My Electra Cruiser project

Can a Ezee motor do that?

I haven't had the pleasure of running the BMC or the eZee, I'm basing that statement on the wider stators ability to provide more power (BPM 17mm vs MAC 22mm). As far as heat survivability, all geared hubs have a poor heat-shedding path, the wider stator-steel, aluminum core, copper mass can absorb spikes better, but of course, once all of the hubs mentioned get hot...they take a long time to cool off (BPM vs BMC/eZee/MAC).

The BPM has thin 16-ga phase wires, but I found that they are easy to double the existing stock wires, which equals the copper cross-section of 12-ga http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=51237#p758156

40A is impressive, but for how long? If you find a really long and steep uphill, I suspect a max 40A would not last, but that's just a guess.

"MAC vs BPM for a mid-drive"
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=51313
 
Hi, Nonlineartoms bike looks VERY NICE! Hoping mine comes out as well. I haven't pulled the trigger on the order yet. That $ number was just going through the paces to see what my total will be. I will be making the commitment tonight or tommorow. I will let you know what the total finally came to. The owner of BMebikes.com is a really helpful guy and even though I didn't buy his Banfang kit he said he would help me put the bike together. I plan to get one of his ready made bikes for my wife in the near future. He has some very nice builds at a very good price. He is new in business and just putting together his website. I really like to see people trying to make a new ebike start up business. Hoping he succeeds.
 
There's a 15mph limit here (UK) so the switch is handy for when that limit needs to be adhered to.
I've not heard of this happening, but a bike can be seized to check compatibility with legal limitations so it's probably better to have your country limit as the default speed, and hide the switch or make it not obvious if you usually/often/ever ignore your countries laws.
 
Hi, ordered the upgraded kit. including torque arm, 25amp controller, Total including shipping and paypal fee was $566.16. Can't wait for it to arrive so I can play with it. I will post some pic once finished the build.
 
d8veh said:
All motors are good. You just have to find the one that suits your. IMHO,the MAC is rather basic and old-fashioned, though strong and reliable. There's much better motors now, but it's not possible to recommend one without knowing what you're trying to achieve. Bafang make about 20 different hub-motors. Do you know exactly which one you tried?

What'a better than mac for high power geared set up? Biggest behind than is the bpm and is clearly not as strong as the mac
 
cwah said:
d8veh said:
All motors are good. You just have to find the one that suits your. IMHO,the MAC is rather basic and old-fashioned, though strong and reliable. There's much better motors now, but it's not possible to recommend one without knowing what you're trying to achieve. Bafang make about 20 different hub-motors. Do you know exactly which one you tried?

What'a better than mac for high power geared set up? Biggest behind than is the bpm and is clearly not as strong as the mac
I don't think that the BPM is that far behind the MAC. For speeds up to 25MPH it's pretty good. The 500W Bafang CST is my favourite. I run mine at 30 amps and 36v, which it accepts without complaint. I also have the Xofo copy, that didn't complain with 64v and 30 amps. A friend uses that motor in his 75kg pedicabs with a 2:1 reduction ratio. It'll pull them up medium hills fully loaded without pedalling.
 
What number of winds (code) did you get for your CST Dave? Also, what do you think the standard phase wires are that came with the CST, and did you do an upgrade? And,, what type of connectors are you using for the motor/controller/ batts?
 
Herrsprocket said:
What number of winds (code) did you get for your CST Dave? Also, what do you think the standard phase wires are that came with the CST, and did you do an upgrade? And,, what type of connectors are you using for the motor/controller/ batts?
There's only one version of the 500W one AFAIK: 270 rpm at 36V. The 350w one is slower and doesn't respond to high current. They all have those thin-looking phase wires, which are fine up to 30 amps, but the plastic covers on the bullet connectors will melt, so best to cut them off and solder the wires. I always use Deans connectors on the battery, which are also fine up to 30 amps.
 
Hi, its been awhile since my last post. I received my Mac kit from Em3ev in China. Must say I was bit over my head with this conversion. There was no instructions at all for the build. The first bike I put together was a front hub motor kit from Ampedbikes.com. They included step by step instructions for a lay person. Anyway after realizing I was over my head. I found Tim. He own BMBikes. He is making some awesome electric bikes and selling them out of his shop in Northridge CA. He put the bike together for me and I couldn't be more pleased. With the Mac 10t motor I am smiling like a mental patient every ride. Very torquey and great on hills and straightaway. Will be interesting to see how much mileage I can get out of a charge. Will keep you informed. Thanks to all you members for your input directing me for the right combination to order from Paul at Em3Ev.com.
 

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Hi guys, 9 months ago I installed a mac motor with controller on my electra cruiser. It has worked flawlessly for the past nine months. The last 2 times I took her out with a completely charged battery it failed me when I used the thumb throttle. It felt like a gas engine would feel if not getting enough gas. I checked the battery and it is NOT the problem. Both times this has happened it has righted itself. I now don't feel confident to take it on longer trips. Any input on what could be wrong would be appreciated. E-mail me at Psychonurse91325@yahoo.com. All the connection look clean.
 
psychonurse said:
The last 2 times I took her out with a completely charged battery it failed me when I used the thumb throttle.

Does this mean you also run it in pedal-assist mode?

-R
psychonurse said:
All the connection look clean.

Really, really look at them. Give the individual wires a "tug test". Wiggle them with the motor running.

I had a premade controller cable where one pin was barely crimped on the wire and it caused a similar problem. Just today my bike cut-out for the first time in years...an Anderson connector in the power lead was melted slightly.

-R
 
Based on what you are saying, in my opinion it is either the battery or the controller box.

If you say the battery is fine, then most likely you just need to swap out the controller box and install a new one. Sometimes controllers go bad.
 
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