E-max 110s lifepo4 upgrade

it's a very expensive piece of equipment, that's why most of us don't use sevcon. Your best hopes are with a Vectrix or e-max dealer, whereabouts are you?
 
Netherlands, Zoetermeer.

So, a programmer is "all" i need?

At work, we have a company that services our pallet trucks, and they use Sevcon. I KNOW he has a programmer, as he can adjust speed, current, ramp, braking, etcetera.
So the main question would be: Does it need specific software?
Or can we hook up the programmer, and just program it?
I figure, we kneed to know exactly what id's and bus numbers there have to be programmed? Everything is connected, brake lights, signal lights, speedo, etcetera.
How does this work?
I am promised to get the correct software from someone.. Just don't have the equipment to program it...
 
I have a programming tool, bought it from a chap who used to work for vectrix in the UK. Also as an aside I am a programmer but the two things are unrelated. Anyway one of these days ill work out a way to create a programmer from a cheap arduino by capturing code from this programming tool I've got.
 
I live near Manchester in the UK. I have not yet programmed my two controller from vectrix / emax / proud eagle types. I guess you would have to send me your controller but before you do I had better learn how to do it and work out a cost of sending.
 
I want to replace the oil in my forks, does anyone know how much is needed in each fork?
 
Drain it into a measuring cylinder and there's your answer... :?
 
Wally,
I meant the Sevcon gen4 controller. As far as i know, the proud eagle is the earlyer controller?
Can we work out a way to get my vectrix up and running again?
I do have a usb-to-can converter, but never used it yet. (i got it with my MOTEC car ECU, its a motec piece of equipment, and i figure its a universal CAN programmer...)
 
No experience/ tools to mend/reprogram sevcons I guessing someone else on here has. I'd personally search for threads with your fave search engine and if none are found make a shout for help specific to the sevcon .
 
on my E-max I changed fro Lead acid to 16 prismatic GBS 100Ah cell , they fit perfectly in the front part of the battery space
 
Hi Athlon,

Is that running at 48V with the original controller and what range do you get?
 
Hey all,
Danny Potts and I were racing our E-max scooters at the Wanneroo Kart track on Sunday. They are running 16s3p A123 packs (built by Cell_Man back in 2010) and the controllers are dialled up for max take off power. Unfortunately we top out at 65 km/h, and only more volts would cure that. I think the Sevcons are limited to 63 V so perhaps 15s LiPo would work :D. Danny had about 10 psi more tyre pressure than me - we were mixing it up to see what worked and what didn't.
[youtube]ER76qsCFSbk[/youtube]
Shit-ton of fun. I'm in his way for the first lap but he sneaks in after I run wide. What do you know - more pressure means you go faster :lol: He does 60 second laps of Barbs on his R6, which is pretty f'n quick. I might get him to pilot my race bike next year.
 
Great video, JonesCG :D were those 50CC gas bikes you were up against?

I think more voltage + field weakening is the best way to get more speed out of these, those sabvoton controllers have it http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=51485&hilit=prefect#p761726 , the 6KW one might work well, I'm hoping they will bring out some bigger ones in the near future. I need to sort my suspension out before I get more speed, tendency to skitter on corners!

I did ask a suspension expert about the rear shock, he said it was way to strong for the weight of the bike, but maybe all that weight in the hub motor means you have to compromise with a harder spring.
 
flexy said:
Hi Athlon,

Is that running at 48V with the original controller and what range do you get?

depends on driving style , anyway I did some times this road and arrived to Lugano with 35% battery left ( according to Elipowersolution BMS)
https://maps.google.com/maps?saddr=Milan,+Italy&daddr=lugano&hl=en&ll=45.825211,9.09977&spn=0.144025,0.33783&sll=45.809179,9.095306&sspn=0.144067,0.33783&geocode=FW6_tQId1CyMACnndRI_ScGGRzGNDnTGE83_PA%3BFfAAvgId-JmIACnxEUJq9y2ERzHg-KEuIQSM7w&dirflg=ht&mra=prv&t=m&z=12

of course I was very light on throttle because there are not recharge point in the middle so I have to reach destination

the scooter is a 120S , the controller is tuned for lead batteries , this mean that speed is limited to 70 Km/h , E-max 120L with lithium are limited to 80 Km/h
 
Jonescg,
I just caught the video. OMG, racing slow mopeds...sure you can do it and have fun, but it's like riding a fat girl. You don't go around telling people, and you don't make video evidence either. :lol:
 
John in CR said:
Jonescg,
I just caught the video. OMG, racing slow mopeds...sure you can do it and have fun, but it's like riding a fat girl. You don't go around telling people, and you don't make video evidence either. :lol:


LMAO! woooooot!
Nice!

Tommy L sends.....
mosh.gif
 
Hi,

sorry for cross-posting. I am attempting to disassemble my e-max 110S. All parts will be for sale. Here or eBay.

Does anyone know if I must take out all of the batteries before I can remove the controller?

On that note, does anyone have access to disassembly schematics? I am reading on http://www.vehiculeselectriques.fr and my French is not bad. But when I mix vehicle electrics and my 3rd language, it is difficult. Very difficult!
 
Hi,

Happy New Year everyone.

Can anyone advise on the most straightforward way to remove the controller from the e-max 110s? I have purchased offset screwdrivers but am still having difficulty getting at some of the screws. I have removed the black battery compartment cover in order to give me some more room.

Do I need to remove all of the batteries in order to remove the controller? Or how do you guys do it?

(I am stripping a 2008 hardly used e-max and have a for sale thread elsewhere :) )

Any help would be really appreciated.

Kind rgds
 
yokneamcity said:
What bolts exactly do you mean?
You can make a picture?

The 6 screws underneath the seat compartment and over the battery compartment. They hold the controller in place. 3 are easily accessible. 3 are not so easy. For me anyway.
 
yokneamcity said:
You can make a picture?

Not at the moment unfortunately. I am away from it for a few days.

I mean the only screws / bolts that hold the OEM controller in place. To unattach it, these 6 star screws / bolts must be released. Also of course the power cables held in by allen key / hex nuts (under the seat).

I mean from outside the bike. Right underneath, where the controller gets air-cooled.
 
Hello. I have a question guys. Did you know if the speedo can work on 84V?
Thanks
 
Ok, thanks. I had found something nice.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/161183957855?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

the same screen size.
 
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