
...as you can see, the BMSs in question are the "Li-Ion" type: http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route= ... &order=ASC
Agreed about the soft start... The price of reliability. Was getting tired of the high temperature cutout in July 15 miles from home...Ypedal wrote:Going much over 12s is really not worth it unless you gut the stock controller, i really hate that soft start... being used to my 100v bikes lol..
I was thinking of getting some custom in-frame batteries made from cell man (em3ev.com). If we order soon while its still winter and hes not too busy he may be interested. I could do all the correspondence with cell man to save him time from having to respond to multiple people. At the end we would pay for our batteries individually.Murph wrote:I have a 2010 A2B and am looking to upgrade the motor, controller, and battery. I like the crystalyte HS35 kit from ebikes.ca Where would I get an upgraded battery for this kit that could replace the stock frame battery?
Looks like cracked swingarms are a common thing with the early Metros. Mine snapped almost completely off during a routine commute two days ago. Was lucky to be able to bring it to a stop. The bike is a 2010 model, second-hand, so not covered by the warranty.joepah wrote:Thanks for the heads up, DeepFraught...I checked the drain hole and bulkhead fitting for the wiring and didn't notice any cracks... Unless the paint is removed you really can't tell unless its pretty baddeepfraught wrote:Check your frame from underside and thoroughly cleaned before dropping big $$$ into new batteries.
My frame with cracks from the drain and cable holes finally let go, spread to swingarm weld and snapped the banana swinger like... A banana. Locked rear wheel on rear battery pack was good because it didn't have leverage to snap clean through, so no damage to the wiring.
I spoke to seller on eBay with frame for sale, no swinger, as it snapped at the dropouts.
When I got this 3rd frame/bike it was cheap and I had a feeling the decent size guy had carried people on the back at times.
I continued riding it regardless dropping off curbs (the final shock that snapped the swingarm) but it wasn't the big cracks I was monitoring that got me.
There are some odd cast lines in the fork that made me nervous, but same across 3 bikes so I was comfortable it was not a crack.
It is all repairable, but I have a preference for steel for futureI have one dead controller motor and one dead frame so still serviceable fleet for a while.
My swingarm failed at the weld about 2 years ago, and it was replaced under warranty.. Since I probably have more miles on my Metro than most people, 8000 miles, I really don't know where the next failure will be... Been pretty good to me overall...
Looks like yours failed in the HAZ and not the weld itself.. Sorry to see that. The FL distributor told me at the time in 2011 mine was the 2nd swingarm failure... Now the hours are accumulating and the failure are ramping up.commuter5 wrote:joepah wrote:deepfraught wrote:Check your frame from underside and thoroughly cleaned before dropping big $$$ into new batteries.
Looks like cracked swingarms are a common thing with the early Metros. Mine snapped almost completely off during a routine commute two days ago. Was lucky to be able to bring it to a stop. The bike is a 2010 model, second-hand, so not covered by the warranty.
Rider weight = 80kg+5kg satchel. No extra loading apart from rear battery.Ypedal wrote:Re: A2B Metro - www.ultramotor.com - Video Page4
by Ypedal » Tue Feb 11, 2014 7:39 pm
Yikes !!
rider weight ?
It seems plausible since they crack right next to the welds... like the welding caused the surrounding AL to become too brittle or soft(whichever way it goes)?The Stig wrote:Do you think they missed the step of heat treating the swing arms parts after welding them together??