Just got my ebike kit from yescomusa what battery?

Got the battery, LED display comes on but the throttle doesn't seem to be working. Brakes and PAS are both disconnected, the display shows the rear wheel speed when I spin the back wheel and the throttle is plugged in but doesn't work what can be the problem?
 
I've never seen the new kits with the display, but I think it has to be programmed for the proper mode of operation. Maybe you're in pas mode which isn't installed. Check out this video. It may be similar to what you have.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2qBredUxdQE
 
Got it working now I forgot to hook up the motor wires lol
 
The motor works but its dragging like crazy and makes the whole bike shake. I can pedal faster than the motor, I know its not the rear brakes because I disconnected them.
 
The wheel looks true, but the motor makes a chainsaw buzzing sound especially at low speeds it goes away after about 26kmh
 
Sounds like bad hall or phase connection.
 
Just got it fixed now, it was the hall connectors, the bike is a beast I'm passing cars and climbing hills like bat outta hell. One thing I haven't hooked up yet is the PAS and power brakes. What does the PAS do?
 
PAS is pedal assist.
http://electricbikereport.com/electric-bike-throttle-pedal-assist-pedelec/
 
BTW, what's the top speed of that BOH? With what V battery?
 
I have a 48v li-ion battery, 15AH 30A. On a flat im getting around 45kmh tucked in WOT, downhill is 56km+, uphills are around 32km+

I need better brakes, my front brakes are screeching
 
OK, that sounds about right for that voltage. Hooking up you brake handles and enabling regen braking braking would help a lot.
 
How would I go about enabling brake regen? Also my shifters are integrated with the brakes, would I need to get new shifters?
 
1609621_10201287200078113_205018221_n.jpg


Im also thinking about getting taller gearing because after about 30kmh, pedaling doesnt seem to do anything.

Will be picking up of these up

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Ibera-Bike-Triangle-Front-Frame-Tube-Bag-Large-Cycling-Black-NEW-IB-FB1-L-/00/s/MTYwMFgxNjAw/z/qRMAAMXQDK1Rr6wJ/$T2eC16d,!zQE9s3stYFqBRr6wIYCzQ~~60_57.JPG

And also new shifters.
 
Be very careful using significant regen without clamping torque arms or any TA. Even with clamping TA's give it time and the axle can/will fatigue and twist apart.

If you need improved braking performance, improve the brakes. I've never found regen to be worth the trouble required to implement properly.

Integrated shifters? Many of us never shift out of our tallest gear since the motor renders it somewhat obsolete. However, if you like to pedal, by all means use gearing.
 
I'd like to build a bike with the yescomusa kit - I've read elsewhere that the axle is exceptionally wide - 145mm or something (http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=49638).

Is that still the case? I'd rather not have to bend a frame to make it fit - and the kits' descriptions don't provide that measurement.

I also noticed you bought "Hua Tong 72V 40A controller" - didn't the controller that came with the kit work?

Which battery did you end up buying?
 
benend said:
I'd like to build a bike with the yescomusa kit - I've read elsewhere that the axle is exceptionally wide - 145mm or something (http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=49638).

This is the battery I used, 15mph range pretty much full throttle and plenty of steep hill climbs.

Is that still the case? I'd rather not have to bend a frame to make it fit - and the kits' descriptions don't provide that measurement.

I also noticed you bought "Hua Tong 72V 40A controller" - didn't the controller that came with the kit work?

Which battery did you end up buying?

The yescomusa is a great kit, 48-52kmh on a flat tucked in. Its more of a lightweight motorcycle than a bicycle.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/331037670108?nav=SEARCH&sbk=1
 
benend said:
I'd like to build a bike with the yescomusa kit - I've read elsewhere that the axle is exceptionally wide - 145mm or something (http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=49638).
Is that still the case? I'd rather not have to bend a frame to make it fit - and the kits' descriptions don't provide that measurement.
I also noticed you bought "Hua Tong 72V 40A controller" - didn't the controller that came with the kit work?
Which battery did you end up buying?
Not sure who this is addressed to, but I assume me, since I have a 72V 40A controller. The controller that comes with the kit works fine if you don't want to go over 63V. If you want to go higher than that, as I did, you'll need a new controller. I'm not sure of the motor fit of the newer model. It may be 135mm or it may be wider as default. But even the older models axle can be configured by the user to even less than 135mm if one knows what they are doing. There's about 30mm of spacer on the left side that can be shoertened considerably. I don't use it but the jam nut I used instead does make it a little wider since it will only screw on so far. This wasn't a big problem, but I recently ordered a 14x1.5mm die to lengthen the treads so it will slip on easy with the jam nut. I crushed the spacer a long time ago and threw it away. Could just get a shorter spacer but I like the jam nut approach. Can torque the hell out of the axle nut with it and it has never come lose. As it is, the old model is probably 140mm with a 6 speed freewheel. this may be a none issue with the newer model since it was redesigned and now comes with a 7spd freewheel and also a disc brake. the original poster can advise on that since he has the newer model.
 
So far the bike has been great, currently running 26x1.95 front and rear

B002DX1DWG


I was giving it throttle into a corner at about 20mph over a small puddle, the rear slid out and the bike wiggled like crazy before stabilizing, I thought I would have crashed for sure. Are there any benefits of running a wider tire? Like a 26x2.4 or should I stick with my current tires?

I am also thinking about upgrading from rim brakes to disc, my roxshox dart 3 supports it, I just need a wheel.

710udQxjNtL._SY679_.jpg
 
Widest tire that will clear your frame dropouts on motor wheel the better IMO. Heavy, unsprung weight needs all the help it can get and fat tires offer more air cushion.

Lucky you can do a front disc brake conversion easy enough. You won't regret it....
 
Wider tires and wider rims will transform the stability of the bike. Cyclops on 39mm rims give a great ride. I'm curious if the wheel came with rim tape? The old kits didn't, which was really stupid for such a cheap item.
 
evolutiongts said:
So far the bike has been great, currently running 26x1.95 front and rear
I was giving it throttle into a corner at about 20mph over a small puddle, the rear slid out and the bike wiggled like crazy before stabilizing, I thought I would have crashed for sure. Are there any benefits of running a wider tire? Like a 26x2.4 or should I stick with my current tires?
I am also thinking about upgrading from rim brakes to disc, my roxshox dart 3 supports it, I just need a wheel.
"Are there any benefits of running a wider tire? Like a 26x2.4 or should I stick with my current tires?"
I ran a 26X1.75/1.95-559 Class Rim (Traditional Designation 26X1.00-2.125) with Schwalbe Fat Franks 26X2.35 .
The ride was cushy nice, but I had to check the air PSI a lot because I was pushing the rims beyond their designated tire width.
I never really trusted the fat tire on that skinny rim at speeds above 25mph. They felt sidewall ... squishy and I constantly was concerned with popping the tire off the rim, or oddly, the valve stems always seemed to have trouble seating in their holes.

Conclusion : Fat tires need a wider rim made for fat tires. Especially at higher speeds. Then with fat tires, there is a fork and brake caliper(s) (or disk) fitting to check.
 
FeralDog said:
Conclusion : Fat tires need a wider rim made for fat tires. Especially at higher speeds. Then with fat tires, there is a fork and brake caliper(s) (or disk) fitting to check.
I'll second that. Going from 24mm ID rims to 32mm ID rims made a huge difference in the stability of the bike. Only wish I hadn't waited 2 years before doing it. These are the rims I'm using.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/posting.php?mode=quote&f=3&p=842602
Alex DX32's are similar.
 
I will be getting a Alex DH24 rim for the front and running the cylops in the rear when the tire starts wearing out. Is anyone running a narrower tire in the front and a wider rear? I noticed motorcycles usually have smaller front tire and a larger wide tire.
 
wesnewell said:
FeralDog said:
Conclusion : Fat tires need a wider rim made for fat tires. Especially at higher speeds. Then with fat tires, there is a fork and brake caliper(s) (or disk) fitting to check.
I'll second that. Going from 24mm ID rims to 32mm ID rims made a huge difference in the stability of the bike. Only wish I hadn't waited 2 years before doing it. These are the rims I'm using.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/posting.php?mode=quote&f=3&p=842602
Alex DX32's are similar.

Did you use DX32 for the front only or both front and rear?
 
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