has them as your picture indicates but shipping will make this expensive.
Here is a tip for replacment; when I removed my old Halls, there were pieces of very small plastic tubing on each the legs of the SS41 that insulated them electrically from the windings. The plastic is thermally resistant so soldering does not melt it. Save those from the old ones, if they have it, and put it on the new ones. Otherwise, you'll have to find something else.
I don't know why the motor got so hot. Perhaps something caused that and the heat messed up the Halls. They are pretty temperature sensitive. Heat is what ruined mine. However, if there is a another reason why the motor ran hot unexpectedly, you might just ruin the new ones unless that is fixed.
EDIT: If the Halls are in fact bad, you will definitely have to take the motor apart. However, if they test bad, there could be a problem with the wiring to the Halls or on some motors, there is a small PC inside the motor that connects to the Halls that could have a problem. What I meant by the above is that if the Halls check as bad at the motor connection, it might be either an internal wiring problem or the actual Halls. In either case, you will have to take the motor apart to continue troubleshooting. If the Halls and windings check out as OK, then there is nothing electrically wrong with the motor.