Just got my ebike kit from yescomusa what battery?

Would you guys recommend this wheel for the front? It has a disk compatible hub and I will need a new front wheel for disc conversion.

http://www.amazon.com/XLC-SRAM-406-Front-Wheel/dp/B006VEQ1S4
 
I use Weinmann DH39's on both front and rear with Cyclops 2.4" tires. I bought 2 front wheels for ~$40 each and laced the rim from one onto my motor. Could not find the bare rims. And the only ones I can find now are almost double in price.
 
evolutiongts said:
Would you guys recommend this wheel for the front? It has a disk compatible hub and I will need a new front wheel for disc conversion.
http://www.amazon.com/XLC-SRAM-406-Front-Wheel/dp/B006VEQ1S4
Way too narrow for a wide tire. It's made for a 1.75" tire. That's the problem. It's really hard to find wide rims.
This will work good for good for Cyclops and hookworm tires.
http://store.qbike.com/weinmann-rim-alloy-26x2-35-3-0-dhl42-36h-sil-12.html
 
Would this rim work? Would the rear rim that comes with the yescomusa kit accept a 2.4 inch tire?

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/spo/4275385772.html
 
evolutiongts said:
Would this rim work? Would the rear rim that comes with the yescomusa kit accept a 2.4 inch tire?

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/spo/4275385772.html

That wheel is designed to work with a 20mm through-axle fork. If you don't already have disc brakes, you don't have a through-axle fork.

Just because your new hub motor can accept a disc rotor doesn't mean you have to use a disc brake. Properly adjusted linear-pull brakes with decent pads easily outperform any disc brake up to about four times the price.

While it's best to use a rim that's more than half as wide as the tire mounted on it, it's not a strict requirement. You can use a 2.4" tire on a .75" wide rim; you'll just have to keep it inflated rather hard to keep it stable. That undermines one of the best benefits of a big fat tire-- the ability to use low pressure and get a cushy ride without incurring lots of rolling resistance or risking pinch flats.
 
Thanks for the advice I definitely want to run a wider tire and rim. The rim brakes I currently have does the job. With the 1.95 tires I'm getting blown around a lot by the wind and its unstable especially at speeds over 30mph.
 
evolutiongts said:
With the 1.95 tires I'm getting blown around a lot by the wind and its unstable especially at speeds over 30mph.

It sounds like there may be more to your problem than tires. Poor frame alignment, poor weight distribution, a bent fork, or compromised riding position can all contribute to iffy handing.

For steadier steering at speed, having more weight in the front rim and tire will enhance gyroscopic stability. Oftentimes, all that's needed to make a bike ride no-handed that won't do it otherwise is to mount a heavier tire.

If a bigger, heavier tire alone doesn't give you the change you want, try using a thorn-resistant tube. Those add weight at the perimeter of the wheel without incurring too much of a ride quality penalty.

One wide and heavy rim that doesn't cost very much is the Weinmann DHL42 (which is true to its name at 42mm wide). The only version I can find is drilled for 12ga spokes, but you could also use 14ga spokes with M4 washers under the nipple heads.
 
The bike handles great actually, but I was riding against heavy winds at 30mph, even when tucked in Im blown around alot. The front is fairy light, the tire and rim currently weigh very little.
 
I just recieved my disc caliper and was wonder if either of these are good wheels.

http://www.amazon.com/Avenir-Joytec-Weinmann-Front-26-Inch/product-reviews/B003RLDSX0/ref=cm_cr_pr_btm_link_next_2?ie=UTF8&pageNumber=2&showViewpoints=0&sortBy=bySubmissionDateDescending

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv/bik/4280571161.html
 
Neither of those are well suited for a wide tire. You want a 32mm ID rim minimum imo for any tire over 2.125". I don't know where you will find complete wheels for disc brakes with wider rims. You may have to build them yourself by buying the hubs, spokes and rims. In the end it will be worth it.
 
What about one of these?

http://custommotoredbicycles.com/sta-tru_heavy_duty_bicycle_wheels_26_inch_x_2125_assembled_in_usa_better_chrome
 
The headtube on my aluminium frame is starting to crack, I will be switching to a different frame, steel this time.
 
I really want this Merida Mission frame but I can't find it anywhere!

e5cb675577c0197c6f178ec03244a6e40ec0a49d_o.jpg
 
wesnewell said:
Neither of those are well suited for a wide tire. You want a 32mm ID rim minimum imo for any tire over 2.125". I don't know where you will find complete wheels for disc brakes with wider rims. You may have to build them yourself by buying the hubs, spokes and rims. In the end it will be worth it.

If you had told anybody that in the early 1990s (the period when 2.5-2.6" tires showed up), they would have laughed at you. There were no rims more than 32mm outside width, let alone inside width, and most of those were singlewalled cruiser crap.

2.125" tires were first implemented on "heavyweights"-- balloon tire cruisers that predated mountain bikes by many decades. Very few of those bikes had rims as wide as 32mm inside. And those cruiser rims looked silly wide to mountain bikers after about 1988, until the downhill fad broke through to the mainstream.

We put 2.1", 2.2", 2.3", and 2.5" tires on the 13-20mm inside width rims we had available, and they worked. The tradeoff was we could not run them at the very low pressures they really excel for, or we'd risk rolling them off the rim in hard turns. But one advantage was that compared to being mounted on a wide rim, they had a cushier ride at the same pressure.

Here's a picture of an ultra-premium MTB from 1990, sporting a 2.5" tire. Note the width of the rim on this cost-no-object bike:
4037091.jpg


My 29er had a 60mm tire on a 19mm (inside) front rim for years, and it worked fine that way. I'm happier with the roughly 32mm (inside) rim it has now, because I can use pressure as low as 18psi without issues.
 
I didn't say you couldn't put them on a narrower rim. I have too. They just perform so much better on a wider rim. It's also easier to work with changing the tube. So much so, I'd never use another narrow rim for any tire over 2.0"
 
wesnewell said:
I didn't say you couldn't put them on a narrower rim. I have too. They just perform so much better on a wider rim. It's also easier to work with changing the tube. So much so, I'd never use another narrow rim for any tire over 2.0"

Well, I did point out one respect in which the performance is better with a narrow rim-- better cushioning at a given pressure. Meaning better cushioning at a given amount of rolling resistance.

I just did a tire swap a couple days ago on a bike with 100mm wide rims (Sun Spider AT with Weinmann DHL100 rims). It was unnecessarily difficult because the tire wanted to skew diagonally across the wide rim, making it too tight to pry on and off. That was the first time I had encountered such a problem, but it demonstrates that too much can indeed be too much.
 
I am currently looking to upgrade my kit, the yescomusa kit is okay while offroading but I was wondering if I should go mid drive instead? Or should i upgrade the hub motor for more speed? I have a v48 Li-ion battery, 30A with 40A burst.
 
What kind of speed are you looking for? The yescomusa motor can go pretty fast with the right controller and battery pack. Well over 40 mph is not hard to do. I normally wouldn't recommend an extremely fast wind motor unless you live where everything is flat, like Florida, but you can get 700rpm@48V kits.
 
40mph would be great currently I am topping out at 32mph.

Would this 1500w controller increase the performance of my kit?
http://m.ebay.com/itm/360842204873?nav=SEARCH&sbk=1
 
If you want more speed, you have to increase voltage. Going to a 72V battery pack and a 72V controller would do that. Going 40mph is going to get you noticed by the cops.
 
Is there anyway to increase torque or off the line acceleration and mid range. I'm not looking for too speed so much as more torque.
 
Also I'm planning on getting on lipos for a spare pack. Wes I know you recommended a 12s pack but I want to stay with the stock controller so what is the limit the stock controller can support 63v? Can it take a 14s lipo pack or 15s?
 
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__21374__ZIPPY_Compact_5000mAh_7S_25C_Lipo_Pack.html

Can i get 4 of these 7s 5ah wire them together and call it a day?
 
evolutiongts said:
Is there anyway to increase torque or off the line acceleration and mid range. I'm not looking for too speed so much as more torque.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=31643
I'd limit the mod to no more than 50% of the shunt. 50% would make max amps ~45A
 
Stock controller will take up to 15s rc lipo (63V) max. The size you choose depends on how you want to charge. I do not recommend the 7s packs from HK because they have 2 balance plugs, a 4s and a 3s. You can do the same by taping a 4s and 3s pack together cheaper. Also makes replacement cheaper if you ever get a bad cell. If you go to 15s, then 3 5s packs makes the most sense to me, but you can mix any combo you want to get to what you want. The only difference will be how you charge them.
 
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