On the 20k setting on the multimeter the ground trimpot reads 1.29, the blue 1.19 and the throttle brown ( wiper) and blue is 2.96 when throttle is closed and zero when throttle is full open, I dont understand the relationship between these.teklektik said:
Thanks. I was looking to get a feel for the actual trimpot values and the effect of clocking the gears. Here's what we have:Denisesewa said:
So I did some testing with the magura and have determined that the controller needs 1.25 volts to make the motor start turning and above 4 volts the controller must be going into an overvoltage safety mode which shuts things down, of course I can get reach these numbers using resistors BUT the controller also needs to see about 1 volt at closed throttle to activate, this leaves .20 to .25 volts of dead space inherent in the controller. I think I'll hook up the second stock controller which does not have a modified shunt and see if there is any differance although I cant see how the shunt would have anything to do with this, kinda hoping I just have a bad controller.teklektik said:
spinningmagnets said:skyungjae has found a freewheel adapter for the GNG jackshaft (It has an 11mm diameter tip with a key). The stock jackshaft freewheel is weak and hard to find, and this $43 adapter allows the use of an off-the-shelf robust 30mm X 1.0 BMX freewheel. It changes the tooth-count from 12T to 13T, so thats slightly worse, but the BMX freewheels can take a pounding while also being easy and cheap to replace.
the 12T FW has shallow pawl engagement to allow the lowest possible tooth-count (an uses an odd thread for mounting), but a 12T is weak and sometimes hard to find when your 12T breaks. 13T FWs are common, robust and affordable.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Freewheel-A...ilar-electric-motors-BikeMotive-/321024772949
Denisesewa said:This is how I did my primary chain conversion using these parts >>the parts are from TNCscooters.com , # spk-103240 for the 65 tooth , #spk-106012 for the drive sprocket , and 2 ft of # chn-105250 chain , you will have to find another supplier for a #25 halflink , I used the original large belt pulley and trimmed the outer edge off , I then made a bushing to help center the sprocket on the pulley and kept adjust it untill I had virtualy no runout,
once I was satisfied I hotmelt glued the sprocket to the pully to keep it in place and then drilled and bolted the sprocket on,
I remover the outer " washer" from the motor drive pulley simply by bending it off with pliers and used a new file with the motor turning at a relativly slow speed to turn down the pulley to 10mm, by going slow and checking my work often I ended up with a nice snug fit for the new sprocket and again zero runout, as the shaft gets smaller material is removed very fast so check often. this took less than two hours of careful work.
CLICK ON THE IMAGES FOR VIDEO
The drive sprocket had to be tapped for set screws and two flats were filed on the shaft for the setscrews to bite against once I had correct chain alignment. To have minimal slack in the chain I used a half link instead of a master link.
The result is a smooth running primary drive.
the tensioner was made from an old dirt bike chain roller cut down ,the spring from the original secondary drive tensioner which isnt needed there and scraps of aluminum.
So far under hard use this has held up perfectly and is almost as quiet as the belt with the added bonus of eliminating the huge power consumption of the belt system, with " Lighningrod's adjustable sheets I hoping to do away with the tensioner and save even more power from being wasted.
The primary side only changes motor rpm, to change cadence ratio you need to change the chainring ratio ( differance between the tooth count on inside and outside chainrings), there are several people who have done this although I dont know where those threads are discussed other than the main GNG topic.Whiplash said:
